Subaru_dude

Just highlight it and you can see it lol.

It's been a little over a year since I destroyed my Outback. Just one final commemoration so that it will live on in everybodys memories as the awesomely perfect Outback that it was.

My sisters '96 Legacy started binding because of different sized tires and the fuse didn't help. She had the duty C replaced and her bf did a few drain/refills. Soon after it was binding again but before it got bad she dropped the 2wd fuse in there and just drives it in 2wd. I forget why but there is a reason for multiple duty C failures. Sometimes even replacing it over and over doesn't help. Best bet (in my opinion) would be to replace the duty C and fluid, then keep the 2wd fuse in there just for the heck of it. AWD is great in snow and rain, but otherwise it's really not necessary. The Legacy is still my sisters favorite car regardless of whether it's 4wd or not. She's had a '94 Camry and '97 Civic, the Legacy is easily far better quality than either of those cars. The Camrys interior door handles were garbage as well as the exterior door handles and electric windows, and the Civic didn't handle the city life too well. Lots of rattles and creaks after a few years of potholes. Doesn't bother the Legacy a bit.

Best stuff I've ever used was Valvoline Syntec gear oil. It's synthetic and it works GREAT. I'm currently running Lucas though and it's good too. But I've had many a trans that was crunchy and clingy, the valvoline syntec cleared that right up.

Well went to grab wiring from an '88 at the junkyard. Well, it's been in a barn with the windows down for a few years and the wiring under the dash is pretty well chewed up. Luckily there was an '87 there that had spfi but GUESS WHAT... somebody decided to cut all the wiring under the hood. I grabbed what I could which was probably a waste of moneyl (definitely a waste of money), so I'm still on the lookout for a spfi car I can grab all the parts from. I'm broke, so it'll be a while. In the mean time, it is for sale at $1000obo. $225 for the known running hydro lifter EA81 motor but I'm NOT SHIPPING. I will forge ahead with the spfi swap and if I get done, then so be it. If not and there's no interest it's getting crushed.

Alright, I "properly" adjusted the timing today. Swapped vacuum advance to the passenger port on front of carb and tried unhooking the other plugs while it was running. Went through EVERY single plug and it either acted worse, or made no difference. Keep in mind that I let it warm up and completely unhooked the choke, which still leaves it idling awfully high. I'm at a complete loss... I'm just going to assume these carbs won't run without the canister (I had an EA82 that I stripped and left the canister, and it ran fine). There's nothing else I can do with this thing, they just can't be de-emissioned. I'm going to the JY tomorrow to grab the SPFI stuff and get RIGHT on that and say goodbye to carb problems FOREVER!!!! (hopefully)...

I replaced a sticking thermostat on an '88 GL on the side of the road with an autozone one. It was overheating again before I even got the 20 miles home. Needless to say, OEM from then on.

So it's there for transport and it can be removed? That's what it sounds like you're saying, but looking at the belt and using my own brain instead of somebody elses judgement I would say that little thing is more or less cheap insurance. I would say removal is a personal call. A good indication it's not necessary is it's not on earlier models.

Yeah those EA82s handle way better than any Outback. My Outback handled like trash until I put some new struts and king springs on it, then it was just alright. Still wasn't very well balanced though.

Brake booster is connected and clamped. As for engine crustiness, you should have seen it before we CLEANED IT UP hahaha. It's very clean compared to what it was before. The engine that came out was TOTALLY caked. Will try WD40 tomorrow and swap the vacuum advance to the carb. I'm really too broke to own an old Subaru right now, I can't afford anything for it. Base gasket is still there, we coated it in Ultra Grey when we re-installed. I'll try the TDC trick... I thought about trying that but wasn't sure how easy it was to eyeball the piston to find TDC. Hell, the timing could be the root of my problems for all I know. Thanks for the input.

Ok started it today, no difference. Sprayed as many places as I could think with brake cleaner and as usual, can't find the leak. Here's some pics...

I know I know... the beard is awesome.

I think I ran into the problem you're having and it was because I got the left and right tophats on the wrong struts. There's a difference...

My EA71 (now hydro EA81) '84 DL would SCREAM. That engine was MADE for driving like a madman. A friend of mine was behind me on his motorcycle and I dropped it from 5th doing about 50 to 3rd and PUNCHED it... when we got to his house he said "Good lord man, that thing was SCREAMING! Better be careful, I blew a Honda up driving like that..." I drove it like that EVERY single day. I don't have a tach though, I'd love to know what RPMs I was running going that fast. I'd say I run about 3000 in 5th at 60, so 3rd at 50-60mph... 6 grand?? Anyway, I love driving these older roos like that. EA82, EA81, EA71, any EA really loves to be wound out. My EJ22 Outback wasn't nearly as fun to wind out. Just didn't sound anywhere near as good and that rev limiter really sucks. Guess they're not designed to do that like the older ones.

Alright was forced to use cardboard intake gaskets coated in a fairly thin layer of ultra grey. Made sure both surfaces were clean and flat... so we should be good to go. Tomorrow, I'll let you guys know how it runs. Please wish me luck, pray for me, cross your fingers, do a mana... whatever. I want this car back on the road!!!

Yeah it's always sad to see an old friend go away... I had a '96 Outback with King springs that I wrecked. All I could do was instantly accept that it was gone forever and move on to better things, like my '84 coupe!!! Not exactly "bigger", but in alot of ways better. Let your heart guide you... I let my brain talk me into getting the Outback which was a great car, but nothing like the older gen roos. I'm happier with my coupe, even if it is giving me fits.:-p

After removing the intake, I'm pretty darn sure using Ultra Grey for intake gaskets isn't worth a crap. As soon as I can get a ride the 40 miles to the nearest Subaru dealership, I'm getting proper equipment.

Well hell I heard knocking earlier, definitely must have been spark knock. I can't hear much from the engine because the exhaust is pretty loud. I'm just going to spfi, from the sounds of it I have the carb set up like yours... I'm definitely NOT wanting to hurt this engine. It needs to last me a while.

So.... how do I fix that? Got any pics of a carb that has that done?? And running lean like it might be, should it still be using ALOT of gas? my GUESS is I'm getting mid teens. And should I be driving it like it is? I HAVE to drive it but I don't want to do any real damage... I haven't been driving much being that it smells so putrid it burns my throat and takes at least an hour for the burn to go away...

Thank you very much!!!!

Darn I was hoping that metal tube was my problem... it goes from the intake to that cylinder so I assumed it was acting as a vacuum leak. Thought since the big EGR tube was blocked off maybe somehow that was causing it to be a problem. Anyway, it's blocked off now and the tube is gone. I've sprayed all over the place with brake cleaner with no luck. I'm pulling the motor tomorrow to put the right flywheel on so I can properly time it. I don't think the timing is the cause of the stumbling because no matter how you adjust the disty it stumbles, even if it feels like it's in the right place. I've got the mixture screw turned out 3 turns. Seems that's a good place to leave it until I get this all figured out. If I can't get this straightened out I'm gonna have to get a job and ride my bike to work!!! Also, we used Ultra Grey for the intake instead of intake gaskets. Is that ok? I've noticed it feels like one cylinder has liquid in it when cranking after it's been sitting overnight. If you start it after it's been ran it doesn't "chug" on any of the cylinders. Maybe coolant is leaking into the combustion chamber cuz the ultra grey ain't enough? Man I can't wait to SPFI this thing.

I would post pics but I don't have my camera. I see 2 nipples sticking out the front of the carb that appear to be the same size when I pulled the caps off. According to GD you don't need the ACV anyway... And does the metal line from the passenger head to the intake need to be plugged off? It's still hooked up, but the big rubber hose coming off the side of the EGR is plugged.

It now has a regular non-feedback EA81 carb on it. EA82 coupes have longer front ends than regular EA82 sedans and wagons. That's what he meant. He has a touring wagon and has always insisted it was longer which I always knew was crap. So I guess I need to go pull the car uphill and get the air out... like I thought to begin with but he insisted it wasn't necessary. So you think it actually got hot?

So I drove it today, used alot of gas, and I noticed the engine was making boiling noises (assuming it's coolant), yet the temp gauge never really got above halfway. Is that possible? The guy who helped me said we didn't have to park it on a hill like an EA82 to get all the air out. Starting to think the dude was full of crap... He always told me touring wagons were longer than regular wagons (which is complete crap) and that the EA82 coupes had a longer front end than regular coupes. Is this guy delusional?