Subaru_dude

Well really that won't matter because if he's gonna be in 4wd he'll probably be on snow... if he was driving in 4wd on a surface he was getting pretty good traction on like wet pavement he definitely would want them diagonal so he wasn't binding up the 4wd. We'll leave that up to op....

Yeah not really looking to be cruising around on snow tires..... we don't get snow here.

Pretty sure that would be the starter relay (I think that's the relay...) just behind the starter switch (where you stick the key in). If you turn the key all the way forward like you're trying to start it and wiggle it forward and backward, it should make it easier to start.

Alright guys excellent feedback!!! I'll do some research on whether to drill the hubs or wheels, then off to the jy to find a set of wheels that I like. Thanks a ton!!!!

Did a search but everything I found had to do with lifted rigs. I've got an '84 hardtop with the stock 13s and was looking at some new tires and was shocked that there's not much AT ALL to choose from. I'd like to broaden my horizons by moving up to 14s. Does anybody have any experience with running 14s on a 2wd that rides at the stock height? And if so, what wheels did you go with and why? I don't care a damn bit about looks.

'96 Legacy EJ22 auto. When at partial throttle, it accelerates just fine. Anything past 3/4 throttle and it bogs and won't accelerate. You can hear the growl of the engine through the intake and still sounds smooth, no bucking or backfiring. Just changed the fuel filter. The check engine light is for some emissions thing and has been there since a shop did an engine swap but it ran great for several thousand miles after the swap. Where should I start and what are the most common reasons for hesitation? A search brings up a whole lot of turbo tuning problems... but nothing referring to n/a engines.

I think the Loyales have about 7"-7.5" of clearance at the rear diff??? If you're getting "high centered", your loyale is either lowered or there's more snow than you're saying. ESPECIALLY if your tires aren't even touching the ground like you said, you'd literally have to be in a foot of snow for the suspension to be fully extended. Probably more like a foot and a half because it'll settle with the weight of the car on top of it... You need good tires, and possibly a newer model with VDC and traction control. If you expect a 23 year old econobox to perform even HALF as well as a $40,000 SUV or pickup... then you've got a WHOLE lot to learn. At least you've found yourself in the right place for gathering information...

The hybrid does NOT get 40mpg Mugs... it gets 33 hwy, exact same as the non-hybrid. But it does get 29mpg city, which is a mild improvement over the non-hybrid. And also makes 160hp.

Sorry forgot to mention this is a 2wd.

Just took it for a ride on the interstate. It's geared exactly like a five speed... without fifth gear. Which totally sucks because I work an hour and a half away.... NOT FUN.

And now it's a 4 speed. Just great. What rpms should I expect to run on the interstate? This car will be seeing alot of 70mph...

I've taken it to Oreillys and they couldn't cross reference so I called the other 4 parts stores and they couldn't get it either. I'm not driving all the way to the nearest Subaru dealer just for a pilot bearing. I'm tossing the old clutch back in, the new one slipped in higher gear. Don't have a clue where any bearing suppliers are around here. And it's about 1/8" missing from the outer edge. If it lasts a year, I'll be happy. I just need to ride it until I can afford something newer.

I'm re-using my old pilot bearing because I can't get a replacement locally. I snapped the plastic cover off of one side and cleaned it out with brake cleaner and then stuffed it full of grease. When I was snapping the plastic ring back on, it broke a chunk out of it. Will it lose enough grease for it to make a difference? I really only need the car to last me a year until I can get a newer one. This is an '84 hardtop EA81.

He is not suggesting it is torque bind at all. He's saying you will find the pictures you are looking for by searching torque bind.

Thought this might be important... the passenger side axle pin wouldn't go in so I really pounded on it and only got it halfway through. The hammer was literally just bouncing off the pin. Could that damage the roller bearings in the front diff?? BUMP

I've had 2 other transmissions apart before this one, a 2wd Impreza trans and a 2wd GL trans, same as this one basically. I had it apart to replace the input shaft seal and after filling it up with fluid, getting the motor in and everything ready to go I fired it up and took it for a ride I noticed it was shifting hard and noticed with my hand on the shifter I could feel a high vibration that wasn't there before. I didn't have this experience with the other 2 transmissions I've had apart, they were pretty smooth afterwards. Do I have anything to worry about? Will the whine eventually go away and the shifting smooth out? I adjusted my clutch cable until it grabs towards the top of the clutch movement so I know for sure it's completely disengaging the clutch. For what it's worth, this is the original thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/140724-input-shaft-seal-84-dl-what-else-while-its-apart/ Thanks for any input.

And also the first small bearing on the input shaft has a small hole for a pin and the case of the transmission has a hole for the pin too. I don't know where that pin is, is it really all that important?

Okay just got the seal and it does seem to be the right diameter and fits over the shaft, BUT it's thinner. Doesn't seem to be a problem really but has anybody else had experience with these seals? And it does seem that it was leaking at the flywheel bolts so I will definitely make sure to seal those up.

From what I've read about eyesight, it does adjust cruise control speed based on traffic. As for the nav, I believe it's just fussy with small buttons and a not so well laid out menu screen. Subaru doesn't believe in knowing where you're going, they're all about wandering the road less traveled. You might want to opt out of getting nav and just use something like a TomTom instead. How do you plan to use the car? If you'll be actually using it on rough trails, the Forester has x-mode and also better approach/deproach angles. I've sat in the new Outback and I'm 6'3", VERY roomy and comfortable.

Alright I'm going to give that a shot. Thanks!!!

The clutch is new so I'm ASSUMING it's not because of that. And could you elaborate on the bolts holding the flywheel not having Permatex #2 on them would cause an oil leak? As far as I can tell, the only thing on the back of the motor that can leak oil is the rear main. And the first time the motor was out of the car the input shaft seal was dry but it started leaking immediately after. I guess pulling the engine and moving that input shaft around reamed the seal a little.

Also, any sources for the right input shaft seal? I've got a National 222558 and that's definitely not right. Anybody know if the National 222050 is the right one? That's the one I'm seeing on eBay.

The trans is in good shape and from what I can tell, that's the only place it seems to be leaking. What else leaks on these transmissions? This is a 2wd 5spd. And also, could the leaky input shaft cause the clutch to slip? My clutch slips mostly in higher gear on the highway when I'm RUNNING FAIRLY HIGH RPMS... which is what makes me think the clutch is getting grease slung all over it. Anybody else run into this? Theoretically it makes sense to me. Also, could the axles being bad cause the engine to sorda "lope" along at low speeds? Feels almost like it has a wobble in first, sometimes second gear. Doesn't happen in any of the higher gears, nor when I'm just revving it.

Not sure how a first gen is mounted, but there's a thick bracket attached to the steering column and the key cylinder is mounted to the end of that but facing outwards towards the driver. And yes I had to drill that pin out. Also dropped the column and ripped out the sheet metal plug (kinda looks like a freeze plug) to get rid of the steering wheel lock. For now the pliers are working fine, but I may try to jb weld the little bone shaped piece of metal to the end of a screwdriver and roll with that.

My sister gets 32 highway with her ej22 4eat legacy sedan and my ej22 5spd Outback with street tires could get 31 so that's about right. The 4eat is geared for the highway better.