gbrand

in START the pump should run and fill up your lines if it is like my 1980 in RUN the fuel pump is fed thru the voltage regulator and the alternator must be chargeing note from an earlier thread My experience from My 1980 4wd wagon. The output of the alternator is used to keep the fuel pump going( a crash safety shut off thing). So if alt quits then fuel pump is shut off. So perhaps you did not actually run out of gas, even though symtoms the same? I had an intermittent alt that drove me nuts on way home one night, would work for 1-5 minutes before shutting down and having to coast off road. But in "start" position the pump operates so could get going. FINALLY figured out what was going on and had wife bring me tools and a piece of wire to hot wire the fuel pump to get me home. I replaced regulator but took the alternator replace to fix it. I also wired up an override switch to at least be able run on battery power, and two years later was used when my belt broke in traffic. Kept going until could pull off and replace with the spare I always carried. As far as location of regulator, I believe it was on fenderwall near front corner-cont remeber if on drivers side near the jack or behind the battery on pass side. Again, this was on my 1980

As I tell everyone, even from pre-internet days, quietly and calmly, is please give me the details of where you found your information so I may indepedently verify/reproduce it. no matter whether they are the Bill Gates is going to send you 200 dollars for forwarding an email, the next disney land is going to be built in rural ozark missouri, WWII motorcycles packed in grease for 200 dollars, there are nuclear wepons in Iraq or a Subaru Diesel simply please produce the verifiable details. thanks.

double check firing order, timing, vacuum leaks/hose routing, if any advancce machanism(vacuum and centrifical). Don't go looking for exotic stuff until the simple stuff has been double checked-get a second set of eyes if needed and let us know how it comes out. Good luck!

According to http://www.obdii.com/connector.html the 2.2 from an auto is OBDII compliant, so may make easier with sensors, wiring ECU than from a manual. Haven't done a engine swap of a different type in far too many years, so can't help much on details. If you need help, let me know, my company just moved to just south of DFW airport so I drive thru Euless every day.

287K on my 91 2.2...assume they are original, I got car at 112K or so

I would vote for plugs and wires to check first...and if you are concerned about PCV go a head and change it-if you havent changed on car then it may need to bechanged anyay. Not meaning to sound like a heathen, I use autolite plugs, parts store wires(insist on the lifetime guarenty ones), Stant thermostats, etc on my subies, no problems. Also check for cracked vac lines and leaks in accessories-they can cause you to chase many other things.

http://www.desertusa.com/guad/ Nope, no hills in Texas.... The hill holder on my legacy works fine, hae to adjust from time to time...

http://www.obdii.com/connector.html according to this, the connector should be the OBD2 type and the 1995 subaru is only OBD2 compliant if it is A/T. I have never worked on the 95 subes though so I don't know what your connector looks like

I hadn't heard of them till I went to work for them in 2000 for 6 months. Yes they are French based and a big OEM supplier. I worked in the electrical systems division, eventually the North American Electrical division they bought from ITTAutomotive was bankrupt and they sold to Jabil. I would assume their clutches are OK, I know that was a big part of thier business but I can't say.

Very interseting story-I'm very curios now. I would zero in on action of the oil pressure during the malfunction-sounds to me as if MAYBE something unusual is happening, such as the return path for the oil is restricted by sludge, and the oil gets pumped to the top of the engine, and then after sitting, drains down. Or maybe something else strange. If the oil pressure is normal during malfunction then all bets are off.

"We took to calling it the Screaming Green Toilet - a nod towards the raucous engine and the fact that it looked like an Andy Gump knocked over on top of a skateboard" ROFL- the name you used to reference the portable toilet brings back memories of growing up in Southern Calif-they were all known as Andy Gumps for good reason-and the term styed in my vocabulary for years afterwards-although most people looked at me like I was from another planet when I used it. My wife and i got together and she picked up the term,and about 22 years ago we moved to Texas. Her first job was on a Survey crew laying out subdivisions, and of course finding "facilities" at times was hard. She remarked one day "There's an Andy Gump" and her crewchief gave her the strangest look, and exclaimed he hadn't heard that term used in a LONG time, and asked her when she had lived in Southern California

If the dealer9or anyoneelse) turns the light off it also resets the "monitors" to off("not ready"), the indicators that tell the computer the tests have been run. In most areas most or all of the "monitors" have to be on ("set") indicating the car has been driven long enough for all the self tests to run. In my part of Texas you can have up to 2 monitors not ready and as long as the light is not lit you pass. You state you are not a mechanic, it sounds as if you need to find a good one, who knows diagnostics(not throwing parts at problems hoping to fix them), OBDII(the computers and codes) and hopefully has some experience on Subarus. The Parts stores that read codes are good to get teh codes, always make sure to get the actual code numbers(P01234, etc.) but I would not put too much faith in thier diagnostic ability. Did you get the code numbers and could you post them here? We may be able to help I would be leery of a dealer unless you know it's service dept is good, too many dealers use thier service depts to pressure customers into buying a new car and thier overhead can be high. Thee are some board memebers in your area, can any of them point you to a good repair shop or perhaps a dealer that does good service work? Let us know how it goes and good luck.

On every vehicle i have diagnosed wih this problem, it has been low brake fluid. Contracts in the cold, and then heats up to turn out light. subes and non subes. Just a RCH down will do it. Not saying this is your problem, but put plsah of brake fluid in (dont over fill) and see what happens

OK, my 2 cents here. As an engineer who has worked in the electrical test business for almost 25 year, but learned my basic electricity between the ages of 8 and 10, I have a mild little ranting to do. thef ear and misconception of electricity has probabaly cost more people time, money and even thier lives that a simple approach of what to do-and not do-in trouble shooting. OK, in your case, dealing wih 12 Volts is safe, and the main thing to remember when dealing with electricity is it is like water flowing through a pipe(sort of) the electricity flows from a high elevation (potential) to a low elevation(many call ground) and then the battery(or alternator or generator) acts as a "pump" to bring the leectricity9water0 back to the high elevation. So if a wire goets broken, no electricity flow and no lights9or horn or stereeo orwhat ever you are trying to power as no current can flow, and it you get a short, wiring touches something it isnt suppoesed to, current flows in apath it isnt supposed to and causes current low to ground or what ever. At all costs if the simple stuff doent solve buy or borrow a wiring diagram-and follow the "pipes' to see ehare the elecricity should flow. OK, FIRST check all fuses related to the ciruits that are having prolems. And dont forget there are fuses in addition to those under the dash, at least in my 91 Legacy there is an additional fuse box in the engine compartment. If they are all OK(I suspect they may not be) check your bulbsto make sure they are good. Don't relay on visible inspection, use an ohmeter. Aslo check for proper power AAD ground connections at your socket-if you don't have a multimeter purchase one-they can be had very cheaply-granted there is someyou get what you pay for but I would take having a 5 buck multimeter for trouble shooting lighting problems over waiting till next pay check to buy a 190 dollar Fluke model. Here is a link on how to use. As has been said earlier, the tail/stop lights are 2 filimants with seperate sources connected to a common "ground"., if that ground connection is broken one circuit will feedthe other. LMy bet is a blown fuse and orabad combo switch. Butthat is a guess. http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/a/aa063001a.htm Let us know hwat you find out

Deer danger is no doubt very real and serious. to swerve or hit, will depnnd on road, traffic, size of deer(they vary al ot in different parts of country) and passenger loading, angle of expected hit etc. and all tha canbe thought of in a quick second. I have had good luck with flashing lights on and off(as opposed to hi-lo beam), was easier to do with dash board in and out switches. I worry more aboutthe ones standing inn the ditches as they can jump to hit you just as you drive by. And a hit is not always good either, my fathers cousin was killed on a 2 lane road, car driving opposite way hit deer, flipped it up in air, and escaped serious injury. but coming down it smashed into cousins car killing him. The state of Penn did a study a few years back I am told on ways to reduce deer-car crashes. Whistles, fences, warning lights, driver education, etc. The only method with a direct statistical correlation was the increase in the number of deer taken by hunting and the recommendation was said to be increase the deer harvest. With no natural predetors in many areas these "rats" have multiplied. On a recent drive from Mo. down I-44 thru Okla, I was counting 1 dead deer per mile on the median just after crossing into Okla....I know that some had to have caused some serious accidents form the skid marks.

On the cable, it was a PIA on my 91 legacy-surprised as on my old 80 was not too had. FYI do not buy aPioneer brand-it was an "almost fit" aftermarket. On the engine, see CCR on this boeard for top notch new, and there is good advice on used engines from in the US and Japan. My personal take, is you can buy a Cr-pload of oil for the cost in money and time and trouble of a swap/rebuild. i used to let my old amaerican clunkers get down to 1quart every 75 miles before I would do something about the engine. Just make sure to check frequently and carry spare oil(and funnel, spout, etc,.) if yo drive an oil burning car

Check ignition stuff-on my 96 2.4 the coil packs etc failed and it would hardly run, but didnt throw any codes. Does the 2.2 have wires and a disty, or cioil packs and "integrated" ignition like my 2.4(almost impossible to check for good spark by "old time" methods)

Well I've been out of the old gen world for 10 years, think I sent my 80 4wd wagon to the next owner with 245K on the clock, but my 91 Legacy is now at 285K, no engine work except VC gaskets and the timing belt/w pump...on to 300K...

Before you condemn the motor,do a check with an ohmeter-should read very low ohms. If open, is toast. Aout half the time I find the impeller gunked up with rust, dirt, etc., and cleaning will free the thing up.

Please make sure the problem is actually with the convertor,not the Oxygen sensors that read the health of the convertor. there was a recall on some of these, read the thread referenced below Originally Posted by gbrand http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/...highlight=0420 please read this, all the way to bottom, you may be coverd by a recall that is casuing your problem.

just move engine and transmission far enough apart to get in there to replace-get spare TO bearing clips as one or both will end up in the 4th dimension during thiis job dealeronly part. I got new fork from dealer for 30 bucks including 2nd day shipping.

Also if you do a search for 3 letters or less put an * on front or back search for abs* or *abs the wildcard will get you results.

great story of people pulling together, and the picutres certainly show the work done. andlooks like a good weather day for it too. Just out of curiosity, where in Ventura county were you? I grew up in Thousand Oaks, lived just South of the Hwy 23/ Hwy 101 interchange, got to watch it being built-rode bikes over all the roads and bridges before it was opened as a kid!

Also if carb has an "anti diesel solenoid", basicly a solenoid that raised the idle speed while key is "on" and then allows it to drop when engine is turned off to prevent "run on"or "diesling" vey common on early 70's on up carbs, i thnk my 80 wagon had on. If it fails(can check with ohmemter) your car will die at "idle" becasue the idle is too low. Made obsolete by FI in later years.

Nice looking BRAT! Pics of interior, grill (after wreck went from round to square headlights) and engine remind me of my long gone 80 4wd wagon. What part of "Misery" are you in, I spent 1972-1985 in Rolla and suround ing area...tramped around quite a bit. You'll love your BRAT for winter driving, my 80 wagon that I got after the move to Texas would go on ice and snow while Jeeps and other SUV's were sliding off the roads big time.