scoobydube

You can buy whatever bolt you want off of EBAY. Be sure and get grade 10.9 high strength bolts. The original OEM bolts are most likely OK so you don't need to get paranoid about replacing them. Just do not over torque them. Which is 47 ft lbs to 55 ft lbs. Fel pro gaskets go longest, and only blow out when the bolts loosen up due to water intrusion. About 100 ft lbs will break the bolt off at the face of the block.

A faulty vacuum pump in the distributor causes all kinds of problems. So does a faulty O2 sensor on the exhaust. My idle adjustment screw is on the top of the intake manifold. You would back it out to get leaner and higher idle rpm. As you back it out, the rpm will stop getting higher. Then you stop and turn it back in 1/4 turn. The distributors need to be rebuilt as the ball bearings inside tend to wear grooves into the two flat plates that they ride between in my 86. The swing weights in the guts of the distributor can get funky and bind up. Don't expect a smooth operating engine if you have never checked your distributor for wear.

Sweet ride.

the bolts on the front and back in the top row, can get water intrusions that both rusts the bolt and causes them to back out. If you caulk the holes above those holes, the problem goes away.

Those are the wrong bolts. The OEM are M12 x 1.25 and extend about an inch into the block. Grade 10.9. Yes you can break them off at the block if you apply more than the prescribed torque. And the broken tip takes a couple of hours to remove. You reuse the old washers.

Fouling after driving down the hill with clutch engaged, would likely be the pistons sucking oil past the rings into the combustion chamber. The dirty plug would confirm that. There is an mixture adjustment screw on the top of my intake manifold. You lean it out by unscrewing it and getting the highest idle rpm. You stop unscrewing it just as the maximum rpm is reached.

The original bolts are so soft that they will break off with very little tightening. There is no idiots guide that says one must overtorque high strenth bolts. Given the limited thickness of the gasket, I would think that it would be quite impossible to warp that small of an oil pan, unless you are not into equal tightening on all sides. Removing the oil pan while the engine is in place, I believe it impossible. Beside accessing the rear bolt being quite difficult, the oil pan needs to slide out towards the rear due to the sloped oil intake tube below the engine. So snugging up new bolts appears to be the only viable option, unless you want to pull the engine.

Go to Ebay and buy longer and also high strength bolts. What you have in their now are the soft M6-1.0 x 13 mm long bolts. If you tighten them, they snap off. Go with the 10.9 high strength grade flare head bolts in the 16 mm length and tighten them up until you can't tighten them anymore. This will really cut back on the oil pan leaks. At the back of the oil pan, you can do some light grinding of the cross frame in order to get a 1/4" socket set in there with some swivel end attachments. It requires a 10 mm end socket and you would want the 1/4" version of that.

My money is on the bearings on the inside of the engine, at both crankshaft, and piston rods, are rusted up so that you would have to tear the crankcase completely apart and replace them. Then the steel piston rings are probably also rusted in place and did not help the cylinder walls any. Long story short, you are wasting your time with an engine that has water condensing inside the crankcase, due to the changes in weather, regardless of whether it was under a hood or not.

The cylinder head compression tell you whether you need new velpro gaskets. Less than 140 psi and you should replace. Wheel bearings can be stuffed to the max with synthetic grease every time you replace a cv joint and you will go forever on them. The water pump has a special height to the pulley so pay attention to that. You have periodically make sure the timing belts are tight by loosening the two bolts for each and allowing the springs to tighten up the belt. Do it every 5000 miles. The water pump has a hole in the top and a hole in the bottom. Plug the top hole up with a gasket maker otherwise dirt will get to the bearings and you will be back to replacing it every 15,000 to 25,000 miles, instead of 40,000 or more. Rebuilt CV axles last 200,000 miles from O'Reillys. Don't waste your rebooting them because they are going to start clicking soon thereafter. Nowadays, the only suppliers for cables is the aftermarket parts from your favorite parts store. Subaru stopped making them. U-pull-it has lots of parts, when you can find the cars there. But Facebook is your best place to find a car that you can get parts off of.

You may be able to buy the 88 wiring with the used 88 distributor from the source that I mentioned. One additional electrical issue that I have on my 86, is the hot wire from the alternator, gets hot, gets brittle and breaks within about 6 inches of the alternator or at the alternator. Then the engine runs on the battery until the battery is dead. Then is won't crank the engine over and everything is as dead as a door nail. Also, both distributor cap bolts need to be down tight. There are issues with the diaphragm not allowed the forward screw, not able to be fully tightened.

It would be the 85 to 94 EA 82 engine series. I am assuming that nothing improved with the loyales as I was working on an 86 turbo. An additional note, I squirted as much lithium grease in each end of the cable as I could get, before installation. After installation, I noticed considerably less resistance in the operation of the clutch.

CLUTCH CABLES last about the life of 1 1/2 clutches, or about 150,000 miles. I am leaving a few tips here for your future search when you can't find a mechanic who can figure this one out. I came up with two tricks to help considerably in this nightmare of a project. The first trick is to fashion your own spring compressor out of rebar tie wire, going from one side at one end, to the opposite side at the opposite end, with a circular loop, and then do the mirror image for the other side of the spring. Set the spring in a vice with a 10mm socket over the rod end, in order to compress the spring to be as short as possible. You will have to remove the spring from the clutch lever arm in order to do this, and then reinstall the spring with the compressor still attached, before attempting final reassembly. The second trick is to fashion two 6 mm x 35 mm bolts with a filed down point on the end, to replace the two 6 mm x 30 mm bolts in place. The lower one of those bolts should be inserted in it's proper hole in the loose base retainer for the spring, before the spring is reinstalled between your loose clutch lever are and your loose base retainer for the spring. The reason for the spring compressor is make it possible to slip both the brake lever arm and the holed end of the base retainer, over the main lateral pivot bolt for both the clutch and the brake. The reason for the pointed end bolts is that you won't likely be able to use the existing bolts and get them to find the hole to which they are anchored in the anchor plate. So to help with terminology. From left to right, at the front of the clutch assembly, you have the spring assembly, the base retainer for the spring, the actual clutch cable Tee end with two holes, and then the anchor plate. The clutch lever arm has three attachments. One to the main lateral pivot bolt, one to the back end of the compressor spring, and one to the back end of the clutch cable. Subaru no longer makes these cables and there is only one supplier. Those clutch cables are quite stiff due to sitting around for 10 years. Which makes them difficult to work with. Although the Subaru manual says to remove the entire brake and clutch assembly from the firewall, I removed all 4 of those bolts and it would not budge. Furthermore, you are not going to get it very far from the fire wall with that assembly because the right end of it extends over the top of the steering column to the accelerator.

The trip computer beep also comes on when your power steering fluid is very low.

Stuff all the synthetic grease into the old bearings that you can. You might use some 2000 grit sandpaper and see what you can take off on the CV axle.