critical_max

Tow Dollies at U-Haul I used to dispatch U-Haul for the Western Washington region a few years ago. There weren't more than 2-3 operational TD units (Tow Dollies) in all Washington state at any one time. That sort of equipment would get stolen and turn up years later. One time the regional marketing manager in my county found a small trailer in somebody's yard by the road in the country, painted over in disguise. They later ID'd it as a trailer that had gone missing 15 years ago from a local franchise. Reservations at U-Haul Reservations just mean you're first in line, If and only If the unit shows up at the same place and time as you do. There is no surplus, as 2/3 of their rolling stock was "down for repairs" at any one time. Renting at U-Haul Do what Dr.RX said, call every location involved with the process to a)verify that your equipment is present and being held for you, and if equipment is expected to arrive for you but now is in transit then: ask about other equipment that's there that you can switch to. c) If you can, just drive to the franchise and pick one on the lot to rent. that way you get to see it. Pick the newest one. Consider driving to a different rental franchise if there are no new ones (shiny ones).

M12x1.25 for Nissan, Subaru, and Suzuki McGard lockable wheel nuts - 24154SU Locking wheel nut set by McGard. Suitable for Nissan, Datsun, Subaru, Suzuki. ray's engineering lug nuts M12x1.25 for "most japanese cars" (other than the big H) http://www.rxecret7.com/raenlugnu.html Looks like all Nissans share it? JWX was right, it was a dead simple google

Oh so true, my sedan had a nice orange coating under the trunk "floor" and on the factory jack... (which still worked as I found out one day in the middle of nowhere (the look on my friends' faces "this car has *two* spare tires??")... but that's beside the point) All the serious car restoration folks seem to give very high priority to drain holes, and unfortunately they are all out of sight. Fortunately the cardboardish fender wells are easy to remove.

Agreed, this is probably due to corrosion on the driver's side switch. Same thing on my power windows. You could take the switch out and clean it up, probably the best way to fix it...

He needs to know if there is reference material for an '88 Justy online: "Is there an online supplier that has such maintenance information on this particular car available?" Sadly, I am just the messenger - I don't know where to find the info. Saw a SWEET red, decal'd 5spd 4wd Justy parked in downtown Eugene the other week though

I worked for an airline caterer where some of the "ramp trucks" (the lift trucks that service the aircraft with snack/drink carts, and facilitate smuggling operations for international cartels (I kid you not)) ran on propane. These were big Ford F600s, 20 years old if they were a day. Ran real strong. I got to fill them up on the rare occasions when the fuel ran out on my shift... although it was always a little nerve-wracking working with the high pressure I never had anything bad happen. As others have mentioned, the filling/tank hardware is heavy-duty, and the stuff burns nice and clean. torquey, but then again so is any big-block V8

That's awesome, the only towing I ever did with a Soob was an 85 GL 4WD wagon pulling a Chevy G20 van a block or two. Had to pop it into 4-Lo to get going, but no problems from there. Wayyy too much fun, wish I had pictures.

Do it Blindsight! There are sooo many old EA82 wagons out there, and how many 4WD lowriders?

Thanks for posting pics. How much do those tires run, and how many autocross runs can you get out of them? PM me and I can put the movie up ... crappy uplink speed on my cable connection but people could get it, eventually.

My car came in that condition, bent arm, front passenger's side. Don't pay 800 for that car, is my advice. There are better deals out there.

Large clouds of smoke sound bad. I drove a car in this condition or near (sweet smelling exhaust is a big clue) and had to get a new core installed eventually. I would highly recommend a simple compression check to see how much pressure each cylinder is holding. The testing gauge is $15-30 at reputable stores. The Chiltons/Haynes style manuals explain the procedure. A cracked head or blown head gasket would become obvious. And don't drive it if you can help it!

I got a Metra for my sedan. Only problem was the stereo didn't have its metal frame (don't know the exact term) with it, so the kit doesn't support it so well. The people at the store said it was impossible to get the frames. Fit and finish in the dash for this kit is great. They also do the wiring adapter. Came from a local stereo shop.

That's harsh! Glad you and the majority of your posessions weren't hurt. I bet you could gather a pretty good shop-raising crew from Central Oregon board members if you plan the occasion right. A lot of us would take almost any excuse to drive out there! Do you know what the cause of the fire was yet?

Great advice Gary. I'm also wondering about catalytic converter replacement as mine is assumed to be original. How early do they clog? Would an exhaust set from a 50,000 mile donor car be a great improvement?

Neither Chilton's nor Hayne's manuals tell you which side is the low side. A search here a little while back turned up nothing (I bought one of those kits too, it's high 90s here). Good information to have in the archives.

Thanks turbone and alleyboy. Your advice seems good. Stopping the rust will be first priority, and I'll go from there. I found the phone number for Mill's Supply on another forum post. After I get around to stopping the rust I will call them and get quotes.

The rear driver's side corner of my sedan is a little pushed in - about .5-1 inch, just below the taillight. The metal is all crinkly in that area, and starting to rust. Rust = bad. The only rust on the car is in the rear, the other big spot is the floor of the trunk (lid doesn't quite fit flush anymore, probably due to same collision.) How difficult is it to replace that area of sheetmetal? What should I expect to pay a body shop to replace it? From what I can see it would need to be cut out and a replacement welded in, since it's the same piece of metal that goes up to the roof. Thanks for your advice.

That's awesome, can't wait to see it on your wagon! My exhaust needs to be replaced from the outlet ports back, so you could consider me a potential customer too

I too have a mystery stumble. Hadn't considered the fuel pump. So many things "could" be replaced... thanks for the tip on the part, I will look out for it in the boneyards.

I had a mystery highway sound at any speed over 60... sounded like a hailstorm on my roof... turned out to be the C-pillar's trim pieces, coming loose at one end and vibrating. It sounds like a vibration. Get under the hood, when the engine's cold, and wiggle everything you can reach. Yank on all the outside trim too, including mudflaps, bumpers, mud shields inside fenders, etc. If it sounds like plastic, wiggle plastic parts first. Let us know if you find anything suspicious, or have any other insight (like associated symptoms, power/drivetrain trouble, etc).

Thanks for the information! Wouldn't any belt designed for an EA82 sans A/C fit an OEM A/C-equipped EA82, without the A/C compressor? I understand the process of removing A/C basically involves removing the compressor, all associated plumbing, and replacing the belt which used to drive the compressor with one smaller. Saving even 20lbs sounds like a good thing for a feature that is turning out to be more trouble than it's worth (in my case). I'll google those part numbers and see what I can find.

I have the same question as air conditioning seems to be an unnecessary complication. Especially when it's non-working and the only manual is the FSM I don't have. So, surely someone here has removed their EA82/EA82T's air conditioning system? Perhaps you can tell us how the belts were replaced.

Caboobaroo, your coupe is looking great! an unbelievable JY find, really. Where are you getting the Lexan windows from? I just washed my RX does that count? no more moss starting in the trim strips... contemplating bodywork for the little dents that are all over... bondo kingdom awaits I put 600 miles on mine weekend before last, hauling a car full of my sister's possessions as she is travelling and I agreed to store stuff ... it squeaks a little bit at the rear right, after traversing the broken-pavement racetrack that is I-5 south of Salem, twice. Ran at 3/5 temp gauge at 70mph+ without trouble for hours though.

People have talked about super-duper copper gaskets and the like. Supposedly these are better than the stock gaskets, and would help keep that synthetic oil in. I think I need to start a thread about switching between the oils, better than hijacking this one... hehe

Will the rear seat from a wagon fit? You could check a junkyard for one... My sedan's rear seat's center cushions fold down... barely