scoobydube

You can remove the auxiliary fan to improve the air flow around the engine, and install a lower temperature thermostat that opens up sooner. You can also drill some holes in your thermostat to increase the coolant flow and lower the engine temperatures that way. In the winter, you would want to put the standard thermostat back in. Few air conditioners still work.

Tell us what is at the other end of the wiring and we well tell you what is bad. I have six relay switches under my 86 turbo dash. Since they were getting real hot and putting of nauseating fumes, I relocated them to ammo cans placed behind the front seats. Two relay switches keep my engine running. Two relay switches keep the head lights and digital dash running. One relay switch keeps the fan running and one relay switch probably goes to the rear window defroster, which I removed the fuses for. The original relay switches are mostly bad by now. Do not buy new relay switches from Subaru, because you can buy the same ones off of Ebay for 1/4 the cost that the Subaru dealer is going to hose you for. When your engine suddenly stops running, the cause is usually either relays switches, the black fusible link, the left side timing belt broken, a bad coil, the condenser next to the coil, or a bad distributor. Carry spares where possible. You have to take your distributor apart periodically and make sure that the swing weights and all other moveable parts are swinging and rolling freely and have light weight lithium grease. I have never had an ECU go out in 530,000 plus miles.

My 86 Turbo has no wiring to the engine mounted radiator fan. The other auxiliary fan that blocks air flowing through the radiator and blocks cooling air to the turbo area, has wiring. But I took it completely out with no over heating problems whatsoever. I even went back to a single core radiator and have no problems. Take it out.

My first fuel pump broke down at 150,000 miles. My second fuel pump is still going strong at 380,000 miles but I carry a backup. In my experience, when the engine ground wire from the left cam cover by the battery, to the ground on the frame, becomes rock hard at the connection to the frame at 250,000 miles, multiple accessories will cause the engine to run rough. So you may have a bad ground wire. I run two ground wires at the same location because I am so paranoid of it happening again and at the worst possible location. Used fuel pumps from U-pull-it are fine if the car was not sitting for years before they sold it off to the yard. And they are cheap. As are the ground wires.

I doubt that you can buy the OEM breather hoses from Subaru anymore. The double curve hoses are particularly hard to replace by shopping on line because the offset of the two ends is unique to the car, and unlikely to be made by Gates and others. So I improvised for a fraction of the retail prices that I see listed on Ebay, by using 3/4" diameter high temp silicone coolant hose in the multilayer type, brass barbed elbows and then enough 7/8" clamps to make those single and double curves. Once the original hoses crack, then your engine is not going to run well. So I wanted to replace with the new and pliable hoses to head off that potential breakdown.

Coolant tanks don't shoot out coolant unless you have cracked heads, in my experience with a turbo.

You must have full time AWD.

That pulley can be slide out on the center shaft, by using a hammer and a holding device for the pulley, so that you pound on the center shaft protrusion and push the water pump away from the front of the pulley. Also there are water pumps for pulleys with two different heights. The shorter one is for the GL. The taller one is for the GL10.

If you also do not have high beam on the right headlight, then it is probably one of the two relay switches that handle the headlights as well. They are located behind the fuse box panel above your left kneecap. All of the relay switches give off noxious fumes that are slowly killing the drivers of the older generation subarus. I ran electrical lines for all of my relay switches to air tight 30 cal ammo boxes that I put in the foot well for the rear seats.

I had better experience with the water pumps that had what looked like cast iron impellars. The thinner bent steel impellars did not last as long. Also, be sure and caulk the small top hole in the water pump in order to keep dirt and grime out of the bearing/seal.

Remove the driveshaft to the rear wheels.

Final update. By accident, after snapping up a subaru ground wire at a pick n pull, from another low mileage subaru, I installed the second ground wire in parallel with the current engine ground wire to the left side cam shaft cover area. Now, all of the relay switches that I am currently using cooled down to only nominal heating. Consequently, the horror stories that I described above about all of the new relay switches, may not in fact be applicable. So in conclusion, I recommend adding a second in parallel ground wire to your car if you have over 200,000 miles. Heck you may even be able to get those new bad boy LED headlights to work, without screwing up your digital dash and dash dimmers.

Well, I did not change the wiring on the car. As an update however, the original OEM relay switches that do not put out any fumes, are OK for the headlight circuits. However, those OEM relay switches are just too tired to get the full potential out of the engine, so I went with the newer, stinky relay switches and incorporated them into the nuclear option, which is running the appropriate gage wires into an ammo box in the back seat floor, where another relay switch connector is attached for the new relay switches. The engine relays run hot when new relays are used, just like the fan relays, so I put all three in the ammo box. Now I have full power for the engine. The older OEM relays would run cold for the engine circuit, they just no longer have the cahones to develop full power for the engine. And as an additional precaution, I now run two ground wires, at the same location. I know that when they get over 250,000 miles, then can get hot, get brittle and lose their conductivity at the connection to the body. When that happens, it is difficult to run accessories like electric windows, and still have the engine run smoothly.

Emergency Relay Switch Update. Do not install any new relay switches that you buy from anybody, including your Subaru dealer, BECAUSE THEY ARE ALL BAD. They are going to all get up to 130F, or they won't allow your engine to run smoothly, but for certain they will give off noxious fumes that are likely poisonous. You can thank the automobile conspiracy for getting these old Subarus off of the road for that, because this is how far they are willing to go in order to get you to buy a new car from them. It does not matter whether they are made in Japan, in China or in Taiwan, they are all bad and toxic to your health. Therefore, DO NOT CHANGE OUT YOUR RELAY SWITCHES. The relay switch that is most likely to blow is the Fan relay switch. When the Fan is in the number 3 position for more than about a 1/2 hour, then you are in danger of blowing that relay switch. If either of your two relay switches that run the engine cause the engine to no longer run, then swap them out with the other two or four relay switches that you have hidden behind the fuse box. The only relay switches that work properly are the ones that came with the original car. They have stamps on them like 01F17 or 03K15, but not exactly those stamps. GL10's have 6 relay switches. GL's have only 4 relay switches. If you are forced to go to then new toxic ones, then you are going to have to go nuclear and run wires from the relay switch connector by the fuse box, to a location in your car like the back seat floor, and find another actual relay switch connector that you will allow you to encasing your new toxic relay switch inside of a 30 caliber ammo box where the wire openings are caulked tight. Which is not a pretty option.

Try replacing a couple key relay switches beneath the dash, to the left of the steering column, that keep the engine running. You can figure it out when the engine is running, by pulling the relay switches one at a time. Stick with genuine OEM switches.

Do not buy DENSO relay switches off of EBAY, because the two switches that get real hot, put off noxious fumes inside the car.

Go back to the basics of new plugs, new distributor cap or scrape off the corrosion on the points inside and inspect center pin for wear, sandpaper the rotor top and tip, check the plug wire ends for corrosion, check the timing, replace the ground wire or check it for getting hot at the connection to the frame. If hot then replace it. Adjust the mixture to optimum. Check the connection to the alternator for rigid wire at the alternator end that loses conductivity as hit heats up. Replace the relay switches inside of the left end of the dash over your left knee.

The fix is to jack up the car at the hinges with both front and rear wheels off of the ground. Then put one person on the front bumper and one on the rear bumper area, and bounce the car until you bend the frame back to where it used to be. Do only a little bit of bouncing at a time, and then recheck.

It depends on your winter time temperatures. If you regular drop below 20 degrees F in winter, then that 5W -20W would be a good oil in winter. In summer, back to the 10W-40W for me.

I bought a set of the LED headlight bulbs that was deemed directly compatible with my OEM headlight bulbs. Big mistake. My digital dash went haywire and the engine began cutting out and otherwise ran poorly. Then the below dash relay switches were overheating and burning out. Finally, I realized that those LED's were screwing up my car big time, but only after I changed out my distributor, coil, cap and fusible links in a rain storm. Now I am back to the the OEM bulbs, have installed all new relay switches, and keep a handful of spare relay switches to pop in if I have any further problems. 524,000 miles on my 86 gl10 turbo.

How about bent frame from going airborne?

Yes, the original trim was a T-type with a very shallow embedded portion. It still is a source of a leak. Don't use any trim. Form the new trim with RTV sealant and your windshield won't leak.

How about ball joints?

Sure, grease will hold it in place for assembly. But what I was referring to was when the engine oil heats up over and over again, it expands the rubber of the seal and then causes it to buckle inward and break the oil seal, causing oil to leak out onto the oil pan and drip onto the ground at a prolific rate.

If you are talking about the outer trim corners, you don't need them because you can shape them by filling in the corners with RTV sealant and using painting tape to form the round edges.