Chef

Yup - much easier with the wagon than the sedan (no seat removal). Lift the carpet and foam, and look at the right hand side near the seat. You'll see a metal plate screwed down. Remove the plate, disconnect the connectors, and the fuel pump should be able to be unscrewed and lifted out. I believe that's all there is too it, someone correct me if I'm off please.

Mine is a brand-new battery, and I cleaned the cables well with a wire brush before attaching them. That darn new 1000 amp 875 CCA battery sure makes that new champion starter start the car with authority! But unfortunately does nothing for the lowered intensity. No matter, grounds will be cleaned soon and possibly even rewired. With red, just to tick everyone off

Dude, thanks much for this tidbit - I am making this my next weekend project!

Whew, thanks everyone for the confirmation. I tend to get a little paranoid about my sube, and every little noise, vibration, and odd behaviour instinctively makes me cringe, fearing the worst is about to happen. Especially since torque bind has surfaced, I was contemplating whether it's worthwhile to replace the solenoid (and possibly clutch packs) or put on a used tranny. I would LOVE a 5 spd, but it would be prohibitively expensive. Since my tranny then doesn't seem to be necessarily in trouble, I may replace the solenoid (ensuring it tests defective first). I love my sube, but she's been making me a wreck recently (not to be confused with being in a wreck) with all the little and not so little problems.

Sounds like the wrong transmission sent to them. The 4EAT is a subaru tranny only I'm sure.

My understanding is that fuel pumps tend to die suddenly rather than weaken slowly. But, this may not always be the case. It would sounds to me that whatever the pump uses to draw gas from the tank is higher than it ought to be, and therefore not getting gas when the tank is low/tilted. Maybe unfasten the fuel pump connectors and pull it out and inspect it for damage/wear.

Definitely not the Solenoid then, as it's working fine. Probably not associated connections than either. I dunno...

Isn't it possible to bypass that through the shift box too? I'll double check my haynes tomorrow. I'd double check for those clicks, definitely sounds like a starter solenoid issue if present. Also, check battery to starter connections.

I had mine flushed recently, hasn't seemed to help the torque bind issue. However, mine is also accompanied by the flashing power light (16 times) indicating it is probably the solenoid c. Your post isn't clear - you haven't changed the tranny fluid since you've owned the vehicle - when was that? Regardless, flushing the tranny will almost certainly NOT fix your problem. It must either be a faulty solenoid, a destroyed clutch pack, a driveshaft issue, or a rear diff problem. Test to see if the solenoid is working first. Most likely you'll need to replace the clutches and solenoid. Good luck

I'm pretty certain mine has engaged even at very slow speeds.

I've had a similar problem intermittently for some time now. It occurred randomly, but generally only if the car had been sitting for some time (and when the car was sitting level). It would require extensive cranking, and a bit of gas feathering, then it would idle roughly for a short while before smoothing out. My fuel filter was replaced less than a year ago. I believe the engine was actually flooding (strong smell of gas), even when not touching the gas pedal. I'm still at a loss over it.

I've noted a bit of a whine myself, mostly from me having to dish out all of my cash to fix my car recently.

Where are you getitng the motor from? I may or may not need a used tranny in the future...

I set an appointment for my car to have a 4 wheel alignment, as I recently had four struts installed (air to spring conversion) and two front CV axles. It is generally fine, but on the highway it tends to get a bit loose at high speeds, usually when there is a notable crosswind. It was hell out there today, high winds and freezing rain, and the car was all over the place. PLus the steering seems to intermittently feel tight and and resistant or loose and leary.

Not on this specifically. He's already covered virtually all that I've ever read here on the topic. bridorf I'm not completely clear - you DID replace duty solenoid C?

Since I've only noted it in older cars, perhaps it is a sign of a somewhat weakened alternator, but as long as it is a mild effect I don't think there's a problem. mine has been doing this since i bought it, and my battery charges fine.

I'm going to give those Xtra-vision bulbs a whirl, seems to be a good response on them and they're only about 1.5X more expensive than regular lights. Given I drive on twisty highways at night, it is a bit of reassurance.

Sorry, I read it over quickly and just noted the turbo part, missing the "non".

I don't think so, seems quite smooth otherwise. It shifts down a bit hard if I hammer the pedal, but that's normal. I'll check it more conciously on the way to work tomorrow (1 hr drive, 95% highway - yay).

I've noticed somewhat recently my auto tranny in my 1992 Legacy 240K km seemed to need to warm up a bit on the highway before the OD would engage - not a big deal. I bought it last feb/march, and never really experienced winter with it before. But today I noticed that it did not want to engage 4th gear until I'd been driving at least for a few minutes. It was fairly cold today (about -15°C), but I found it a little disconcerning that at hit nealy 4000 rpm at 100 km/h and wouldn't shift up until I slowed down to take a turn and sped up again. Afterwards it went in and out of 4th just fine once warmed. It has not done this before to my knowledge. How concerned should I be? I recently had a transmission flush in an attempt to kill off the slow onset of torque-bind (BTW, the FWD fuse doesn't seem to make a difference). The old fluid was getting light, but not really brown or burnt.

Turbo Spooling?

Quite normal, has happened several cars that I've owned. If there was a problem it wouldn't likely be the battery anyways, it would be the alternator (e.g. if the dimming was severe). When the engine is running above idle the alternator produces more power, and is able to more than meet the needs of he accessories. when at idle, the alternator is more taxed, and less power is available for the accessories. That's it.

I second this notion. Plugged fuel filter are a very common cause of this kind of problem.

Good to hear. Definitely get that air filter swapped, sometimes makes a big difference. Could also be a bit of water in the gas, try a drying agent like HEET.

I've wanted to do this, but been afraid of acciently sucking water into it somehow through splashup or whathaveyou. Is this unreasonable? I would never entertain using my car for any off-roading purposes (it wouldn't get far).