firstwagon

Actually it's a good idea to always use anti-seize, even on cast iron heads. Nothing worse then having one stuck, hard to reach plug ruining your afternoon. Quickly turns an easy 15 minute job into an hour and half of cursing and scraped knuckles

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Sure that sounds goods but let's see you do that towing a boat

You have to match the sidewall size so you don't change the overall diameter of the tire (much). Here's a handy calculator to figure out what size tire to use.... http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

This review has the sedan at 10 seconds... http://www.legacycentral.org/articles/lsawd/lsawd_5.htm Here we have 9.68 with a 5 speed... http://www.legacycentral.org/articles/mt_ls/ls_4.htm the rest of the reviews seem to be about turbos.... http://www.legacycentral.org/reviews.htm I'd guess you could knock a 1/10th or 2 for the heavier wagon

That's "CommandTrac", my brothers YJ has that too. ( Actually it did until he built a mechanical cable release to replace it, the vac motor is very durable). Some base Grand Cherokees came with this system but not many. Ours has "SelecTrac". Both axle shafts spin all the time as does the front drive shaft. It's only disconnects at the transfer case. It also has a lockable centre diff that allows full time 4 wheel drive which the base system doesn't have.

What brand is stock for Subaru? There are no Subaru dealers near me and I don't want to go for a 1 hour drive to get a set of plugs.

I ran my 91 Legacy in Fwd for a week and like the others, my mileage was exactly the same (it's very consistent). What I find odd is when I drive my Grand Cherokee in 2 wheel drive instead of full time 4 wheel drive, it gets significantly better mileage. All the parts on the Grand are still spinning as well, it only disconnects at the transfer case not the hubs. The only reason I can think of is the Subaru is only sending 10% to the rear wheel most of the time. Thus it's already as lightly loaded as you're going to get in normal driving.

Does your back seat have the holes in the top for headrests? I thought they were standard on all wagons (my 91 LS wagon has rear seat headrests). If they are just missing then check the local wrecking yards. Should be easy to find. As for leather, I have never seen a 1st gen Legacy with leather, it's possible though. I never liked leather when I lived in Ontario. Too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter. Just personal preference though. I wonder if the seats for a newer Legacy would fit?

Here's a site about the SVX I found interesting... http://smallcar.com/svx/index.htm

Does the 05 have an adaptive transmission? By that I mean one that adjusts it's shift patterns based on the drivers style. If you drive with a heavy foot, it will down shift earlier and up shift later. If you drive like a little old lady, it will do the opposite. If so then I have heard complaints about other cars (not Subarus) that this can be quite annoying in normal driving. Fuel economy concerns by the manufactor cause them to program it so that it shifts to little old lady mode far too quickly. Perhaps there is an aftermarket chip that addresses this.

It is an impressive bit of work he's doing but if I were to do it, I would choose the 2.0 turbo from the WRX. It would be smaller and lighter then the 3.3 and turbos are idealy suited to high altitudes. I'm amazed people still use the Lycomings and Continentals. Even when I learned to fly in the late 70's, the were considered old. Now they are antiques ( akin to a VW beetle motor.)

One of the things I love about Subarus is how many people still buy them with 5 speeds. Of the half dozen people I know that bought a new Honda in the past year, not one bought a manual. 3 of the 4 new subaru owners that I know got a 5 speed manual. It just makes me smile Welcome

I'm 6'2", 190 lbs and I think Subarus seats are great. I've been in several Subarus including long trips in my 91 Legacy and my sisters 05 Forester and never had a problem. Nipper's right though, the only way to know for sure is to drive one for as long as possible. Everyone is a different shape.

If the computer controls the boost on the Skyline then that's quite possible. I remember guys getting 400 hp from the 2.0 Litre turbo in the Talon 10 years ago by cranking up the boost. The Skyline has a larger (and likely stronger ) engine. If you increase the boost and can get high enough octane fuel, then 450 should be doable at least for a while.

JDM's are becoming a big market here in Vancouver, BC. There are several dealers that specialize in importing mint low mileage cars that would otherwise be scrapped. i.e. http://www.buysell.com/StaticPage/DealerShowrooms.aspx?spg_id=309&linkID=BC2533075 There a couple in my parking lot at work (a Skyline and a TD TLC). I guess it's good for Japan's economy (and an interesting source of cars and parts for us) but I think it's a very wasteful system.

I feel that anything older then 91 is old and anything newer is just rich people showing off ;) It's a narrow window but when you got it, you've got it. :)

I was told it was a 15 amp. I have never seen it listed officially anywhere though.

I've never been impressed with the crude, over priced code readers that I've seen. Does anyone know a source for a cable and software so you can read everything properly on a laptop?

It would be a good price in my part of Canada (BC) even with the mileage... http://www.buysell.com/root/detail/British%20Columbia/1999_Import_Cars/2116/47900028/1999_SUBARU_LEGACY_BRIGHTON_awd_auto.aspx http://www.buysell.com/root/detail/British%20Columbia/1998_Import_Cars/2118/48772887/1998_SUBARU_LEGACY_BRIGHTON_WAGON_4X4.aspx http://www.buysell.com/root/detail/British%20Columbia/1995_Import_Cars/2124/49321419/1995_SUBARU_LEGACY_BRIGHTON_awd_5_spd.aspx

While I don't think it could damage the rest of the air suspension system, it could damage your car. If by non functional you mean completely deflated then your car is riding on the bump stops. There is no springs to absorb impacts and so the force will be transfered directly to the mounting point for the rear struts. Not good. Mine got like that on the front when I got a rip in one of the bags. As the rip got worse, the compressor couldn't keep up and the front end of the car would settle right down on the stops. Handling was great (no lean) but the ride was brutal. New or used, I recomend changing them out before you drive it much more. The repair bill will be much bigger if you punch a strut through the mount.

When I bought my 91 Legacy wgn last year, one of the front air struts was leaking. I replaced both the fronts with used air struts from a local wrecker that deals with Subarus and they have been fine since. It was my cheapest option at the time. They had a waiting list for complete used strut/spring suspensions and they wanted way too much for them anyhow ($800 Cdn, $650 US). I looked into new struts but the only place I could get them was Subaru and they wanted $569 Cdn PER STRUT! ( about $460 US at the time). I would have been happy to pay $150 each for new ones as that's what I ended up paying for used. The trouble with replacing only some of them is there other parts to go bad. Now I have a leak somewhere in the rear system that I can't find. As soon as I can scrape up the money I plan to replace everything this time rather then continuely fixing the air suspension bit by bit. By the time I buy 4 struts, 4 springs, 4 strut mounts and the bits and pieces, I expect it to cost close to $1000 Cdn ($900 US ) if I do the work myself.

By my understanding, the 90 and 91 have tampered rear springs that are don't match the 92, 93 and 94 strut mounts. However if you are swapping everything from a donor car then it doesn't matter. Sound about right?

That is interesting news. My guage has always been out by a third. It will be below empty and I'll still have 20 + litres left. I'll try it this weekend.

My old Buick SkyHawk also had the same warning and it's 2wd. It's the construction of the doughnut tire.