dmeucci

Update- I changed the Coolant Temp Sensor and read the different opinions on burping. Also wanted to check if the thermostat is stuck open or closed. I ran the motor and both upper and lower hoses were warm, the upper warmer. Heater blows hot too. Then a CEL came on saying PO325, and PO115. The 325 is engine knock sensor. I took that off and there is a little hair line crack. So will replace that. But the 115 doesn't make sense as I just replaced. So will change the knock sensor and then do the burping....but PO115? I hope goes away after the other work.

leak was at front near radiator. Maybe a pressure release? I'll look up the proper burping of the system. Wow and I thought I was done with that with my kid!

'95 Legacy 2.2 manual wagon 225K miles Hello all- I recently as of yesterday change the Coolant Temp Sensor from a PO115 CEL. Today while driving 6 miles into town downhill when I came to a stop light I noticed the dash engine temp wash all the way up to hot. I then parked and opened the hood. I hear the coolant gurgling. It is still clean, the coolant and no sign of engine oil in it. I had the radiator check and flushed 10k miles ago. On my way back home uphill I turned on the heater fan and it blows hot air. But this time no high temp reading. One other time a couple of weeks ago this happened and I noticed some radiator fluid coming out the bottom front passenger side. Also the coolant return on the passenger side was pulsating, that is the big hose. Anyway not CEL today and it the high temp is intermitent. Thanks for your ideas!

Sounds about right for the hard starting. I did run a wire from +battery to push button to starter solenoid. I will look into the pig tails off the male starter solenoid for the feed back. Will keep you posted. Thanks-

I have an EJ22 '95 Legacy L wagon that I installed a push button starter in. That works great!! However I got a P1100 CE Code. I have read that is apart of the IG switch. I live in Ca and need to smog my car. So how do I fix this code and still keep the push button since that is the only was I can start the car now?? Thanks Team*

That seems like an easy solution. But if I am using a relay that has four post I am not sure what goes to what then. It seems I would not need the relay and just put a push button directly between the +battery and the starter solenoid.........right?

pole #87 is directly connected to the starter solenoid....... I am awaiting for some 45amp fuse links that I had to order....they come in next week monday. After I get them how or what would I check to see if it is grounding before the relay?? Because I cut the yellow on black IG wire and use that to power the relay would that mess up the ground?? The relay is ground off of pole #85

I decided to put in a push button starter for reasons you can follow on the EJ22 Sudden No Start thread. So here is where I am now. I cut the yellow wire from the IG Switch and ran that into a 40am push button. I then ran that to the terminal #86 on the relay. I then ran the #85 to ground. The relay is under the drivers side dash board. The ground I used is a bolt that holds up the clutch lever that looks like it is attached to the car frame. Maybe I should use something else?? I have a wire from +Battery through a wire fuse 30am that then goes through the firewall into the #30 of the relay. I then have a wire that goes from #87 back through the firewall to the starter solenoid. So all was good for a day and then I noticed when I pushed in the starter I would get a small shock. So I soldered (sp?) the wires where they connect to the various eye and female connectors. The I turned the key and I blew the 40amp starting system fuse in the main fuse box. So I am stumped. I have heard from a few folks that they would put the relay under the hood instead of the dashboard, so I can change that. What about the grounds?? Where is a good place to put those?

I figured I needed somewhat of a higher amp start button because 45 amps are going to the IG Switch. I measured the continuity of the IG Switch and it all works well. I also measured the clutch switch and that too worked well. What does not is the female connector to the starter solenoid. So I bypass that section of the start system..... So hence the need to get the starter to start directly from the battery. I guess I am not following your recomendations MilesFox.

So I already hooked it up this way. #30 is now + Battery through 30 amp fuse 5 inches from post. Then through firewall using the fan control hole to the #30 #87 goes to starter via firewall same hole... Push Botton starts her right up......now I wonder how long till I need to replace the copper contance in the starter solenoid. Thanks for the support on this one. I'll report any changes from this conversion.

OK I have decided to install a push button starter. Here is what I have and what I will do. I have a 40amp relay SPST that I will install under the dash. I will connect the blk w/yellow wire from the ignition switch before the connector to to the starter button and then to #86. I will use the ground wire from that IG as well and connect to #85? I have 12ga wire that I will run from the + battery through a 30amp fuse through the firewall to the relay and connect to #87. I will connect a wire to the starter via #30 going back through the firewall. I am not able to use the old female connector so I have a new one. 86 connect to start button. I also ground the start button. I am bypassing the clutch switch. I will leave the cruise control cancel attached. Will that still work. Any thoughts? Thanks Group!!

Yep I have a helper turning the key in the start position. I am in the engine bay looking at the volt meter hooked to the wire that goes into the "S" terminal..... Anyway I still do not know why the volts are not getting to the Starter??

I get continuity through the clutch switch.....and I can hot wire start the starter from the battery through the "S connector on back of Solenoid". I do not get volts though from the clutch switch to the "S connector" Is there another replay or something between these two? I probably will just install a push button start into the dash but would like to know why I am not getting any volts from the female connector that goes onto the back of the starter solenoid. Thanks again*

Update for 10-29. I checked the continuity of the clutch ignition switch and it works. I also was able to check the continuity of the ignition switch and that works too in all three positions. I hot wired the starter directly from the battery to see if the solinoied works and it starts up. I was not able to get a volt reading from the wire that goes into the starter.....So that is why I thought it was farther back like the clutch or ignition switches. Right now I am having my battery charged. It just read 350 Cranking Amps and 12 something Volts. I am able to run the fan, radio, and windows but not start it......All lights work too. Except the hazards.... Something does click when I turn to start. Is there a different way to test the line from the clutch switch to the starter?

I am able to turn key into Accessory and my radio works, On and I can turn on my fan and Start I do hear a click. I hot wired from my battery to my starter and it turned on. I did not have someone holding the clutch in...it was in neutral. So here is where I am at..... I used my voltmeter. I checked the single wire going into the starter and nothing, someone else started it with clutch in while I measured. I checked the Clutch Pedal Ignition and nothing... I checked the Ignition switch terminal and with the key in those three position and I get nothing....when i plug it back in I get the Acc, On working. So can I duduce that the Start does to work within the Igintion switch and I should order a new one? I realize that with the terminal side I should get some reads comming off the Ignition switch but the start position many just not work.