SiriusBlack

Well, when I get it running again I plan to count the gears. However I double checked the factory owners manual and it says it has a 4 SPD. However I have a factory service manual for the 86 model year and it says that the 86s at least had 3 SPD. It's just baffling. I'll have to count them when I get it running again.

Well my XT is an 87 not the 87.5. It has the part time push button 4 wheel drive. Many of the original articles and magazines i found said that all XTs that came to the US from the start of production in 85 have a 4 spd electronically controlled transmission. Ones sold in their home market of japan apparently had the 3 spd. So as far as i can tell mine has a 4spd auto, but since it isnt the half year with full time AWD i have no idea if it has the lock up torque converter.

@Step-a-toeIf you can find the article or whatever said that i would absolutely love to read it.

The patch worked for the most part. As is the case with rust i had another couple leaks spring up but they were outside of the area i patched. The patch material and solder hold back most of it, but you will end up with some small leaks. To seal those up i used fiberglass resin from a fiberglass repair kit, just apply the resin without the fiberglass cloth and let it bond and cure. Did a beautiful job of sealing the smaller leaks around the patch. Make 100% sure you have it fully clean though, clean the area you are soldering and applying the resin to THOROUGHLY. I used an angle grinder and a flap disc, slight grinding so you don't remove too much metal. Solder on your patch then coat the entire thing in the resin, should do the job. Best of luck to you.

I have an 87 XT turbo with the computer controlled 4 speed auto tranny. I was wondering if there is a direct bolt in lock up torque converter for better efficiency? As far as i know the torque converters they came with were not lock up and thus not as efficient at higher speeds. If anyone know of one that is a direct bolt in, i'd appreciate it. I also plan to install a magasquirt 2 ECU later, so keep in mind it will have to be compatible with that. Thanks in advance.

It won't be stock, but they make electric fans that essentially zip tie to the radiator. Your main problem will be getting a replacement for the radiator itself.

I would do the basics. Drain the tank, my 86 has a drain plug so you don't have to drop said tank. Refill with fresh fuel. Pull all the fuel lines, add a little carb cleaner and blow them out with compressed air. Clean the carb really well. I recommend adding a full can of sea foam fuel additive to the first 2 or 3 tanks of fuel you run through it. Change any and all fuel filters, most of the 80s subis seem to have 2 filters, one under the hood and one by the fuel pump underneath. I would probably do a complete oil change too. Hope this helps.

I have an 86 BRAT that has a leaky fuel tank. Now as many of you probably know you can't get new tanks for these. I've cleaned it up and repaired it about 90% of the way, I used some sheet metal and solder. However my solder joints leak in a couple places and refuse to seal. Does anyone know if something like red line tank sealant is safe to use? The insides of these tanks have a web of fuel pick up lines, which is why I haven't used a sealant even after all this time. For fear of it sealing those lines and ruining my tank. Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance.

I fixed my fuel tank on my 86 BRAT recently. I used some thin sheet metal as patch material, and soldered on the patches with 60/40 acid core solder and a propane torch. It looks pretty damn good, going to test for leaks soon, then if there are none going to anti rust coat it and reinstall it. Wish I could share the pics, but the files are too large apparently. Thought I'd share the idea here though for others that want to try it. Make sure to purge the tank of all fumes before applying flame. I put a block of dry ice in mine then let it sit for probably 2 weeks, did a good job of ridding it of fumes. Good luck to you if you try this method.

Not sure, like I said when I started work on this door it was missing these parts. I can try to check my shop manual.

I found several motors on eBay, but it's missing the regulator too. Anyone know if the regulators from the other 80s models will work?

Hey all. I am repairing the door to an 87 XT coupe, and it is missing it's window motor. I have already checked Rock Auto for a new one and they don't have it. So my question is, does anyone know if a different window motor will work for this door? Thanks in advance.

Hey all, I got the loyale rocker panels from Mill supply and am getting ready to put them on my 86 BRAT as the originals are practically non-existent. I heard on another thread someone put up a guide on how to modify these to fit? Can anyone post a link to that guide please? I want to get this right the first time. Thanks.

Brand new, with a chrome air filter housing and everything :).

@GeneralDisorder I took a much closer look, and see how it could fail in the future due to the gasket simply being unable to seal fully. As for the rubber line, I apparently never did pull and plug it like I thought. I've put around 4000 miles on mine with the gasket sealing that passage. I'm now trying to figure out another way to seal that passage in a non permanent way, as I am hell bent on being able to set this vehicle back to factory if need be. Thanks.

That's why I said that I also unhooked and plugged the rubber line to the coolant passage. I wasn't contradicting you, just offering another way I found to do it.

I'm really not sure why soooo many people say to plug certain spots with JB weld. When I gave up on my hitachi after 2 rebuilds and did the weber conversion I did everything in a way that is not permanent, just in case I ever want to try putting it back to factory. Instead of putting JB weld in the coolant pool under the carb in the intake manifold, i covered it with the gasket that came with the adapter and slathered the thing in indian head gasket shelak. Then I went under the manifold and pulled and plugged the rubber line that feeds coolant to that passage. As for the carb warmer hole, I can't remember right now how I plugged that. As for the 2 silencers on either side of the engine i used some of the small metal disks that you punch out of a breaker box, slathered those in gasket shelak as well before putting them in and it works great.

Well last winter after rebuilding the Hitachi twice, I got rid of the 5000RPM idle issue but then I ended up with really poor idle. So I finally went with the Weber and it runs like a dream, I changed the general conversion a little to make sure it isn't permanent. I have some small idle issues, but I am contributing those to the fact that my ignition system is kinda jurry rigged at the moment. As soon as I can afford the proper distributor I'm hopeful those will go away as well.

As was mentioned earlier on this thread, apparently the 2 core radiators from the BRZ will fit the older gen cars with some slight modifications to their mounts.

@Ionstorm66 For the ECU issue, try putting an aftermarket one on. I plan to use a megasquirt ECU for more exact tuning on my EA82T. People have apparently already done this on this engine, but in an RX.

@sull you can get brand new water pumps for the 81 and 82 engines from rockauto.

Can you get me the part number for that koyo radiator?

I measured my stock radiator. If I get an aftermarket one and mod the mounts to fit, the main part of the radiator has to be no taller than 14 inches and no wider than 29 and a half inches. Anyone know of a universal radiator around that size??

Could anyone give me a couple examples of aftermarket 2 core radiators that might be modded to fit an xt? Perhaps at least one with similar physical dimensions?