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Had gas smell on my 00 OBW. Finally found it was a tiny intermittent leak in the rubber hose going to the passenger side front cylinder. Hidden way under the intake. With a bright light was able to see a small "clean" spot. New hose and clamps, smell gone:banana:

Washington based Subie here. I do at least 8K miles on snow/ice every winter chasing my ski-racer son. Frequently haul Suburban drivers who are stuck.

Its a car, not your first born! At 200k miles dings like this don't matter! Just drive your Subie to 200K like the rest of us and no worries:D

97K on my '00 OBW. Not even a hint of slippage yet. But my 15 yr old son started driving it last month. We'll see what happens:clap:

Ace Hardware has it available. If yours doesn't stock it just tell them to order it for you!

Don't know specifically about your car but every rotor I have ever seen has had the minimum thickness dimension stamped into it near the hub. Usually "MIN 1.25" " Or "Min thickness X mm"

Why would my firewall block your link?

Amsoil 75w-90 has worked fine in my '00 OBW. Was noticably easier to shift when I changed a few years ago. Was 10 degrees below zero the other day and still shifted well. Not so with dino. It was so stiff that you had to wait for it to warm up to drive.

My 2000 OBW w/84500 miles started smelling sweet around Xmas. I had already dumped the coolant conditioner into the car when the recall first came out. Didn't take it in to the dealer though. So I changed the coolant and put another bottle of conditioner in. Stopped the leak instantly! But then last week back to the sweet smell of coolant frying on the exhaust. Talked to dealer about it and made appt for them to put conditioner in. Changed the coolant again so as to not have 2 cans of the conditioner in it and took the car to the appt. Sweet smell of coolant wafting up as the writer checked the car in. They put conditioner in it and it still leaked. By the time I got back a hour later they were already taking the car apart. Replaced both sides head gaskets and all rubber parts near there under warranty.:cool: Had them replace water pump, timing belt, cam seals, all other belts etc. They nicked me $400 for my share of repair. Now if they did it right I should be good to go for another 100K miles:) The dealer stepped up even though I had not complied with the letter of the recall. If you smell coolant leaks before 100K take it in. You should have a good chance of getting work done under warranty. If your dealer won't, check around or call the zone rep.

See my post above "Start it, idles nicely at 1500, back out of my garage without touching throttle, when I push the clutch back in it surges to between 2500-3200." No amount of feathering the clutch changes this behavior. Book says idle should increase to 1500 while cold then go back to 750 when warm.

I have the same problem with my 2000 OBW MT w/ 80k miles. Start it, idles nicely at 1500, back out of my garage without touching throttle, when I push the clutch back in it surges to between 2500-3200. If I shift in to neutral and let the clutch out it goes back to 1700 or so. Happens for about 30 seconds and then car is perfect. No difference with A/C on/off, lights etc. Slightly worse in winter. I have changed plugs from platinum to OEM Subie NGKs. New wires, new coil, new temp sender, removed and cleaned IAC, ran Seafoam through the TB. Checked all hoses for vacuum leaks. No codes set on OBDII. Just living with it for now.

Just get a Thule pod. You can get one for about $250 that will hold at least 8 pr skis. Get the silver one because it is so easy to mount. Only loose pieces of hardware are the 4 square (U) bolts. Takes about 4 minutes to mount to the factory rack of my '00 OBW. Drove about 4000 miles last year to ski races with no fewer than 6 pr skis in it. I think one time we had 10 pr including short twin tips. No problems with the factory rack taking the weight. The pod costs me about 1.5 MPG from 28+ to about 26.5 MPG.

Years ago I was in South Lake Tahoe driving my 1961 Mercury with a welded in trailer hitch/ball. It was a howling snowstorm and I had chains on the rears. I came up to a stoplight, stopped, and was slammed in the rear by a big (for those days) Chevy 4x4 pickup. We both got out and looked at the damage. His truck was stuck to the rear of my car and so I got in and pulled about 5 feet forward. Doing so pulled nearly the entire front end off his truck. The steam was rising and the scene was ugly. I mumbled my apologies (for him hitting me!) and drove off. Looking at my Mercury later I could only find a very slight scratch on the trailer ball! Maybe they do build 'em like they used to!

Went ot Home Depot. They had a grand total of 11 O-rings LOL. Go to your local Ace Hardware/independent hardware etc. They have a 100 sizes or more! Certainly have had all the O-rings I have needed over the years.

If you plan on doing this for a while buy an oil drain valve from http://www.fumotovalve.com/ with the hose stub and don't worry about the copper gasket, or the oil pan, or the drips and mess. I put a hose on mine, put the other end in empty windshield washer gallon bottles and drain. No muss no fuss. Loosen the filter then slide a 1 gallon zip lock bag over and remove it.

Just got finished chasing same symptom. My '00 with 70K miles started missing very occasionally in Dec. Not badly but sometimes annoying. No codes set. Got worse ever so slowly until finally would not climb hills in cruise control on the freeway. Was the plug wires even though they tested ok.

Thanks for the info. I think I will just let the dealer add another bottle.

If you get the dealer to sign off that the additive was used you get the warranty on the HG extended to 100K miles. My dealer won't do that unless they dump the additive in themselves. Unfortunately they won't do it in 15 minutes, they want the car all day with no courtesy service. That is the reason I did it myself in the first place.

I have a '00 OBW with Phase II 2.5 with 61K miles. When I changed my coolant about a month ago I went and got a bottle of the new magic additive from the dealer. I changed the coolant and put the additive in figuring I could show the receipt and get the dealer to sign off on it. No dice. Called SOA and the agent said no problem, got my VIN and said it was entered into my files. He called back the next day and said he couldn't do it. My question is would it be harmful to go to the dealer and get them to dump in another bottle of the additive? Or should I just change out my new coolant and then go to the dealer?

I have a Fumoto with nipple on a MY00 Outback 5MT wagon. The nipple is above the "skid" plate on the bottom of the car so to rip off the nipple one would be scraping the bottom of the tranny. I like the valve with the nipple because it lets me put a hose on and drain the oil straight in to gallon jugs for recycling. I loosen the filter and then grab it with a gallon ziplock plastic bag. Makes for oil changes with no drips at all! The Fumoto valve feels very solid and well made.

I switched to Amsoil 5W30 in my '00 OB with 60K on it. I plan to go 25,000 miles or one year with the oil and change the filter at 12,500 or 6 months per Amsoil recommendations. So far at at 5,000 miles or so the oil is only slighty darker than at the start, my mileage is up nearly 10%. We'll see how it goes. I'll probably do oil analysis when I change the filter.

In college went from Davis, CA to Gananoque, Canada in 51 hours elapsed. Took a rider to help me drive but after his first stint I was so scared I couldn't sleep again. Dropped him off in Sharon,PA and continued on. Total was about 2850 miles if I remember correctly. Got stopped in western Nebraska doing 90 MPH at about 2am. The cop gave me a warning and said he was going to broadcast my plate number out. If I got stopped again in NE would be going to jail. Nebraska is about 550+ miles west to east. Went out the east end of NE at about 85. This was during the national 55 mph speed limit.

I installed a Fumoto valve in my 00 OB with the tube attach extension. Works great and doesn't hang below the guard. Now I went and put Amsoil synthetic in so won't be using the valve much:)

Thanks!

161000 km is 100041 miles. 1 km is .62 mile 1 mile is 1.61 km