Subaru_dude

that helps... i needed that. man, that crap confuses the heck outta me, lol.

poopstain on the diagrams. they confusing. PICTURES WOULD HELP ME TOO. WE WANT PICS! WE WANT PICS!!

i'm new to this retorque thing, sounds like something I don't wanna do.... lol.

i noticed that when I went back downstairs and tried to put it back on, lol. thanks man.... what kinda beer do ya like? -jordan

did a search, but didn't find much... in the chilton book it says to align the 0 marks on the flywheel and the pressure plate. I found the mark on the flywheel, but for the life of me I CAN'T FIND IT ON THE PRESSURE PLATE. I bought it at O'Reilly's but there is no 0 mark. there is a very small, blue mark but it looks nothing like a mark there was meant to be there. There are 2 "rivets" on one side of the pressure plate though. is that the 0 mark? need to get this clutch in tonight. thanks.... gonna go buy beer soon being that I'm now 21, first person to responds gets a prize, GUESS WHAT IT IS. lol.... thanks guys. -Jordan

I don't think I could do this swap cuz even with the stock seats leaned back a little, my head almost touches the ceiling...

6 months ago, i didn't know jack squat about cars. i replaced a clutch, resealed, 4 new shocks struts, swaybars, new timing belts, and replaced both front axles and bearings in my car and I had no idea what I was doing, lol. I rolled it outside, FINALLY, yesterday and I just need to put the intake manifold on the engine and put it back in the car and I can finally enjoy all those things that make a Subaru a Subaru. like running over Hondas and stuff, lol.

I may be at work, but that doesn't mean I'm not gonna cry.

yeah, what's up with the headgaskets? i'm still not clear and why the newer ones blow so many.

alrighty, i'll just cut the rest of it off. from my experience the plates just trap stuff between the rotor and the plate itself and makes annoying noises. just got done getting the rear end together, pushing the car outside, putting the hood on it, and cleaning up in the basement. found 21 broken bolt heads, haha.

how important are the backing plates on the rear discs on an EA82?? I wanted to remove mine but when I looked up the conversion it said that was one of the things you need to do the conversion. Mine's so rusted I worry about it lasting more than a year... and I would like to just remove it. Does it act as a spacer or something? and if it does can't I just put spacers in to make up for the gap left by the lack of the plate? thanks anyone who replies. -jordan

guess what time it is guys. DUMB QUESTION TIME!!!!!! what exactly is re-torqueing? thanks for being patient with the fairly-noobs.

go big.

well... investing in tools is a good thing really. especially with the older soobs, it's always good to have some around. all you really need is a good ratchet, I find that 3/8 drive is a good size, and a good metric socket set. the more specialized stuff can be borrowed from autozone or some other parts stores. I don't think they can be done while in the car, there's not enough clearance for the head bolts. the removal of the engine isn't that difficult actually. just be sure to use a cherry picker to lift it out cuz it's a heavy SOB, believe me... lol. If you decide to go through with it, you won't regret it cuz the experience is well worth it. And unless your tranny and engine are very VERY stuck because of corrosion caused by salt, removal of the motor shouldn't be a prob. -jordan

hey sarge, just wanted to say hey from Morristown. hopefully when and if i get an rx... i can lift my wagon and make it the ultimate offroad roo, lol. I wish.

did you guys forget it's a Subaru? it probably decided that stretch of road belonged to it and decided to mark it. lol... j/k. you should very thoroughly inspect it and try to find out exactly where all that oil came from. I don't have much experience with cars, that's the only advice I can give. I think, using my vast intellect, that it will happen again and this time not fix itself. that's what i think. it's late, i need sleep. -jordan

I had no idea a such tool existed... but I really want one too, lol.

yeah, it's from Vermont and everything's stuck. I wish I would have known better before I bought it... lol.

I got an '87 GL 5spd d/r and I got the engine out of it, need to put the intake manifold on it but don't know where the hoses go, need to put the diff in, axles, rear discs on... need to get the bracket thingy that bolts to the top of the diff that holds it to the bottom of the car, and I think that's about it. and I got a clutch, haven't put it on the engine yet. i'm basically just tired of working on it and will either pay somebody to do it for me or help me out with it. I like the car, but I don't know how much longer I can keep it in the basement... my parents really want it out and so do I but it makes me sick to even look at it, lol. thanks to anybody who responds. I'm sorda desperate, so please do.

I think that's what i'm gonna do with my $100 project car.

with bigger tires, doesn't it effect your low range in a negative way because you can't crawl quite as slow as you could with smaller tires? or is this point not discussed because the lift affords so much more capability?

alrighty!! will do. I've got PLENTY of JB weld standing by... lol. thanks alot guys.

oh yeah.... and I used an M10 1.5...and i'm gonna have to drill it out again to put another helicoil in... what size bit should i use to drill the hole out? i'm so tired of screwing up... lol well actually, it'd be nice to do any type of screwing right now cuz I NEED TO GET THIS THING OUTTA HERE BEFORE I FEEL LIKE I'M

i took off an idler pulley to the timing belt... next to the oil pump.... to take off a piece of timing belt cover. torqued it down... probably to about 20 pounds when it got really easy to turn all of a sudden. stripped out the hole... so I drilled it out to put a heilicore in it... but when I tried to rethread it, the drill got stuck and it burned up, so I had to use a wrench to remove the bit. So I put the core in it... and start threading the bolt in with the timing belt gear on it. It gets stuck, I take it out and the threads are pulled off the bolt. AND I apparently drilled the hole crooked? didn't know I was that dumb... lol. I'm pretty darn sure I didn't cross thread it... should I drill it bigger and try again? there doesn't seem to be a whole lot of aluminum left over from last time though, that's the only problem. Could I take it to a welder and have him weld a stud in it's place? I don't wanna do that, but that's what I"m leaning towards. Thanks to anybody who has any advice.

no... there's not supposed to be rubber on top. That's just there to stop it from completely crushing the rubber in the case of extreme tension.