Rampage
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Everything posted by Rampage
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Yes, it will be the only 12 pin connector on top of the bellhousing. Lavender looks like blue. Pin 11 should show continuity to the small connector on the starter. Pin 12 should show 12v when the key is turned to Start. (if the interrupt relay is working OR jumped) Strip the tape back a little ways and cut the two wires. I would twist and solder them, but you can use a wire nut. If you have silicone grease (dielectric for spark plug wires) Poke the twisted wires in it and then put the wire nut on them. Keeps moisture off the wire. Tape it and the open end of the connector.
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- 6 cylinder
- subaru
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With IGN KEY in Start position, 3 pins will have 12v and the 4th pin will be ground IF the security module is working otherwise it will also be 12v. With IGN Key in Start position 12v on pins 1 and 2 and 4 if Security Module is not working and 0v on 6. If Security Module is working and grounds pin 4, 12v on pins 1 2 and 6.
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- 6 cylinder
- subaru
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Connector B12 - Pin 12 is White Green and Pin 11 is White Lavender. Jumper together.
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- 6 cylinder
- subaru
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Connector B59 Pin 2 is WB and Pin 6 is WG. Both should be large gauge.
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- 6 cylinder
- subaru
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If you unplug the security module the starter will not work. That disables the Interrupt Relay. There are two pins that have to be connected to bypass the Interrupt Relay contacts. See the wiring diagram for Starter MT and AT (upper left corner) pins 2 and 6 on Connector B59. A pic of the plug is at the bottom on the page. It is the connector side, not the wire side. Pin 15 on Connector B93 of the security module supplies a ground for the interrupt relay coil. Check it to see if it is 0 volts with the key in start position. If it is 12v then the security module is not closing the relay. The automatic trans inhibitor switch wires must be jumped. I don't know what you mean by 0 - 5v thing. I would also check the wiring diagram on the door lock system and compare between the two vehicles. I did not do that.
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- 6 cylinder
- subaru
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One thing to consider on the tranny cooler is winter driving. The tranny will delay shifting into 4th and lockup when cold to warm up the engine quicker. It uses its own heat and heat from the radiator to warm up the fluid so it can shift sooner. In the summer climbing hills it might be a good thing. If you hook one up, I would keep the oil flow through the radiator. Our 95 RHD Legacy wagon AWD 4EAT (476k miles mail car) the original radiator lost the fins between the tubes on the lower third of the radiator. On the aftermarket replacement after a few years the upper hose plastic tube started to crack around the tube where the clamp was. The next one has been in a lot of years and is fine. The OE radiator fans have one 4 and one 5 blade units. I replaced the 4 blade with a 5 blade and motor. I think the 4 blade is the Main Fan and the 5 blade is the Sub Fan. The 5 blade is listed under A/C parts on RockAuto. I just looked and they show 5 blades on both fan assembly's. ? I order three of those (for spares) and then swap one of the motor and fan to the old 4 blade shroud. They move a lot of air. In case you don't know about this there are two green test connectors under the steering wheel. You have to remove the panel. Connect them, turn the key to ON (no start) and the ECU will run the fuel pump, solenoids, ac compressor clutch and then both fans on low speed, then high speed then off and repeat the cycle until you turn the key OFF. Good way to see if both speeds are working on both fans.
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Once the surface is clean (block and heads) use a good straight edge length wise and diagonal to see if they are flat. Gaps can be checked with a feeler gauge.
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Heat makes the valve cover gasket rubber get hard as a rock and come out in pieces. Also, the spark plug tube seals come in some of the kits. They keep oil from getting on the spark plugs and causing a misfire. As lmdew said, do both sides. Both sides would have gotten hot. You flushed the engine and radiator, I would also flush the heater core both directions. On a cold engine water is first circulated through the engine and heater core.
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You did not say that in your first post. I was just trying to help you quickly find a vacuum diagram. I did that search before I replied. I often find references to this forum and others.
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Go to Google and type the following. 1985 subaru gl vacuum diagram or ea82 subaru vacuum diagram Then click Images. They always throw in other stuff, but you will find some info.
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Click this link and download the FSM. (195 MB) https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals- Click the link under Impreza at 2012. Another page will open. Click the big green download button and save the zip file. Another page with an add will open, just close it. Extract the zip file to an empty folder. Using File Explorer, expand the Engine Section folder then expand Engine Diagnostics and open the "19 Diagnostic Procedure with Diagnostic Trouble Code DTC pdf" file. Scroll down to page 289 (DTC P2097). There are 6 pages of things to check. They refer to a lot of connectors. To locate them on the vehicle do this. Get the connector number. Go to the Wiring System Section and you will see several files with Wiring Harness in the name. Open them and find the connector number. That location is where you will find it.
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Not that I remember. That was several years ago. Just the CEL and code P0420 "Catalyst System Efficiency below threshold". I had swapped the cats from our parts car and that gave it another 100k, but the code came back so I added the extenders. The 95 has 476,073 on it right now. Third engine (over heating) and tranny, because of the mail route (almost 700 mail boxes) and a lead foot.
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The coil pack has two coils in it along with transistors (ignitor) to fire the coils. The front two cylinders share the same coil and the two rear cylinders share the same coil, so two plugs fire at the same time. (wasted spark) Get a coil and plug wires from a scrap yard. You don't want an aftermarket coil. If you buy plug wires or spark plugs, get NGK.
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Open coil, that's good. The ohm meter reading will bounce around with all that wire on only one probe of the meter. Hold just the positive probe tip with your finger and thumb and watch it. Well, at least you have a spare TCM.
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Glad that fixed it. It probably took less time to change the Sol. than checking ohms on the wires and connectors. I'm curious, what is the ohms on the Sol. you took out?
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I'm not much help on newer stuff, we have a 95 and 97 2.2 RHD Legacy wagons used as mail cars. You pretty much covered things to look for. I have read that some leak oil on the spark plugs. I noticed that the sparkplug wires are blue. Maybe NGK? Our NGKs are blue. I have found (on ours) that somewhere over 280k miles that the "coating" wears off the honeycomb in the cats and sets a code. I installed spark plug extenders on the downstream O2 sensor. Maybe newer ones last longer.
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If you have a fuse in the FWD fuse holder, pull it. One of the terminals goes to ground. Check it for 0 ohms. With the key on, what is the voltage on the other terminal? The wiring diagram doesn't show the voltage, but that wire goes to the TCM. Since the TCM is a solid state device, I would expect the voltage to be between 5 and 12 volts. As you know, another wire from the TCM goes to the Duty C Solenoid. Since 2 different trannys have the same problem, I would check continuity on those wires per the code 79 diagnostic. Keep in mind that if the wire going from the TCM to the Duty C Sol. is shorted to ground somewhere it could burn out that output transistor in the TCM.
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Doing that puts the trans in Limp Home Mode. It will give you 3rd and Reverse (if both are mechanically ok). That is the default mechanical when there is no electrical control. In the FSM, Automatic transmission and differential pdf file, page 98 has the procedure to check for Trouble Code 79. I saw in one manual that the TCM can send a varying amount of voltage 0 to12 or 12 to 0 volts to the Duty C Solenoid to gradually vary the amount of pressure. So, it is not always instant on or off.
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The FSM says between 10 and 17 ohms for the duty C solenoid. One of the manuals calls it Duty Transfer Solenoid. Go here and download the FSM in one zip file. https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals- Or, you can go here and download individual sections of the FSM. (click Parent Directory to go back) http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/1999-2002/Service Manual 1/
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Part names. I find it amusing when looking through some of the FSMs and see what "they" name some of the parts. Completely different from what I grew up with.
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That is a handy tool at certain times. In his example of testing a 12v motor circuit, I would use a volt meter, neg. connected to a good ground and pos. to each terminal of the motor (one side at a time). Low or no voltage both sides bad power source. 12v both sides, bad ground. 12v one side, no voltage other side, open motor.
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That is because when fuse 12 blew the fuel pump relay coil did not have power to run the pump. Using the FSM, look up each item on your list powered by fuse 12. Two of the lines are FB31 and FB32 that feed different devices. Find the connector numbers. Example: The TCM has multiple connectors and you will see the power wire goes to Pins A18 and A19. For this one, scroll down a few pages and you will see pics of the connectors. Connector A is B54. When you look at Security, the Body Integrated Unit is at the bottom of that page. When you have the connector numbers, go to the Wiring Harness Sections and it will show you where those connectors are located. I would print those pages. You will be able to follow the harness from those connectors back to the fuse box looking for shorts to the body or brackets. Also look for places that are cut open or maybe squashed. You can unplug all of those connectors and see if the fuse blows when you turn the key on. If it does, then the short is in the harness somewhere. Since you gave the ECM it's own power source, when you are done, the ECM will have codes that you will have to clear.
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Good to hear it is running great. You said timing belt pully. That is a toothed sprocket. Did you mean the serpentine belt pully (harmonic balancer)? For that, normally, the crank is not harmed, just the inside of the pully. The key chews away the inside of the pully. I replace our harmonic balancer with Dorman and they work good. The bolt requires lock-tight put on the threads and be torqued to specs or it may loosen up. I made a tool to hold the pully and get the proper torque.
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Yep, the FSM calls them lateral links, but when you go shopping they are called suspension control arms. At least we know they are the same.
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The rear tires should be very close to 0 degrees toe in. With the tires on the ground, get someone to help with a measuring tape and measure between the front and rear of the rear tires. Keep the tape as high and straight as possible at the front of the tire, then use the same height at the rear of the tire. Hold the end of the tape in the outer groove of one tire and read the measurement to the outer groove on the other tire. The two measurements should be the same. If the measurements are different, one side or both sides have worn lateral link bushings. Wear or softness in the front or rear lateral link bushings will cause sway. It lets the tire toe in or toe out on its own. The front lateral link inner bushing has an adjustment washer for toe adjustment. The outer connection looks like a tie rod end. Check it for looseness.