Jadu108

But iv dye is the best. With a blacklight youll see it instantly... And its really gokd for checking the condensor, etc. As far as squriting soap water or snoop or whatever, id pressure the system to normal psi as thats what youre gonna have the system at anyway...

Uv dye and a black light is my go to. Your method would work as well i think.

For got to add, Automatic Transmission

Replacing the hoses was a big difference. Also have a leaking fuel injector it seems. At some point in the near future ill replace the plugs, wires, and injectors... But for now im working on other things that i started a new thread for. Thanks everyone...

95 legacy wagon 2.2l Ive been diagnosing a high speed vibration for awhile. Its generally not felt in the steering wheel so much as it is felt through the whole car. Initially changing the brake calipers out had helped, as one was stuck and the rest in various stages of getting stuck. Initially that worked for a fee hundred miles... Checked the calipers again, one was stuck again, replaced it. Went away for a couple hundred miles, came back, the calipers are fine this time. Even wear on the pads(all replaced as well). Ive since done an alignment and replaced all the tires, balanced etc. The rear driver side is scalloping on the inside tread, so i rotated the tires and that didnt solve anything... So the back struts are dead for sure, i get no play or feed back in the spring when i check for bad bearings... The differential has began seeping, but nothing alarming as far as rate. No odd smell of burning up the rear diff. But the seepage seems to be coming from above and around the other side of the fill plug... There is no oil on the axles what so ever. The bushings are 50\50. Axles look, feel, and sound fine. I cant really identify a specific noise while driving, as in humming, howling, growling, grinding, but it does seem road noise is loud(er?) Am i dealing with shitty struts, can i overlook the bearings, should i be trying to check the drive shaft or rear diff Is there something i can do while its on 4 stands to check? Ive read other threads recently posted but im not sure my front is to blame as it feels like its in the rear. It doesnt really care if im turning to the left or right, tight turning is still responsive(i think. Ive never had an awd, so maybe i dont understand what torque bind is etc), no clicking. Its seem to be more prominent at higher speeds, above 70mph, seems to be better when its cold or dark outside(weird?), but once it starts i can feel it all the way back down to 30-40 mph. Idk. Thanks for any insight.

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Forgot to check the gas cap. But i did discover the 2 lines coming from the right side of (i think?) the egr that no longer fit snug. They arnt cracked or anything, but i could pull them off rly easily, and to test i pushed them on as hard as i could and drove around, and the power response seemed much better and more consistent... But that was light driving. Regardless ill replace those hoses tmrw and put it through a longer harder drive and see what i happens. Does anyone know the diameter of those little vaccume hoses? However im still lost on the pop while braking. The pads are secure, the clips are solid, the ball joint is good as far as i could try to move with a pry bar. The bushing on that control arm look alright but i guess looking at it doesnt do much :p. i guess i can replace the sway bar links and the control arm bushings and see what i get, but ill have to work in some time to do that. Maybe when i got a couple days of where i dont need to use the car.

The filler isnt very rusty at all... Just some surface spots here and there. Havnt gotten around to check the front yet. I was busy messing around in the back of the car. Ive been getting some vibration/shaking i feel like is coming from the back, so i checked the bearings(seem smooth, no play), axles(same) etc. Im leaning on my camber is out... However i cant tell if its from my strut being dead, or some bushings. Gr.

Sounds like a fuel filter. Had a civic the same thing, changed everything around it, finally we pulled the filter and that poor thing was so trash :(. IIRC should be under the hood on the driver side near the brake booster on tjose imprezas

Fuel filter?

The car is from Salt Lake City. And as far as i know its been between SLC/Idaho its whole life. Rust as a whole is minimal with none on the frame, but ive had to change all of the calipers do to rust and crud causing them to stick. Ill check for rust in the filler neck later. Ill be puttin the car on stands a bit later in the day and ill try to see if its the sway bar links and bushings. I guess i can also pull the caliper off and make sure the pads and the clips are fit snug in the unit.

95 Legacy L 2.2l Auto Few things been popping up that I just cant quite get a good bead on. So im throwing code p0440, which initially popped up because i had broken the weld on exhaust near the cat, and ran it for awhile. Eventually got it welded back up and it i regained some lost power, then the code popped up again, then after a thousand or so miles my power loss comes back. Since then ive noticed a slight drop in mpg, as well as what sounds like lifter or valve tick. Also have been having issues with the a popping noise when braking. Its a very feint pop when i initially brake. Ive gotten under there and checked to make sure the caliper isnt loose and that everything is on right. The pads appear to be seated properly... Ive replaced the tie rods recently. Ball joint looks and feels fine as much as i can tell. Axles look fine. Perhaps Control arm bushings? Any help on any of these is super helpful. I got a couple weeks to get this stuff figured out. Maybe less to narrow down the issues. Thanks a ton

Well none of those sound to terrible really. Just for an uncomfortable ride on my back and tires... So far the worst thing im noticing is my tire isnt in alignment... Steering is still responsive and solid... But i was also guessing something with the strut/coil/top hat as i was really feeling it out on the highway.

I just think its odd that its coming after ive done a lot of work in the area. Tie rods, rack and pin, ball joint, and just yesterday the whole knuckle assy to do wheel bearing. And even then after i drove it after the bearing was finished it was great. Idk... If its sway bar link on bushing im probably over it long enough to get home... But i just dont want to go through and it be the tie and ball joint again, i mean i just changed them and solved those pops and chunks.

95 legacy Its only when im going over curbs or something. Pot holes do it if im going slow. Alrdy changed tie rods and ball joints. When i break nornal its fine, but like if i kinda hit the brakes hard, its more like i feel the clunk than hear it... The noises from the curbs are heard not felt. Im leaning toward a control arm bushing? If thats what it is i just dgaf anymore. I need to get home. Trying to do hard turns and violent back and forths do nothing accept feel and sound normal. Cant make noise on my own. Im not fat enough

Dude there was no 50$ shop to press it in for me. Subaru #1 wouldn't do it. Subaru #2 wanted 200$. spoob holes wouldnt touch it. Some wouldnt do it for less than 100. And most ppl made up some liability excuse... I really got left without much choice unfortunately

Wheel bearing is replaced. Followed Generals advice as for pulling from the junk yard. 1000 times better. There was no wheel play but after the whole assy was off, there was a ridiculous amount of play in that bearing... Thank you General. Thanks to everyone else. I believe my free car is finally able to ve safely driven back home.

The ball joint was the biggest bitch to remove... So i took generals advice and pulled one from junk yard. Found one that had a new axle nut, and lo and behold the bearing looks near new too. Time to take it home, clean it up and regrease, throw it on and ill get back with results.

Also alignment is alrdy gone. When i was given the car the immediate concerns were ball joints, tie rods, rack and pinion, brakes, rotors and calipers and ive replaced them. So the alignment is thr last thing im doing as obviously im still getting at that area. Also i do have experience in bearing pressing, buts its been a really long time since ive done it(like 10 or 11 yeara) and i do not have a press, or access to one.

Sorry. 95 legacy. There isnt a prepressed assmebly for older models unfortunately. General disorder. I had one subaru shop here in Salt Lake(mark miller subie) say the exact same thing you did about subaru not wanting to do it, but the other said theyd do it for like 200$(nate wade subie). Honestly, im travelling, recovering from my other vehicle being totaled,and funds are limited as i still need to get home. Honestly i bought a new bearing, but im gonna try and take the advice and go to the junk yard it this morning. I remember seeing a few good knuckles in the yard attatched to some fresh looking axles. Fingers crossed and Hopefully they are still there.

I could probably rent one. Actually. Which i probably will. Friend says he hears the noise more in the floorboard area closer to the transmission exceot when im braking then its def in the wheel well. i can definitely feel it in the spring when the car is jacked up. I imagine the noise just resonates down the axle when there isnt much load? Well regardless. Seems i know what tomorrow's project will be. Thank you guys. Any tips or tricks I could use?

Im going to do one more drive with a friend to verify the position of the noise, as well jacking the car up when im back. But im getting a lot of feed back for wheel bearing. A couple follow up questions. So far im getting quotes in excess of 100$ to have a shop press a new bearing into the hub. Is that fair? Seems ridiculous to me. One shop refused to press a bearing and insisted they do the job start to finish... Am i able to do this without a press? Or would pulling a fresh looking hub in the junk yard be the way to go without a press?

Im getting a humming noise in the front of the vehicle. Noise starts at 30, gets loudest at 50/55. When breaking it is audible until stop. Breaking hard makes it audibly worse... Changing lanes to try and put pressure on the suspected side doesnt really cause a noticable difference. But being in the driver seat to hear exactly where it is coming from. Its definitely coming from the right of me, but im having a hard time telling if its the wheel well or something closer to me. I really cant figure it out. Not excessive play in the tire, neither from side to side, top to bottom, or in an out..., i can maybe move the shaft of the axle a tiny amount when i grip it. Diagnosis has been inconclusive. This is really bugging me and setting me back. Is it transmission, axle, bearing? Uhg. Any help is appreciated. Its definitely not tread noise, i changed the tires yesterday. Ive also replaced ball joints, tie rods and rack and pinion. None of those have answered the issue. Brakes were recently done but it doesnt sound like brake noise... And its not road noise... Salt lake has like 50 different types of road and the noise is consistent. So consistent it haunts me... Also feeling the hubs around the bearing, none feel excessivley hot.

So title says it. 95 legacy. Ive done the obvious attempts. The ball joint just wont pop out of the knuckle. Control arm no problem. I saw some people make a tool but that requires a drill or drill press, neither of which i have access to atm. Would a bolt style wheel puller work?

Theres a few questions below. Please feel free to answer any or all of them. Any help is appreciated. I tried to organize the post below I put a lot of the details i know about this car in the intro thread, but some basic info will be included. 95 legacy, 231k, lots of work has been done to maintain the engine and tranny, however i inherited a mess of safety issues. I will bullet my concerns below to keep organized and an easy read. Hopefully this post will keep my spacing inbetween topics. 1)Alternator: just discovered today, but someone had clamped the wires into the terminal connectors with the insulation, this inevitably melted and corroded the wires underneath and caused a short, i jerry rigged it for now, but the terminal bolt is also stripped and will not come off, nor can it be tightened... The alternator is fine otherwise, my question is am i able to replace just the terminal on an alternator? Or am i looking at changing the whole unit :(... Not that its hard, but you gotta hate wasting money because someone sucked at life when installing the current one. 2)Popping noise front passenger wheel area when hitting harder bumps?: I have replaced the rack and pinion, and inner and outer tie rods. The cv axles look fine and have no excessive play or anything. I am between the control arm bushing, which look fine, but not that you can see it, or the ball joint, which looked fine until i caught a specific angle and saw that one side of it is completely bare... The question here is, if it isnt the ball joint, will the control arm bushing become dangerous if failed, it looks like a solid piece with no chance of catastrophic failure unless it becomes unbolted... The driver side ball joint by comparison looks fine and its claimed just that one was repaired within the last yr or 2... With the otherone being at least 40k miles. Maybe older... 3)Steering: The reason why i changed the rack and pinion is because it was shot. Wasnt leaking but there was a lot of free play in the steering, there was alot of free play just pulling on the tie rods themselves, there was definite stiffness in the steering that increased the more it was used throughout a driving session(i.e. lots of turns in short amount of time would cause very notable rise in stiffness). And on hard turns from stop or going slow caused alot of vibration and feedback in the steering... So new one is in and fine, most of the symptoms are gone, but occasionaly i still get that vibrating feedback... Occasionally... And its no where near as severe... My question here is, am i just experiencing some aire in the system and need to rebleed the power steering? Or am i getting a warning sign that the pump is going out? Any other thoughts or suggestions on this question would be appreciated. Thanks for your time... I appreciate any thoughts or advice.