gbrand

Well, i dont think his mode of attack is going to change at this point in the project! I did my 91 Legacy FWD a few months back, it was hard to get seperated but I jacked and pulled and eventually got about a 1/4 in crack in there. And carefully pried the trans loose, seemed to hang out the lower stud threads. Hate to sound too obvious, you did disconnect the shift linkage? Good luck and let us know

the latest from Subaru on towing.....Note the guidelines say recently revised http://www.subaru.com/owners/care/carcaretips/middle.jsp?pageID=towing

P-touch labels may stick if you cleansurface real well. IF you have to use a quik lube place talk to mgr/head shop tech-if they listen, they can make sure the job gets done right. If they don't listen, go elsewhere. While i have never paid anyone for an oil change, the place I take my cars to be inspected is a quicklube place, and the guy that owns it has 40 years experience running gas/service stations so I would trust him-based on seeing he and his crew work-if i needed to pay someone to do the stuff i normally do. I owned a merc station wagon with 2 oil drain plugs(due to oil pan hump over front croass member) for a while, often wondered if both got pulled during a "store bought" oil change. Signs to watch out for of damage? A Jiffy Lube sticker on the door jamb!(just kidding)

I dont know about this O2 sensor, but most seem to have the same thread-the same as the larger spark plugs used on many cars. I found out the hard way when the O2 sensor on my Nissan truck left half it's threads in the manifold, and I was able to use my spark plug thread chaser to clean/retap the hole. The point is, if that is the case for yours, a Spark plug non-fouler, available in the "Help" section of any autoparts store would do what you are looking for. Now, as far if it produces the desired result regarding getting rid of the code, I am not sure if that is going to help or not. If the sensor is defective it may need to be replaced-some sub's are under recall, let us know how you make out.

Thermostat is located by following LOWER radiator hose back to housing that is located on the bottom front of engine-opposite of older american cars. I replaced the radiator in my 91 this past fall, had split on the end wand leak was getting worse. New one was about 120 bucks from local radiator shop, much cheaper than from parts stores or other sources. Only problem I had was retapping the holes for the fans to bolt on, threads were full of paint, etc.

My opinions..... I have only used a dealer a couple times for service, never for my ru's. Not happy with the expereinces, and i think many chain and independent shops share some-but not all-of the problems. I thinks some dealerships would just as soon not have a service dept, thier business is selling cars and the service dept is required for warenty service, and to make money off owners for things beyond warrenty. Also a handy sales tool, your car requires $3000 work of work but hey, we'll make you a special deal to trade in for our new model...... As far as actually diagnosing and fixing problems, I think there are several problems. Daignosis is the difficult part, changing parts can be (and many times is) left to the semi-skilled. One the astronomical overhead rates that force shops to skimp on truly identifying the cause and effect relationship, and also many vehicles have neglected mainatainance so the filter changes, tune-ups,belt changes, etc. that get sold are needed, and many times solve problems. Second, since computer diagnosis/fault trees are available it is used as a substitute for actual diagnosis-read the codes, replace the parts, sent the customer on thier way, only to have the codes reappear because the problem was not fixed. No codes? You dont have a problem! And esp at dealers there is no incentive to stay current on older models, agian they expect to see only the newer stuff in thier shops. I know of a dealer that is close to 100 years old that trashes all parts for models over 10 years old! Even independent shops have problems too with older cars-my 73 maverick that had the exhaust torn up on gravel roads and welded back together about 100 times, was inspected in 1986 and i was told someone had cut the catylitic converter off because they saw pipe spliced into the exhaust. Cats didnt come out until 75, but the guy wouldnt listen. Or about 10 years ago was in a shop when a guy brought in a classic car for some work, and was told the tune up had to wait until tuesday-that is when the "old retired guy" came in for a day to help them out-and only he could tune up a car with points! When in college I felt I had to do my own work, for monetary reasons. I still feel that way, for lack of trust reasons, and feel much better knowing my cars inside and out, if it has a problem after 5 on friday or 1000 moles from home. Just my opinions......

Something sounds VERY screwy- Did ANYTHING happen before the alternator went dead? wreck, install stereo, or anything else? Looking for cause and effect relationship. Is the new alternator charging properly? And hate to say for sanity check is the Battery of proper polarity and installed correctly-I once bought a New battery and the thing had been assembled backwards inside, the termnal marked positive was actually negative! Drove us nuts until we threw a meter on it. If the alt and battery check out(suspect as they have been changed) , then a short in the wiring harness somewhere or the ignition switch sounds reasonable as far as letting power to the car with the key off. I would wiggle the key on and off to see if there was any change. Anoterh technique to isolate a chort is to pull ALL the fuses out , and replace one by one to see if you can isolate the circuit that is allowing power to enter the car's electrical system. Also, I have not had much problems with my 91 Legacy's Electricals, but is there a relay that is supposed to close when the isgnition is activated that might be stuck in the closed position? I don't know, I'll look at my Chiltons tonight when my wife gets home(the book is in the her car). Let us know further, the gears are clicking on what this could be

Usual suspects are tires, axles,and brakes. I know you have looked at/replaced most of these. I would also suspect Wheel bearing(loose), tie rod end or part of brakes not normally serviced. I had a noise in one side of my 80 wagon, seemed to be loose bushings for the caliper guidepins allowing it to vibrate and was worse in a turn. Does it make the noise if you run it on Jack stands and turn the wheel? One other possiblility is splines stripped in the hub, the hubs are usually made softer than the axle shafts. I had one of those on the rear of my 80. Noises like this can drive you nuts till you find the cause. Did the manual I sent help you with the '79? Good luck

This may or not be of any help, but on the 80 wagon I had I too had a mysterious leak that would get a small amount of water into the area behind the second seat. Finally traced it to the seal along the bottom of the side glass, ran a little black RTV along the outside to reseal the glass to the rubber seal and no more leak.

Glad to hear you got it running-when first read post was tempted to ask where you buried the boyfriend(just kidding). Certainly would look at Legacy777's page for instructions on re-learning the ECU at start up if had not done so already in documentation you have. Spent 1972-1984 in Missouri, still make it back couple times a year. Got my degree in Rolla, also where I convinced my older brother to buy the first Subaru I ever drove (a 77? 2 door) in 81 or so. I always wanted a Sub 4wd wagon to handle the winters on backroads up there, but wasnt able to get one till atfer I moved to Texas and picked my 80 up in 88. After I drove it in snow and ice I REALLY kicked myself for not having picked one up....... Good luck

yeah, may be interested in switch. PM or email details gwbrand@swbell.net at 239K was not going to go to dealer for new part... thanks...

OK, finally decided to dive into intermittent/non functioning window switches on 91 Legacy, despite lingering cold and almost immobile knee, as it was causing static eminating from wife unit. First, cursed designer and bought ratcheting screwdriver thing to take care of the 2 screws pointing INWARD that hold door handle on. So first removed driver's side, and took master switch assy to work bench for disassy. Found control for pass side front to be not working dues to broken little tabs on lever, tried to re-glue and or fabricate but woruld not reliable work. So finally soldered wires to the contacts and ran to a DPDT center off switch from RAdio Crack I mounted in a drilled hole in the switch lever. Side benefit was one of the plastic scraps had caused one of the rear switches not to function as well, so after cleaning I could control all 4 windows, up and down, from the drivers side "master" switch, and the individual 2 rear door switches were working too. So now on to the switch in the front pass door-should be piece of cake now? Weeeeeelllllll......Ratcheting screwdriver broke on dissaay, but managed to get apart. First clue should have been that with pass door switch removed, even master switch would not operate window! Turns out due to interlock, etc, even in off position ther are contacts that are made that are broken selectively during the up and down operations. Thankfully for once my chiltons had detailed schematics, including the internal workings of the switch, or I would have assumed it could have been replaced with a DPDT and never known why it didnt work. Prolly needed at least a 3P3T but I just hard wired the jumpers to simulate permanently off and control that window only from drivers side. Cold better, knee better, returned broken screwdriver for full refund(will buy a lifetme warrenty/better quality one later), wife happy so all is well for now.

We got one for a truck years ago at Radio Shack, dont know if they carry any more-dont see on website. JC whitney lists this one: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ProductDisplay/s-10101/p-480/c-10101 Not exactly cheap, but I agree finding an LED vs a LCD is going to be harder. Good luck

Of course check for common stuff, loose wires, batt terminals, etc. But my guess is the alternator is starting to go out-brushes are prolly weraing just to point of not making contact and you are loosing charge. Just my guess, had similar type thing happen on my 80 and my 91 Legacy

heat-use heat gun or pour some boiling water on them. Will help loosen up and definitly lube the tubes before reassy. Just did mine last month.

My 97 Pontiac Sunfire has a low oil LEVEL as well as a low oil pressure warning light. My former 84 Merc Grand marquis wagon also had a low oil level light-think it came on at 2 Q low out of 5. (That car also had a single "Check Engine" light with the inputs from the oil and temp sending units "OR'ed" together. Cant believe ford was too cheap to spring for seperate warning lights) Regarding crush washers, I never replaced them on my 80 or do now on my 91 subaru. I use a little "liquid teflon tape" to seal the threads on all my drainplugs, also works to prevent them from being stuck. Have been dong that for years and never had a leak. I do agree the oil went somewhere, and the crushring theory as well as the valve stem seals are certainly possible causes. I always stress checking oil, too many people are used to newer engines that use no or little oil and get out of the habit. On a BBS i use on my Sunfire I have seen some consider 1 quart in 5000 miles "excessive" oil use and consider a rebuild! My old POS Maverick used to get to where it would use 1 Q every 75 miles before I considered a teardown-you can buy A LOT of oil for what a new or used engine costs. And ALWAYS carry spare quart with you. Just my opinions.

A) Book can be carried and used by side of road. And notes added to. Also greasy fingerprints help to find the most used sections..... Beware some of the CD's out there are not actual manuals but software to download and are keyed. If they have been registered before you cannot use on another computer. I think Popular Mechanics marketed some of these, and there may have been a renewal fee also yearly? I remember reading the fine print on one while stuck in line at an autobone a few years ago, and saying "not spoon or knife" this. My opinion........

Drove car for a couple days now-only died once or twice, and no complaints from wife unit whose daily driver it is. Was in a lot more stop and go traffic than intended so got some good testing. Am going to leve it alone for now, unless (or until when) gets worse again. Will post any more news, good or bad.

OK, further diagnosis-after clearing codes/relearning sensors (thanks Josh for the instructions on your page) did get a 24 AIC code once. Car is better but still dies at stop sign sometimes after 20-30 seconds. My Chiltons diag test for sensor seems worthless. A) it calls for measuring sensor resistence between three terminals-while my harness has three terminals, my sensor actually only has 2(middle postion is empty- no pin). calls for measuring "resistence" in volts. Also voltage readings called for do not match what i am getting off car-so dont know if the car or the procedure is faulty. Anyway, my sensor is about 9 ohms between the 2 pins and infinite to ground. With IAC connected, Key on engine off I have approx zero volts to left and right pins on connctor(looking into IAC) and 12.5V on the center one(the one that does not connect to the IAC). When running I have about zero volts on the left pin and 2.2. to 4.1 on the right pin. I assume from reading this is prolly an "average" DC reading of a duty cycle (on and off) waveform. On AC volts I see a 6-8 volt component so that is good evidence of switching. I have not yet been able to see if the signal is present when the car dies. That is one of my next steps. New IAC is $238 or higher-am trying to avoid replacing if not the problem. Anyone carried the diagnosis down this path? And if you replaced the IAC, did it fix the problem-already saw one post wehre it did NOT-was the ECU. Thanks

91 legacy with the loping, dropping idle problem.(have kept up on older threads) Got much worse, and i cleaned the IAC with throttle body cleaner. made things worse. have checked TPS, plugs are good etc. I resprayed IAC with a spray lube (WD-40 imitation) and then got better-but not perfect. Could the issue be needs to be cleaned AND lubriicated to move freely agian?

I did that too in my 80 4wd wagon-was turning out of the RCB( Rat and Cat bufffet) near work coming back from lunch and hear a click, the engine reved, and no forward motion in the middle of a busy street. Almost without thinking kicked it into 4wd, pulled into parking lot where I verified the CV join on the half shaft had split clean in 2. Drove back to work, then 20 miles home and that weekend to an axle shop to swap out.

Not sure what a Sumo is, but I had a 1980 4wd wagon with a Hitachi carb. On mine the fuel pump had a pressure sensor in it so that the fuel pump would "pulse" when the pressure dropped too low, then shut off until the pressure dropped again. If this regulator some how screwed up then too high a pressure could be feeding too much gas into the carb. Check with a guage and compare to specification. I have been bitten by too many stuck/defective floats with carbs letting too much gas in that i would not rule out the spare carb might have the same problem, esp if has been sitting. If the fuel pressure checks OK then a quick check of the float is in order. Let us know what you find out, hope it is a simple fix.

Our 91 legacy is up to 236K +. I got at 112K ish, have done 2 clutches, 2 timing belts, some CV boots, valve cover gaskets, muffler, brakes, struts and 2 A/C compressor replacememnts. Most recent repair was new radiator, old one corroded through. Still my wifes daily driver, does not use any fluids except gas. Guess i need to do the timing belt again at 240K-and prolly at 300K if it keeps running the way it is!

My quick tip for short cut-on front struts cut brake line brackets with dremel tool so brake lines can be removed without disconnecting, so save the bleed ing, broken bleeder screws, etc. cut on end so hose will fit through, but leave enough bracket so the clip will still hold the fitting in place. Will also save on dis-assy "next time"

The water pump is driven by the timing belt. My A/C compressor locked up this spring, in Texas gotta have it and lucked out with a JY replacement , new drier, flush and fill of system. good luck