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Subaru_dude

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Everything posted by Subaru_dude

  1. Golly bob that's alot of sugar sitting on your dash lol. Yeah I could see it being cumbersome with a BUCKET of high fructose corn syrup sitting in front of the shifter... I'd question whether the cupholder would hold up or not!!!
  2. I'm an idiot. The power steering pump and hoses are RIGHT THERE in the picture.. I just assumed it had manual steering cuz mine did.
  3. Not entirely true... That's just as good of a place as the placement in the 2nd gen Legacy and first gen Impreza. With a cup you can't see the radio and can't get to the heater controls. At least in the GL he can get to the heater controls. He's in third gear too, plenty of room even with a cup.
  4. I had a car identical to that at one point, was even from Washington state. Glad to see it's getting work done to it to assure it'll be on the road for some time. I'm guessing no power steering? I prefer manual steering sometimes. It'd be an easy enough swap if you changed your mind though. You've got access to all kinds of parts in your part of the country. Keep us updated if you get more progress done.
  5. I totally think I have a vacuum leak somewhere, but for the life of me I can't find it. I've sprayed and sprayed and sprayed, and nothing. Yes the canister is gone. I'll try to get some pics tomorrow. I have to pull the motor Friday anyway because I used an Ea82 flywheel and can't set the timing. Had to go by ear...
  6. I swapped it out for an EA81 non-feedback. On the feedback there's a couple extra hose connections. It runs now but still with high idle. We disengaged the vacuum to the choke and blocked off the nipple on the intake, it just idles really high. The small screw at the bottom of the carb literally does nothing. You can turn it all the way in and drive it, drives ok except for it can pull itself right along cuz the idle is so high. Turn it all the way out, no difference. You can pull back on the linkage while the idle screw isn't touching, doesn't do anything. This is really weird.... it is driveable though, it'll get me the 60 miles back home I'm sure. After that... maybe Weber? Or SPFI.
  7. The one thing I can't find is which screws do which... GD in a writeup speaks of the screw behind the pin at the bottom front of the carb. I guess it's the idle mixture screw, that's what he refers to it as. I turned it all the way to the right and then back out 2.5 turns and it does indeed run. The idle is a little high (was running 2500 warm but after cooling now running 1200, haven't gotten it warm again) and I can't seem to find in any of my searches where the idle adjust screw is? I found the screw that presses against the linkage to hold the idle up but it's not even touching the linkage and there's also slack in the throttle cable. Are these the only 2 screws I need to play with? I thought there was a mixture/air screw too but doesn't seem to be the case. This carb was de-emissioned, it ran OK before but had intermittent high idle issues. It is a feedback carb that was on an EA71 and is now on an EA81. I thought the carbs themselves were the same as the normal EA81 carbs except for all the extra hoses on the outside of it. Figured getting rid of all that stuff wouldn't hurt anything. The feedback computer is unplugged. Also, there's a metal line that comes out of the exhaust behind the trans and runs into a rubber line that runs up next to the trans to a big black UFO looking thing, and that hooked into the air cleaner. I just have that plugged off now. Anybody know if the EA71 feedback carb is any different from the plain jane carbs on the EA81s? My feedback is indeed a 2 barrel Hitachi.
  8. Once you get that timing belt changed, check for vacuum leaks by spraying brake cleaner at the small rubber hoses around the intake. Especially the joints and where they slide onto nipples and such. I had a '93 Loyale that ran like CRAP even after doing a tune-up, timing belts etc and it turned out to be a broken vacuum hose.
  9. Actually I think I should have worded that differently... I wish FWD was optional on the Impreza and Legacy models. Some people seem to think "I don't need AWD so Subaru is completely out of the question". But then again, with that mindset they don't deserve a Subaru. :cool:
  10. I kinda wish they'd make the AWD an option on regular Legacys and Imprezas, that'd be at least a couple more mpg. Outbacks, Tribecas and Foresters should keep AWD standard imho.
  11. $450,000 according to another vid I watched. I would take that over anything else that costs that much.
  12. I'm waiting on the harness. I keep turning in applications but not getting calls. Sometime around oct. 15th I'm swapping in the EA81 and just using an EA82 carb that's in good shape. We'll see how I like it.
  13. HAHAHAHA yeah it does sorda look like that doesn't it haha!!!!!!!!
  14. The 4th of July... Me deadlifting it... And btw yes it does have the EA71 and I have a hydro lifter EA81 to go into it. I just need a little cash to reseal it... and if I had enough I'd really rather do the weber swap, I love the sound of a nice carb rumbling under the hood...
  15. It's easy to tell you're not from the south. It's ya'lls, NOT you'alls
  16. Well if you're doing just an ob lift with the ob body blocks, I'm sure the brake lines will be ok but I'm not sure about the steering shaft. Might have to get one from an ob but I actually haven't ever body lifted one so I'm not for sure. You could get a d/r imported for it but that's a bit pricey, and the low range for the ej cars is... really only good for taking off up a steep road from a dead stop in the city, no real crawl capabilities like the older EA82 d/r 5spds. But I think you could get the d/r from the older trans machined to fit into the ej d/r box. That'll make a great all-weather, rough road car. The king springs will help with ride height, I had a '96 Outback with kings, think I got 1 3/4" in the front and 2" in the rear with the 3/4" spacers. Could really load it down with wood and it wouldn't squat like it did before. The Outbacks DO come with a 4.11 final drive, which does make a difference offroad. My Outback with the stock size tires could do everything my 5spd d/r could do. Your Legacy is probably a 3.9 final drive.
  17. Cuz it would be cheaper for me to do the spfi swap, a friend of mine has everything I'll need except for a wiring harness. He'll give it to me for a set of Calmasters I've got. And I think the spfi will do better in colder weather... not that it gets that cold here. Hopefully he'll help me take care of the rust too.
  18. Well I was running around like a banschee today and didn't get the cam out to get a pic so maybe tomorrow depending... gotta fix a friends broke down mitsubishi galant.
  19. I've replaced both headlights with the upgraded kind that only needs the bulb replaced, and found some thule gutter mounts so now it has crossbars too. Will post pics tomorrow, it's gonna be a beautiful day. Oh, and I now have an EA81 to go in it with hydro lifters but am still looking for spfi wiring harness. I also have to change the fuel filter, it was barely running today.
  20. http://www.amazon.com/Dodge-Challenger-2008-2011-Button-SWITCH/dp/B005F5LM3O/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_7 I would love to have push button start and this is CHEAP. But on newer cars do they only work if you have a key fob with you? I'm on a super cheap budget and it seems my ignition switch is wearing out... was also thinking I could just take the ignition out and touch the actual wires together (hotwire it) if it gets too bad. It's an '84 2wd DL coupe. Spank you very much.
  21. The Bumble Beast is looking awesome man!!! Saw all the bodywork you did and all that rust you got rid of that you didn't know was there. Nice job, this car will be around a very long time if you keep the mantainance up like you have been. Being such a bright color, I'd say it's hard for people to miss making it less likely to be hit in an accident too.
  22. Absolute easiest thing for you would be to go with either an EA82 or EA81. The EA81 is a little lighter, is a pushrod engine so there's no timing belts, notoriously reliable and the intake, exhaust, and trans will bolt right up to the engine. You'll have to run a little wiring to the disty because it's at the front of the motor and I think you may have to take it to a machine shop and have the EA81 disty gear welded to the bottom of the EA82 disty. Don't quote me on the disty part, there's a write-up GD did on the swap. You can google it to find it. An EA81 with hydro lifters ('85-'89 all had hydro lifters, '80-'84 had hydro lifters in automatics only) might be hard to come by where you're at, I don't know. You could probably find one around here for a couple hundred shipped. I'm not a fan whatsoever of the EA82 but they're really not bad engines. If you're pretty good with engines, you could swap the SPFI pistons out of your EA82 into an EA81 block for higher compression.
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