Chef

Unless a MT is heavily abused, there should be no problems with it lasting the life of the engine. The clutch will wear, as it is designed for. Most of that wear occurs after starting in first from a stop as the clutch is ridden and from downshifting. However with the amount highway mileage you're doing, I suspect the clutch would last much longer than the "normal" life of a clutch. Suabru transmissions are about as good as they come. I've got about 250 000 km on my AT (original to the car), and it seems fine yet. Some shifts arre a little harsher, but not excessively. Personally I'd get an MT if it was mostly highway, better mileage, more freedom over your power band, and it's more fun.

Well, turns out it the problem was the threaded fitting that tightens the axles end into the front diff. When the guy put the axles in they replaced those seals, and didn't tighten them appropriately. Hopefully this will fix the problem. (yes I know I am repeating what I wrote in an earlier thread, but it's relevant in both! )

This is good advice regardless, but it seems to me that the problem still exists - the difference in circumference is still an issue, and therefore should still cause binding.

Look on the left side of the crank-casefor a 1/2 or 5/8" rubber hose connected to a portion threaded into the wall itself (the PCV valve). The PCV valve should have a 19 mm beveled hex portion. Pull the hose off the valve, and unscrew it. Screw the new one in (carefully!), and reattach the hose. Voila!

I just got back from the shop that put my reman CV axles in two months ago, been hearing a knocking from the drivers side outer. Turns out the portion that is threaded in on the front diff around the race was not tightened properly, as evidenced by the large amount of play in the axles when moved up and down. The guy tightened them up, and hopefully things are ok now.

That's interesting nipper - do you think that this could also be a culprit in the shaking while stopped in drive and with the foot on the brake? I had my CV axles replaced about 2 months ago, and one is now going again (outer drivers, only when cold it makes a racket during hard acceleration and left turns). In the last month or so I've noticed the car begin to shake a worse while stopped (although sometimes it's worse than others). I wonder if it's related? Well, I'm getting the guy who did it to change it tomorrow, so we'll find out.

I would mention here that the bolts on soobs are all metric to my knowledge, and it's probably best to use the metric sockets to avoid stripping the bolts!

What is the best way to check for play? Should I try pulling on the shaft in the either direciton of the joints, up and down, both, etc? I'm trying to recall what I tried last time. And what exactly would constitute play? An audible click, a looseness when pulling? Sorry if these sound like silly questions, I just want to be sure. I always appreciate your help there nipper! Thanks. Damn car. Engine runs nice, trans shifts good. If I can inexpensively sort out the poor handling (probably struts), odd excessive vibrations (possibly driveshaft), and exhaust leaks, I may actually get some more life out of this guy. So happy yesterday with her, running around town after a foot of snow was a piece of cake!

Hmm, I need to check mine too. I've been experiencing worsening vibrations recently, and when I last checked my driveshaft (a couple of weeks ago) there may have been some play - I'm not sure how much is normal.

Problem is there is no NAPA near to me here - the nearest is about 20 km away, not worth the drive. I agree - after reading it over, I definitely rethunk my previous fram position, although the fram tough-guard is considered not bad.

Sounds to me like you might be leaking gas. Check your lines out, and aroudn the fuel tank.

I'd check the driveshaft u-joints and centre bearing, some play may cause resonance at that speed.

I kep switching them up, last one I used was a Fram Tough-guard, which are considered much better than the other fram filters. It is hard to find anything but fram around here. Quaker State, one of the only other choices at major stores, is aparently made by fram. I don't want to go to the dealer just for a filter. But, I noticed recently here that the Valvoline Max filters are available nw -and made by purolator. I am switching to 5w30 synthetic soon and plan to use one of these filters. BTW, I have used fram numerous times in the past and never had a problem, although the quality is more the issue I believe. Seems that virtually everyone agrees fram are of poor quality in general.

The battery is nearly brand-new and high amperage, and I cleaned the terminals thoroughly when I installed it. The other day I poked around the engine and trans mounts, prying with a crowbar. There was some give, but not extensive. My leaking exhaust may contribute. I'm beginning to think my worn front struts may even contribute. Perhaps a combination of exhaust leak, worn front struts, and wobbling pulley may all be increasing vibrations. When accelerating, especially on a hll, the whole car vibrates, coming from the front somewhere but shakes the gas pedal, steering wheel, under my seat, even the doors. It's getting worse too.

I used 10% ethanol gas for a spell a few years ago, since it had a 91 octance reading for the same price as 87. I found for the same period of time I got about 5-10% worse mileage. ethanol returns less power by weight than gasoline. But, maybe it was just me.

It may well be a coincidence, however since I've noted the apparent wobble, my car has been progressively idling with more and more vibration while stopped in drive and with my foot on the brake. This has always been there, but undeniably more pronounced now. Putting the car in neutral, and therefore decreasing the load on the engine, smooths it out nicely. This vibration also seems noticabley increased while climbing hills and whatnot, although an exhaust leak around the trans mount likely affects this as well. I'm telling you, I'm about THIS close to buying a newer car and giving up on the old soob. Not that I can really afford it mind you...

Well, it's been about a week and with the tightening of the belts the squeal is gone. Hopefully not to return. Here's a thought though. If the pulley is beginning to wobble, for whatever reason, could this be partially responsible for an increase in vibrations through the car, particularily when in drive and stopped with a foot on the brake?

I didn't doubt you, no worries.

According to Josh it does serve to dampen vibration - as why they used rubber in it. But perhaps it has a limited use for this.

That "conditioner" is a scam to get people to use the dealer for maintenance service instead of doing their own or going somewhere less expensive. Then they'll justify fixing the HG based on creating a customer that will go to the dealer for everything else. If someone buys the car, and the fault is known, they shouldn't have to use the dealer for service to get the same fair treatment as those who don't. Not trying to be hostile or anything, just that the actions of SOA ensure that I will not want to buy a new Subaru when I have the money.

Are you talking about the ball joint or the tie-rod end? You "could" replace just the boot (if you find someone selling them), but chances are if the rubber boot it torn, the joint itself is screwed. Just replace the whole tie-rod end then (or ball joint as it may be). Also if the rumbling occurs during braking, it's liekly a rotor/pad problem.

First of all, just replace your ball joints anyways. They're not too old, but they're cheap to repalce, and you're already removing them. Second, I just did my ball joints, and employed a couple of tricks to get them out of the knuckle. Remove the cotter pin on the base of the balljoint stud. Now loosen the castle nut, and back it off. But make sure it's still well attached, only that it WILL come off when you're ready. Then I'd suggest removing the bolt that connects the sway bar and end-link. with this out of the way, the control arm is free to drop down. With a pry bar, position the end between the knuckle and the control arm, and pry down on the control arm. If this does not work, I;d also suggest trying the following. Get a piece of metal rod or pipe about 3/4" or thicker and place it upright against the control arm near the ball joint. Then use a heavy hammer, preferably 3 lbs (I used a 5 lb sledge:grin: ) and giver a whack or five. Should come out of the knuckle nicely. To get it out of the control arm remove the castle nut and try whacking it on the base with the hammer. Probably won't work, then try smacking it on the top with the hammer (hey, you're replacing it anyways, right? ). Should knock it out or at least loose, then try whacking the bottom again. You can also use a pickle fork to get it out of the control arm too. BTW, get some real penetration fluid, not WD40. I use liquid wrench, I hear PB blaster is good (not available in Canada I think).l Good luck!

Never done it myself, but replacing the rack is a bit of a pain. You'll need to remove the Y downpipe (well... probably) and the front cross member. Then detach the linkage at the upper u-joint. Not a complicated job, but definitely tedious considering. Several people have elected to do this rather than replace both the inner and outter tie rods, and the rack is liekly worn anyways and ordering a rebuilt rack may be cheaper.

Great information all, thanks everyone. So far no repeats of the squealing. Hopefully this remains the case, but not holding my breath for now.

What would the consensus here for a 5w50 synth. I travel highway a lot, but needs good cold start capability. Is 50 weight too high? Nevermind, think I'll try the 5w30 synth instead. Reading up says that the 50 is achieved through heavy polymer additions, and a lower base weight oil.