fuji4x4

Well I found out it is the air conditioning step off valve. Basically keeps your car from idling too low while running AC.

I doubt I need it considering half ea81s dont have it but I'm curious if anyone knows

I've recently done the weber swap on my 84 ea81 and while deleting the vacuum hoses I noticed I have a diaphragm attached to the top of my intake manifold that I dont have on my stock 81 gl. What is this for? The metal "L" used to contact the throttle bracket on the Hitachi.

Also I would like to add if anyone has an Instagram I keep a build page on there to log my photos. Feel free to follow me at fuji4x4

I've been a member on the forums for around a year now and this is going to be my first non question post. I figured it's time to start giving back now that it's been around a year. I will continue to post a few entries until we are up to date with my mods.. This is my 84 4x4 GL I received from my grandfather as a gift. When I received it a year ago its clutch was warn to the rivets and basically everything was moldy. These were the only KNOWN issues lol. As you can see she looks like she was in a lake. But she cleaned up nice. Next step was towing her to my place and learning how to work on my first subie. (Photos as of Feb/Mar '19)

I keep seeing it and I hope someone saves it!! GL 3 door hatchback!

Also would like to update anyone interested. She has been running perfectly smooth since the PB fix and the OEM cable

When pushing in clutch the left wall of the box would bend here under the pressure

Whole pedal box assy out:

I was saying PB, short for pedal box. So I apologise for confusing anyone. But yes if you push in your clutch pedal with your hand and you see it flexing or cracking the pedal box at all. That is your problem. I've found out that any play what so ever makes it nearly impossible to actuate the clutch. And as for getting down there yeah it's super tight and you have to take that "kick panel" (I just call it the under dash) and then if you end up taking the pedal box out I had to remove my gas pedal bc it wouldn't come over the steering with it on.

Started grinding at the worst part and although it did smooth it out idk if it's going to take those chunks off. What do you think? Are they too far gone? And how smooth does this area need to be?

I've an extra set of spoked GL wheels that I've been wanting to restore. Started grinding rust off but once I had tires removed the bead seat area seems to be far too gone.

It was infact the pedal box that was the CAUSE. A sidenote was the cables terrible quality. Basically just welded this plate on the wall that was cracked and bending. Strong as hell now.

Alright guys thank you, I have solved the issue. It was both the PB and the cable. The one thing I learned from this is BUY QUALITY PARTS. Man the difference between the oriellys cable and the genuine Subaru cable is insane. Can you guess who is who?

Cable works great. Very smooth. The pedal box is very bendy so I wonder if that's it. EDIT: Got new cable from dealership. The "new" one that I put on already has bent washers.. it was from oreillys. And taking the PB to my buddy's shop to have reinforced. We shall see if this fixes the issue.

YES it does bend but I thought that was a reaction to pressure. Not the reason for pressure!

Clutch is the luk15003. And yes everything is the same. Also got this car as a gift from my grandfather so I know the history.

I've pulled the engine and gone over everything so many times I know I have every inch memorized haha I'm at the end of my rope

Alright guys, I've been trying to figure out this issue on my own as well as help from several mechanic friends and TONS of research on the forums but it's finally requiring me to make a post. I have an 84 EA81 4wd GL. Came to me completely stock. Once clutch was replaced the clutch cable snapped (old cable what ever) I replaced the cable and it was still hard but shifted... For almost 300 miles. For those 300 miles I kept having to adjust it closer and closer until the TOB has to be grinding on the flywheel to get enough leverage to push the PP in. I thought maybe it was a malfunctioning PP I got so I bought an all new nicer clutch kit. STILL ROCK HARD CLUTCH I've read hundreds of threads searching the replies for my golden ticket as to why my clutch is hard as rock to push in. I've gone through and tested each component independently. Pedal>Cable>Fork>TOB>PP>Disk>Flywheel Cable routed correctly, no pressure unless trying to actuate clutch. Pressure plate just too hard to actuate! Only thing I can think of is something wrong with the fork or TOB (which is new and properly greased) My entire body weight pressing against the clutch pedal is ALMOST enough to actuate the clutch. There's got to be something simple I'm skipping over Out of the hundreds of threads I've had to of read by now, my issue seems to mirror the one found unresolved in this thread https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/138371-hard-clutch-pedal/?tab=comments#comment-1164388

My front suspension is so springy that the car bounces down far enough to smack the CV axles lol! Not fun!

Alright guys so I've been lurking on these threads for a while but I've recently ran into an issue with my build that required me to post a question. I have an 84 GL 4WD and it seems to be that front struts are completely obsolete besides Gabriel struts on eBay for $300. Now do the next gen struts from the loyals fit directly without modification? Or any other Subaru? From my digging in the forums I've found a lot on 3rd gen/loyal struts but almost nothing on 2nd gen.