Chef

This all depends on the trim level of impreza you have - base models are softer than the legacy, while RS front springs are stiffer. Rear sedan springs are way too soft for the rear wagon suspension, and the impreza rear wagon springs are a bit soft for a rear legacy wagon. It will however all bolt up, provided you have the front upper spring seats for the impreza to put on the legacy (tapered springs I believe), and washers to fit the rear. Check out more info here. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=2153 http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=19316

How about for the 99 OB Legacy? I've found a pair of rear struts I'd like to install on my 92 legacy wagon, but they seem VERY long (granted, the vehicle was on blocks with the wheels off). I wouldn't mind raising my rear an inch, but I'm afraid it might be more than that!

Wasn't there an issue with the automatic causing it to have difficulties engaging into drive during this period of vehicle? Something not too drastic or expensive?

Okay, the car did this again yesterday. Went to start it, and I suppose I backed off on the starter because I thought it had engaged. Noticed it hadn't, resumed cranking, the cranking sounded more muted and slightly slower than normal (I don't think for lack of juice). The engine starts with a bit of gas, but idles rough and vibrates the whole car significantly. As it always does after sitting for a couple of hours, the idle begins at about 1500 or so, and slowly backs down to the normal 750. I let it sit for a bit, and the idle smooths out gradually after a couple of minutes to the point where everything is fine again. I stress that it was not idling low or anything, just vibrating oddly. What the heck is this? i've never experienced this in a vehicle before. BTW, this does not trigger the CEL.

I gotta admit though, there would be something cool about a lifted SVX. But in the end lowering it might be a better idea.

Outer CV boot isn't too bad to replace. Only thing you need to make sure of is that the joint is still fine. If it hasn't been torn long and there is still a lot of grease in there it should be ok. Just do a search for CV boot replacement on the net to find out more specific details. I don't believe there's anything special about replacing the boot on a subaru. Good luck.

Okay dokay - thanks for that! Chef

Yes I know I keep answering myself, but what can you do? So I called KYB in Illinois, and the guy there told me the 95 struts probably do not fit into the 92 rear knuckle. But he said it was because the the newer ones bolts "onto" the knuckle while the older ones bolted "into" the knuckle. My haynes manual does not distinguish between them. Maybe I misunderstood. He also said the perch on the 92-94 strut sits an inch higher than the 95-99 strut (or wait - was that the other way around?). He also said the lower spring seat "appears" the same, but could be slightly different. He was careful not to commit to any answer without properly checking things out, which I thought to be very professional of him. So the struts for the 95-99 probably won't fit into the knuckle for a 90-94, and a 92-94 strut seat MAY accomodate the 95 spring. So a combination of 95 spring/upper seats MAY work with a 92-94 legacy/93-01 impreza rear strut. You know, considering my damn suspension seems to be wokring fine for some reason now I'm tempted to say screw it for now. This is fun, but becoming a pain.

KYB lists the top mounts as the same all the way to 2001 for the legacy. The front springs are the same according to the whiteline/PDM racing website for 90-99 legacy. They don't distinguish between 2wd and awd models. http://www.pdm-racing.com/products/subaru_corner.html However, the rears list different springs for the rear on a 95-99 than the 90-94. I don't know if this is just a different spring rate or a different sized spring. These are for lowering springs though, not sure if that makes a difference. I guess what it comes down to is if all the top mounts are the same, it doesn't matter which spring/perch I have in there provided the perch fits the spring, right? Then, I need to ensure I have struts that fit the knuckle. The fronts will not be a problem - all numbers are the same for that. But the rear strut part #s differ for the springs and struts from a 90-94 and 95-99, both for 4wd and 2wd. So this indicates to me that even if I get awd struts, they may not fit the rear steering knuckle (or maybe the lower spring seat is at a different height). Well, guess I'll find out soon.

Should I be concerned that the KYB GR-2 strut part numbers for 95/96 legacy is different from the 92-94 strut? Fine, it work at the top, but will it attach to the steering knuckle alright? Also should I be concerned that the struts for the awd differ from the 2wd? The donor car is a 2wd I believe, mine is awd.

Interesting this is noted, because although the lighter works, when I plug in my cell phone charger it won't power up. The charger worked fine on my last vehicle. Anyone have a clue why? Is this normal?

Get one of those stripped screw removal bit sets from Sears or some other hardware place, and try those. Or can you grip the top with vice grips? Definitely use some penetrating oil to help.

Considering everything involved with the tranny swap, it might be a wise idea to put out the engine at the same time and put some work into it. Replace timing belt, oil pump, water pump, cam seals, ead-gaskets, piston ring/guide seals, etc. Early I know, but while you're at it... If you want to keep the engine and beef it up as NA, port the intake and maybe put in a mroe aggressive cam. May put in some higher compression pistons too. Means 91 octane for sure after that though. If you'd rather blow it, look for a low compression supercharger kit. If you lower your compression enough and retard the timing a bit, you might be able to get by on 87 octane (but better off with 91). Either that or consider a swap to a turbo engine. Then put in a lighter flywheel, with a better clutch to handle the torque. But, this is getting way ahead of yourself.

Well, two of the struts are kablooey. I'm still picking up all the components I'll need though. Unfortunately it means I'll need to use a spring compressor now to put different struts in. I'm scared stupid of compressing springs I must confess. The rotors look fairly rusty, but should ok with machining.

You want the best place or the cheapest place? The best place for parts is always the dealer if you're looking for the original.

I've never had the need for the pullers. Just make sure you're grabbing the boot and not the wire itself, and pull and twist at the same time. Pull hard - they'll come off with a pop. Similarly, when putting the new ones on, push hard while grasping the boot and make sure it "pops" on.

These come with the mounts too - the guys at this place are the best I've ever seen at the wreckers before, and seem pretty happy to have someone take the parts of this car off their hands. It was a flood damaged car that was in good shape beforehand, so the struts may very wel be in good shape. The guy there though was fairly adamant that the struts won't match my car. I told him numerous people here agree that as long as the mounts are changed, there should be no problem. This is because my car was made oct 91, and apparently has the setup used for the 91 models. But, since it's the air suspension anyways, and I'm putting in the new mounts, I don't see why it should be a problem. he said I could return them if they won't fit. He also said that the front rotors for the 95 were in good shape - I need new front rotors, so I may pick these up if they're cheap and not really rusted.

Shouldn't be any more difficult than putting in a 2.5 I believe. But hey, while you're looking, you should consider a 2.2 turbo if you can find one. more powerful than the 2.5 plus more reliable.

That may have been the case at the time for a dealer (and even then highly exaggerated), but certainly isn't now. Check out VWvortex- many guys there have changed their 1990-94 auto passats over to manual trannies, due to a horrible auto on these cars. For under $1500 in most cases. In fact, for even less than $1000 for those who do much of the work themselves. Now granted the BAJA would be a lot more difficult due to a more complicated ECU/electronic system, but certainly wouldn't be astronomically difficult or expensive, especially with used parts. Also, selling your baja now for a manual one would probably be a lrage mistake - the money you'd lose through depreciation would certainly cost more than the amount to swap trannies, and you'd be getting a car you have no idea how it was treated. I say go for the swap, and plan early. The tranny isn't probably unique to the baja, and same goes for many other associated components. Hunt them done from wreckers, one piece at a time, then set up a mechanic willing to do the work for you if not yourself. Good luck!

Most decent small shops should carry rebuilt half-shafts. If you let them install them, they'll often give a 90 day warranty. If you do it yourself, probably not.

Excellent - thanks for the info.

I'd just replace both front ball joints at the same time then. First, you've probably loaned a pickle-fork, so make good use of it. Second, if you're paying $50 for an alignment, you might as well make sure you're not going to need to get another one some time soon. Therefore check all suspension and drive-axle components well while doing this, including tie-rod ends, struts, and CV boots.

I need to replace my front rotors (warped apparently?!). Canadian Tire quoted me $93 each!!! Someone I know who works for a Saturn dealership may be able to find me cheaper ones (wholesale price).

Well okay. Called a wrecker in Peterborough, they have a 95 legacy wagon in the yard. They're going to yank all four strut assemblies for me, $50 (cdn) a pop. Claims they should probably be functional. They do refunds on defective items, but we'll see. Should have them for pick-up tomorrow. So these should literally bolt right in to replace the air struts. I will remove the compressor/drier and air tank when I do the struts to shave the weight. If I remove the relay for the compressor system, should this prevent the height light from flashing? BTW, sorry totech, but this is a good deal on struts with components designed to fit my vehicle. Unless your impreza struts are in good shape, and the ones i purchase not, I don't think I'll need them. Thanks anyways through. P.S. Anyone interested in some used air struts? 3 are for certain functioning okay (LF, LR, RR), the RF may or may not be leaking (doubtful). I believe it may be the solenoid valve malfunctioning, but the piece itself is over $100 (american) new and may or may not be the problem.

You'd need to remove the starter first. Might be easiest to have it replaced with a new one (or rebuilt?).