Probz

I think ive seen your project on youtube, really nice mods!

First time broke the rear end bar on the left side where control arms fasten and left wheel was all tilted, welded it up. Second time broke right control arm and the wheel broke off and also broke the rightaxle. Got new control arm and reinforced it with steel bars. Last time broke the rear end bar on the right side and right wheel was heavily tiled.

Cut the car to pieces, kept the drivedrain. Made a little tribute video to my good times with my Subaru: Won't be any more updates in this thread, it can be closed! My plan is to use the drivedrain and build a tube chassis car, i will be making new thread once ive made some progress.

Thank you all for quality information! I am currently in progress of stripping down my car, taking out the drivetrain and cutting up the body to scrap (its super rusted and ive broken rear end 3 times so far, always wanted to build a tube chassis car). I got to finish up another project and then i can start working on the tube chassis and suspension, engine mods won't probably happen until winter time, but i will be making a new build thread once ive made some progress.

I am doing a research before buying parts for custom project. I plan on building custom intakes for dual carb setup (independent carb for each head), i was thinking about getting MPFI heads for better flow but the heads that are available to me have no valvetrain, i was wondering if carb single intake port heads valvetrain(cam, lifters...) fit on MPFI dual port heads? MPFI heads compression ratio comes from different pistons not head clearence? I was wondering how much can i shave down the head without running into clereance issues.

Its the end of an era! Broke the rear end again, can't be breaking any more axles they are hard enough to find. I guess ill be ditching the body in summer, taking the drivedrain and building tube chassis. I could build a custom rear end but frame is so rotten there is nowhere to weld, and ditching the weight of a body and building a buggy type frame has been always a dream of mine.

Thats a sweet car, can't wait to see more! Can you maybe click a pic from engine bay next?

Been having no grip on snow with these tires, tried out snow chains for the first time of my life. Having amazing grip on roads, not so much in snowy fields.

Thank you all for feedback. Build thread is here: I have pretty much achieved anything i want with this car, body is shot and rusty, rear end is weak, already broken it once, power steering cant handle big wheels and i cant get any more power out of ea82. I have dreamed of ditching the body and building this drivedrain on a tube chassis but at this point i think it would be wiser to build it on some newer style subaru with ej22 and turbo, also it will be easier to find axles.

I posted this link into my build thread but it probably gets no attention there. I made a short video of me ripping around in my hobby built loyale. Car is no professional race car neither am i rally driver. I just built it for fun and i like driving around in my country side place.

https://youtu.be/M9rRhDmOnN4

Any solutions?

After using wider and bigger wheels (6 lug swap) my power steering is constantly puking and sweating(I drive it really hard in dirt, constant 4-5k RPM). Recently a power steering pulley broke in half, it was tricky to weld but i managed to fix it up. Today power steering pulley sheered off these small grooves that keep it from spinning around the shaft. I have trouble finding new power steering pulley. Does anyone know if any other power steering unit is easy to fit on EA82 engine? Any power steering from newer Subarus? Is there some place i can buy a new pulley? Any experience from not running a power steering on Loyale?

Looking good! Whats up with the muffin tray?

Car is back together, runs like a top. 12 degrees ignition advance, pulling decent vacuum, not so stable but still works good. Installed accuspark rev limiter Video of a short rip down the field, lost power steering pulley.

Nice of you to drive the car around like its meant to be driven, usually when i get nice paint on a car, i wanna keep it safe like a baby and barely drive it around.

Finally managed to score these bad boys: Control arms are in worse condition than the ones i got on my car, but since one of mine is bent and broken off i can use one of these, patch it up and make it stronger. Also i am super happy about rear axles. Now i even got a one spare one.

So i broke my rear axle and rear control arm and i have trouble finding new axle. Need some suggestions. I can weld up new rear end with stronger control arms but i can not find replacement rear right axle. Can i use axles from newer subarus? Can i use cv joints from any other subaru? Does the driveshaft match any later subarus differential? Should i use another diff from later model subaru with new axles? I really need some suggestions.

No luck with rear control arm. I can build whole new custom rear end but the problem is with cv axle. I can not find rear cv axle or cv joints ANYWHERE? Can someone link me where can i find replacement rear axle?

So today this happened: Gonna be hard to find new rear control arms... We do not have any old subarus in our country. I might know where one loyale is but its cross country. Thinking of welding custom control arms that withstand the abuse. But first ill try to locate that other loyale i know and maybe score some control arms from that car and make them stronger.

Small update, ordered cheapest steering wheel from Ebay and made adapter for it using original steering wheel mount.

Gaskets arrived so i got the engine back together and in the car. I finally decided to do the 6 lug swap. The original wheels with 13 inch dry rotted tires would not hold air anymore. Wheels came from Toyota Land Cruiser, they are 15inch and 8 inch wide. Finding the center to drill was pain to get accurate so i got 15mm washers with the 5mm insides so the 5mm drill bit fit exactly center. Wheels fit and look cool, but the front fenders need some trimming. Tires are 195/70/R15 and they are kinda "stretched" for 8 inch wheels, but they were the only tires i had laying around. Also crappy quality video of engine running for the first time after getting it back together.

I haven't posted for a while and thats because ive been busy with work and i recently bought a jeep grand cherokee 1993 5.2 magnum (my loyale gave me bit of an offroad fever). Ive been busy working on jeep. This week ordered new head gaskets and decided to start working on subaru again. Gaskets were supposed to arrive today but for some reason they didn't. While i waited for gaskets to arrive i cleaned up heads and head bolts. Head bolts don't look too good but i have no luck finding new ones near me. I found some in another country but they are bit pricey for my taste. So im reusing the old ones. Does anyone know what size are head bolts? I need to clean threads on the block but i have hard time finding a tap or thread chaser that fits. I measured the bolts and they look like M10 or odd M11, thead size seems to be 1.25. Im afraid they are M11 and i dont think there is a tap for that. Anyone seen score marks on lover side of pistons? I have them on 2 pistons, i thought maybe they are caused by carburetor pieces that intake sucked in, but bore does not have any scratches. Also i was thinking about taking 2mm off from head bolts since they are used and maybe streches, but since i dont have a thread chaser for that size i don't think i wanna grind them shorter. Any suggestions?

Disassembled the engine today, timing belt had come loose on cylinders 2 and 4 side, tensioner bolt has stripped threads in block. Took the whole engine a part but did not find 2 missing pieces from carburetor, is it possible that they exited trough exhaust? Im worried about these cracks, both heads had them between valves. Is it bad? Anyone seen anything like this?

Got the car back home yesterday. Today took compression test - 125psi cylinder 1, 50psi in cylinders 2-4. Got the engine out just now. For my surprise the lower transmission bolts that stick out are too short for engine stand. The other engine stand that i specially welded for this engine is in use right now so i got nowhere to mount the engine for teardown.