Rampage

No keyless entry. Nothing in the FSM Wiring Diagram. It may or may not have Security. The info is in the Owners Manual.

Pry the outer side of the caliper away from the rotor just a little to push the piston in about an eighth inch. If you can wiggle or move the caliper up and down, the guide pins a worn. I have a big C-clamp to do that.

Some of these new driving lights and fog lights are nasty. Some are angled up too high. And the ones that are angled down too far glare off the wet road.

Most companies require proof that the system was flushed and the receiver dryer was replaced to cover the compressor under warranty.

Does the A/C belt have an adjustable tensioner pully, or is it a stretch belt? If it is adjustable, remove the A/C belt and spin the pully. If you hear the whirring sound it is the bearing in the pully. I replaced it on out 95 RHD this year.

Paint has the pixel option for resize. Select Pixel and enter 800 in the field with the largest number and the other field will change accordingly. (maintain aspect ratio checked) It may not be 600 depending on the exact image size.

If you are running Windows 10 you can do the following. Older versions of Windows have Paint, but the layout is different. Personally, I use a free program called Irfan View, but after windows 10 major updates, I have to keep sitting it as my default image and video viewer. My pc is 64bit so I use the 64bit version. Once the pics are in a folder on your pc, go to the folder and right click (right mouse button) on the one you want to resize, a menu will pop out, scroll to "Open With". Another menu will pop out. Left click on Paint. Paint will open and the image will be displayed at its normal size. A large image will look like it is zoomed in. You will see Resize in the toolbar, click it. A small window will open and you can change the size by percentage. It will be at 100. Make sure "Maintain aspect ratio" is checked and when you change the top field the bottom will follow. A lot of phones take a large picture and you may have to change the size to 20 percent. The resized image will show in the window. If the image is still too large or too small, click the Undo button at the top left of the toolbar. There is Undo and Redo, they are curved arrows. Then do a different resize until the image fits in the window. The next step is to save the change. To preserve the original image, click File and Save As "Jpeg picture". In that window the name is displayed. Click on the name to remove the highlight and get the blinking line cursor and add a 1 or an a at the end of the name. And Save it.

I can not help you on the no reverse problem. That happened to one of ours and I just swapped the tranny. If you go shopping for a transmission, there is a sticker on the bellhousing above the starter. Write down that code. The first 6 digits are very important. The code on our 4EAT is TZ102Z. Ask them if they can drive out the roll pins and leave the axle stubs in the tranny differential. Otherwise you will have to reuse the ones from your old tranny. It will be in the auto trans Diagnostic section.

What part of the line blew? Was it replaced or repaired? What kind of noise? Whirring like a bearing. Screeching like a clutch or belt. Clunking mechanical noise. What is the warranty on the reman compressor? Was the system flushed when the reman compressor was installed? Was the receiver dryer replaced at that time? Was the orfice tube or expansion valve replaced at that time? Was the proper amount and type of oil added to the reman compressor when installed? Some of them come prefilled, some don't. Was new oil added after replacing the blown discharge line? Charging the system would require pumping it to a vacuum and testing for leaks, then charging to the proper amount of Freon and checking low and high pressures to indicate any problems. The pressures are variable depending on ambient temperature. If the mechanic was experienced, charging the system would not cause a problem.

Sounds feasible, it's the beers fault. It can mess up a lot of things.

I use a long box wrench and my foot.

With the front wheels up on ramps, I leave the bracket a little loose and draw up the nut so the bracket can move forward, then tighten the bracket and loosen the nut and then tighten it.

You are probably right about the alternator. Check SBF-1 80 AMP (slow blow fuse). The radio and air have their own fuses but they are fed from the SBF-1 along with a lot of other stuff. That is the fuse that blew on a WRX when the Alt was putting out over 20 volts. The car was dead when that happened. It connects the Alt to the battery.

Looks like 92 Ft Lb. on the short one and 129 Ft Lb. on the long one.

Most of the kits work about the same. It is the final steps that make it last longer. Polish and UV protection. Nice pictures. Wish I had taken some, but I never gave it a thought. The reason I had to replace the headlights on our 95 is because of a deer.

I just installed a set on our 95 RHD Legacy that I ordered from here https://www.carid.com and they look and work good. Their price was 214 for a pair. Other places wanted 150-200 each. 3M makes a kit to polish the lenses. It works great. Even Walmart has it. Type - 3M headlight restoration kit - into Google. I had to order refills of the sanding disks because of doing so many for friends and relatives. I also have the large bottles of clean and buffing compound and the polish compound to finish it off. The kit says to start sanding dry, but I start wet using a spray bottle filled with water. You will need a variable speed drill. Every one that I did looks like new, except the few that had moisture inside the lens. I had to take the ones apart on my cub cadet because of moisture inside, but now they look new.

Here is something that will help when installing the new bearing. Put the new bearing it the freezer. It will shrink a tiny bit. After the old bearing is out, use a sanding drum in a drill to remove rust. Heat the housing with a heat gun or a small torch. It doesn't have to be red hot. The new bearing should slide into place with very little force. I did this years ago on my 84 Dodge Rampage. I had the front knuckle turned outward with the opening facing slightly upwards and when I released the bearing it dropped into place. No hammering.

I think the two problems with using an LED in this circuit are: 1 the LED forward current is only 50-60ma and the bulb is around 1amp used to excite the regulator to start charging until the Diode Trio takes over when charging. So I don't think the voltage would be high enough to start the regulator. 2 when charging there is a little over a volt difference (I measured 1.2v) between the battery and the light terminal so the LED may light even if the alternator is charging.

You do know that an LED (light emitting diode) is a diode and will only conduct current is one direction. If hooked up in reverse it will not conduct and therefore no light. I noticed on the ones you are getting that one pin is longer than the other. That usually means they are polarized, . Sometimes they have a flat side at the base of the plastic. Try one and see if it is polarized. If it does not light, turn it around. Some companies make bipolar LED that will light in either direction and some can be a different color depending on direction. They have two LEDs mounted in opposite directions. Mark the base of each one so you know which terminal goes to positive. Then check the FSM to see which terminal is positive on the light socket. You'll have to check each one. For the instrument cluster, the Battery or Charge light must be the original incandescent bulb if it has one.

Thanks, but then my wife would find out about those and she would request mass production. I couldn't handle that. Maybe later.

Check out the ones on this page and see what you think. They have 3 sizes (3-4-5mm) in shades of white and 4 colors. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/instrument-cluster-gauge/neox-led-bulb-high-power-instrument-panel-led/221/7737/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIs-ra5-W_5gIVA9vACh1J1QccEAQYAiABEgJUz_D_BwE I might try them out if someone gives me "a round to it".

I agree for Subaru application. A molded hose is much better. But, for a Ford Flathead V8 they are perfect for the 2 upper hoses. They are better than the hose with the spring on the inside exposed to the coolant.

Are the doors randomly locking themselves? No one actually said what they did to fix the problem, but I think what they are talking about is, because of the linkage contracting (shrinking) when getting cold it opens the door lock switch (in the drivers door) which signals the Door Lock Timer to lock the other doors. The JB Weld was probably used to limit movement of the switch. I would have to look at the system to figure it out for sure. The post by Matt, at the top of this page has a link for "door lock pdf" file. If you haven't already done it, click and save the pdf file and study it.

I just remembered, when you unplug the radiator fans, there is a clip in the center of one side that you have to pry out on to release it. Do not pull on the wires, they may come out of the plug.