
wirelessenabled
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When I did the HG on my 00 OBW with SOHC engine last year I had the heads rebuilt. While I had them on the bench I very carefully set the rocker to valve stem clearances. After I got the heads back on the engine the clearances were all wrong. I still don't know why the clearances would change just bolting the heads on to the engine but that was my experience.
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For what it is worth ... and I have my anti-flame shield on. My 2000 OBW with SOHC started to use about 2-3 ounces of coolant each tank of fuel at about 190K miles. Also had the exhaust smell and black junk in the coolant reservoir and a slight sweet smell of burning coolant. I continued to drive it because I was too busy to fix it. Before having time to fix it I had to take a 1600 mile round trip. Everything was fine until I was about 400 miles from home when it started to overheat. I had to put coolant in about every 100 miles. I got to my destination nearly 800 miles from home. No place to work in the car and not really wanting to stop all the time on the way home. A search brought up lots of "fixes" and I finally decided to put some liquid head gasket fix in the car with the idea of being able to get home and do a proper fix. I used Bars Leak 1111 following the instructions on the $25 bottle exactly. I drove it some before heading home replacing about a pint of coolant that disappeared. I started the drive home, monitoring temps very carefully. I stopped at about 100 miles and added 1-2 ounces of coolant. Drove another 150-200 miles and again had to add maybe 2 ounces of coolant. After that I didn't need to add any coolant until I got home. I continued driving the car and over the next month or so drove maybe another 1000 miles and added a few ounces of coolant. Since then, last September, I have driven another 5K miles and have had no coolant loss and am now coming up on 200K miles on the car. This was not what I expected. I was fully prepared to replace the HG having done the HGs on my son's '00 OBW last Spring using Six Star replacements. I will probably take the engine apart this Summer and do the HGs but using the Bars Leak 1111 bought me time to do the replacement on my own schedule.
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Replaced the front pads on my 2000 OBW, 5 speed, for the first time at 170,000 miles. Worn down to nothing. Still keeping track of the rears which are original! Squeakers had broken so had no warning when the pads were gone. OEM pads are great
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Just finished upgrading my daughters 02 Legacy sedan to keyless entry. Took all of 20 minutes:clap: and about $50 worth of parts from Ebay. First couple of tries I couldn't get the fob to program. Thought I had screwed it up but tried again. The key to success is that you have to follow the process in the owners manual EXACTLY. 1. Open the drivers door, sit in drivers seat. 2. Close drivers door. 3. Put key in ignition and cycle to on 10 times within 15 seconds. 4. Horn beeps once. 5. Within 45 seconds open drivers door, close drivers door, push any button on the fob. Horn beeps twice. 6. Repeat #5 for any other fobs up to four. 7. Remove key from ignition. Horn beeps three times. In my case I had the key IN the ignition first, then opened and closed the drivers door. That doesn't work. You have to open/close the drivers door BEFORE you put the key in the ignition. As I said above follow the instructions exactly.
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I have had an on and off P0420 on my '00 OBW for about 36 months. When it started I replaced the plugs, coil and air filter and front O2 sensor,and cleaned the idle air controller. After that it would come on a few times a week and then go off. Two weeks ago I replaced the plugs again, after only 30K miles on them, and the check engine light has been off since, over 1500 miles. Maybe I had a bad/defective plug? My mileage also increased about 3 MPG to right at 27 MPG. Who woulda thought?
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I have been chasing P0420 for a couple of years on my 00 OBW. New O2 sensors etc. If I cleared the code it would usually be ok for a week or so. Then it would start being on for a few days, off for some short period then back on and so on. Never off for more than a week over the last 2 years. At the end of July I was cleaning up the engine compartment and disconnected the battery for a couple of hours. Haven't had P0420 since then which is nearly 5 weeks now. Easy to do, might be worth a try.
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Went ahead and did the rears this week at 126K miles. Still had life in them but since I had it all apart anyway and had time I replaced pads and cleaned up everything else. Just cleaned up the rotors on my buddies machine and put them back on well within spec. The fronts were still so good I just left them. Maybe next year:clap:
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Bought it new. Has a 5 speed and I am one of those who believe that it is easier/cheaper to replace brakes than clutches so I don't shift down to slow down. Still has original clutch too. I live in the country but only 4 miles from work so it is not just 400 mile freeway trips. Funny thing is that with about 50 miles on the car there was a big gouge or groove in one of the front rotors. Took it back to the dealer and made them replace it. Maybe they replaced the rotors and pads with kryptonium ones I am thinking about doing the brakes this summer because of time.
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My experience with Arctic Alpins was terrible. On my '00 OBW a belt broke at 18k miles. Dealer response was give me $59 although I had to buy a set of 4. Opted to go with some Kumhos. We'll see how they work this winter. On my wife's Chrysler AWD van they always pounded from new ... belt problem maybe? Got 26k out of them before they were completely shot. Great traction in snow but lousy build quality.
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'00 Outback Limited 5MT with the 1st of model year small rotors. 108K miles on original pads/rotors. Still plenty of material left. I do a fair amount of in town driving, never shift down except going down long hills figuring it is cheaper/easier to change brake stuff than clutch stuff. Going to change brakes this summer just due to excessive longevity:banana: