Rampage

That sounds like the torque converter is not coming out of lockup the way it should when slowing down or putting the brake on. When driving and the tranny shifts into 4th gear and the car goes above a certain speed the lockup solenoid puts the torque converter into lockup (like a direct coupling). If it does not release when it should it will bog down the engine. Putting it into neutral shows that. lmdew has a good idea about using TransX. Our 97 was having a delayed shift into reverse and higher shift points going up through the gears. TransX fixed it.

I doubt it. You said it used to start by wiggling the shifter in park. Try starting it with the shifter in neutral. The selector switch (neutral safety switch) may be out of adjustment or going bad. Try this. Get a piece of wire 14 or 16 gauge long enough to go from the battery to the starter. Put it in Park and turn the key to ON. On the back of the starter solenoid is a small wire that plugs in. Unplug it and put one end of your wire on the terminal the plug was on and touch the other end to the battery positive post. It should crank and start. Let us know what happens.

Also, another reason the ECU is different between the two '99 vehicles.

I really have no idea. I have never owned one or worked on them for autos. What we're doing now is the closest I've been to one. Without knowing the internal circuitry related to the pinout, it is just guess work. In the late 70s - early 80s I designed and built electronic control boxes for security systems (from scratch) for business's. Those would call the owner and the police and sound an alarm and some would turn on certain lights.

When you remove the cam pully clean the tip of the sensor.

Harbor Freight has good jack stands.

Did you check the plug under the seat for corrosion? If the contacts are clean, with it unplugged you could hook up an ohm meter to the connector going into the seat and see if the reading changes while moving around on the seat. And you could check for voltage on the other half as you work the switches. It's the place to start.

20 minutes is a long time for heat. I can feel warm air about 2 miles down the road in our 95 Legacy. Thermostat is probably stuck open or the heater core may be partially plugged on the inside or on the outside with debris. For the A/C to take 20 minutes to work is unreal. It should a matter of seconds. Does the vehicle have a "cabin air filter"? I once had a problem with air flow in the 95. I had to remove the dash and then the a/c evaporator and heater core box. The fan blows air through the evaporator then the heater core then to the vents. I found the surface of the evaporator core was 3/4 covered with crud from leaves and dust. Some newer vehicles have a cabin air filter to keep that from happening.

Hopefully the replacement alt will work. I am lucky in that I live about ten miles from a shop that repairs alternators and starters and they know me (I do computers). I took an alt in one time needing brushes. I had it apart and he soldered the new brushes in for me (which I could have done) and gave me the new bearings and I put them in. It cost me about 12 bucks. Good luck.

Sorry, I had to edit my last post. It will make more sense now. The connector number is B59 for the starter interrupt relay. It is possible that both B59 and B243 have relays in them.

Here is what I found so far. If you look at the wiring harness (previous post) on the upper left edge you will see two connecters side by side. B59 and B243. B59 is the Interrupt Relay for the starter. It is a "NORMALLY CLOSED" relay. On a system without the Security Module the B59 connecter will have a jumper connector plugged into it. When you get the proper relay, remove the jumper and insert the relay. The Security module will not see the coil of the relay because it is not there. I don't know if this is a problem for it to work correctly or not. The purpose of this relay is so the Security Module can disable the Starter. B243 is the Security Horn Relay. It may already have a relay in it or not. They show a separate horn for security. I'll keep hunting.

Look at that, wow. Well I'll get started hunting. I have to look at each page for those two connecters and follow the wires to see what they go to. I might have to print certain pages and hook them together to make sense of it all. That's better than scrolling up and down the pdf file. While I am doing this, can you look through the owners manual to see if there is any setup procedure for the Security Module?

I never worked on one, so I don't know. I did see on one page of the wiring diagram that there are differences in the wiring harness for "with and without" Security Module, so they may use a different harness and the plug may not bee there. If you find the plug B93 and there is no module, then I can search the wiring diagram (about 80 pages) to see what is connected to it. It will take me a few days so let me know if you find the plug..

I'm guessing it is all wheel drive. Have you checked the oil in the front and rear differentials and the transmission? Get the wheels off the ground and run it in gear and locate the area of the noise. Front differential, transmission, rear differential, driveshaft u joints, support bearing in the middle of the driveshaft. Subaru calls the driveshaft a propeller shaft.

The Keyless Entry Module is on connector B176. The one you swapped. The Security Module is located by the drivers right foot. See dash harness Connector B93. If the car does not have the Security Module, I am pretty sure there will be some relays and maybe fuses missing, so just plugging one in will not work.

The only 1994 wiring diagram I could find is for an Impreza. It looks the same as our 95 Legacy. The plug on the alternator has 2 wires. The large one hooks to the wire on the alternator stud then goes to the fusible link then to the battery (hot all the time). The smaller wire goes to the batt light bulb. The other side of the bulb goes to fuse 15 to get battery voltage when the key is on. When the alternator is charging there is an output on the small wire of the plug to keep the light bulb from lighting. If that voltage is not there the light will turn on. Battery voltage on one side low voltage on the other side. I just checked our 95 Legacy. Engine at idle, the large wire is 14.2v and the small wire is 13v. I don't know if they use the same bulb, but I just measured the resistance of the batt bulb on our 95 Legacy. It is 11.5 ohms and draws .104 A (104 ma) at 13.8 v. I don't think it will make a difference but I guess you could try hooking up another bulb from the battery + to the small wire on the alt plug and see if the voltage changes. This diagram does not show the fuse between the ignition switch and the light.

Cool. Does your car have the Security Control Module? It would be just left of the module you changed. If it doesn't there will be a connector plugged in that shorts certain wires. I see there are 3 wires connected between the Keyless Entry Module and the Security Control Module. Maybe that is the trigger for key off to control the room light. The wiring diagram shows how modules and other things are connected, but does not say how they work internally. So I am at a loss.

No I don't, but I'll check the FSM.

It looks like the Keyless Entry Control Module controls that. Took me a while to find it. My power went off, it's really windy.

You are right about the 3 volts. If the bulb you put in has a higher resistance than the old one then the voltage at the L terminal will be lower. The same goes for the diode (forward voltage drop). Different part numbers of diodes have different forward current and voltage drop characteristics. Chances are the replacement alternator requires a lower resistance (higher wattage) bulb to make it work.

I have not worked on a Subaru manual tranny yet, but I have done a lot of older 4 and rear wheel drive trannys. Does the sound change when you press and release the clutch without the car moving? (clutch release bearing) Does the sound stop when you hold the clutch in and put it in gear with the brake on? (input shaft bearing or something further inside) I'm sure someone that has worked on them will chime in. They will want to know the answers to those questions to start with.

Do the wheel closest to the ABS pump first, then work your way around the vehicle.

Is that one click or a constant series of clicks when turning the key to start position? When you turn the key to start, if the sound is like a chatter, that is usually the sign of a low battery. One click means the starter solenoid is not getting enough voltage or current to pull in completely to run the starter motor. First I would check the voltage on the battery ( 12 volts ) then with the engine running and the lights on, it should be at least 13.8 volts at an idle. If you don't have a volt meter you can turn the headlights on and then try to start it. It the lights go out or get very dim the battery is not charged so have the alternator checked.

Most braking systems work the same. When you push the peddle the rear goes on first, then the front goes on but the front brakes harder than the rear. Normally the rear shoes outlast several front pads. On our 95 RHD (mail car) I change the rear shoes every year or two, but I have to change the front (postal pads) every 8 months.

Great. You did say one of the rod bearings looked worn, (lack of oil) it seems like that was the one making the noise.