gbrand

I've had 2 Nissan 4x4 King cab trucks. Both very reliable, rugged vehicles. First was 83, Z2.2 engine. Got creamed by soccer Mom while parked in front of my house at 215K. Replaced it with a 97, K2.4 engine, very good truck. I am a memebr of the BBS http://www.nissanfrontier.net/ , there are forums for all the different nissan truck families including the "Hardbody hangout". Number of posts not nearly what we get here on USMB, but still a good place for info. Good luck on the truck!

I had a VP of engineering at my last employer tell me I had a "La-gassy"in the parking lot. I had to think twice to decide he was NOT refering to the after effects of the superb Mexican lunch we had taken customer's to earlier in the day......

Is this the same Ivan Harris that used to be a State Farm insurance agent in South Fort Worth? Just wondering. Good luck and let us know how it turns out

Was looking thru posts,and saw this had been bumped up by a recent reply. To update on my 91 Legacy, yes the clutch crapped out totally and i replaced it. Other than that, I have done an air filter, oil/filter change and one tire-all normal wear items, and now am at almost 232K. Still no oil use, is driven everyday and have no qualms about winding it up to 80 on the road. How long will these 2.2 Legacys go?

I had the same thing happen on my EA71 80 wagon-2 cyl not contributing to engine power. Compression, ignition, etc. good. Replaced the plugs to be sure and they were due anyway, no different. So I pondered on a hot august night, with a 12 pak of thinking fluid, WTF could be causing this? I figured some how it had to be no fuel getting to the 2 cyl on the side, so i rigged a little hose to a can of starting fluid and stuck it in a vacuum hose fitting on the dead side of the intake manifold near the cyl head. When I sprayed a hit of fluid, the engine would smooth out, and I even disconnected the 2 good cyls and could run the engine on the 2 bad ones as long as I squirted fuel. Finally traced problem to some big emissions valve about 1/2nch diameter, it was leaking an incredible amount of air into that side of intake manifold. Plugged it and the engine ran smooth.I know that was a carbed engine and the Legacy is FI (I own a legacy now), but it would not hurt to check for vac leaks etc. Good that you have compression all around, that is always my fear when i do a compression test

91 legacy after retrofit ro 134a and compressor replacement 4 years after that after that-cold as frozen snot, See recent threads about retrofit/compressor replace from Josh and me and others for details. Here in Texas and in Mid 90's and getting hotter, mine gets COLD-kids even were asking me from backseat to turni down they were freezing tonight.

jOSH, i FINALLY GOT OUT TO LOOK AT MY lEGACY SIGHT GLASS(THE CAR IS MY wife CAR) iT LOOKS PRETTY MUCH LIKE YOUR PICS, ON AN OLD r12 CAR WE WOULD SAY IT IS READY FOR A CAN OR 2. bUT IT WAS CHARGED TO SPEC AND IS COOLING GREAT........ GLENN

The guy that vacced and recharged mine said it is normal to see some foam on the converted systems as there is less R134 than there was R12 in the system, I will look at sight glass on mine tommorroow and compare to pix, has run 2000 plus miles since changing the compressor and is still cooling great.

Josh, thanks any way. I read the notes you wrote on the convert you did and that helped a lot. i got a used comp from JY(65$) still running r12, and new rec-drier( $35). A/c guy at shop near house recomended flushing lines with laquer thinner and compressed air, said is better thatn the commecial flush stuff. and split the ester oil (capacity 8 oz) equal among the comp, rec-drier,evap and condensor minus 1 oz that he would shoot in along with the R134 after a long vaccuum.(67 bucks) So a days work and 200 bucks for all things and it is cold and does not leak. I live just north of ft worth texas

227K and still strong-past the life of 2 clutches

91 legacy-is up to 227K but still really in good mechanical shape-A/C compressor (Calsonic) locked up last week. Now here in Texas this is the worst itme of year as heading into the hot season unitl Sept. I had the compressor, along with rec-drier and evaporator replaced and the system converted to R134 in 2000. Cost almost 1000 bucks and this car is not worth that kind of investment now. Am looking for a solution to last the car one more year. I priced used compressors on the net and they are 65 to 225 it looks like. Am going to call the yards tommorrow. I know i will need a new rec-drier to be safe, but looking for advice or pitfalls from anyone who has done this type of a transplant and "hope it works". i already have the R134 charging tool with gauge, had to shoot up my Pontiac earlier in the year. Thanks

on my 91 when I did it made it alot easier to unbolt and move the Windshieldwasher reservior for access-also for changing the spark plug near as well. That was suggested in a thread somewhere on tis board, thanks to the original poster

My experience from My 1980 4wd wagon. The output of the alternator is used to keep the fuel pump going( a crash safety shut off thing). So if alt quits then fuel pump is shut off. So perhaps you did not actually run out of gas, even though symtoms the same? I had an intermittent alt that drove me nuts on way home one night, would work for 1-5 minutes before shutting down and having to coast off road. But in "start" position the pump operates so could get going. FINALLY figured out what was going on and had wife bring me tools and a piece of wire to hot wire the fuel pump to get me home. I replaced regulator but took the alternator replace to fix it. I also wired up an override switch to at least be able run on battery power, and two years later was used when my belt broke in traffic. Kept going until could pull off and replace with the spare I always carried. As far as location of regulator, I believe it was on fenderwall near front corner-cont remeber if on drivers side near the jack or behind the battery on pass side. Again, this was on my 1980, dont know if applys to 1981

my 91 Legacy 2.2 5 spd still gets 30 mpg on hwy-and uses zero oil. Not bad for 224K miles just got done with 1700 plus road trip in, not a problem from it at all!

Here is my take on this-have 91 Legacy L 4 door, 2.2 5spd FWD. Bought it around 110K in 1997. Up to almost 220K today in normal driving-no racing or off road Normal maint stuff that I dont count against ANY car over this time/mileage: Brake pads: 1 set rear, 2 sets front.1 set front rotors. Struts once. Alternator at 160K ? Timing belt at 120K, 180K, and waer pump(was fine) at 180K. Hoses,belts, plug wires, plugs, light bulbs etc. A/C comp went out and had system redone to R134(In Texas got to have A/C). Purge control valve. Valve cover gaskets. Change oil/filter every 2500-3000 mile, Castrol 10-40 in winter 20-50 in summer Muffler and pipe in front of it last year before inspection Several CV boots and a half shaft Clutch went out slipping at 178K, unfort now going again with strange noise. Cruise control out as are several of the electric window switches. Visors are loose. But still 30+ mpg on road, uses no oil and starts and drives fine-took on a 2000 mile trip at turkey day with family of 5 no problem Wil prolly grit teeth and tackle clutch and keep for another year or so