scoobydube

After searching and searching, the closest I could find was the Rock Auto Metro LP 100-Z windshield moulding/seal. It is a T-type moulding. I could not find any kits, nor corners.

The fine tip platinum plugs go bad real fast so you might want to check the plugs. Inside of the distributor cap, the 4 pins that send the spark out to the plugs, get corroded every 5000 miles and need the corrosion cleaned off with sandpaper. The plug wires get corroded inside of the connectors at each end. The engine ground wire goes bad at the connector to the body at 200,000 to 250,000 miles.

I bought an after market steering rack off of EBAY and it fit and works perfectly.

You need a new cylinder head. When they crack, they usually spill coolant into the exhaust at a couple of places. But oil is pushed through the cylinder head as well. You may have driven it too hard.

If you haven't fixed it yet, replace the headlight switch because it controls several different lighting features and indicators.

Try replacing the O2 sensor in the catalytic converter. They can suddenly go out and really screw up the engine. They are cheap and it looks like it is about time for a new one.

Does the rotor spin when you crank the engine? If not then you broke the left side timing belt. Can you get spark to the plugs as a timing light will show you, by plugging into each plug wire and grounding to plug? If yes, then you can check the timing at about 24 degrees BTDC, for No. 1 (front right) cylinder. Best to put some white paper white out paint on the 24 degree mark first. If you cannot see the white mark then your timing is way off, perhaps the timing belts jumped a tooth. The GL10 distributors have a short life expectancy. Better find a backup to always have on hand and to install here. If you have no spark and the rotor spins, then you probably have a bad cylinder. Buy used from John's Subaru in Laurelwood, Oregon, or get hosed on Ebay. Wires that get hard, brittle and stop conducting electricity are the hot wire into the back of the alternator, the engine ground wire at the body end, and the hot wire from the hot battery terminal wire to the bottom of the fusible link box (at the terminal wire end). The timing probably got off somehow, perhaps from the timing belts loosening up that allowed the timing belts to jump a tooth. Adjust timing belt tension in the front rubber pop out covers, with a 12mm socket, and don't lose it inside of the covers.

John's subaru in Laurelwood, Oregon has distributors.

You did not mention how many miles that it has. I would buy a new coil and throw that on. I would also take apart the distributor and see if the vacuum advance system is working properly because the tiny slide plate bearings start to carve grooves in the plate that they contact, causing less than desirable action. There are three wires that get hard, brittle and lose their ability to conduct electricity. One wire is the engine ground wire where it contacts the body. The second wire is the one that comes out of the back of the alternator. The third wire is the wire that come out of the positive battery terminal wire and goes into the bottom of the fusible link box. Those sections of wire will need to be replaced after 200,000 miles.

Item 12. A broken wire to either coil terminal will keep it from starting. Bonus #2: A failure to switch into 4WD can be caused by either a failure of, or disconnection of, either one of the two vacuum pumps on the right side of the engine compartment, just behind the air filter in the 86 GL10.

Single defective items that can by themselves keep the engine from starting and has put thousands of Subarus in junk yards: 1. the black fusible link is the main engine but any of them can start to break or get hard and brittle, causing intermittent and then total failure. 2. the thing a ma jig that bolts to the body, directly behind the fusible link box, that had one wire to the coil and the long black wire running to left side engine attachment next to the battery, where the ground wire attaches. The thing a ma jig also keeps static off of your radio and right before it blows, you get a lot of radio static. 3. the main engine ground wire get brittle and loses most of it's ability to conduct electricity and ground out the engine, at it's attachment to the frame. This single defect will cause the engine to run poorly when you operate any other accessory on the vehicle. For instance, you can almost kill the engine by operating your electric windows, if you have them. THIS IS THE MOST PROBABLE CAUSE OF YOUR PROGRESSIVE FAILURE. These wires may not last more that 250,000 miles. 4. a loose wire inside of the distributor cap 5. the short wire between the Positive battery terminal and the fusible link box, gets hard at the terminal end, brittle and loses most if not all of it's ability to conduct electricity, causing poor performance before a total engine failure. You splice in a new lead to the battery terminal, by splaying both ends of the two wire ends that you are joining, in order to get the maximum about of contact surface. 6. the distributor electronics just suddenly went out. 7. the hot wire that runs into the back of the alternator, gets brittle, hard and breaks, causing the engine to perform poorly before it suddenly fails. 8. bad plugs will cause your alternator to fail prematurely. Some plugs require replacement every 15,000 miles. 9. coil failure or corrosion inside of the lead wire from the coil to the distributor. 10. Bonus: a failure of the replaceable round switch below the dash board, to the left of the steering column, will cause the interior fan to suddenly fail, especially if you had just been running it at it's maximum speed. There are about 5 of these identical switches below that dash in the same location so you are going to have to get a known good switch and plug it into each switch socket, one at a time, before you find the burned out one. There may be black discoloration on the burned out one.

Item 2. above is probably a condensor. Item 11. A bad oxygen sensor in the catalytic converter, really screws up the engine.

An additional common problem is that the black computer chip assembly inside of the distributor, may be about to go out entirely. Always have a spare distributor that works. The plugs getting worn down, will cause occasional missing and help blow out the alternator prematurely. The ground wire to body, can get hot, brittle and lose conductivity resulting in lack of power to the engine and accessories. A bad Oxygen sensor in the exhaust can set that light off.

The wire that goes into the nut attachment on the back side of the alternator, can get hot, brittle and lose conductivity before it breaks altogether. That used to give me that code. Otherwise, do a search of my posts on here where I list about a dozen different electrical problems that cause engine failure and/or failure to start.

Felpro is what everybody is using these days, because you don't have to keep retorquing the head bolts.

On my 86T, that is one of two identical vacuum/suction devices that keep all of the other suction dependent devices functioning, such as the 4WD shifter as I recall. If your 4WD shifter goes out, this is the first thing that you check. The two vacuum/ suction devices are located directly behind the Turbo air filter assembly, on the engine right side of the car. They can become unplugged and therefore stop your 4WD from shifting, or you can break off that male tube extension that the hose is pushed over. I had one go out completely at maybe 350,000 miles. All of the suction gismos on top of the engine, are connected to that sucker. The distributor advance suction hose is independent of this system because it is a variable suction to the distributor.

That alternator likely has all kinds of internal corrosion and it does not take much to affect voltage output. Get a new one.

Single defective items that can by themselves keep the engine from starting and has put thousands of Subarus in junk yards: 1. the black fusible link is the main engine but any of them can start to break or get hard and brittle, causing intermittent and then total failure. 2. the thing a ma jig that bolts to the body, directly behind the fusible link box, that had one wire to the coil and the long black wire running to left side engine attachment next to the battery, where the ground wire attaches. The thing a ma jig also keeps static off of your radio and right before it blows, you get a lot of radio static. 3. the main engine ground wire get brittle and loses most of it's ability to conduct electricity and ground out the engine, at it's attachment to the frame. This single defect will cause the engine to run poorly when you operate any other accessory on the vehicle. For instance, you can almost kill the engine by operating your electric windows, if you have them. THIS IS THE MOST PROBABLE CAUSE OF YOUR PROGRESSIVE FAILURE. These wires may not last more that 250,000 miles. 4. a loose wire inside of the distributor cap 5. the short wire between the Positive battery terminal and the fusible link box, gets hard at the terminal end, brittle and loses most if not all of it's ability to conduct electricity, causing poor performance before a total engine failure. You splice in a new lead to the battery terminal, by splaying both ends of the two wire ends that you are joining, in order to get the maximum about of contact surface. 6. the distributor electronics just suddenly went out. 7. the hot wire that runs into the back of the alternator, gets brittle, hard and breaks, causing the engine to perform poorly before it suddenly fails. 8. bad plugs will cause your alternator to fail prematurely. Some plugs require replacement every 15,000 miles. 9. coil failure or corrosion inside of the lead wire from the coil to the distributor. 10. Bonus: a failure of the replaceable round switch below the dash board, to the left of the steering column, will cause the interior fan to suddenly fail, especially if you had just been running it at it's maximum speed. There are about 5 of these identical switches below that dash in the same location so you are going to have to get a known good switch and plug it into each switch socket, one at a time, before you find the burned out one. There may be black discoloration on the burned out one.

Single defective items that can by themselves keep the engine from starting and has put thousands of Subarus in junk yards: 1. the black fusible link is the main engine but any of them can start to break or get hard and brittle, causing intermittent and then total failure. 2. the thing a ma jig that bolts to the body, directly behind the fusible link box, that had one wire to the coil and the long black wire running to left side engine attachment next to the battery, where the ground wire attaches. The thing a ma jig also keeps static off of your radio and right before it blows, you get a lot of radio static. 3. the main engine ground wire get brittle and loses most of it's ability to conduct electricity and ground out the engine, at it's attachment to the frame. This single defect will cause the engine to run poorly when you operate any other accessory on the vehicle. For instance, you can almost kill the engine by operating your electric windows, if you have them. These wires may not last more that 250,000 miles. 4. a loose wire inside of the distributor cap 5. the short wire between the Positive battery terminal and the fusible link box, gets hard at the terminal end, brittle and loses most if not all of it's ability to conduct electricity, causing poor performance before a total engine failure. You splice in a new lead to the battery terminal, by splaying both ends of the two wire ends that you are joining, in order to get the maximum about of contact surface. 6. the distributor electronics just suddenly went out. 7. the hot wire that runs into the back of the alternator, gets brittle, hard and breaks, causing the engine to perform poorly before it suddenly fails. 8. bad plugs will cause your alternator to fail prematurely. Some plugs require replacement every 15,000 miles. 9. coil failure or corrosion inside of the lead wire from the coil to the distributor. 10. Bonus: a failure of the replaceable round switch below the dash board, to the left of the steering column, will cause the interior fan to suddenly fail, especially if you had just been running it at it's maximum speed. There are about 5 of these identical switches below that dash in the same location so you are going to have to get a known good switch and plug it into each switch socket, one at a time, before you find the burned out one. There may be black discoloration on the burned out one.

Actually not. They come with a strong tint and that tint is useless for the prevention of the slideable cover from heating up and radiating that heat down on top of your head.

Single defective items that can by themselves keep the engine from starting and has put thousands of Subarus in junk yards: 1. the black fusible link is the main engine but any of them can start to break or get hard and brittle, causing intermittent and then total failure. 2. the thing a ma jig that bolts to the body, directly behind the fusible link box, that had one wire to the coil and the long black wire running to left side engine attachment next to the battery, where the ground wire attaches. The thing a ma jig also keeps static off of your radio and right before it blows, you get a lot of radio static. 3. the main engine ground wire get brittle and loses most of it's ability to conduct electricity and ground out the engine, at it's attachment to the frame. This single defect will cause the engine to run poorly when you operate any other accessory on the vehicle. For instance, you can almost kill the engine by operating your electric windows, if you have them. THIS IS THE MOST PROBABLE CAUSE OF YOUR PROGRESSIVE FAILURE. These wires may not last more that 250,000 miles. 4. a loose wire inside of the distributor cap 5. the short wire between the Positive battery terminal and the fusible link box, gets hard at the terminal end, brittle and loses most if not all of it's ability to conduct electricity, causing poor performance before a total engine failure. You splice in a new lead to the battery terminal, by splaying both ends of the two wire ends that you are joining, in order to get the maximum about of contact surface. 6. the distributor electronics just suddenly went out. 7. the hot wire that runs into the back of the alternator, gets brittle, hard and breaks, causing the engine to perform poorly before it suddenly fails. 8. bad plugs will cause your alternator to fail prematurely. Some plugs require replacement every 15,000 miles. 9. coil failure or corrosion inside of the lead wire from the coil to the distributor. 10. Bonus: a failure of the replaceable round switch below the dash board, to the left of the steering column, will cause the interior fan to suddenly fail, especially if you had just been running it at it's maximum speed. There are about 5 of these identical switches below that dash in the same location so you are going to have to get a known good switch and plug it into each switch socket, one at a time, before you find the burned out one. There may be black discoloration on the burned out one.

You need to have a backup distributor because they "go" without warning, and then you are going to need a tow back home, because the Subaru dealer won't be open or won't fix it for a reasonable price.

Les Schwab carries winter and summer 13" tires.

If you have a GL10 or some other model with a sunroof, I found that the sliding cover is painted black on top that absorbs a lot of heat from the sun and then radiates it into the cabin. And the bottom of the cover is the hottest part of the ceiling on a sunny day. So the solution to that is to apply aluminum faced tape to the top side and you will be amazed in the results. Then the bottom of the cover is the coolest part of the cabin ceiling and on hot days you don't get that heat buildup radiating down on top of your head. Which is particularly annoying when it is over 100 degrees and your A/C does not work.

Try John's Subaru in Laurelwood, Oregon