Raynman1989

That's with it sitting on the ground. It's got kings lowered springs and it's 1996 liberty wagon. It doesn't look lowered because of the angle I took the pic on.

She's got lowered springs fitted.

It would seem so but these should work since whiteline make this bar and links for this car. Seems they've got their measurements wrong?

They're brand new

Yeah I was thinking of doing that but it wouldn't totally fix the issue

I just fitted a 22mm whiteline front Sway bar and endlinks and to my untrained eye the different angle between the link and bar looks terrible (it's the same on both sides). The car also has lowering springs which of course make the angle worse. Is it going to be an issue? Surely it will wear the bushes out considerably faster at the very least?

The motors done 220,000ks and had a full service history (headgaskets hadn't been replaced in that time) up until about 20,000ks before I got hold of it. I took the previous engine out due to headgasket issues. Guess I may as well do the headgaskets with the symptoms it's got and considering I've got headgaskets for it and need to replace the clutch while it's out. Tbh I've never really spent too much time trying to "burp the coolant system besides running the engine with the cap off, will air in the system stop circulation?

Yeah I mean distance it's only about half a tooth away from the mark (the mark lands between 2 teeth). Moving it would make it an equal distance past the tooth. Man I've really been hoping it's not a headgasket. Only just put this engine in and done under 10,000ks on it but everything seems to be pointing at a headgasket failure

I've been having some issues with my ej, overheating and high fuel usage. I ook the timing cover off to check the water pump and noticed the timing seems to be off by about 1 tooth. If I line up one cam and the crank with their marks then the remaining cam doesn't line up but moving the cam 1 tooth causes it to move past the mark and still not line up. The timing belt shouldn't be stretched (if they even stretch) since it's only done about 10,000ks. Should I just move the belt that one extra tooth and see if it changes anything?

Man I sure hope it's not the headgasket as the motor only just went in to replace a motor with leaky headgaskets but I haven't been contemplating taking the motor out to replace the clutch so that will be a good time to do the headgaskets. Will a compressions test pick up on a leaky headgasket? Surely by now all the air would be out of the cooling system? Or can air work it's way in at any time? Phase 1 (1989) ej22e? Well tbh I've only had a block temp gauge to go off but I can certainly tell when an engine is running hotter besides the block temp reading considerable higher, a large amount of coolant overflowing from the radiator and the smell of a cooking motor

Having trouble keeping my ej22 cool in my l series. I've fitted an aluminium (cheap ebay one) ej radiator and have both thermo fans hooked up together. It runs fine on the highway and in cooler weather but when the ambient temperature starts getting over 20⁰C the temperature will start climbing, especially on the beach and in stop start traffic. There is a slight coolant leak that I can't find, used maybe 1 litre on a recent 700km trip. Could that cause overheating?

Just curious If there were different driveshafts for the l series? The reason I ask is I bought some kelpro cv boots for a set of repco front driveshafts I purchased not too long ago and the boots are about 10mm too small in diameter on the large end for the cv cups. This caused me to check the diameter of the old driveshafts I've had laying around and they are smaller (the correct size for the kelpro boots I bought). I thought maybe repco just decided to make them bigger but I went back instore and the shafts they have are of the smaller size. So was there a particular model that for some reason had heavier duty driveshafts and I've somehow ended up with them? I'd like to find out so I can try and possibly get some kelpro boots to suit instead of the crappy universal ones I'll have to use for now. The car is a 5spd 89 touring wagon.

Nah i definitely made it more complicated than need be haha. Yeah when it'd "not working" in the car it clicking ever time throwing the gear out but only spins maybe every 10 key turn. I have taken the whole thing apart and cleaned everything including the brushes and armature and whatever else is in there but maybe the brushes do need replacing, they look fine although obviously worn.

Sorry if I didn't explain it very clearly, I'll break it down as best I can. Starter was working intermittently, most of the time it was just clicking. Tested it out if the car and it was the same. Took the whole starter motor apart, cleaned every contact surface and replaced the solenoid plunger and contacts with new ones. Still doesn't work when fitted to the car but now works fine when tested on the bench (gear is thrown out and motor spins). Test fitted a totally different starter motor from a newer vehicle and it works 100%.

It's not the original unit but it is a "fuji heavy industries" unit. Weirdly enough I've got the starter to work 100% while out of the car but when I fit it to the car it still does the same thing, just clicks. The other starter motor i have that fits but isn't the right one for the car works fine though! I'm confused even more now. Could it be the ignition relay isn't supplying enough amps and the newer starter requires less therefore it works?