SiriusBlack
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Everything posted by SiriusBlack
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@nvu Yeah I figured that out after I did it XD.
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For it to be toast, it would of had to have been out of the box. It's a brand new starter and solenoid. Which is entirely possible.
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I have now jumpered both clutch switches. We'll see if that fixes it.
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@1 Lucky Texan Is there any way to delete or bypass the clutch safety switch? I certainly don't need it.
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@forester2002sThere is an audible click when they key is turned, however the solenoid was replaced along with the starter.
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Hey all, my 05 STi has a seemingly random intermittent no start issue. I originally thought it was the battery or starter, but I have replaced both and run all new and upsized cable. Thinking now that it's something with the immobilizer. The cycle the key 3 times reset doesn't seem to affect it. It has full power, but will not crank when this occurs. I was wondering if a new key with a new chip could fix it? I don't know if the chips can become corrupted like a thumb drive? Or if I need a whole new ignition cylinder, which seem to be rather difficult to find. Any help would be greatly appreciated, it's very nearly left me stranded several times now. Thanks in advance.
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@GeneralDisorder I have my engine mostly back together. However I have found a hose barb that appears to have been welded or brazed to the back of the drivers side valve cover. It had a hose from the bottom of the AOS I removed, going to it. From all the pictures I've seen of this engine, I assume that barb is not factory? Thanks in advance.
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I wasn't worried about doing the test in my driveway, I was worried about replacing the pistons in my driveway should the ringlands be cracked. I'll be doing the compression test soon. @1 Lucky Texan I already installed a killer bee pickup in it awhile back.
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I was thinking about that. I don't think they are, as it ran completely fine besides the oil leak. I just pray they haven't cracked. My shop setup is non-existent, I've been doing repairs in my driveway all these years.
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Done. I got stainless steel braided oil lines installed. Now I'm in the process of putting the PCV system back to stock. Looks like they deleted my PCV valve when they installed the AOS.
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Alright, I just finished pulling the car apart. The turbo is PRISTINE. No residue, no shaft slop, nothing. There is oil all over the turbo oil drain hose and the gasket for the metal hose barb, where it bolts to the bottom of the turbo doesn't look very good. So I'm going to replace that gasket and others while I have it out. I will also replace the small rubber oil drain hose, and look into deleting the AOS the previous owner installed. Currently we're working under the hypothesis that the PCV system over pressurized and blew the excess pressure out that drain line, since it's the path of least resistance.
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Reasonably sure. It sure as hell looked like engine oil, but by that same token it was dark out. So I'm not 100% sure.
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Hey all, got a bit of a problem. I have an 05 WRX STI that I got used with 70,000 miles on it. Owner said the engine had been swapped with a 20,000 mile unit. I have owned the car almost a year now. Mods it came with: Invidia cat back exhaust. Cobb intake Grimspeed turbo solenoid AOS of unknown brand Aluminum mishimoto radiator Cobb accessport running stage 1 tune of unknown origin. Mods I installed: Killerbee oil pickup Prosport oil pressure and voltage gauges. I run Castrol 5W30 premium full synthetic. Now on to the problem. I was driving home one night, about 12 miles. I was driving spiritedly, but definitely not thrashing it. I pull into a gas station at the edge of the town I live in and notice smoke from under the hood. There is oil all over the passenger side strut tower and on the turbo and down pipe. I check the oil level, and it's right on the money. I decide to drive it the 8 blocks home and keep a close eye on the oil pressure. Oil pressure is fine all the way home, I open the hood and check again. There doesn't appear to be any additional oil on the strut tower or surrounding area. I have thought for awhile that it gets hotter under the hood than it ought to, but my temp gauge never climbs past the third mark up that's before the red zone. I have yet to pull it apart and look in depth, in the meantime anyone have any ideas as to what may have happened? My current theory is that the banjo bolt for the oil line on top of the turbo went bad. As always, thanks in advance.
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It does it even when in gear with the clutch in. The neutral switch shouldn't affect it then I would think.
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Hey all. I just got done replacing both O2 sensors on my 05 WRX STI. It was throwing a running rich code, and getting abysmal fuel mileage, hence the sensor replacement. Now after the sensor swap, it hasn't thrown the rich mixture code with a 5 mile test drive. Now however it has a wandering idle. If you disengage the clutch and let it drop to idle, it will either drop so low it actually dies, or it will drop to around 200 RPM before climbing back to 800. It will also occasionally speed up the idle to 1000 RPM. It had this wandering issue before the sensor swap, but it was never bad enough to kill the car and generally wandered up instead of down. I have only had this car a few months and the previous owner tuned it. How is the idle controlled on this car? Is it all ECU controlled? Or is there something I can adjust? Do I just need to give the ECU time figure out it has new sensors? Thanks in advance.
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Got it all sorted out today. It was purely coincidence that the light went on after a change. The sensor was faulty. In the process of troubleshooting though, I now have a killer bee oil pickup and an oil gauge. Sadly, the gauge is a cheap digital one so not sure how accurate it is. It says I have 20psi at warm idle and about 90psi at 4000 rpm. What are the proper pressures for this car?
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Checked all that. The oil level was perfect, no leaks. After the car was wrecked previously in it's life, and rebuilt. It had a 20,000 mile motor installed. I have a new dummy light sensor in case that is the issue, I thought the light typically flickered if the sensor went bad. On the trip home from work when the light came on, I drove it the rest of the way home (about 8 blocks) never letting the engine go above 2000 RPM. All I heard noise wise was a faint clicking that I think was lifter click, no other noises like rod knock.
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It's possible. I'll let you know on that once I get the gauge installed.
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None. No sludge either, it was surprisingly clean.
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First thing I checked was the pickup. It was fine, but I replaced it with a new killer bee while I was in there anyway.
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Hey all. I recently did the first oil change on my new to me 05 STI. It did alright during the circulation after the change, but my low oil pressure light came on on my way home from work. From what posts I can find, I'm guessing a piece of sludge or carbon got dislodged and jammed the pressure relief valve open. I believe that valve is on the oil pump itself? Can anyone confirm that? If it is, how easy would it be to correct? Can I replace that valve, or does it have to be the whole pump? I'm currently in the process of installing an oil pressure gauge, so I can verify what pressure is actually there. Also, I can't think of why it would, but could this have been caused in any way by the fact that I changed it from 5W30 to 5W40 during the change? Thanks in advance.
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Hey all. I recently took COBB's tuning classes, for all the good it did me. Turns out the custom tune the car came with is locked, and my accesstuner software won't read it. In addition the classes they had me take through EFI University, barely touched 75% of the stuff in the software. I don't know what I'm doing when it comes to digital ECU tuning, and I don't want to mess with anything for fear of ruining my motor. I asked COBB if there were any other classes I could take to get a better grasp, they just said to look at their help center. Another waste of time, it barely covers the old STIs anymore. Is there anyone that can help me tune this car? I would be immensely thankful.
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Hey all, hopefully I won't be ridiculed or called an idiot for asking this, but I really want to know. I recently got an 05 WRX STI, I read that the DOHC EJ25 motors are interference engines. I know if you change your timing belts regularly, the odds of catastrophic failure due to pistons hitting valves is low. However, pulleys can seize and belts can fail prematurely. Also if you run without covers so you can regularly check them, that adds the possibility of something getting caught and breaking the belt. So my question is, how hard is it to make the engine non-interference? Will installing thicker head gaskets get the clearance needed to make it non-interference? If you increase how much boost the turbo puts out, will it successfully compensate for the compression loss you would get by raising the heads? Just how much overlap is there between the valves and the piston? Thanks in advance.
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Hey all. Last week I bought a 2005 WRX STI with 67000 miles. Now I am discovering several things that didn't get discovered during the test drive and the owner didn't mention. It has a Cobb tuning access port that was running a "custom" tune. That tune supposedly added 30 HP, but it killed any and all fuel mileage and was causing a bank 1 too rich code. I reflashed it to the Cobb factory economy tune, now I have 7 different check engine codes. Evap system error/PCV system error and the rest are low sensor voltage errors. It would not let me do the realtime map swaps while it was flashed to the custom tune. Now that it is flashed to a Cobb tuner factory map I can realtime any map other than the custom map. It has a Cobb short cold intake, a Mishimoto radiator, Grimspeed turbo solenoid controller, and Ohlin race coilovers. It also has a clicking noise from the tranny. It is worst in second gear, but can also be heard in first, neutral and reverse. It is absent when the clutch is disengaged and you sit still, but you can hear it faintly when rolling to a stop with the clutch in. I discovered much to my anger and disappointment that the tranny had been being run with almost no oil in it for several hundred miles after they had a shop install a new clutch. Currently my biggest worry is to get the ECU squared away. I want it to run on something other than their custom tune without throwing half a dozen engine codes. All of my subi experience has been from restoring my BRAT and XT, only 80s subis. This is a bit new for me. Thanks in advance.
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Hey all. I'm looking into all the different possibilities for engine swaps into my 86 BRAT and 87 XT. I'd really like to put EE20 boxer turbo diesels into them, but can't find physical dimensions for these engines anywhere. People drop the EJ18 and EJ20s into these cars. I did find out that the EE20 is shorter front to back than the EJ20. I'm more worried about width. Can anyone get me the full physical dimensions on the EJ18, EJ20 and most importantly the EE20 diesel? Thanks in advance.
