scoobydube

You must have full time AWD.

That pulley can be slide out on the center shaft, by using a hammer and a holding device for the pulley, so that you pound on the center shaft protrusion and push the water pump away from the front of the pulley. Also there are water pumps for pulleys with two different heights. The shorter one is for the GL. The taller one is for the GL10.

If you also do not have high beam on the right headlight, then it is probably one of the two relay switches that handle the headlights as well. They are located behind the fuse box panel above your left kneecap. All of the relay switches give off noxious fumes that are slowly killing the drivers of the older generation subarus. I ran electrical lines for all of my relay switches to air tight 30 cal ammo boxes that I put in the foot well for the rear seats.

I had better experience with the water pumps that had what looked like cast iron impellars. The thinner bent steel impellars did not last as long. Also, be sure and caulk the small top hole in the water pump in order to keep dirt and grime out of the bearing/seal.

Remove the driveshaft to the rear wheels.

Final update. By accident, after snapping up a subaru ground wire at a pick n pull, from another low mileage subaru, I installed the second ground wire in parallel with the current engine ground wire to the left side cam shaft cover area. Now, all of the relay switches that I am currently using cooled down to only nominal heating. Consequently, the horror stories that I described above about all of the new relay switches, may not in fact be applicable. So in conclusion, I recommend adding a second in parallel ground wire to your car if you have over 200,000 miles. Heck you may even be able to get those new bad boy LED headlights to work, without screwing up your digital dash and dash dimmers.

Well, I did not change the wiring on the car. As an update however, the original OEM relay switches that do not put out any fumes, are OK for the headlight circuits. However, those OEM relay switches are just too tired to get the full potential out of the engine, so I went with the newer, stinky relay switches and incorporated them into the nuclear option, which is running the appropriate gage wires into an ammo box in the back seat floor, where another relay switch connector is attached for the new relay switches. The engine relays run hot when new relays are used, just like the fan relays, so I put all three in the ammo box. Now I have full power for the engine. The older OEM relays would run cold for the engine circuit, they just no longer have the cahones to develop full power for the engine. And as an additional precaution, I now run two ground wires, at the same location. I know that when they get over 250,000 miles, then can get hot, get brittle and lose their conductivity at the connection to the body. When that happens, it is difficult to run accessories like electric windows, and still have the engine run smoothly.

Emergency Relay Switch Update. Do not install any new relay switches that you buy from anybody, including your Subaru dealer, BECAUSE THEY ARE ALL BAD. They are going to all get up to 130F, or they won't allow your engine to run smoothly, but for certain they will give off noxious fumes that are likely poisonous. You can thank the automobile conspiracy for getting these old Subarus off of the road for that, because this is how far they are willing to go in order to get you to buy a new car from them. It does not matter whether they are made in Japan, in China or in Taiwan, they are all bad and toxic to your health. Therefore, DO NOT CHANGE OUT YOUR RELAY SWITCHES. The relay switch that is most likely to blow is the Fan relay switch. When the Fan is in the number 3 position for more than about a 1/2 hour, then you are in danger of blowing that relay switch. If either of your two relay switches that run the engine cause the engine to no longer run, then swap them out with the other two or four relay switches that you have hidden behind the fuse box. The only relay switches that work properly are the ones that came with the original car. They have stamps on them like 01F17 or 03K15, but not exactly those stamps. GL10's have 6 relay switches. GL's have only 4 relay switches. If you are forced to go to then new toxic ones, then you are going to have to go nuclear and run wires from the relay switch connector by the fuse box, to a location in your car like the back seat floor, and find another actual relay switch connector that you will allow you to encasing your new toxic relay switch inside of a 30 caliber ammo box where the wire openings are caulked tight. Which is not a pretty option.

Try replacing a couple key relay switches beneath the dash, to the left of the steering column, that keep the engine running. You can figure it out when the engine is running, by pulling the relay switches one at a time. Stick with genuine OEM switches.

Do not buy DENSO relay switches off of EBAY, because the two switches that get real hot, put off noxious fumes inside the car.

Go back to the basics of new plugs, new distributor cap or scrape off the corrosion on the points inside and inspect center pin for wear, sandpaper the rotor top and tip, check the plug wire ends for corrosion, check the timing, replace the ground wire or check it for getting hot at the connection to the frame. If hot then replace it. Adjust the mixture to optimum. Check the connection to the alternator for rigid wire at the alternator end that loses conductivity as hit heats up. Replace the relay switches inside of the left end of the dash over your left knee.

The fix is to jack up the car at the hinges with both front and rear wheels off of the ground. Then put one person on the front bumper and one on the rear bumper area, and bounce the car until you bend the frame back to where it used to be. Do only a little bit of bouncing at a time, and then recheck.

It depends on your winter time temperatures. If you regular drop below 20 degrees F in winter, then that 5W -20W would be a good oil in winter. In summer, back to the 10W-40W for me.

I bought a set of the LED headlight bulbs that was deemed directly compatible with my OEM headlight bulbs. Big mistake. My digital dash went haywire and the engine began cutting out and otherwise ran poorly. Then the below dash relay switches were overheating and burning out. Finally, I realized that those LED's were screwing up my car big time, but only after I changed out my distributor, coil, cap and fusible links in a rain storm. Now I am back to the the OEM bulbs, have installed all new relay switches, and keep a handful of spare relay switches to pop in if I have any further problems. 524,000 miles on my 86 gl10 turbo.

How about bent frame from going airborne?

Yes, the original trim was a T-type with a very shallow embedded portion. It still is a source of a leak. Don't use any trim. Form the new trim with RTV sealant and your windshield won't leak.

How about ball joints?

Sure, grease will hold it in place for assembly. But what I was referring to was when the engine oil heats up over and over again, it expands the rubber of the seal and then causes it to buckle inward and break the oil seal, causing oil to leak out onto the oil pan and drip onto the ground at a prolific rate.

If you are talking about the outer trim corners, you don't need them because you can shape them by filling in the corners with RTV sealant and using painting tape to form the round edges.

BTW, you don't need to change the rubber seal. It is the outside trim that is the impossible to find and generally defective design that you would want to use RTV sealant as a substitute while you are using it as a base to set the windshield on.

You could buy 2 of them and chop them up to piece them together and get a complete fit. The windshield sets on the sealant, which auto supply shops do not sell the primer,so the sealant won't stick to the frame if you don't use the primer. The trim is not available either so you either have to use your old jagged pieces or just use the RTV black sealant to make it look like you have trim. The worst of your problems however, is the metal windshield frame at the base/ bottom/front of the windshield, which is usually mostly rusted out. Hopefully you have enough remaining to hold the BONDO GLASS that you are going to use to restore the original tray shape and allow that Bondo to seep through all those holes and the catch the flow through with a sagging duct tape form in order to provide a mechanical attachment for the Bondo to the metal frame.

I accidentally discovered my oil leak when I changed out the oil pump. The old mouse eared gasket again got hot, expanded and buckled inward, so as to then pump oil straight outside of the gasket containing boundary. For my new mouse eared gasket install, I RTV'd the offending portion of the gasket in place, so that it cannot buckle and leak. My mysterious engine oil leak then completely disappeared.

The T-type trim is inherently leaky since the embedded portion is a pathway for the water to find the bottom edge of the glass, causing a leak. I used RTV black silicone along both the top and bottom and kept the factory trim look by using some paint edging tape to make a perfect edge. Although I reused the corner trim pieces, I would not have needed to since I also could have produced a perfect corner with the edging tape and RTV. The original trim is no longer available anywhere. You can get some T-type trim from Rock Auto, but it is going to cause a leak. The bottom edge of your subaru windshield frame is probably rusted out pretty good. You can reform the original metal frame with BONDO - FIBER. The holes in the existing trim will allow the bondo to flow through and get a grip on the old metal. You can form the bottom free edge of your new drippy Bondo, with some duct tape that you allow to sag between the edges so as to form a continuous back side surface that keeps the new upper flat Bondo surface in place.

As a follow up to the above T-moulding suggestion, the deeper the embedded portion of the T is into the caulking, the more likely that not only is a leaky window going to happen, but the bottom metal shelf that the exterior plastic panels sit on, is going to rust to the point of having many small holes. If it hasn't already rusted. Cars that sit outside in the rain year round, are guaranteed to have rusted bottom shelves. Certified window replacement shops will not replace windshield with any of those small holes. So once they discover them, they stop work and you get to pay to have your car towed home. The solution at the bottom shelf, is to cut out all the trim and old caulking and then form round bottom formwork out of duct tape beneath the shelf, and then trowel bondo with fiberglass onto the bottom shelf so that it flows through those holes and forms a level top surface outside of the glass edge. Now you could go to a certified window replacement shop at this point, but they are just going to screw it up again unless you give them specific instructions. Those instructions are do not use any T-type moulding for either the top or bottom edges of the windshield. Use RTR or the black caulking that you buy in the auto shop. Form both edges of your caulk line in advance with electrical tape so you get perfectly straight lines and it looks like real moulding. For the side, you can get away with the T-type moulding embedded in the RTR caulking since leaks there just run downhill.

Leaving the engine in the car is the best way to get the highly torqued cylinder head bolts loose and retorqued. The secret trick for first timers is that there are 2 lengths of cylinder head bolts because there are two shoulder heights on the cylinder heads. If you put the short bolts in the tall shoulder holes, then you are going to strip out a bit of thread in the block. You can correct it though by going back to the long bolts in the tall shoulder holes and still get enough torque on the bolts. Felpro is the only way to go for head gaskets.