wirelessenabled

Just a follow up on this job. The car is doing great, now approaching 200K miles or about 15K miles on the dual range transmission. Fuel mileage has stayed the same as with the old transmission. Have not tried to put it in low range but I am getting the itch to do that. Maybe this Summer. Only weird thing is that the clutch pedal is very "light" as in takes little effort to push it in. I have the same Exedy clutch in my other '00 Outback and that clutch is harder to push. The clutch works fine with no slippage or anything.

Factory service manual says to use engine oil on the head bolt threads and washers.

If it is a P0420 code I have had that for 100K+ miles on my two 2000 OBWs. I have replaced upstream and downstream O2 sensors, checked for leaks in intake and exhaust, tune up stuff etc, etc. The code comes and goes and like I said has for over 100,000 miles on both of these cars. My suggestion is to get an OBDII sender and use Torque or some free App on your phone to read it. The bluetooth senders cost all of about $6 to $20 or so. When the P0420 code comes reset it and keep track of how long the check engine light stays out. What I found is that the CEL for P0420 takes many cycles of the car to reset itself so you really don't know how often it is being actually set without having the ability to reset it. I find that that P0420 code is set when we get a big change of weather. Like now over the last few weeks P0420 has been set 3 times about once each week. Always when the car is cold in the morning and I am decelerating from 50mph or so. After winter sets in I won't see another P0420 code for several months. In the Spring I will see it again for a few weeks. I believe the real problem is a fault in the ECU programming being too sensitive to short duration changes in what the downstream O2 sensor detects. I am still running the original cat on both of these cars. If you need to pass emissions like I do just take your code reader with you. If the CEL happens to come on while going for the emissions check you can just reset it. These cars are too old to have the OBD stuff that keeps track of how long it has been since a code was reset. $2600? Not a chance!! Forgot to add that I still get 25-27 mpg with these cars with over 200K miles on them. That is as good as I ever got even when new so I believe the car is running fine and efficiently and not polluting the environment.

Transmission cooler on a 5 speed? First I have heard of that. I wouldn't think that towing would make a manual transmission heat up any more than it would normally. With an automatic yes but not a manual. My 2000 5 speed has no outlets or inlets to plumb a cooler anyway so it would all be homemade.

For part numbers and exploded views of the various systems keep a bookmark for http://opposedforces.com/

I replaced the manual transmission in my 00 OBW this Spring. I didn't read enough beforehand and so I replaced the rear main seal. Used a Subaru replacement, they are only $12 or so. So far no leak in about 1500 miles. Or at least not a large enough leak to be coming out of the opening in the bottom between the block and the transmission. I just cleaned it up meticulously, used a green scratch pad lightly on the crankshaft, and then polished the crankshaft with crocus cloth. Drove it in the same as the original which was slightly, maybe 1/32", deeper than flush with the block. Used a 3" ABS cap as a driver as someone stated above.

To complete this topic, I installed the JDM dual range transmission today. If fit in fine with no problems. Car drives nice now! To answer the dual range lever question above ... the lever on the transmission is put to the rear for high range. I just zip tied it in that position. Thanks for all the help getting this car back on the road.

I installed the dual range transmission today in my 2000 OBW. Fit in fine with no problems. I ended up just leaving the dual range linkage, or what was left of it, bolted on the tranny. It made a convenient place to zip tie the lever in high range. Now just need to find the time to make a shifter for it

Congrats! Nice looking rig.

I figured out the hi range / lo range. Counted turns on the input shaft to turns on the front drive stubs. Hi range is with the dual range lever in the aft position. Lo range the lever is forward. If I am figuring it correctly it also seems that the gear change is 1.44:1 when in lo range. Everything I read seemed to indicate that the ratio was 1.19:1. Here is how I checked. Put the transmission in gear. 1st I think. Turned the input shaft with the old clutch disk. In hi range I counted 14.25 rotations of the clutch disk to 1 rotation of the front drive stub. In lo range it was 20.5 to 1 rotation. 20.5/14.25=1.44 or so.

I used Permatex Ultra Grey to seal the oil pump. If you use it be careful not to use too much, just a very thin coat including around the bolt holes. Too much will squeeze out from the sealing surface and dry in to chunks which can cause problems if circulated in the oil system.

Pics of the transmission. The heavy black wire is holding the transmission to the pallet for shipping. Closeup of the dual range shifter.

I got a dual range JDM transmission to put in my 2000 OBW. I didn't get the shifter linkage for it and do not have time to cobble something together right now. I want to lock the transmission in high range. Anybody have an idea which way to put the dual range shifter lever for high range. My idea is just to put it in high range and tie wire it to keep it there. Or any one have a low mileage 4.111 final drive 5 speed they want to trade for this? The transmission I have is a TY755XS2AA out of a MY01 Forester. I am in Spokane, WA.

Original transmission was bad. I found a cheap JDM dual range to swap in to the car. Planning to just lock the D/R lever in to high range. Anybody know which way to put that lever on the transmission? Towards the front/bell housing or towards the rear/output shaft?

I am currently working on a 2000 OBW. It has 185,000 miles on it and the original clutch is worn so that there are almost no grooves left in the friction material. It is still a ways before the rivets would be grinding on the flywheel though. No way to look at the friction material. Remember the clutch friction disk is inside the pressure plate which is bolted to the flywheel.

The lack of replies to this post may be because Subaru does not sell the diesels in the US so we have no experience with them.

The transmission I had hoped to get didn't work out. Work has intervened so I sent the transmission off to a friend. He will open it up and let me know.

My 2000 OBW had a similar problem of not locking. In my case you could hear the actuator thunking when you pressed the remote. It is a simple matter to remove the inside trim on the tailgate to access the lock and actuator. My actuator was working but the plastic piece that attached the actuator arm to the locking mechanism had broken. Being the pack rat I am I still have the actuator part #60319FA201. It does not look like it is easily rebuildable. Looks like that part number only fits up through 2004. Wow $75 at online dealers. I lucked out and got a new one on Ebay for $15 or so I my memory is correct,

Thanks for the info! I have a friend who says he has a line on a used transmission with 120K miles on it for under $500. I haven't opened up the transmission yet waiting to see if that pans out. I have also been looking on car-parts.com. Most of them anywhere near are in the 150K mile range and about $800. Thanks for the info on a possible repair to this transmission. There are three of these Subies in the immediate family so at some point I will be opening up the case for a look.

Thanks for the info. Is that scenario economically repairable? Or is a used donor transmission the better option?

I cannot feel any forward or backward movement on the input shaft. I need to wait to have help to carry out the other ideas. Meanwhile I will study the transmission diagram to better understand it and to see where the nylon chunk may have come from.

I'll try moving the input shaft. Getting close to just splitting the case. Thanks for the help!

The input shaft spins freely in neutral. When I put it in a gear, first I think, it spins fairly easily for a turn or two and then still turns but is harder to turn. Then after 1/2 revolution or so it spins more easily. The output shaft is turning while this happens as well as the two stub axles. I can only seem to find one gear, pushing the shifter shaft straight forward. The transfer case/center diff is removed so should the axles be turning? How much should I be able to rotate the shifter shaft? I removed the oil drain plug to look inside and found a chunk of twisted up white nylon in the hole. Maybe the remains of a nylon flat washer? It is not the drain plug gasket which is metal and still on the drain plug. When I first drained the oil I found one little piece of steel sheet that was twisted up. Laid flat was about 1/4" square. About 26 gauge or so. Thanks for the help!

Took an old center diff I had apart tonight. The photos show all the parts inside the unit and a set of the plates of which there are maybe 20 sets inside. There are 2 large orings, one on each end and a square cross-section type ring that seals the inner shaft. The silicone oil is very thick, sticky and dark colored. I made a huge mess! The center diff seems very rebuildable. Anybody ever tried to rebuild one of these Phase 2 ones? The VW Vanagon guys seems to replace the orings and the silicone oil in theirs. .

Some background. 2000 OBW with 5sp manual 185K miles. Driving down the freeway at 65mph. I hear a barely noticed a squeal a couple of times. 30 miles later skidded to a stop with all four wheels locked up. Got the car home and started looking in to it. 1. Car starts and runs fine. No physical damage anywhere. 2. Clutch engages and disengages although the TO bearing is now noisy. 3. Can shift through and engage all gears, but car stalls when I let out the clutch. 4. Put car up on jacks. Spin a wheel and the other side of the axle spins the opposite way with no noticeable grinding or clunking. Both front and rear differentials seem ok. 5. Took the rear driveline apart at the rear diff carrier. Rear wheels act fine spinning the driveline if one is held etc. 6. Took out the transmission, time for a clutch anyway. 7. Still locked up from the input shaft to the output shaft. 8. Removed transfer case with center diff/viscous coupler and other gears. 9. If I put rods through the pin holes in the stub axles the transmission spins fine. Can sort of shift through the gears. No grinding or rough parts in the rotation. 10. Spiral retaining ring is still on the center differential. A little bluing at the small end and near where the the holes to the spider gears are. No noticeable damage. Cannot get the center diff guts to rotate at all even using a screwdriver to pry at the small spider gears. Where do I go from here? Does this describe a failure mode for a center diff? Or something else? Any ideas on how to decide if the center diff is bad? I do not have a spare serviceable center diff. Ideas on how to check out the transmission? I'd prefer to not split it just yet since there was no indication of any problem with the transmission before this incident. Other ideas? I have read most of the center diff topics on here and other forums but didn't find any ideas about how to test one. Thanks!