Subaru_dude

i've been looking for that band for a very long time, lol.

Your car will be alittle more sluggish, cause those are stock settings well... it could barely move, lol. i can't damage the engine if i run it too advance can i? cuz i tried it a few more times with the gun and just can't get things right... but if i set it by ear, it seems ok. if i retard it anymore, it idles rough... so i'm gonna leave it right there.

I think you should buy another hatch and keep that one as a parts car cuz your car sounds like it's ROTTEN.

that pathetic excuse for... I don't know what... pulling MY car out of a HOLE??? dream on. lol.

a while back i did timing belts... and did them according to the usrm. a few days ago i decide to fine tune my timing... so I go out there with my timing light... hook it up, follow the directions which say to unhook the disty advance and plug the line, and set the little dial to the desired atdc. 8 deg for carbed... so I set it to that, and it says to turn the disty until the little light flashing thing is seeing 0. is that right? I have a feeling I'm not following the directions correctly cuz when I took it for a drive, it had NO power. idled smoother though. but anywayzz... it's an advance timing light. little dial on the back, 0-60. what do I set it to and what is supposed to show up on the flywheel? 0 right? thanks guys. -Jordan

wheel bearings would probably last a couple hundred thousand right? past that they either need to be regreased, or better yet just replaced. I'd say a fuel pump would last about as long as well. my dad had an ea82 gl with 300,000 on it, and he bought it with 55,000 and the fuel pump still worked fine as far as we could tell.

of course you'd think it's crazy, you drive a Justy.

oooh i've got plenty of power... can smoke the tires if i wanna, just doesn't run very smoothly and sounds like it wants to knock.

everything anybody's told me and everything i read says to run it off the manifold off an ea82. is that why my car doesn't ever seem to run right no matter what??

noo.... i can't record it.... it just makes a sort of crackling noise. and i don't have an oil pressure gauge cuz the top of the sending unit got broken off during removal... bought one from a junkyard and lost the freaking thing.... need to go buy another one.

okay... i think i've tracked it down... at idle it sounds like about every 2 or 3 turns of the engine you hear this "scratch" noise... and I THINK it's coming from the oil pump... and I had a friend rev the engine and yeah, it sounds like it gets worse with revvs. oil pump about to fail?? why didn't I put a new one in while I had the motor out.

guessing cuz i've never really seen one in action. much better articulation i take it.

OK, OK... ENOUGH WITH THE GD F***** CUSSIN. lol.. i personally agree with you. too much extra weight and you have to argue whether or not it's a subaru frame alot more frequently with solid axles.

hmmm..... i thought it was a solid rear axle at first but now that i take a closer look at it, it might not be.

whose is that?

when i hit 5,000 rpm... i start hearing a crackling noise coming from the engine compartment and it continues and worsens however high i go with the rpms. i thought maybe my coin inbetween the block and asv pipe was becomming loose so i slipped a piece of well folded aluminum foil in there and removed the coin but the noise is still there. if i stand outside the car with the hood up and rev it... i hear it but i just can't pinpoint the darn noise. anybody have any ideas?? vroooommm... CRACKLE CRACKLE CRACKLE. sounds like something eletrical freakin out, but somehow I don't think that's what it is. thanks. -Jordan

wait... do they make d/r autos??

that soob sounds alot healthier than mine... lol. you speak of getting your coins to rattle... my engine sounds like it has a roll of pennies in it somewhere. haha.

carbed '87 gl, d/r 5 speed, 165,000 miles... still needs the timing adjusted... it's a little retarded. 26 around town, about 30 on the highway. before i retarded the timing... i was getting 30 around town and 36ish on the highway.

yeah, i was thinkin it wouldn't be possible in a soob... just cuzza the axles, I'm pretty sure something would break. BUT... do you think an auto might be better in that situation? you wouldn't really have a clutch to burn up. instead you have an entire transmission to destroy!!! oh yeah, this brings up an old subject. there was a new design of cv joint brought up on this board that was alot stronger than the current, most common design of cv joints. you could get them custom made for anything, but you had to be ready to ration your $10 a week cuz that's all you would have left, lol. let's say you manage to afford these custom cv joints, 6" lift, divorced t-case, 2.2, or maybe ditch the divorced t-case if my theory on autos is right (actually it's somebody elses theory but whatever), and lock up the rear, and maybe limited slip the front..... cuz all 4 locked would be such a horrible ride, lol. maybe after all that $$ and time it could be possible?? we can only dream. i guarantee you somebody will tackle it with nothing but a lift and welded rear and climb outta there no problem, lol.

or just get a winch, lol.

IMO... I really don't think the soobs low range is low enough, but I really don't have much experience in how steep of a grade a soob can climb.

too chicken to admit a soob can't do it? haha... j/k. anybody??

just saw some impressive video of a jeep going in the bellybutton at moab, then seeming stuck, and magically driving out. anybody ever had their soob in that freakin thing? if not, I'm gonna make it a goal to be the first.

that's something i can't decide... i don't know how much i'm gonna offroad. i know with a lift, i'm gonna wanna do it all the time... but i'm developing some rust on the underside of my car and it's basically hopeless to try to fix it... I guess you could say it has cancer. I just plan on driving this one till it falls apart, and when it does take the lift off and put it on something else:grin: man i want a hatch so bad, lol.