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SiriusBlack

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Everything posted by SiriusBlack

  1. SiriusBlack
    I have an 87 XT coupe, with the EA82T engine. I want to install a top mount intercooler and can't decide which one. An air to air is more reliable, but probably doesn't cool as much. An air to water however has the possibility of leaking and getting coolant down the intake. So I'm looking for advice on this. Keep in mind the cooler will be getting it's airflow from the factory hood scoop. Thanks in advance.
  2. SiriusBlack
    Now even with it running WAAAAY better, it still has a couple small issues. The idle is a little rough when the engine is cold, smooths out alot once it is warmed up. It also stumbles when sitting idling with it in gear, almost like it is misfiring on one or 2 cylinders.
  3. SiriusBlack
    In summary, it was 20 or more degrees off in its ignition timing. Due to the fact that I was timing it with the ECU in normal operation mode, and it thus trying to adjust the timing while I was trying to adjust it. If you connect the green jump connector and put the ECU in test mode, it isn't trying to adjust the timing at the same time you are and you can time it properly.
  4. SiriusBlack
    Well, finally some progress. We redid and checked the ignition timing like 4 times. This final time we timed it with the green jump connector hooked up and thus the ECU in test mode. The timing was probably 20 degrees off, so we fixed it and it runs great now. The tach and fuel gauge (Digi dash) still aren't accurate, but otherwise it works. We'll see how it goes from here. Thanks to all of you for your help and suggestions thus far.
  5. SiriusBlack
    The shaft has no play at all. We are looking at replacing all the electrical bits in the top half now. If anyone can get a new one of the right type it's like 600, so we are going to try to fix the faulty parts in the original. We think it is the electrical parts that are causing the faulty tach readings.
  6. SiriusBlack
    We are now looking at replacing the disty. There is a new one on rock auto, but it lacks both the vac advance, and the 5 connectors under the cap that mine has. Is anyone able to tell me if it'll work anyway?
  7. SiriusBlack
    Upon further testing, we believe the problem is caused by something in the electrical system. More specifically the ignition pulse. My tachometer goes up and down all over the place without the engine speed actually changing. The ECU receives info from the tach and adjusts the engine from that info among other things. We hope that if we can fix the tach, it might help the idle. Any info you all might have on the digital tach, ignition system and ignition pulse specifically would be a big help. Thanks in advance.
  8. SiriusBlack
    Sadly I've failed again. I got it all put back together with the new injectors and that vac line fixed. It still has the same issues. I'm going to try and get a video of it running, which I will then post on the Facebook USMB counterpart. Hopefully that can give you guys some more info. In the meantime I'm pretty much back to square one and would appreciate any other suggestions. Here is the link to the videos. https://www.facebook.com/groups/UltimateSubaruMessageBoard/permalink/3525592547503216/
  9. SiriusBlack
    Tore it apart now to install new injectors. When tearing it apart I found a rock hard and busted vac line with an orifice behind the power steering pump. I replaced that, but will go ahead with cleaning the fuel rails and installing the new injectors since I have it apart anyway. I suspect that line could have been the issue, it would have created a vac leak.
  10. SiriusBlack
    I'm not looking for more torque necessarily. Diesel engines are generally more fuel efficient and more flexible in what fuels they use. But your saying I'd have to get a different clutch to handle it? What about the torque converter in the automatic transmission? Would it have to be changed as well?
  11. SiriusBlack
    I have an 87 XT and an 86 BRAT with an EA82T and an EA81 respectively. If either of those motors dies on me catastrophically I'll have to do an engine swap. I know most people seem to like dropping EJ engines into these cars, but I would like to make them both diesel with subaru's EE20 diesel engine if I can. I know that its physical dimensions will work as it is slightly smaller than an EJ22. I was curious if anyone knows what kinda of transmission mods I'd have to perform?
  12. SiriusBlack
    Since the idle tried to smooth when we increased the fuel pressure, I plan to pull the injectors and clean them again. Then I'm going to completely flush the steel lines on top of the manifold that feed them fuel. After that I'll go from there.
  13. SiriusBlack
    It does go higher than my set speed. When it's cold it idles around 2200 rpm and goes down as it warms up. Once warm it idles around 1200 because if I try to set it lower it dies immediately. When idling at that 1200 point it wanders up and down. Rarely steadying at any point.
  14. SiriusBlack
    It wanders when in idle and in P or N. Wanders up or down about 200 rpm. If I put it in gear without feathering the throttle it struggles then dies. If I double pedal it I can keep it running while in gear. If I hold the brake and throttle it up, then throw it into gear the engine is fine. It spins the wheels then goes just fine. I've never gotten it up to highway speeds as it isn't licenced, I've gotten it up to 30 MPH on my own land. No studder or backfire when I throw it into gear with the engine throttled up and I release the brake. As far as we can tell there is absolutely nothing wrong other than the idle. We believe that the fact that it dies when put into gear, is simply the engine being unable to handle the load of the transmission due to the crummy idle.
  15. SiriusBlack
    @DaveT I had thought about replacing the pressure regulator, but it doesn't lack power once you rev the engine a little. It revs happily, just has a really crummy idle that also kills it once in gear.
  16. SiriusBlack
    Well, we have eliminated pretty much everything else and are now thinking it is a fuel pressure issue despite the new pump. When we raise the fuel pressure it just barely keeps it from dying when idling alone not in gear. There is probably still gunk and varnish in the lines and the injectors despite my cleaning them. So I plan to pull the injectors again and install new, plus give the lines another cleaning. Now my question is this, I know that injectors from a nissan 280ZX are direct bolt in and have almost double the flow capacity. I planned to run them when I finally switch to a megasquirt ecu for tuning purposes. What I need to know now is if the stock ecu can properly manage the nissan injectors, can I get the nissan ones now and run them without the megasquirt?
  17. SiriusBlack
    @Step-a-toe It has no problem whatsoever revving in P or N, no hesitation or anything. It wanders at idle and dies once put into gear.
  18. SiriusBlack
    We were thinking the same thing, why the hell would my resistances go up with the key on? The factory manual troubleshooting guide said to run these tests with the key on, so I assume the battery and everything else needs to be hooked up.
  19. SiriusBlack
    Following the factory manual troubleshooting we suspect it may be a faulty electrical ground. We tested resistance from one of connectors on the engine side, to body ground and got 0.03 ohms with the key off. Key on that went to 2.00 ohms.
  20. SiriusBlack
    The knock sensor has been disconnected while running before. I did it to test, made no difference. I'd still like to have it working properly, as a knock sensor is good to have on a turbo vehicle. Any idea how I might go about fixing the voltage to it? And of course I still haven't managed to solve the actual running issues, so I'd still like suggestions. Only other thing I really have left to try is replacing the coolant thermosensor connector.
  21. SiriusBlack
    If your talking about the date the car was made, the plate on the door says It was made in late December of 86. I ran more tests today, I replaced the knock sensor plug with one from a donor car. It measured 5 volts with key on engine off. Then when idling at temp, it idled at about 1000 rpm and measured 3 volts at idle, not 1.7. I also got around to checking the coolant thermosensor plug, it is corroded beyond belief and somewhat damaged. I'm going to see if I can replace that as well.
  22. SiriusBlack
    @Ionstorm66 That's what i thought. I had read an article somewhere that had said that was the case. However several people have said otherwise. I can put a link here to the discussion if you like.
  23. SiriusBlack
    I actually have another discussion I'm part of that discusses just that. I don't know if it has a 3 or 4 speed. My shop and owners manuals disagree. I figured I'd count the shifts once it was running right, but i can't get it to do that.
  24. SiriusBlack
    @Rampage that sort of makes sense. Except that doesn't really explain the wandering idle when not in gear. It wanders in idle and P,N occasionally dipping low enough in the wanders to make the engine die.
  25. SiriusBlack
    Mine must be a series one, as it has the white connector with no mate by the coil.
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