gbrand

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/subaru.html is link to Legacy777's apge taht gives code reading instructions for our cars(pre OBD2) I own a 91 Legacy.. Its pretty easy. I would also check the wires, plugs and compression. I have a Chiltons for the Legacy , it is OK but of course there is some stuff not there. Anothe good source of free info is on autozone.com, go to thier repair information and key in your model year and vehicle type, you get a fair amount of info. Please keep us posted of progress, and you will get good advice from the members here

If like my 91 coolant sensor located on pass side under intake manifold, a pain to get to. I would unplug the connector, or if lucky find it has worked loose, and then try subtituting an appropriate resistor in place of the sensor and see if the guage moves. That way if the sensor was good, and the guage is bad(or wire is broken between the two) you have not wasted time to remove an item that is a PIA to get in and out.

Owned 2 subes, 80 4wd wagon EA71, and 91 Legacy FWD EJ22 MT. The 80 wagon was a good car, got in 88 and finally sold in 2001. It was not without its share of problems, but the best damn ice car I ever owned or drove. And I put a lot of miles on it. The Legacy I got in 1998, with 110K on it, and has been prolly the best car I've ever owned. Ive done some work on it, mostly normal maintainance, things like alternator, brakes, CV boots, clutches, A/C. Still going strong at almost 257K as my wifes daily driver. I haver never touched the engine or transmission except for manitainance items(timing belt, plugs, fluid changes, water pump). Was a good roadtrip car for many years(now replaced by a 99 LeSabre), still would not hesitate to go for a long road trip in it. Sister bought new 96 Legacy AWD EJ22 5MT in snow country, and loves it. Before buying the LeSabre, I inquired if she might be "getting tired of it after 120K"-no such luck!

I have never found them in the right size outside a dealership-and believe me I've looked a few years back. Then found a dealer that sold them at reasonable rather than holdup prices

First, if the CEL is on, get the code(s) read. The answer might be right there. Record them, and clear them-then if the come code(s) reappear this is a real problem that does not go away by clearing the codes. You will need a code reader to do this, many autoparts stores will scan/clear the codes for free(be very wary of thier "advice"-this is service they can use to sell uneeded parts) Second, cars still require spark, fuel and compression to run. it may be an intermittent electrical problem, but could be some thing else too. If it is unknown when the fuel filter was changed, change it now-and dump out the old one and check for dirt. Also inspect the air filter-replace if dirty. Try to isolate the interminnnecy and factors that affect it-heat, if you drive fast does it stall sooner, etc. Also look for loose or damaged electrical connections, and vacuum hoses. if the car had a fair amount of work done on it(hence the salvage title) a burned, damaged or pinched wire may be your demon. Please keep us posted on progress, pinpointing problems, and final resolution. The more information you can feed us, the more input we can give

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49099&highlight=H6%2A%2A

Do you have power during start? If it powers during start but not run then there is a problem with your charging system-the fuel pump in "run" is powered via the external voltage regulator(but charging system must be working)-in start mode it is bypassed. This drove me nuts when the brushes in the alternator became so worn they were intermittent, car would stall out as charging sytems failed, then restart OK. Long story I have posted before. Finaaly put jumper wire to batt to get me home. Check it out and let me know if you need details. Let us know

willworkforbeer(BTW what else is worth working for?) If you search for IAC or Idal air control valve in theis(the new generation) forum you will find many threads on the behavior , location, trouble shooting and cleaning of the IAC valves on our cars. BTW it is on the pass rear side of the intake, and can be cleaned in the car by pulling the hose off. At least one thread has a picture i believe, take a lok and let us know how it comes out and anything else with the Sube. Welcome to the board

burned or carboned valve maybe? Try the wet compression trick, squirt in a little oil , and if compression raises it is a ring issue not valves. Let us know how you make out/fix of not/etc

suggest testing the alternator(s) at auto parts store to verify they are bad. If a bench tested good alt fails to produce 14 volts at 2000 rpm then there has got to be a wiring problem-make sure ground wire between engine and frame is good,and trace wires from other terminals on alt (F, S?) and make sure they are not pinched, broken, or otherwised hosed up by a blown fuse, or burned out charge indicator light , etc. Consult a detailed schematic of your specific car. Let us know and good luck...

I picked up a wheel and tire for my 91 Legacy for not too much, 25-10 bucks I think. They had just hauled in a similar car, had not even gotten off the wrecker when i got there. I bouhgt 2 extra tires off it for another 30 bucks or so, were in good ahpe. Interior was trashed though. I did have to remove the plastice tool tray (any body need it?) and made a plywood cover to give the trunk a solid "floor'.

yeah, the oil sending wire on my 84 merc station wagon would flop around and intermittantly contact the frame, causing the one warning light for the overheat or low oil pressure to come on. Caused heart failure first coule times, till I figured the real reason. And in the day of really crappy cars I used to keep the battery from floppng around in the 73 maverick by keeping a plastic oil bottle wedged between the fender wall and the battery. One day it popped out and got in the fan, thought for sure from the noise the engine, transmission or both was shedding major metal!

WAS pulling out into traffic one day after lunch and BAM the car quit moving and engine reved. I insticntively know what happened and pulled it into 4wd and got off the road, stopped and surveyed the damage. Back to work, 5 miles, then home at end of day, 25 miles, and to axle shop for new shaft 15 miles the next saturday morning. No ill effects. No snow and ice, was 95+ texas hot rump roast day in the non A/C 80 wagon....

Get it in writing. Then copy the NTSB, SOA, and anyone else you can think of for a second opinion. Or pull up next to a line of thier new cars, let your car "suddenly advance" into a couple of them and see how acceptable this behavior is considered. (Just kidding) Once upon a time I lived on a cattle farm and shoveled a lot of what you are being told. Just my opinions

On my 80 EA71 found out it ran on only 2 cyl on pass side. Changed plugs, had good spark, and compression. Still I could pull the 2 wires on drivers sied and car would idle the same. Pull pass side wires and car was stone dead. Finally a hot august night, and a 12 pack of determination set in-I finally decided the drivers side was starved for fuel. As this was a carbed engine, I did not worry about FI issues. I pulled a vacuum hose off the intake near the head, and put in a spray can tube hooked up to a can of starter fluid. Sure enough, as long as I gave a squirt on the can every 20 seconds or so the car would run, even with the 2 pass wires disconnected. Had big vacuum leak in some pollution control valve(anti backfire valve?) plumbed into intake manifold on drivers side that caused car to run on 2 cyl only, and a plug in it caused the car to run beatifully. Of course during all this dicking around the grease from CV boots past and transmisson leaks ignited on the overworked cat converter, the garden hose was lying near by or that might have been the last hurrah for the little blue wagon!

yeah a pet peeve of mine too http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20704&highlight=resolution

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1c/67/2e/0900823d801c672e.jsp dont know how similar but 96 legacy was latest info on autozone online repair manuals

Welcome to the board! My comments, I believe the 99's came with the 2.5L engine, which is an interference engine, unlike most of the 2.2L. That would be consistent with the story of the timing belt breaking and major engine work being required. Assuming it waw done right, esp. if the head gaskets were done with whatever the latest information/parts are to prevent leaks-a problem on early 2.5L's (search else where on this forum for more info) this could be a real good long lasting car. I would look at the numbers on the engine itself, to see what it really is. IF it is a 2.2L in a car that had a 2.5L originally I would look at the integrity of the swap out, and any inspection issues if you are in a strict emmissions inspection state/county. Let us know what you find out!

Might not hurt to flush out brake system too. And lube all door hinges/latches, etc. And silicone sppray any rubber mouldings

EJ22 hands down for me, 254K miles and still going strong. Don't miss the distributer one bit. Never had problem with engine controls/FI other than cleaning the IAC and normal maintainance-plugs, wires, filters, timing belt, etc. The EA71 was OK but did fail and replaced with a new crate engine, that developed a problem(mfr fixed it) too. No experience with other Subaru engines......

I run 20W-50 in summer and 10W-40 in winter in my 91 Leg. (Texas) 253+ K miles and still going....does not use oil yet.

have been running a pep boys unit for over 100K. First one died within 24 hours, replaced no problem and fine since Rememer most "OEM" units are really manufactured by 3rd party suppliers these days.

Very much so.

Replace cable-seriously, I think you have diagnosed it correctly

Mine used to work, only after you ran the car a long time after empty. have not seen it light in over a year, but ususally dont let gas get that low and my wife normally drives that car. Guess I need to go test to make sure still works, and carry a gallon of gas just in case it doesn't!