Jump to content
Registrations ×
Ultimate Subaru Message Board
Registrations

Rampage

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    683

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    25

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Rampage

  1. Rampage
    Just to let you know I did not forget. I had to order toner for my laser printer. I need to print several pages of the wiring diagram so I can compare the wiring of i10 and i11 and the circuits they connect to. The wiring diagram spreads the connectors out over numerous pages. I'll be back when the toner shows up.
  2. Rampage
    Found this on a search. https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/21011-help-where-is-transmission-control-unit-tcu-located-on-a-1990-legacywagon/
  3. Rampage
    The Power Light is controlled by the TCU. If it worked earlier but is not working now, then I would suspect the TCU or a power wire to the TCU. There are 3 power wires to the TCU. I do not suspect a fuse because the 2 fuses that power it also power the ECU and Fuel Pump Relay and they appear to be working. The TCU Sockets jpg shows the location of the 3 power connections. Looking at the wire side of the plugs they are numbered from right to left, top row then bottom row. Pin 1 and Pin 6 are Yellow wires. Pin 14 is Yellow/red wire. They should show 12v with the key on. The FSM does not give the location of the TCU. It is under the dash on our 93, 95 and 97 RHD wagons. I'm attaching a PDF page from the 1990 Parts Manual that show 9 different part numbers for the TCU used in the 2WD station wagon. They are marked with a "1". It is probably one of the first three numbers. I did not look up the remarks. That part number "31711 xxxxx" will be the top row of numbers on the label on the TCU. You can open and print the PDF file and print the JPG too. TCU part numbers.pdf
  4. Rampage
    Cool, it works. It is frustrating when you have to replace a new part. Maybe that pump was assembled on a Monday, like the one I got.
  5. Rampage
    That is odd for it to go to the middle on a cold engine. The Temp Gauge is supplied 12v and a Ground and another ground from the wire to the single wire Temp Sensor. Unplugging the Temp Sensor wire should make it stay at cold with the key on. Sounds like the Gauge itself is bad. I think I would change the Temp Sensor too, just in case it caused the Gauge to go bad. If the sensor wire is grounded somewhere the Gauge would go to hot, not the middle. To go to the middle it would have to be a certain amount of resistance to ground and that is very unlikely. I had to change the fuel gauge on our 95 because it was stuck on full. So they can go bad. Most of them never fail. Actually, the Temp and the Fuel Gauges work on the same kind of circuit. A hot and a ground and a variable resistance to ground.
  6. Rampage
    Actually I got my name from the 84 Dodge Rampage I had back in the mid 90's. Nice truck, FWD black with gold and silver pin stripes with a cap. I worked for an ISP and wanted a second email address and Rampage popped into my head. Been using it ever since. I started with electrical, electronics back when they used tubes and cars when I was a kid and I still have things to learn. The first vehicle I drove at 8 years old was my uncles Model T pickup. I was 12 or 13 when I rebuilt my first flathead V8 in one of my two 51 Merc coupes. I'll work on the i10 and i11 thing and see what I can find out. Good luck and thanks for the nice comment.
  7. Rampage
    I have to do some more research on the i10 and i11 wires. Those connector numbers suggest you are using the 03 instrument cluster, right?
  8. Rampage
    Manual a/c does not show connector B135. Automatic a/c shows connector B135 and pin 23 Red wire goes to a 4pin connector on the Pressure Switch. They don't say which switch, the High Pressure Cut Out or Low Pressure Cut Out switch in the Freon circuit. (one pair of contacts normally closed and one pair normally open) The Red wire connects to a normally open contact on the switch. The other contact is ground. The normally closed contacts power the a/c control module and the coil of the a/c relay for the compressor clutch. If the pressure is normal, then the Red wire would be normally open and not grounded. Depending on which side it is on, that pressure switch would only operate if the High Side pressure goes too high or the Low Side goes too low and it will cut power to the a/c relay (controls the compressor clutch) and the a/c Control Module. If that happens then the Red wire pin 23 would be grounded and the ECU would see that. What it does with that info I am not sure. With the compressor shut off maybe it will cut back on engine idle or power. Since the ECU is looking for a ground on pin 23 to indicate a problem, there will be voltage on it, probably with the key ON. Check it for voltage. If it shows voltage, I would just leave it.
  9. Rampage
    From the 4EAT manual: If shift solenoids #1 or #2 malfunction, the TCU deactivates the other. This results in either 3rd gear or Reverse (when selected). Could be the TCU, wires, connectors or the solenoids themselves. The solenoids operate valves. Go here and download some manuals. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ Click on Articles and then Transmission. (click Parent directory to go back) There are several manuals for the 4EAT. I downloaded all of them. You can also get the FSM. I forget which side, but the TCU is under the dash either behind the glove box or steering wheel. Our 95 has TCU on the label. Unplug and reconnect the plug and do the same for the two big connectors on top of the bellhousing. One 12pin is for the inhibitor switch and the other 16pin goes into the tranny. Look for corrosion on the connectors. The manuals will tell you what pins on the 16pin connector to check ohms for the shift solenoids.
  10. Rampage
    After looking at the video on the 93 I remembered something very important. We have RHD Legacy wagons, so I looked at our 93 RHD and the a/c compressor in different. It does have a bolt holding the clutch on same as our 95 and 97 RHD although the newer ones use a different looking clutch. Several years ago I looked at different Subaru websites and they all wanted over $1,000 for the 95 RHD compressor. I should have thought about LHD, RHD before I posted.
  11. Rampage
    For the Fuel Temp sensor, the Red/Yellow wire Pin 18 from the Impreza B99 goes to Red/Lavender(blue) pin 27 on the H6 connector B99. Hopefully the sensors are the same. That is something I don't know. The other Temp Sensor wire Black/red Pin 7 Impreza B97 will go to Black/yellow Pin 13 on the H6 B99. Make sure Pin 13 goes to 12v with the IGN key ON. That will also supply power for the fuel gauge. On B97 you are right about L/y hooked to Pin 6 R/b for the fuel pump. The W/B colored wires go together for stop lights. And Pin 5 is ground.
  12. Rampage
    Thanks, I wanted to be sure. Right now I'm also working on a laptop for a friend, but I'll get back to you soon.
  13. Rampage
    I have not looked at that yet. Just so I don't get mixed up, Are the B97 and B99 connectors the 10 and 20 pin connectors originally on the 97 Impreza? I know you said you got the Bulkhead wiring, but the under dash wiring is also called Bulkhead wiring.
  14. Rampage
    The pin layout on the fuel pump connectors R58 are different between the two vehicles. The fuel pump gets power from pins 1 and 4 on the 97 and pins 1 and 2 on the 03. And the Fuel Temp sensor pins are different. Besides that, the later model uses a Fuel Pump Control Module which the 97 does not have. Both use a fuel pump relay, but on the newer one the Fuel Pump Control Module supplies a hot from the relay and also a ground to the Fuel Pump. It will take some time, but I will try to sort it out and see what wires must be moved on the B99 and B97 connectors.
  15. Rampage
    Did you get the wiring harness that goes to the fuel pump including the fuel pump assembly? There is a big difference in the wiring for that plug on the 97 and the 03.
  16. Rampage
    One bolt in the center. I use a large pair of channel lock pliers to hold the clutch. Or you can apply 12v to the clutch wire and see if it holds it tight enough to brake the bolt loose. On some, you can use a small C-clamp (not real tight) to hold it. When you pull the clutch off the splined shaft watch for the "thin washers" they use for adjusting the space between the clutch and the pully face. Sometimes they stick to the clutch and slide out with it, then drop off. If you need to remove one, use a small angled pick, or a tube that will slide on the shaft with a little grease on the end of it. Use however many of the washers it takes so the clutch and pully face are almost touching.
  17. Rampage
    Map sensor in on the throttle body. Air Temp sensor number 10 in the drawing, is on the air box connector E20. I guess they don't want it in the direct flow of air, but off to the side.
  18. Rampage
    Forget my last post, the 03 H6 engine does not use a MAF sensor. It uses a MAP sensor and Air Temp sensor which would be included in the harness and ECU you installed.
  19. Rampage
    Did you connect the MAF sensor? Some engines will not run without it connected. Also, if it is bad the engine can shut off instead of idling.
  20. Rampage
    With a PDF file you can print "current page" to your printer. I use Adobe Reader DC (free) to view pdf files. For any page I want to save out of the FSM PDF, I right click on the page I'm looking at and select Print, then for the printer I select Microsoft print to PDF. Then I create a new unique name folder and name the file and it will save that page as a PDF file in that folder. Later I can go through that folder and open and print any of those files to the printer. Don't forget to select your normal printer. I save a lot of wiring diagram pages that way, so I don't have to scroll up and down through the whole thing. Using Adobe, I can have a lot of pages open in different tabs and click on the different tabs to see what is connected to what.
  21. Rampage
    Does it have a manual or a 3AT or 4AT transmission? The ATs have different connectors for the Inhibitor switch. And, do you have a volt meter?
  22. Rampage
    Auto to manual swap mostly, but we don't know if the security system is working yet so jump 2+6 then find out later. The automatic uses the inhibitor switch Park + Neutral positions to short pins 11+12 on that connector and the OE manual clutch pedal controls a relay in its place. So both can interrupt power to the starter solenoid. You could pick up an inhibitor switch and plug it in and put it in park and it would work (until the contacts go bad from never being moved). Electrolysis causes contacts to insulate from each other if they are not moved to wipe off the oxide on the contacts. I wanted pins 2+6 jumped to make sure the engine would crank and it did. Now that it runs, the relay can be put back in place of the jumper and see if the security module works and lets it crank. If it does, great, but if it doesn't well, that is a whole different ball park.
  23. Rampage
    Separate parts. You know the inhibitor sw. is on the auto tranny gear selector. The inhibitor relay is under the dash. The contacts of the relay and the inhibitor sw. are wired in series. If either one is open the starter solenoid will not get power from the IGN SW Start position.
  24. Rampage
    Great!!! Now we know you have a good IGN Switch and starter. Keep in mind that when you turn the key, the starter will crank the engine in any gear now. Down the road, IF you want the security system to work replace the jumper ( pins 2 and 6) with the relay and have fun. I don't know much about them (only what I can see in the wiring diagrams) and I really don't want to. My 73 year old brain doesn't like to be overloaded. I mostly work on computers now, but the last two vehicles I wired from scratch was a 37 PT50 Plymouth Pickup truck 3 years ago and a 52 Ford F1 Pickup truck this past winter.
  25. Rampage
    In the video you posted he put oil on the crank shaft bolt. Not a good idea. If the key is not super tight in the groove of the harmonic balancer, the bolt will loosen over time. I've seen it happen. The bolt should have Red Loctite on it. You will see it on the bolt you take out. Use a spray cleaner like 2+2 and then air in the bolt hole on the crank to clean it out. Torque: SOHC 94 ft. lb. DOHC 130 ft. lb.
×
×
  • Create New...