Rampage

For now, try a bottle of Trans-X. It is made for Auto trans and Power Steering. Just top it off with it and add when needed. Even Walmart has it. Get a pump from a junk yard or you can get a seal kit to rebuild yours. I learned about Trans-X here and it worked wonders on our 97 RHD.

I bet you were either bored or tired or half asleep or got sidetracked when you checked that one.

Look it up on www.carid.com They list both carb and fuel injection. Fuel injection will be 22 psi and carb will be like 4-5 psi.

Try swapping the Mass Air Flow Sensor. It can cause a lot of weird engine idle and power problems and never set a code. Idle Air Control Valve "may" need to be cleaned. To control the dampness, get a tube of Silicon Dielectric Grease and coat the inside and outside of the boots at the spark plugs and the inside of the boots and the posts of the coil. The grease is nonconductive. First thing I would try for the starter problem is get a wire 14 or16 gauge long enough to go from the starter to the battery and put a 1/4 inch flat female spade connector on one end. On the starter solenoid is a wire that plugs in on the back side. Unplug it and connect your wire to the solenoid. Touch the other end of the wire to the battery + post. Do this several times. If it cranks every time then the grounds and battery cables are fine. If it does not crank every time then check out the cables and grounds connectors and IGN SW. The power for the starter solenoid starts at the Ignition switch start position contact and goes through a connector below it, then out to a 12 pin connector on top of the bellhousing. In on pin 12 to the inhibitor switch on the transmission and out on pin 11 to the starter solenoid. It the car has Security then the power goes through a normally closed relay. I bypassed all that by adding a push button switch for the starter.

Check fuse 15 - 10amp. I don't know why this fuse would blow from jump starting a vehicle. Power to the fuse comes from IGN switch and goes to the listed items. It is hard to read, but it is in the corner of the fuse box.

Most of the 90s run both fans on low and both on high when needed. You have "one of the few" like our 97 that only runs one fan on low. If you look at the wiring diagram it will show that both fans should run on low speed. I found a tech article that stated "some" only run one fan on low speed. What they did was reverse the switching order of the two pins from the ECU that control the fan relays. I was ready to swap out our ECU until I found that article.

It is number 1 in the photo.

I have a question for you. Do both fans run when you turn on the A/C?

You are in the right area. Both temp sensors are located side by side on the coolant pipe under the intake. The two pin sensor is in a little further from the single pin one. The one with two pins is the one you want to change. That goes to the ECU. The single terminal one is for the gauge.

No. The contacts could be burned so bad they won't make contact. Does the motor run on high setting? If not then it probably is the relay.

Did you use NGK wires and plugs?

Like DaveT said if the steering wheel turns on its own when accelerating it will be an outer axel joint. If the steering wheel turns right, it is the right axel, if it turns left, it is the left axel. I had a brand new (after market) axel do that because the outer joint was way too tight. I moved the axel to the other side and the steering wheel turned the other way. It went on my scrap pile and I installed a reman axel. If the steering wheel does not turn, then it will be an inner joint on one of the axels. When accelerating the inner axel joint is pushing outwards against the wheel. The suspension is mounted with rubber bushings so it will give a little, thus producing a wobble feeling. A bad inner joint can cause that. When you lifted the car off the wheels they hung down so the joints moved to a different position that was not worn as bad. After driving for a while the joint shifted back into the worn spot and makes the wobble. That always happens to ours when the boot cracks on the inner joint and it gets dirt in it.

From what I have read the MAF sensor can be the cause all of those codes. The main relay supplies power to the circuits that the codes point to, but you changed it. You may want to replace the MAF. At one yard I go to it is $25 if I pull it. I am about to order one from partsgeek, a Delphi for $155. Delphi says they make them for OEM. Earlier I said I replaced a new (cheap) one that lasted 3 months on our 97. When I went to the junk yard, I got 2 of them and replaced the defective new one with one of those. Just the other day I had to use the second one. I think I may have to investigate the circuit. Each time there was a loss of power, no code was ever set, no CEL. Fast acceleration or going uphill the car had no power and would not downshift on its own to maintain or increase speed. I checked a lot of things that could cause loss of power and then swapped the MAF and the power was back.

I like using RockAuto because you can have multiple years, models and parts lists open to compare part numbers by scrolling up and down.

Maybe the rubber is shot. The outer ring is mounted on the center part with rubber. Or, the bolt was not torqued tight enough and the pully is spinning on the crankshaft. The crank has a key and the pully has a slot to keep it from turning. I have had the bolt loosen up and the key will wear out the inside of the pully. The key only goes into the pully about a quarter inch. A friend made me a tool to hold the pully while torqueing it.

Measuring ohms on the connector pins of the coil is not going to tell you much about the coil. The newer coils have the Ignitor built into it at the input. When you are seeing is a transistor circuit that is affected by the voltage from your ohm meter. All you can measure on the coil with an ohm meter are the output terminals. Around 11K between 1 and 2 and the same between 3 and 4.

Years ago with cast iron blocks, when we couldn't find oversized bearings we used bearing shims with new standard bearings. They came in a sheet of what ever thousandth over size you needed. The bearing half was placed in the block with the crankshaft. The shim was placed in the bearing cap and then the bearing half and plastigauge added and was torqued then removed and the plastigauge was measured to see what the clearance was. Sometimes the shims had to be changed several times and measured each time. The first step was to place the bearings on the crank to make sure there was a little end gap between the two halves. I really don't want to do all that with an aluminum split block. I know they still do this with old tractors. Does anyone remember the really old machines using leather for bearings?

I remember reading some time ago, that the R134a molecule is smaller than the R12 molecule and can actually leak through some of the R12 hoses.

I read somewhere that if you mix R12 and R134a it is called Black Death. Besides the Freon being two different chemical compositions, R12 uses mineral oil and R134a uses PAG oil. R134a will not carry mineral oil through the system and back into the compressor so the compressor runs out of oil. When converting from R12 to R134a you have to add Ester 100 to the mineral oil to make it work with R134a.

Year, Model and Transmission auto or manual? If the starter solenoid does not click, then it is not getting voltage or not enough voltage from the ignition switch start contacts, through the inhibitor switch for automatic or a relay for manual. If the car has a security system that adds another relay to the circuit.

Great. Those relays seldom go bad, but time takes its toll. Was the relay round? Those handle more current. One time the fuel pump quit on our 95 when my wife was near the end of her mail route. I grabbed my spare and found her. When I removed the supply hose there was a lot of pressure and I thought I wonder, so I tightened the clamp and it started, so she finished the route and I replaced the pump when she got home. It seems the pump did not want to start under pressure.

Main bearings and their oil clearance and alignment of the crankshaft. When you pull the pistons make sure they go back into the same hole. The FSM has good info and pictures on the piston rings and checking the end gap of the compression ring in the cylinder.

I can not find a wiring harness diagram for your car, so I don't know about yours, but on our 95 Legacy RHD the fuse block is located on the right side under the dash and the Fuel Pump relay and Main relay clip into brackets above the fuse block. They have their own 4 pin connectors. Left Hand Drive may be on the other side.

I have not worked on the older Subarus, but I have worked on a ton of older vehicles. What we have is in the mid 90's, all RHD Legacys. One more question. Did you get the Ignitor from the 91? The ignitor is mounted at the center of the firewall where the support arm goes to the bellhousing. The ECU gets signals from the cam and crank sensors, then sends signals to the Ignitor, from it they go to the coil. The Ignitor is basically high power transistors that handles the high current load of switching the coil instead of the ECU. Unplug the connector from the coil and turn the key to IGN. Check the pins on the connector, one of them should be 12 volts.

Are you using the ECU AND Wiring harness from the 91? The 82 had a distributor. The 91 is MPFI and needs the ECU to control injectors and spark.