gbrand

perhaps cooling fan(s) not working. On my 91 there are 2 fans, one to cool controlled by thermostat and the second comes constant when the A/C is on. Maybe someone with a newer model can comment on how your car is setup. Knock sensor fairly common issue, do a search in this forum and you should get lots of info

Drove by the Hurst location this am. Lot full of cars and "Now Open" sign prominantly displayed. Didn't stop in maybe they will have grand opening with free hot dogs, cokes, and WRX's.....

pretty sure 19mm. I usually use an open/closed end wrench as it is more accessable than a socket but am almost positive is 19mm, changed mine about 3 weeks ago.

it looks like the ones that were on my 80 wagon-of course that is memory a few years old.

stuck disty is a pain-and with not having to adjust timing every few thousand miles like you did with points they do tend to get frozen in place. Ahile I have not had a car specificly like yours, I have had a number of stuck distys on a number of cars. 2 suggestions. 1) when engine is hot/warm, spray penetrating oil on disty housing where it enters engine. Idea is engine will be hot and to cool housing so it contracts a little, and allows oil into seam. Then beat to try to rotate, try both directions to break loose. 2) try to pry/beat UP as if you were going to remove the disty from engine-maybe can expose part of mating surface, get some oil on it, push it back down, repeat if needed. I had to do that on my old 84 merc to free it up-timing was fine, but to change ignition module had to rotate disty to get to screws I think. good luck and let us know

yeah, have been meaning to start a thread asking the same question- what are the pros/cons of the H6? Has taken on new interest for me as in 5 years the Tribecas should be far enough down the depreciation curve to be in my affordabilty range. So they ALL require premium fuel? (bummer). Any other issues/comments from the experts?

As I used to tell my employees in a very customer service industry-bend over backwards for everyone, bend over forward for no one. I apply the same to my personnal dealings as well.....

Is it your CO or CO2 that is too high? One thing that reallly helps on these emissions problems is to post the test results, with limits, for all the tests run, not just the part that fails. The gasses that are measured, RPM's, etc. give a much more complete picture of how the engine is running, and requirements vary by state and/or county. For example, my recent go around on my Legacy http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41006 the high NOx and very low HC and CO were an indication of a lean mixture and/or higher than normal temperature. Up until a couple years ago they did not test for NOx here so the car always passed with flying colors! On your car, if it has points, i would definitely make sure they are adjusted correctly for dwell and timing. use a dwell meter and timing light.

It could be air in cooling system(search this forum for air bleeding), defective water pump, thermostat not opening or installed upside down, etc. But I agree first make sure it is really overheating and not a gauge/sending unit/wiring problem. I had an alomost new 87 Aerostar as a company vehicle back when, and the guage itself(not sending unit) would go from a normal reading to slowly pegging to over hot. Of course I would pull off the highway NOW and wait for it to cool down for several hours, and then procced. I did notice one time that the engine was cold enough to lay may hand on and guage read pegged. Could smack the dash HARD and get it to read normal again, tested the sending unit it was OK. Another fine FORD product. Let us know what they find out....

Wife's car sitting in driveway at 249,998 miles-taking daughter to V Ball practice at 545 in morning will push it over the 250K mark. FWD, non-turbo MT 4 door. Have owned since 97(with 110K miles), have done normal maintainence stuff for a car of that age/miles: Brakes, radiator, struts, clutches, A/C work, CV's, muffler, timing belts/water pump. Plus regular fluid/filter changes and plugs/wires. No engine or transmission work other than valve cover gaskets. Not super pretty but at least no rust problems in Texas, and it starts and drives everyday. Just passed emission test on second try, each year I say "well we'll keep it for one more year-or deer, whichever comes first"

Thermostat housing where LOWER radiator hose attaches, kinda opposite old american cars. Prolly easier to get at from underneath not a bad job. Do a search on the board here and you will find lots of info. see pix http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1c/60/3a/0900823d801c603a.jsp

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=200310552&R=200310552 Unfortunately is a whole set but does have the T70. Looking on net, may be a somewhat hard item to find. let us know what you find out Any chance to borrow a T70 aand replace the plug with a conventional hex head?

Yeah, the fault indicates the heater ciruit is open, such as if the plug was left off, or shorted, unlikely but wires could have gotten pinched. Your sensor probabaly has 3 wires, 2 for the heater and one for the signal. If you unplug the sensor and measure the 2 heater wires(on the sensor side) with an ohmeter, it should read about 6 to 12 Ohms or so. If so then your heater sensor is fine and look at the wiring for damage. My guess is as mentioned previously the sensor was just not plugged back in. Even if it is pure coincidencal problem, since you just spent a decent chunk of change with this guy he should cut you slack on the repair.

Welcome to the board. While my sube is a 91, and has been the best/most reliable car I've driven, I'm sure you are looking at something a little newer. I have riden in a Forester for a week on a sales/demo trip, seemed to be fine. Depending on the vintage of used sube you end up looking at, do a search in this forum for head gaskets-some of the earlier versions of the 2.5 engines had issues. I don't have the details but the board does as far as years to watch out for. Timing belts are pretty easy to change, and there are some tips on other maintainance items to do whiile you are in there too. I have not heard of anyone having problems as long as they change them at recommended intervals(mine is 60K miles, not sure about the newer models. As far as A/C goes, mine will freeze your bass off in the Texas sun, was a roaster today in DFW for sure! Let us know what you decide to do and again, there is alot of informaion already posted on the board and helpful folks for things that aren't posted yet

I use "liquid teflon tape" stuff (can find in plumbing section at Home Repot or hardware store) on all threaded plugs. Prevents leaks, and keeps threads lubed to prevent siezing up.

not all legacy seats flip down-but are not bad to remove. The rear seat cushion is held down by 2 bolts, and then once out of the way the seat back comes out fairly easilily If you dont have amnual go to autozone.com, click on repair infor and navigate to the diagrams that show how the seats come out.

Mine(also 91 fwd Legacy) has been done twice-first by shop and second by me. I dropped transmission, dont think there was room to "slide back" like on some cars. Some on the board argue it is easier to pull the engine. Not really too bad a job, if you have a place, tools and can follow in a logical order the steps to do. I just used a standard clutch from Orielly.

and let us know how they handle it, and what was wrong. Good luck, too bad this happened

Is not really a bad job, at least on my 91 legacy 2.2, Chiltons and search on this board will give you more than enough information. Pulling the radiator not absolutly neccessary but gives you more working room. Just be methodical about what you take off and where it goes and you will be fine. The worst thing on mine the first time was that several of the "Dodge inserts", threaded inserts presses into the back side of the timing covers, turned in the plastic instead of letting the bolt unscrew. Just pulled them out and replaced with a longer bolt and nut.(I hear the other fix is to just use tie wraps!) Good luck and let us know how it comes out.

NEVER attempt to change plugs on an aluminum engine unless it is stone cold, other wise an open invite to screwed up threads and the nightmare that goes along with. Try again gently when cold, but if see any problems may just want to leave as is

92 is OBD1, so code numbers are different form OBDII. See Legacy777's home page for code reading procedure and definitions http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html Also search in the New Generation forum, the purge control solenoid is a common issue with these cars(I have a 91 Legacy)

i got mine for 91 legacy at Oriellys and replaced at 180K with timng belt. Think it was about 40 plus core but that was a couple years ago. Still doing fine at almost 250K.

Just got back from retest-PASSED, NOx down, HC and CO up but within limits NOx was 944(limit 970) on low speed (15mph) test but on high speed where I failed previously (25mph) was 832 (limit 878). HC was 105(limit 128) low speed and 49(limiit 128) at high speed. CO was 0.21(limit 0.71) low and 0.10(limit 0.69). I did use the RXP in about 8 gallons of gas and ran to near empty, then filled up with about 4 gallons before the test and made sure the car was FULLY warmed up inclduing idling in the parking lot for 20 minutes waiting my turn for testing. Next year, if the car is still around, I will do the SeaFoam, RXP, etc. before the first test. Thanks for everyones input, BTW the connectors on the CTS looked pristine, gold colored not usual corroded copper color that I expected.

When I am having a hard time or need interchange info I use the catalog at www.rockauto.com to see what is commonly available and/or get part numbers. I normally prefer to buy my parts over the counter as usually want them NOW but prices on rockauto look pretty good if you can wait for shipping.

That sucks BIGTIME! I am not an expert on welding or know one, but would try to find someone who is or a board member that has dealt with this before to evaluate the feasibility of repair. I would give the JB Weld a try, if nothing else it would be a heck of a lot less work than having to change the engine due to a broken casting. And the good side is that the engine ws still running when you toer down to replace the T belt I assume. Many years ago my sister had a chev truck in at dealer to diagnose a starter problem, and in changing the starter the morons broke one of the cast mounting flanges off the engine block. Solution was brand new Target Master GM engine and installation, on her bill of course! Old engine was traded to a shade tree mechanic who was able to weld a replacement mounting on to it and drop it in another vehicle. Of course that i a cast iron block. Good Luck!