Subaru_dude

What do you mean by spare wheels? If you mean the donuts, you can't put a normal size tire on a donut because it's WAY to narrow.

I decided that I'd go with 15" wheels, and I like the look of these trailer wheels. http://ecustomhitch.com/i-10782365-2-boat-trailer-rims-wheels-15-15x6-6-lug-hole-bolt-black-spoke.html?gclid=CIq5--vjxbwCFeJF7Aod7V8AxA I plan to redrill to a 6 lug and am mounting 185/65/15 wheels. My only question is about offset. I've seen some pics of lifted rigs with trailer wheels and the tire seems to sit directly under the lip of the fender. Will that be an issue with a car riding at stock height? I routinely carry quite a bit of weight in the car and don't want any rubbing going on. However, I COULD adjust the rear torsion bars to raise it up a bit I suppose.

I see you live in a place that gets snow... I was going to suggest pulling the front axles and driving it in 4wd but you probably want the ability to get around when conditions are bad. As others have said, there's better quality axles out there and if you can't go that route I would at least pull the boots off and re-grease, as well as better quality boots. I just did axles in my 2wd '84 hardtop and I couldn't believe the shimmy in the steering wheel and lurching while turning I was getting after installing them. They've smoothed out, but they still pop when the wheel is cut deep and I'm accelerating. Sometimes they even pop going on a freaking straight line. Aftermarket CRAP.

Just took a 900 mile road trip and my rear tire went flat on the interstate. I noticed the inner edge of the tire was worn almost to the wire. I had the car loaded down with maybe a few hundred pounds of stuff, but I've noticed before that the right rear of the car sags a little even when it's empty. The rear shocks are both new. I haven't gotten around to jacking it up and having a look, I've just been too busy. THE WHEEL BEARINGS ARE GOOD. I jacked it up, grabbed it and jerked around on it... nice and tight and it turns freely and quietly. So my question is, what are the "common" causes of rear alighment issues with these cars? I know that it being a trailing arm design the arm could twist over time, and also it could be a worn bushing but a friend of mine who had a 2wd hatch said his was the same way. Right rear was saggy, just like mine. Thanks for any input.

Sounds like the clutch is not completely disengaging.

Pulled the valve cover off about fifteen minutes after driving... that crap is DRY. Doesn't look like there's been any oil in there for a while. So... where is this check valve I hear about? I can't get my head in there to see anything really. Engine is still in car.

Ok replaced the alternator and the noise is still there. Sounds kinda like there's a marble in the driver side valve train now... but from what I've read the EA81 hydraulic lifters can be pretty noisy for various reasons, but not the same reasons EA82 valves become noisy. I will try cleaning the check valve, and having a look inside tomorrow and updating. One last question, will it hurt it to drive it making so much noise? I need this piece to drive me 450 miles on Sunday.

I hate reading posts about people driving part time four wheel drive vehicles on pavement while in 4wd.... anywayzz should be an easy enough part to find. And cheap.

If it took 30 years for the originals to rust to the point they were not reusable, I would think it would be alright to glue 'em in there real good.... mine just keep on coming out and I've got the red thread locker on them. I used the double nut method but it's still no good. And if rust IS a concern, coating it in grease after installation should be just fine. And the reason I can't use a lock washer is because I drilled out the stud holes and re-threaded them about a year ago and used larger studs in place and there's no room between the stud and the exhaust shield to fit a lock washer.

Toyota and Datsun had a damn good mpfi system in the early 80s, it took Subaru until 1990 to come up with a comparable fuel injection system. I hold Subaru accountable for that.

Oh my God, cars this slow should be getting 40+ mpg. What the hell gives?? What's the point of making cars so damn slow?????

I did the upgrade today too. Note: You cannot use the alternator nut for the Maxima, you have to use the Subaru nut. Also you might want to look up how to remove the plastic plug from the spade connectors. I literally had to cut mine off, so I won't be reinstalling the stock alternator anytime soon. Another note, not sure how much it matters but I could NOT get that spacer completely flat. I used a belt sander and got it a pretty consistent 5/16ths all the way around but it's still pretty wobbly, but that could also be due to the fact that the pulley has some play on the shaft and it's nearly impossible to hold it center while you're hitting it with an impact.

Is that a manual transmission car? And we've had a '96 Legacy sedan (mechanically the same as a '96 Outback with a manual trans [manual trans Outback comes with the same 2.2 engine as the regular Legacy instead of the 2.5 the automatic Outbacks got in '96]), and a '96 Outback and the alternators have gone out on both. Every Subaru I've ever had as a matter of fact has always needed an alternator at some point. I've had like ten....

^Hmmm hadn't thought about that, I'll check into that too but I'm pretty sure the fans aren't kicking on until the temp gauge at least reaches a little over halfway. The temp is typically right below the marker.

It sounds a little more substantial than the typical exhaust baffle, and it's coming from under the hood for sure. In other news, got the correct size idle jet in the mail today. Installed it, retimed it to 8deg btdc, and followed the proper procedures for adjusting the fuel mixture. Runs like it did at 20deg btdc with a rich mixture. LIKE A RAPED APE. I'm happy now, and I'll be even happier when I get my heater hoses replaced and replace my alternator. I'll be ecstatic if that darn clattering is the alternator I'm about to replace with the Maxima alt.

Some of you are misunderstanding his question for some reason. It plainly states he is referring to the STUDS and where they thread into the HEADS. I used the red threadlock on mine and have only put a few hundred miles on it. Then I used the blue threadlock for the nuts. The lockwashers I found wouldn't fit between the exhaust and the stud itself so that's what I did. I'll report back on how it holds up.

My definition of clattering must differ because from what I've heard on youtube vids, pre-detonation sounds like a clattering noise to me (unless pinging is different). HOWEVER, I believe the noise might be my alternator. There's a very slight amount of play when I pull outwards on the pully without the belt on it and when I tightened my belt, it started making quite a bit more noise.

This really is good advice, but I'm just going to be lazy and dial it in at 15 and say the hell with it. If it cuts it's lifespan down, oh freakin well. It's gotten me around for a couple of years, it's about ready to be retired anyway.

I plan on replacing my heater core hoses as they are pretty rotten, I'll be sure I pull up onto a nice steep hill and get ALL of the air out. It appears my alternator is what has been making all that racket. Removed my belt to double check the alt and water pump and it had a tiny bit of play in and out. Replaced the belt and got it good and tight because it was a little loose before, and the clattering is worse than ever. I am concerned about how that air pocket got in there, it happened right after it dipped down to zero degrees and slushed my coolant. Hope it didn't hurt the headgaskets... And yes I dialed the timing to 10deg btdc and it's pretty darn gutless and lurches while accelerating. Think I'll advance it some more....

The clatter has been there a while, and with a Weber it is recommended that you run 15-20. And the coolant is one gallon coolant, one gallon water and then topped off the rest of the way with coolant. It shouldn't ever get that cold again (hopefully) so I won't worry about it. "It happens after driving for ten miles or so on the interstate at high rpms," I think I'll pass on removing the belt and driving down the interstate for ten miles to see if the noise is gone. Somehow I don't think I would make it ten miles without a functioning water pump. Edit: After quick search, it appears I'm lucky to have a running engine. 20deg btdc is only for BUILT EA81s....

This is an '84 DL 2wd with a 4 speed trans and a Weberized 1.8 When I first start it in the morning, I hear water rushing through the heater core like it's low on coolant. It started when the temp got below zero, and my coolant turned slushy. It didn't completely freeze, before I started it I checked my makeshift coolant reservoir and the coolant was still pretty liquid, just sorda thick and slushy. When I started it is when I heard the noise for the first time. I let the temperature outside warm up and checked my coolant and it wasn't low. That was about a week ago, checked it again while parked in a parking lot with the nose pointing uphill and it's still full. So... what causes air to magically get into the heater core? I know with EA82s you gotta get them on a really steep hill to get all the air out, do I need to do this with an EA81? I noticed the clattering under the hood the first couple of days after getting my exhaust fixed. It was too loud to hear before, but now it's noticeable. It happens after driving for ten miles or so on the interstate at high rpms, like 4k or so for several miles. To me it sounds exactly like the timing is too advanced, but I've got it set at just about 16deg btdc. It's never gotten hot and the temp gauge has always stayed pretty steady. Today though, going uphill at a little over half throttle at around 4k, my temp gauge jumped up as I was watching it. Didn't jump all the way to the top, just about 3/4 of the way and hung there for about five seconds and jumped back down but not all the way where it usually settles, just a tad above halfway. To me, this sounds like I'm low on coolant. The rest of the way home it didn't settle down just below the halfway mark like it usually does and when I'd give it gas it would get warm quicker. I pulled into a parking lot and got under the hood and revved it up pretty good looking for any leaks, none to be found. No coolant smell either. Not from the exhaust or anywhere under the hood. So, what's the hypothesis? Worst case scenario exhaust gases are escaping the combustion chamber into the coolant right?

I think you're looking at 4wd transmissions. I NEVER have to gear down for mountains anymore, and I've been passed by Honda Civics I could plainly see were doing 60 and my car is screaming. I drive up a "mountain" everyday and with the 5spd I had to gear down to 4th, now I think if I tried to downshift I'd blow a hose or something. Also, my spedometer/odometer does not work and this is a DL with no tach. That's why I have to use the speed of other vehicles for reference, and those newer model Honda civics are a good reference with those huge digital dashes. You could very well be right about the gauge not being accurate I guess, but back when I had the money to fill it to the brim, $41 and some change consistently topped it off from E with gas right at $3/gallon. But one thing is definitely for sure, ever since the 4 speed swap $20 consistently gets me anywhere from 215 to 230 miles. If the gauge wasn't reading accurately and I was getting less mileage, I would think I would run out of gas despite what the gauge says correct?? There would be quite a deficit building up, and I would have hit the Empty wall by now. I was thinking maybe these engines with the Weber prefer higher rpms on the highway? With the 5 speed I was constantly shifting between 4th and 5th gear because the entire 57 miles to work is hilly and curvy, and by my jerry-rigged calculations I was getting 33. Now that I'm running nice high RPMs and I don't have to worry about shifting, I'm getting further to a tank it seems...

I don't remember honestly, I have it written down but it was all pretty much exactly what Redline/Weber calls for except I remember the idle jets were a tad too big. I put $20 in it at the same gas station paying the same amount per gallon and it put me exactly at a half tank again. This gas gauge has always been really accurate, unlike my EJs.

I can tell you directly from experience, that's nowhere near true.

Stopped at the shell yesterday on the way to KY, put $20 in the tank. Drove the 55 miles to Pineville, then drove 57 miles back to the house, and then another 7 miles to and from the Verizon store. Then today drove the 57 miles to Pineville, and then the 55 miles to the shell because I was empty again. That 6.3 gallons of gas got me 231 miles. That's 460 miles to a tank, and that's 36mpg overall. This is unbelievable to me because it now has a four speed transmission so I'm lacking a good highway gear, it runs pretty high rpms on the highway. I also need to readjust my carb slightly, and I need a smaller idle jet. This is an '84 hardtop with a 1.8 and a rebuilt Weber. Most of the time I average about 30 but that's mixed, this was all highway. What the hell should I expect if I drop another 5 speed and throttle body injection?? I'm guessing freaking 40. Is my gas mileage realistic? Am I doing something wrong? I'm using mapquest to figure the distance. I'm having a hard time believing I'm getting that kind of mileage because it doesn't seem to run that great honestly.