espey_16

Well I went to 7 junk yards yesterday and didn't fine anything. So I'm gonna buy some solenoids new.

Cleaned the MAF, and car is running at the moment. Code is still there along with egr/purge solenoids. Now I'm getting a 31 throttle sensor code.

Air flow meter = MAF I'm assuming. The coils or whatever they are, are a little dirty so I'm gonna spray some MAF cleaner on it and see if that works.

Ok, previous post was with green connectors hooked up. Unhooked I'm still getting 34 and 35, but now 23 comes up as well. I'm about to go to the junk yard and get a couple solenoids for 34 and 35, but I need to look up how to fix 23. I'll report back when I'm done.

I just tried to check my codes again, and the only thing it's doing is blinking 5 times fast indicating a code 5. I looked up the codes but there is no code 5. The car still won't run with the green test mode connectors hooked up also. It'll fire up then die even if I pump the gas.

What year was the Toyota?

Car won't respond to the gas pedal when the test wires are connected at all. Not sure what's going on.

I guess I'll have a friend keep the car running while the green wires are connected and I'll recheck the timing this weekend, and if it's that bad pull the disty and set it properly.

It was 7 months before I bought the car that the belts were replaced. What could cause the car to die when I plug the green connectors together?

Shortly after I bought the car I thought the belts might be off a tooth or two but I checked and they're right on. The previous owner also had them replaced right before I bought it.

I'm not sure if the individual lines are 1 or 2 degree increments, but I've got it 2 lines before 20* BTDC and there's no change. The shudder is better than before, but not gone. The disty is maxed out on adjustment also, so I'm curious if the previous owner had it pulled for whatever reason.

I adjusted it down to 20* BTDC and it seems to be ok for the most part. I didn't have to pump the gas just to leave from a stop, and it only shuddered a couple times on my test drive. When it does what it does, the gas pedal becomes in responsive and I have to push in the clutch and pump the gas to get the car back to normal. Much improved though since I adjusted the timing. I'm gonna go a little more and take another drive and report my findings.

I see the timing marks now, they're not coming all the way out to the pointer on the bell housing if that makes any sense. They are in the passenger side of the bell housing. Is it safe to adjust the disty without the green wires connected? I read in another post 20* BTDC, is this correct?

Bought a Toyota front axle for the gl, and put a 20" light bar on my roof rack.

What am I doing wrong??? Lol

Hey guys I'm back. I've been driving the car for quite some time with it throwing it's little fits and still can't figure out what's going on. I bought a timing light tonight to check that, but can't find any solid info on how to correctly check it. I've read that I have to unplug the vacuum advance from the disty and plug it, and connect the 2 green wires under the hood. Well my dusty has an electrical connector going to it, no vacuum line. And when I connect the green wires the car dies. It will start up with them connected but die if I'm not on the gas. I tried to see what it's set at by pointing the light at the flywheel without the green wires connected and I can't even see the timing marks.

I just lookout it up, it came out of a 91 legacy turbo sedan.

The part number on the diff is 27011AA131. I'm not sure if you can identify what it came out of by that but maybe you can.

I put my open diff in for now to make it drivable, now all I have to do is remove my drive line and get a u joint put in it and I'll be good.

I'll tell you in a few, the part number is on the tag. I can't figure out how to search my old posts or I could tell you now.

I got the stub out of the driver rear relatively easy, the passenger is still giving me hell though. I have it hanging through a vice with a spair brake hub on it, hitting it with a 5lb mini sledge and it still won't budge.

Ok, I got the diff side out I just don't know if it's ok to put it back in with that clip broken.

I'm in the process of replacing rear bearings and axles right now and while trying to separate the passenger axle from the viscous lsd the male shaft came completely out of the housing and the c clip holding it in is broken. Is there a part number for the clip or should I just throw an open diff in the rear or will it be safe to drive temporarily? Also, how am I supposed to get the ends out of the dojs?

Oreily auto parts sells rear axles, I just got 2 today.

I second the bighorns, I had a set on my last Subaru and they did great!