scoobydube

Although I recently had similar symptoms, I finally read the trouble code and got 14. Copilot told me that my #1 cylinder injector was malfunctioning. Upon inspection, there was lots of white corrosion inside of the connector. Scratching as much of that corrosion off, not only made the engine run normal again, but it meant that I did not have to go shopping for another car. Win-Win.

An EGR red light on your dash would indicate that either your EGR valve has issues or your EGR solenoid has issues. A faulty EGR setup can cause the problems that you describe, according to the Subaru manual and CoPilot.

Your descriptions sounds like a problem I had when the Exhaust Gas Temperature sensor in the exhaust needed replacing. $25 You also might want to change out all of the relay switches under the dash over your left knee cap. Make sure all the breather hoses are soft and get a good seal, as the rock hard breather hoses on top of the engine no longer seal. See my thread on Rock Hard Breather Hoses. Make sure that the timing advance vacuum on the distributor still holds a vacuum when you suck on the inlet. Take apart the distributor if it is not an electronic distributor, and make sure all of the swing weights are not worn on their pivot, have grease on them and they swing properly. Make sure the distributor cap is not cracked. Verify that the engine problems do not occur only when you are running accessories. If accessories cause the engine problems then you need to change out your engine ground at it's left front connection to the frame, and also look for rock hard electrical wires running from your + positive battery terminal to the bottom side of the fusible link box as it loses it's ability to carry current.

The engine develops more power and responds quicker as a result of improving the suction in this breather system, for some odd reason.

Better to figure out why it does not work right, instead getting some vague description of a problem from trouble codes. What are the symptoms? For instance, my car suddenly decided not to maintain it's idle, even when giving it enough gas. Then it would suddenly run right for a mile, but then do the same thing later. I first replaced the alternator since I keep a spare. No change. Then I swapped out the two engine relay switches. No change. So that narrowed it down to the distributor for me. So I thought that the distributor brains were going out. I pulled the distributor and was ready to swap out the brains with a backup distributor with the wrong gearing, and by chance I sucked on the timing advance diaphragm inlet. Vella! It would not hold a vacuum. So, I swapped out the timing advance diaphragm and it worked perfectly again. Obviously, I saved myself from have an actual Subaru dealer look at it, where they either would not likely be able to figure it out, or they would have fixed it, charged my a small fortune in order to get my car back, and sabotaged it so that I would have to bring it back in 30 days. Standard Subaru mechanic scam.

Your market is teenagers and early 20's, that have no money. They would not be leaving it as is, but instead would be jacking it up, putting new larger wheels on it and turning it into a ditch banger. So the top value would probably be no more than $1500. Unless it is a show car. Since you did not mention the mileage, I assume that it is over 250,000. If it is the original engine, then cut that price in half.

The distributors don't last forever. Plus, you need to take them apart and make sure that all the moving parts have grease and swing properly. I have gone through one distributor every 100,000 miles or less. The little black plastic electronic thing a ma jig in the center goes bad, then there is no spark to the plugs. As far as electricity to the injectors, that could be the black wire in the fusible links, that runs the entire engine. Another culprit could be the capacitor that wires into the coil, that will cause the engine to not start. Obviously, you have to have installed the timing belts exactly right, and you need prior experience to do that. Coils also go bad. Then there is the electrical connectors of the hot wire coming off of the alternator. That wire with the looped end connector loses it's conductivity due to overheating, so you have to cut back the lead and reinstall a new loop end to reattach to the alternator. Ground wires also lose their ability to conduct electricity at the body end of the wire. If they are stiff, they are bad. If before you took everything apart, and tried to run the electric windows at the same time the engine was running, but that caused the engine to miss or drop in rpm, then the ground wire is bad. I use two ground wires to be safe. There are two out of the six rectifiers under the dash over your left knee, that will cause the engine to not run. You can look for a burned one or replace all of them. Don't buy them from Subaru, because they will sell you the same rectifier that you can buy on the internet for$10, but for $50.

You can remove the auxiliary fan to improve the air flow around the engine, and install a lower temperature thermostat that opens up sooner. You can also drill some holes in your thermostat to increase the coolant flow and lower the engine temperatures that way. In the winter, you would want to put the standard thermostat back in. Few air conditioners still work.

Tell us what is at the other end of the wiring and we well tell you what is bad. I have six relay switches under my 86 turbo dash. Since they were getting real hot and putting of nauseating fumes, I relocated them to ammo cans placed behind the front seats. Two relay switches keep my engine running. Two relay switches keep the head lights and digital dash running. One relay switch keeps the fan running and one relay switch probably goes to the rear window defroster, which I removed the fuses for. The original relay switches are mostly bad by now. Do not buy new relay switches from Subaru, because you can buy the same ones off of Ebay for 1/4 the cost that the Subaru dealer is going to hose you for. When your engine suddenly stops running, the cause is usually either relays switches, the black fusible link, the left side timing belt broken, a bad coil, the condenser next to the coil, or a bad distributor. Carry spares where possible. You have to take your distributor apart periodically and make sure that the swing weights and all other moveable parts are swinging and rolling freely and have light weight lithium grease. I have never had an ECU go out in 530,000 plus miles.

My 86 Turbo has no wiring to the engine mounted radiator fan. The other auxiliary fan that blocks air flowing through the radiator and blocks cooling air to the turbo area, has wiring. But I took it completely out with no over heating problems whatsoever. I even went back to a single core radiator and have no problems. Take it out.

My first fuel pump broke down at 150,000 miles. My second fuel pump is still going strong at 380,000 miles but I carry a backup. In my experience, when the engine ground wire from the left cam cover by the battery, to the ground on the frame, becomes rock hard at the connection to the frame at 250,000 miles, multiple accessories will cause the engine to run rough. So you may have a bad ground wire. I run two ground wires at the same location because I am so paranoid of it happening again and at the worst possible location. Used fuel pumps from U-pull-it are fine if the car was not sitting for years before they sold it off to the yard. And they are cheap. As are the ground wires.

I doubt that you can buy the OEM breather hoses from Subaru anymore. The double curve hoses are particularly hard to replace by shopping on line because the offset of the two ends is unique to the car, and unlikely to be made by Gates and others. So I improvised for a fraction of the retail prices that I see listed on Ebay, by using 3/4" diameter high temp silicone coolant hose in the multilayer type, brass barbed elbows and then enough 7/8" clamps to make those single and double curves. Once the original hoses crack, then your engine is not going to run well. So I wanted to replace with the new and pliable hoses to head off that potential breakdown.

Coolant tanks don't shoot out coolant unless you have cracked heads, in my experience with a turbo.

You must have full time AWD.

That pulley can be slide out on the center shaft, by using a hammer and a holding device for the pulley, so that you pound on the center shaft protrusion and push the water pump away from the front of the pulley. Also there are water pumps for pulleys with two different heights. The shorter one is for the GL. The taller one is for the GL10.