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To add some more info, when I replaced the transmission in my son's 2000 Outback last year I checked out the exhaust system very carefully since it was removed. There was no sign of any leaks. I reassembled the system with all new gaskets. Result was a continuation of P0420 codes on the same random schedule.

I just today bought a rear view mirror for my 2013 Outback with compass, auto-dimming, and Homelink for $78 at the local junkyard, Spaldings, in Spokane Valley, WA. I got the cable also and in 5 minutes upgraded my wagon to have Homelink so I could ditch the separate garage door opener. These mirrors appear to be fairly universal among the various Subaru models/years. Also the manufacturer is Gentex and probably one of the generic mirrors will work.

After nearly a year the window still works fine, no wind noise yet

No response from David Carter at ae64.com so far. I have looked on Crutchfield but they have no real diagrams or information on cables. I probably need to call them one day.

Found a site http://ae64.com that seems to have to right stuff. Will see if the guy answers my email.

Thanks for the info!

Do you want the gasket ending in -670 or the one ending in -770 as you state? My understanding is the -770 gasket is for the later design engines and have a different pattern for the cooling holes than the earlier engines. I am going to do the head gaskets in my 2000 OBW with an EJ25(1) I think and want to get the best gasket. Typically we recommend doing a piston ring replacement and piston skirt knurling if you can find a shop that does it. And you don't want to reseal the oil pump, replace it with a 10mm pump. The factory 7mm on that model is not sufficient. You want the head gasket ending in 770 part number. It's for the later turbo models. GD

I just purchased a base 2013 OBW. It has the base sound system. Anybody transplanted a Harmon-Kardon head unit in to one of these? I pulled the current head unit and the plug in cables are different than the H-K unit. I would like to keep the Bluetooth connection and the use of the steering wheel controls. Any ready made cable adapters out there for that?

I have not seen this. With my 2000 OBW with a manual transmission, purchased new, I finally replaced the rear pads at 166,000 miles not because they were worn out but just because. I do not engine brake but rather use the brakes, because pads are way easier to replace than the clutch. I am in the opinion that Subaru OEM brakes are great and long lasting. I have had a caliper pin seize which I could smell and took the caliper apart for cleaning and grease which fixed the problem.

I think the P0420 code is due to bad programming on Subaru's part. On my 2000 OBW, purchased new in March, 2000, I have had the P0420 codes intermittently since about 60K miles in probably 2005 or 2006. Now at 230K miles I can get the code once a week or so for a few weeks, then I won't see it again for months. I find it hard to believe that a small leak would come and go in this fashion. I think Subaru programmed the numbers wrong and a very small change in temps, humidity, fuel, cause this parameter to go out of bounds and set the code. I have replaced O2 sensors with no change in the pattern. If my cats were bad they would be long since been completely non-functional with the result that the code would be set all the time. But no! The code comes and goes randomly as it does on my son's 2000. I carry a code reader in the car and can reset the code when it occurs so I know how often it is set. If the code were continuous I would be working on it but the code is not continuous but rather it is random and I believe in error.

Thanks, hope it stays getting this better mileage!

I got a P0328 code a couple of weeks ago. Reset it and it came back after a few days. I was going on a 1500 mile trip so I ordered a cheap after market knock sensor for all of $12. It just takes a few minutes to install on my 2000 OBW. Just got back from the trip. I had no check engine light and my mileage went from 25 MPG or so to nearly 28 MPG. Wow!! Could this be attributed to the knock sensor? I had 4 fill-ups so it would seem to not be just chance. Before changing the knock sensor there was no noticeable knock or lack of power.

My 2000 had an occasional overheating problem with the overflow tank filled. No noticeable bubbles though. I thought head gaskets. A month ago or so I replaced the radiator with an aftermarket one that cost all of about $65 shipped. Since then even in near 100 degrees the coolant temp stays near 181 degrees, going up when I stop for a stoplight but almost immediately going back down as soon as I move. The radiator I removed was the original with 220,000 miles on it. I spent more than 30 minutes blowing all the junk out of the A/C condenser. It was really packed with stuff. It so far has been a cheap, easy, and 1 hour fix to the overheating problems. It only takes less than 30 minutes to drain the coolant and pull the radiator. Maybe take a look at that.

Be careful when dealing with Gripforce. They screwed me out of a flywheel. If you order from them make sure if there are any problems you take care of it sooner rather than later and be aware you will probably need to use Ebay or Paypal to get any satisfaction. Gripforce says lots of stuff on the phone about refunds and returns but they do not act on any of them. Gripforce strings you along until it is too late. In my case my refund was being put back on my credit card multiple times, none of which was actually true. I was too stupid and busy until it was too late.

I did the headgaskets in a 2000 OBW SOHC without removing the engine. Took some effort/time to figure out the correct angle to reinstall the drivers side head but it wasn't too bad. I used rubber bands to hold the head bolts in while lining up the head for the reinstall. I only used two hands!! The only two I had available, mine.

Can you pay for a subscription using Paypal? I filled out the checkout up to the final page with no indication of the available payment methods.

Just a follow-up on this. After nearly a month everything is still good. No wind noise at all from the window I adjusted.

Was looking through old posts. Thought I would add to this one. On my 00 OBW the slave cylinder PUSHES one end of the arm which then rotates around a fulcrum to push on the throwout bearing to disengage the clutch. I would think that since the rod coming out of the slave cylinder is going out further, ie longer, that as the clutch wears more fluid is in the slave cylinder. This would mean less fluid in the master cylinder so the fluid level should drop as the clutch material wears. Having said that the pushrod coming out of the slave cylinder only moves about a 1/2 inch. The slave cylinder is less than an inch in diameter so the amount of fluid that moves in to the slave is minimal, maybe 20-25 milliliter at maximum travel.

Just get a manual transmission Subie. I have towed my '00 OBW many thousands of miles with no problems.

These guys http://www.foreignengines.com/ had some dual range EJ transmissions last year.

A little background first. Somebody smashed the passenger side front window on my '00 OBW. They had first tried to pry the window open with something and so tore the rubber seal strip and bent the metal trim near the front top "corner" where the window begins the curve down to front triangle by the rear view mirror. I had an auto glass company come and replace the window however the repair guy didn't do a good job of aligning the glass. That made for wind noise at speeds above about 45 mph and even at lower speeds if windy. The fix. I spent a lot of time repairing the torn rubber seal with Goodyear rubber cement thinking that would fix the wind noise but of course it didn't. I finally got around to looking seriously at the fit of the window and comparing it to the drivers side. I discovered that the glass was not going completely and tightly up in to the rubber molding at that front bend. The FSM has a lengthy explanation about how the glass should be fitted and adjusted. That explanation is good but really doesn't make a lot of sense if you are just reading it. You need to go ahead and take the inner door panel off the door to gain access to all the adjustments for the procedure to begin to make sense. This weekend I did the adjustment. After getting the door panel off, take some time to look at all the pieces in the door that carry and control the window. Roll the window up and down, look down from the top in to door. With the light coming in you can see most of the stops and get an idea of how the whole thing works. In my case the replacement window was set too far back, the glass was tipped forward, and the front stop was set too low. Following the instructions I did the following. 1. Loosened the B channel nut and aligned the back edge of the window glass to the center pillar, ie the pillar between the front and rear seat windows. This was confusing because the FSM doesn't show the location of the nut clearly. It is almost directly below the pair of screws labeled A in the diagram, and is hidden behind the plastic sheeting sealing the door. 2. With the glass aligned to the center pillar, the glass was too far back. To move it forward you loosen four nuts, two each at the places labeled A and B in the diagram. Careful when you loosen the last nut because then the whole window is free to move. I moved the glass forward and then tightened a couple of the nuts. Roll the window up to see how the fit is. In my case I had to do this 3 times to get the glass to the correct place. 3. With the glass lined up now it still was hitting the front stop before compressing in to the rubber molding. You can see the moving piece on the window frame coming up and hitting the stop through a hole in the metal part of the door. To adjust you loosen the nut and move the stop in the direction needed. Lower the window to get some clearance between the two parts of the stop before adjust otherwise it allows the window to sort of pop upward. Also if you need to move the stop down you obviously cannot do that with the two parts in contact. The window also rolls up and near the top of travel gets tipped in by how angled the metal channel that the glass rides in is set. This tipping or angle is set by the bolts labeled A and B, the same ones that set the forward/aft setting of the glass. To see how this works, look down from the top of the window in to the door. The glass rides in a metal channel, the top of that metal channel is held by a bracket held by the two sets of bolts labeled A and B. The bracket is threaded so to change the angle you loosen the nut on a bolt, turn the bolt, then tighten the nut to lock it back in place. It is sort of the same as how you adjust the valves on the engine head. Do one bolt at a time, or at least do one of the pairs, A or B, at a time. If you loosen all four of them then the glass can move forward and back. I had to lower the rear stop after adjusting the front stop because the change of the front stop changed how the glass angled and locked the rear part of the glass in the channel of the door seal so I couldn't open the door. I then had to play with the angle of the tipping to get the door to open and close nicely and to get a good seal. It takes a while to do all this. Each adjustment you make to one part changes how the other adjustments act. What you have to do is change what is wrong, then find the next adjustment that is wrong and fix that and so on. Use the matching window on the other side of the car as a pattern of how the glass is supposed to fit. Keep making changes until it looks correct and make sure the door opens and closes without undue effort. Take the car for a test drive before putting it all back together keeping in mind that that seal on the bottom of the door is attached to the inner panel so you will hear wind noise from that. Took my car up to 75 mph with no wind noise so I called that good. This is probably all as clear as mud. I wrote this up because the FSM has just the bare facts with no real indication of what does what to actually get the window adjusted. Hope this helps someone.

What would you do? Another update at about 20K miles on the dual range transmission. No problems. Everything is working fine. Now to get off my A$$ this Summer and make a linkage to be able to use the dual range.

Put me in the newer the better camp. I started driving with the proverbial junker, in my case it cost $10 plus some elbow grease. I thought that is what kind of car my kids would drive when they got old enough. Fate intervened. As my oldest kid approached driving age I read an article that made a lot of sense to me. The point of the article was that we tend to put our worst driver, ie the 16 yr old, the driver most likely to get in an accident, in the worst, least safe car that the family owns. That is all backward .... the driver most likely to crash should have the most crash-worthy car. In my case I padded my son's car savings to get him in to a 2000 OBW wagon with front and side airbags, anti-lock brakes etc. Did the same when my daughter came of age. My daughter managed to have a few wrecks learning to drive and survived them with only bruises and scrapes at least in part due to her Subaru's ability to protect her. The crash-worthiness of cars, ie ability for the occupant to survive a crash alive and in the best shape, has improved dramatically since the 1990s. Go for as new as you can afford, at least in to the 2000s for a new driver. Or let them drive one of your newer cars until they have a few years experience under their belt.

The Exedy clutch I bought from GripForce was as ordered and I used it. It was fine. For all I know the LUK flywheel would have been fine. It just wasn't the Exedy that I wanted and ordered and paid for. The problem I had was GripForce shipping the wrong product and then refusing to refund me after I had returned that wrong product. Lots of places to purchase Exedy products. I personally have taken GripForce off my list as a place to do business with. Any body with business practices like they have is not worth the hassle.

Just a heads up on that GripForce package. I bought that from GripForce last year. They shipped a LUK flywheel instead of an Exedy. I asked to return it and after many messages and calls they gave me the information to do that. I returned the flywheel last June and to date have still not received a credit for it. Grip Force has as many excuses for no refund as I have calls to them, about 15 or so. Excuses range from they didn't get it (I have their signature for the package), to they can't refund because I didn't get an RMA. Their rep on the phone said nothing about an RMA just gave me the address etc to return the flywheel. Probably 5 or six times they said the refund would be processed that week, of course that never happened. I am out the $80 or so for the flywheel. I would be very careful dealing with Grip Force. If there is a problem don't believe anything they say and get on your refund through different channels like PayPal or Ebay or your credit card company at the first hint of any problem. You will get nothing but excuses and being shined on from Grip Force.