Subaru_dude

that is an anti backfire valve. it's annoying, part of the egr setup i believe. I have a brand new one laying around. it was $150 dollars. It was only on my car a month until I just decided to de emission my wag. you want it? pm me if you do.

ok, tired of hitachi carb. Great running EA82, don't really wanna get rid of it. I would like a Weber... but a Weber is around $350? I could get another Fuel injected soob for about $400 and do a conversion. BUT... there's always the possability of EJ22. My EA82 runs great... so I could always keep it as a spare engine. I could find a good EJ22 for $400. so... I have 3 choices, all the same price. A carb swap would take no time, a fuel injection swap would take a while, and an EJ22 swap... I don't even know. I don't really wanna get rid of the EA82, just put some money into resealing it. BUT... if you guys think the EJ22 is worth ditching a perfectly fine EA82 (minus the carb) then I'll do it. p.s... which one's better for redlineing on a daily basis? lol. thanks for your informative opinions. -Jordan

'87 gl d/r 4wd ea82 carbed wagon. can't seem to get the timing just right... runs just fine and has plenty of power and all that, but has a constant vibration that goes with engine speed. and I don't think i't's the clutch being off center, it had 2 rivets on one side of it and i put them completely opposite of the 0 mark on the flywheel. it also makes clunking noises from the front end when the wheel is turned almost full lock in either direction. does it mostly while i'm moving. do you think maybe i didn't get the castle nuts tight enough on the end of the axle stud? or did I damage the doj? i just tightened the castle nuts until I could see the hole to put the cotter pin in just fine. and there's also this strange "click click click" that SOUNDS like it's coming from the exhaust... and it's steady with engine speed. once every 1 or 2 seconds at idle. maybe it's more of a "puff puff puff??" somewhere between a click and a puff... well, more like a metalic sound actually... couldn't be due to an exhaust leak could it? and does an exhaust leak cause it to smoke alot? cuz I can't tell where in the heck the smoke is coming from... and how clean should the exhaust and head surfaces be when I swap out exhaust manifold gaskets? the ones that are on it are new, but don't you have to buy new ones if you take the exhaust apart? i'm thinking about just taking it to a shop and letting them perform the finishing touches. thanks for any help guys. sorry for such a long post... lol. -Jordan

either way, drive it and it will be fine, just turn the music up. you'd be amazed at how may things that fixes.

I don't think so. the axles are different I believe. spline count... can't remember what the count is exactly but i do think it's different.

i just put my engine in, the front mounts are bolted down, it's firmly anchored to the tranny. my exhaust is sitting about a quarter inch back... why is that? it certainly seemed to fit when I disconnected the y-pipe from the engine. tried having my dad push on the muffler tip, and pulling on the y-pipe at the same time with little results. I never even took the exhaust off the car. any ideas? -jordan

I finally got my motor in!! new clutch cable, headgaskets, complete reseal, de-emmissioning, new clutch, and... rear disc conversion... and all new axles and a new rear diff. for some reason, I didn't notice till just today how rotted the undercarriage is. looks like the frame is "cracking." don't think it's gonna last much longer... probably shouldn't have put all this money into it. I still gotta do some hose organizing, and put the new radiator in and it's done. ooh yeah... anybody got pics of a soob that's rotted to the point that it shouldn't be driven anymore? mine's getting pretty close to that point I think, lol. -Jordan

if you live in a very snowy area, it's probably be a better idea to get a Subaru. they're awd system is superior to Toyota. Toyotas are great vehicles, and it sounds to me like it's just his cup of tea. If he doesn't drive around in fields and mud, and he doesn't jump traintracks, or tow other vehicles out of ditches, then a yota's alright. Subarus are made for that kinda stuff. I've personally seen an '87 subie wagon with 570,000 miles on the original engine and as far as I know, it's still some old ladies daily driver.

^ what he said

there's plenty of people that don't have them... and as long as you don't leave nuts in them, that won't happen.. lol. if your subie has the splash guards like the 4wd should have, there shouldn't be much of a chance of any gravel bouncing up around the timing belts.

what kinda gas mileage does that thing get? I might have a chance to buy one in about the same condition as yours for $500.

yeah, that helps. I think mine comes out the front sorda pointing downwards and wraps around to the passenger side. I guess we'll see when it's all done and I start it and fuel spurts everywhere, lol. thanks for the help guys.

hitachi. is the other one towards the front of the carb? there seems to be a few large "barbs."

I found one of the lines coming out of the driver side of the carb. where's the other one? i found some pics of a de-emissioned carb, but they're not all that clear.

the engine is outta the car. barb?? YOU LOST ME. lol.

umm... check your fuel pump. turn the key on without starting the car and listen for a very slight humming towards the back of your car. if you get under the rear of your car you will see a white shot glass size fuel filter near the right rear wheel. Change that, it's only about 4-5 bucks anyway. the box you will see in front of that on the same platform is the fuel pump. near it, you will see it's electrical hookup. unplug it and spray some WD-40 in there and clean it out and reconnect it. if that doesn't work, then just try a basic tune-up. plugs, wires, air filter, oil change, all that stuff. if you haven't in a while it's a good idea anyhow. -jordan

where exactly are the fuel return and supply lines on the carb? i did a search, couldn't find squat. i'm de-emissioning my carb cuz there's too much junk in there... so that's all i need on the carb right? thanks guys, should get my roo running soon THANKS TO YOU ALL!!!!! -jordo

ok... nvm, i remembed doing my rears and thought i was remembering doing my fronts. i was about to freak out, lol.

wait a sec... that only applies to the loyale's and not the gl's, right??

yay, i figured it out! MATCH UP THE LETTERS!!!!! SO EASY!!!! I FEEL SO STUPID!!!! haha.

sounds like a damn good plan.

Give me your RX.

okay, I've narrowed it down to needing to know what all the little sensors and stuff actually look like cuz I can't relate the ones on the paper to the ones on the intake manifold. p.s. i'm using a chilton's manual

can somebody explain what all the little letters mean in the vacuum diagrams? and there's just alot I don't understand about them, they don't seem to match up with the actual manifold I guess? those little letters are getting on my nerves, lol. thanks guys. -Jordan

anything that has anything to do with vacuum hoses, lol.