Rampage

Was there gas in the hoses when you disconnected them from the old pump? I would pull the hose on the inlet to the fuel pump from the fuel tank and stick it in a can of gas and see if it pumps fuel and the engine starts.

Open the right rear door and lower the backs of the rear seat. Lift up the rear carpet and you will see an oval cover. The fuel pump is under that access cover inside the tank. AWD (all wheel drive) vehicles will have a round cover on the drivers side that is for a second float assembly in the tank for the fuel gauge. The fuel tank is called a saddle tank because the bottom is raised up in the center for the driveshaft going to the rear differential. They use a jet pump to siphon gas from the drivers side over to the passenger side where the fuel pump is.

On our 95 Legacy one of the three metal pipes that run up and across the top of the fuel tank began leaking. I replaced them with fuel injection rubber hoses. I did them one at a time so I didn't get them mixed up. Supply, Return and Vapor. It was a little tricky, but I did it without dropping the tank.

Make sure voltage is getting to the fuel pump when you turn the key on or crank the engine, and that it has a good ground.

I have ordered bushings and other stuff from MSC Industrial Supply. https://www.mscdirect.com

To insert those pins, they set into the female end of a 1/4 inch drive extension. And to remove them, my square body drift punches set into a 3/8 drive extension. Makes it real easy.

95 Legacy and up are OBDII. 95 heads are dual exhaust port and hydraulic lifters in the rocker arms and non-interference. 96 heads are single exhaust port and hydraulic lifters in the rocker arms and non-interference. 97 heads are single exhaust port and adjustable rockers and are interference. We have a 95 and 97. I put 95 heads and Y-pipe on the 97. It paid off when the cheap timing belt broke.

Accelerating to 55 mph the engine shut off like turning the key off. It happened three times. The only thing I changed was the knock sensor and the problem went away.

My wife was driving our 95 RHD EJ22 Legacy and the engine shut off. She coasted off the road and it started right up and worked fine. Then a couple days later it did the same thing. After checking everything I could think of, I found a post here that said to check the knock sensor. The housing was cracked. NO codes, but it shut the engine off. Replaced it and no more problems. I would check the timing. I've read other posts here that with one tooth off it ran ok, but did not have the power it should.

This might help a little. Go to www.RockAuto.com Look up different years, model, Suspension, Strut. Pick a brand like KYB Left Front or Right Front (note the part #) and click the INFO button. That will open a new page. On that page scroll down below the pictures and look at the data. Extended, Compressed Lengths and travel. It does not mention the spring perch location from the knuckle mounting points. 96 Legacy, then in the list of struts they list Outback and Legacy separate. Get paper and pen, and write down the info so you can compare. I like RockAuto because you can open as many years and vehicles as you want and scroll between them.

Start at the top. First, I would try a new fuel filter and look at the fuel pressure. Clean or swap the Mass Air Flow Sensor. You can get the FSM here. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/

Made a guess on the sub model and engine. You can start over on that page with the correct vehicle info. How about this. On the image upper right corner, click full sized image. https://www.subarupartwholesale.com/a/Subaru_2020_Legacy-25L-CVT-4WD-Premium-Sedan/78742741__7628338/FRONT-HOOD--FRONT-HOOD-LOCK-FRONT-HOOD--HOOD-LOCK/B16-550-01.html#57251 The rod appears to hinge on the rear of the rod and hooks at the front.

Yep, it's either the head gasket or coming from above like the water pipe that the upper radiator hose connects to. I have never worked on a 25 DOHC, so I don't know the timing covers. Our 95 and 97 are RHD Legacy Wagons with EJ22 4EAT AWD. Question, as the engine warms up does one or both fans run on low speed? I'm asking because our 97 RHD was programed to only run one fan on low speed.

Are the radiator fans running when the engine gets hot? Here is a test that will check the fans but not the temp sensor. Remove the panel under the steering column (two screws). Connect the two Green connectors and turn the IGN Key to ON. You will hear solenoids and relays clicking, then both radiator fans will turn on low speed, then high speed, then off and the cycle will repeat until you turn the key off. Unplug the connectors. The oil filter and water pump are on opposite sides of the engine. If the water pump gasket leaks it will drip below the pump and if the shaft seal leaks the coolant is routed to the rear of the pump away from the timing belt. Sounds like it is time for head gaskets. The fan connectors have a tab you must pry up to unplug them. You can remove the fans and each side of the front timing cover, but the rear part of the cover behind the cam sprocket makes it hard to see the head gasket. Also, you must remove the pully from the crankshaft in order to remove the center front timing cover. When replaced it MUST be torqued to specs. In all the years we've had Subaru EJ22 I've never seen an external coolant leak from a head gasket, but I have seen different hoses and water pump shaft seal leaks and cylinder compression into the cooling system from a blown head gasket.

EJ2.2 4EAT AWD The 95 is on it's 3rd tranny and the 97 is on it's second one. The first replacement tranny I put in the 95 would chirp the tires on a 1-2 shift with about half throttle. It wasn't supposed to, but she really liked that. The route is hard on brake pads. Raybestos and Wagner (good) semi-metallic pads would last exactly 3 months. Subaru Postal Pads go 7 to 8 months.

Very possible. I have swapped the axels side to side to see what happens. The noise will either go away or move to the other side. On our RHD 95 (472,711 miles), non Subaru Reman axels usually last about 2 years, although the last pair has been on 3 years. On our 97 RHD our local Subaru Dealer Parts Man told me to use Napa axels. So far they have been in 2 1/2 years. Both Legacy Wagons are used as USPS Mail cars driven by my wife and are going to retire shortly after August when she retires. A 50 mile route with almost 700 mailboxes is rough on them along with the rust.

Does it look like one of these? I don't think I would go for the cheap one. Standard products usually work good. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,1984,standard,1.6l+h4,1270325,ignition,ignition+control+module+(icm),7172 https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1984/subaru/dl/engine_electrical/ignition_control_unit.html

Something to think about. A few years ago I bought a used 97 RHD Legacy wagon with a 2.2 and 4EAT AWD. I replaced both front axels, both front wheel bearings, brakes all around, left inner tie rod and swapped the heads with 95 heads. The car ran great, but it had a whining noise that the pitch would get higher with speed. I know what a gear whine sounds like, so I checked the front diff fluid. The dip stick was dry. I added the recommended 80W-90 gear oil and checked it, still dry. I ended up adding almost a full quart. It holds 0.8 quarts. There were no leaks underneath and it was not going into the tranny fluid. Then I noticed the drain plug had been removed and replaced. Apparently, the previous owners mechanic had drained the oil and not refilled it. The guy drove it for a while until it developed a miss in the engine and that is when I got it. With no oil, the ring and pinion gears started to ware causing the whine. The damage to the teeth was already done. My wife drove it for a while but the noise started getting louder, so I drained the oil and replaced it with 75W-140. That kept it going until I had time to pull the tranny and swap the diff and pinion from another (bad) tranny. So, check your front diff oil and see what shape it is in.

Try this, turn the key to on wait about 4 seconds and turn the key off, then try to start it normally. Sounds like the fuel pressure is bleeding down when it sets overnight. More than likely the fuel pump check valve is not holding the pressure. Or the pressure regulator, but I doubt it. How old is the fuel filter? Fuel pressure testing gauges are not that expensive. You can leave it hooked up until you are finished testing and it gives you an extra line to bleed off the pressure before you remove it. Hook it in the fuel line right after the filter with the Tee and then see what pressure it runs at and then look at the gauge in the morning to see if it is down. Buy or make a vice grip pliers to pinch the rubber fuel line. First pinch the line coming into the filter from the pump and check the pressure in the morning. That will verify if the pump is leaking or not. Then if you have to, do the same with the hose going to the engine. That will verify if the pressure regulator leaking or not.

Looking at the wiring diagram, there are 4 fuses that run the (TCM) Transmission Control Module. Fuse #12, 14, 15, 16. They run other things that you would have noticed not working like windows, headlights and blower motor, but fuse # 14 may not be noticeable. 12 and 14 are hot all the time. 15 and 16 are powered from the IGN switch, so turn the key to on for them. Fuse # 14 ABS/TCS control module Transmission control module Does your car have ABS or Traction Control? Those modules communicate with the TCM. I'm puzzled by the "lurch forward 1 foot". In Park the Parking Pawl locks the front wheels (if it is working). I did find an article on a Factory Recall for the shifter on the 97/98 Legacy/Outback with bad weld joints. Don't know if that would cause your problem, but you know Murphy's Law. RECALL - AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION SHIFT LEVER ASSEMBLIES.pdf

You should have a check engine light on. Have someone pull the codes and wright them down. You might see something like P0720 and more. Do you have a volt-ohm meter? First step. On top of the bellhousing are two large connectors 12 and 16 pins for the tranny. Unplug them and look for corrosion on the pins. If they are clean, reconnect them and go for a ride and see if you still have symptoms. Go to the following web site and download the Factory Service Manual for your 97 Legacy. Click the link and then click the link for the manual and a new page will open. Click the big green download button. Another page will start to open with an add, click the X to close that page. Then follow through on the download bar at the bottom of the screen to save or save as. This will get the whole FSM in a Zip file. Extract it to a new empty folder and look it over. https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals- Go to this section - Legacy 1997\Diagnostics Section\On-Board Diagnostics II System Open this pdf file - Diagnostics Diagnostic Chart with Trouble Code for LHD Vehicles.pdf Go to page 311, it is over half way down the document. The next page for P0720 describes one of your symptoms "excessive tight corner “braking”". That could also be the CV joints. Once you have the DTC trouble codes those pages will guide you on what to check using an Ohm meter or Volt meter. You will see Connector B11 in the wiring and lower on the page will be a picture of the connector showing pin numbers. That connector is the 16 pin connector you looked at earlier. You can go to the wiring diagram and look at the Harness pages to see where a connector number is located in the vehicle. A printer will be very helpful to print just the pages you need.

If it has Security you will see these two items.

Looking at the FSM, what you do depends on whether your car has the Factory Security Module installed or not. With Security, if you unlock the door without using the Key, it would trip the alarm. You would need an aftermarket system designed to work with the Security system. Without Security, you can do whatever you want to do. You can get the FSM here. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/

Have you tried replacing the drive belt? Is it at the proper tension? Take a look at the metal pipes on the steering rack to see if any of them are kinked or squashed.

If it is the 20 AMP fuse in the box under the hood that blows then it is the Main fan causing it to blow. If it is the 20 AMP fuse 13 under the dash then it is the Sub fan causing it to blow. As you said, replace both fans is best. Lower mileage used ones or new.