Rampage

Right click (right mouse button) on the posted link and then left click on "Save Target As". Select a folder and Save. Then open it with (updated) Adobe Reader DC.

The engine was changed --- Are all the bellhousing bolts still tight? Automatic? Torque converter bolts tight?

Head gaskets. "Do not" try any stop leak. If the head gaskets were actually replaced before you got the car, then there could have been a problem with the gasket they used or they were not installed properly, or there is another underlying problem like a warped or cracked head. Won't know until you go hunting. The FSM will have the proper torque sequence for the head bolts. I would check the head bolts and see if you can determine what they are torqued to. Maybe they missed some of them.

I would suspect one or both of the fans. Once the motor brushes wear down and the copper wire it is attached to will contact the commutator and sparks fly. You won't see them because the motor is sealed. Unplug the fan that is not working and see if the fuse still blows. I would check the fan operation without running the engine to get it hot this way. Remove the panel under the steering column and look for two green connectors. Plug them together, but do not make them click (they are hard to separate). Turn the IGN Key to run (NO START) and watch the fans. This TEST MODE will operate relays, solenoids, fuel pump, A/C compressor clutch and then run both radiator fans on low speed then high speed then off, and repeat the cycle until you turn the key off. Let it run through several cycles. You will have the one fan unplugged, so only one fan should run low then high. If the fuse blows when it switches to high, then that fan is bad. If that fan cycles low and high, turn the key off and plug the other fan in and turn the key on and see when the fuse blows. Don't forget to unplug the test connectors. Personally, I would replace both fans. 305k is a lot of run time for those little fan motors. I use Dorman and they seem to hold up good. One fan is listed for cooling and the other fan is listed for A/C. If you end up getting two with the same shroud, just swap the new motor and fan to your old fan shroud. Let us know what happens.

What symptoms? Bubbles in the overflow tank or coolant leaking. Do the radiator fans run?

Have a look through this site. There are FSMs and other articles. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/

I work with our mid 90s and there is a plate on the strut tower that shows the engine and transmission type originally installed in the vehicle. I saw pics of early 2000s that have it. Ours are riveted, yours might be a glued on label somewhere. The A means it is 4 years older than the D. Yearly improvement/design change classification (Starts with 'A' and subsequently 'B', 'C', etc.). The H means it had the same engine.

Go to the following web site and save the Factory Service Manual - "1983 Subaru EA81.pdf" file. Put the cursor on the link and click the right mouse button. In the menu that pops up, move the cursor to "Save Target As" and click the left mouse button. A window will open and you can select or make a folder to save it in on your pc. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Old Models--/ There is a lot of stuff on that site. When you click on a folder and then want to go back, click on Parent Directory. You mentioned brakes, they are in Chapter 10. It's a long document so the scroll bar will be small. Move it about half way down. The page numbers at the bottom of each page will be 10-1 etc. I use Acrobat Reader DC to view pdf files. It's free.

I would not do that. With no power coming out of the IGN Switch and you supply power to the coil + the current will follow the wire to fuse # 12 and power up the other fuses on the IGN circuit and probably blow fuse # 12. @Debbie Norred are you using a test light or a volt meter to check for power? You could try this. Remove fuses 12, 13, 14, 15, and 16. They should all be 15 AMP. Turn your "screwdriver key" to the run "on" position. Check for power on one of the terminals for fuse 12. Stay on that terminal and add the other fuses one at a time. The power should go away by adding the load of those circuits if the IGN Switch is bad or the connector it plugs into the harness with. The wiring diagram I am looking at shows those 5 fuses on the same buss bar powered from the IGN Switch. If there are others not shown then you still may not see power on fuse # 12.

I have done the opposite, 95 heads onto a 97 block EJ22. You can swap the heads. And like you said, it will be interference. You will need the Y-pipe to match the 97 one exhaust port. Both heads should have the port for the EGR tube. Our RHD did. The older engines without EGR did not have the port, but do have the same raised circle with a dip in the center to drill and tap which I have also done on a 93. I know you can swap the rocker arm assy. Other people have swapped the 95 hydraulic lifter rocker assy. onto 96 and 97 heads. I think you can also swap the rollers in the rocker arms to get a good set of rollers, but be careful of the needle bearings. Compare the OD of the rollers.

Your coil is good, because the engine ran when you hot wired the fuel pump. I think what naru2 wants to know is, are the same pulses going to the coil also coming in on the yellow wire.

@heartless - Please take a look at the FSM pdf file I posted earlier page 23. It shows the new style tensioner. It is compressed Vertically at no more than 66 pounds. Must be because it is a 96 Impreza. The 95 and 97 Legacy 2.2 that we have use the old style tensioners. Of course, there is a chance someone may have installed the old style tensioner. In that case you are very correct in how to compress it.

No timing light, you use the marks on the new timing belt. If you get them set right the first time, the engine will start up like new. Take a look at this. Save it and print the pages you need. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Impreza/1996/1996 Service Manual/ENGINE SECTION/Engine/Service Procedures/Timing Belt.pdf First, I remove the fans and radiator. I tend to bump the radiator with tools and my knuckles. Unplug the connector to the coil. Then to break loose the crankshaft pully bolt, use a breaker bar with a short extension and socket. I have a long breaker bar, but you can put a piece of pipe on yours. Put the socket on the bolt with the handle and pipe under the passenger side of the frame. Pull the pipe up against the frame and have someone use the ignition key and bump the starter. Done. A friend and I made a tool to hold the pulley so I could torque it on assembly. Remove the front timing cover on the drivers side and turn the engine over clockwise until you see the timing mark on the cam sprocket line up with the groove behind it as shown in the pictures of the pdf file. That cam is holding valves open, so if you bump it, it will rotate off the mark. Just use a wrench to put it back on the mark. The other cam will turn free, so you have to watch both on assembly. I also use Hi Tack to hold the water pump gasket in place on assembly. Put a thin coat on the pump and apply the gasket making sure the bolt holes are lined up. Do this before you start removing things so it has time to set. It does not get hard.

You have changed the wheels and tires and that eliminates a bent wheel or a bump on the tire. You have changed the transmission, so I guess the axle stubs are fully inserted into the diff. Check the control arm bushings you can see if they look off center. Check the frame that the front a arm bushings mount to. If the frame is bent inwards it will move the wheel bearing inward and cause binding on the axle joint and this will cause steering wheel wobble. Measure the distance between the left and right ball joint nuts and compare it to another car that uses the same front axles. Measure both the same, wheels on the ground or on ramps. Does this car set lower in the front than normal, like weak or bent coil springs? In the FSM the ride height measurement is top of the wheel to the edge of the fender. Take the car to a big parking lot. Do not hold the steering wheel. Let the car move forward. Does the steering wheel move in one direction in jerks? If it continuously turns clockwise, there is a problem with the right front axel. If it continuously turns counterclockwise there is a problem with the left front axel. If the steering wheel just wobbles back and forth that is a sign of a bent rim, but you have replaced them and the hubs, so I am at a loss.

I have not rebuilt a Subaru engine yet, but all the V8s, inline 6s and 8s I just use the oil I am going to run in it. NOT Synthetic oil. In your case it would be 5W30. You could use 30W non-detergent oil the first time. That oil will drop contaminants and not carry them to the filter. I change the oil filter after a few hours of running. Then change the oil and filter after a few hundred miles. After that keep an eye on the dip stick. To seat the new rings, I run full throttle through the gears a few times without revving it too high, like 4k. It works best going uphill so the engine spends more time at full throttle. Ride the brake pedal a little if you have to keep the speed down. I've done it that way since I was 12 years old back in 59. Yes, I'm 72. I read it on a set of rings I got back then. It works.

Was the fuel pump connected when you did this test? Using a test light, there must be a load on the circuit. If not, hook up a headlight bulb or a fan motor to the connector and ground. If it works, then you know you have good voltage and current at the connector and that leaves the pump questionable. If the light is dim or the motor runs slow or not at all, then there is a problem upstream like relay contacts or another connector or even dirty fuse contacts.

Because of the 40 mph symptom, I thought it might have something to do with torque converter lockup, but I found this in the FSM trans diag. section. The CAN is communication between all modules on the car. The signals go through a lot of connectors. I did not look, but the Factory Service Manuals always have a test procedure for the "Accelerator pedal position sensor" and the "Throttle position sensor".

Try some PB Blaster or Freeze Off to get the nuts off. I have a Dremel tool with a wire brush wheel and it works wonders on rusty threads. I also bought an induction heater. It works good. I don't know about the wrench size. I wonder if the ball joints are loose on the drivers side sway bar link.

Darn electronics. Glad you got it working.

Normally the alternator output is connected to the battery through the fusible link, so it will show voltage. I think they call it the Main Fuse on yours. I would disconnect one of the battery posts and let it sit for 7-10 hours, randomly checking the voltage. If it goes below 12 volts it is weak. If you have an AMP Meter you can hook it between the battery post and the cable you removed from that post and see what current is being drawn from the battery. When you first connect it will show a spike and then should settle down to almost nothing.

I have had the same problem. If I remember correctly that tube drives the pump and should stay in the transmission. I think there is a clip that can cause a problem if you pull it. Most of the ones I did pop in after a few turns. I had one that I put a little grease on the part in the center that goes into the crankshaft and used my finger under it to lift and lower it as I turned it. Finally it went in. A big hammer is tempting, but it will just mess things up.

Try this site. I used zip code 86402 and two listings showed up. One in Ontario and one in Virginia. They list it as Ignitor/Coil. You would have to call the yards to see if the Ignitor is still on the coil bracket and if they still have it. Some of them take a long time to remove their listings. http://www.car-part.com/index.htm Have a look at this post. It is two pages long. See if your part looks the same. https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/170502-can-someone-tell-me-where-i-can-get-a-ignition-transistor-or-is-it-possible-to-bye-pass-it-on-a-90-loyale/ If I had more info on the part I think I could make one.

Cool. Makes you feel good, don't it. Just think, you get to do it again when you put that pully on. But, you've been there before so it will go a lot quicker.

I kind of doubt it is the rear hatch wire, but anything is possible. The Harness shows the rear room light exits the harness a few inches before going into the rubber tube. Is the fuse circled in the picture the one you are replacing? Fuse No.8 20-AMP This fuse supplys these 3 distrabution points. FB-10 FB-11 MB-29. FB-10 Audio Keyless entry control module Step light LH Step light RH Clock TV monitor FB-11 Trunk room light (Sedan model) Navigation control module Luggage room light (Wagon model) MB-29 Auto A/C control module Spot map light Body integrated unit Home link Room light I looked at most of the items listed and did not see a second fuse going to them, so any of them or their wire would blow that fuse. Each one of those Items would have to be disconnected or unpluged to see if it is the problem. If the fuse still blows, then it would have to be at least one of those wires shorted to body ground or shorted to another wire somewhere in the harness. The FSM has the wiring diagram and also the Wiring Harness and Plug numbers and where they are located in the vehicle. Also look for any kind of damage to the wiring harness. Example-the harness that goes to the rear room light and tail lights is routed behind the side panels. Not fun. You can download the Factory Service Manual at either of these sites.(I donated to both) http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ On this link, make your selection and when you click the Download button a second page will open, it's an add, click the X to close it. https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals- Hope this helps.

I'm curious, how would applying the brakes stop the rattle if it was caused by the strut spring? I'll have to find that bulletin. The bulletin is talking about a squeak not a rattle.