rigfennid

BINGO! Attention to details is what makes or breaks almost any project.

Thanks guys!! Turns out it was the upper of the 2 switches on the clutch pedal assembly. The lower one must be the cruise control switch, the upper being the clutch safety switch. I've got a jumper wire in there for now but will be ordering a replacement part shortly. Thanks for the schematics & tips. Y'all ROCK!!!

It just quit on me the other day. I can bump start it (with help!) but don't have a wiring schematic. When I turn the key I get nothing, not even a click from a relay. I guessed it was the clutch safety switch on the clutch pedal assembly, but it looks like there are two of them. I replaced the lower one but that didn't help. At the top of the pedal assembly there appears to be another similar type of switch but that would be a pain to replace. I disconnected the connectors from both switches and checked for power on both wires (for each connector) and get nothing when connected to a test light. so: 1) Should there be power going to these connectors when the key is in the RUN position? 2) How difficult is it to replace the upper switch? 3) What else should I check? I checked both fuse boxes and they all look fine. Battery has plenty of juice as well. HELP!!! thanks all!!

I need to do my right-rear wheel bearing but didn't know AutoZone had presses!! Then again, I'm out in BF Colorado... I'm lucky that I've got a buddy that's been a Ford mechanic for over 25yrs, 'cuz them big diesels are EXPENSIVE to fix. For my Scooby, I've got this board and the vast amounts of knowledge shared by many talented people. A huge thanks to all of you!!

I got those same hours quoted - was told "that's the book rate" - and people wonder why they call it the stealership.... I supplied the axles, but had the work done while my 97 OB was up on a lift. It took the guys 45min to do BOTH front axles. 1.5hrs per side??? They must give a 10-yr old 3 spoons and a wood block and then time how long it takes them to do the job.

Thanks porcupine!! I bought NGK's for her and I'll see how she does with that, but might get some wires too. Any recommendations on that? I wanted a sedan but finding one that hasn't been ratted out is nearly impossible, so I got a wagon with 189,000 miles for $900! 5-speed & AWD too! Anything I should look for? I had a 97 but that was a 2.5 so the 2.2 is new to me.

I just bought a 94 Legacy and don't have a manual. What is the gap spec for the plugs?

I don't have a manual yet (just bought a 94) but I'm going to be putting in new plugs and don't know what the gap to use. It's a 94 Legacy L Wagon 5-speed in case that matters. Eventually I want to swap in a 2.0 WRX motor & tranny... hehehe - Josh, are you listening? I've got a new toy!!

You can talk to Emily at CCREngines - she'll know EXACTLY what'll work

Check with CCR in Denver - I got mine from them and it's been fine.... just wish I'd have had the time to get a WRX motor instead... 2.5s have no guts to them then again, i grew up on big V8s and now ride 1000cc sportbikes... if my car could accelerate like my bike... i'd live in a box!!! back on track - http://www.ccrengines.com - Emily and Rick REALLY know their stuff

I'm up in Loveland and I think my O2 sensors are getting sketchy, but otherwise, I still gas up at either Safeway or Sam's Club. My mileage has been down, but then, my bike racks were mounted up. They're off now that it's getting cooler out (though today was almost 70 here!! WICKED!!) so my mileage should pick back up. I keep an eye on it and will post back if I notice any significant changes.

hey swi66 - i can do you one better - i took my 86 Accord in for an oil change, and they swore to me that because of my mileage (and I admitted to never having had it done before) that I was in serious need of a fuel injection system cleaning for $120 (i think) one problem - that car had carburetors.... finding a good mechanic you can trust is incredibly hard, so using multiples is about the next best thing i'd say

I don't know the voltage specs, but you might want to check the connector and test the wiring as well - a new t-stat for me was about $16 from the stealership, but I'd but from Liberty subaru - 201.261.0900 - mention the USMB for our pricing

My 97 Outback has 161,000 miles on it and I have Magnecor wires, so I figured replacing the coil was due. Part number for the ignition coil for my model/year is 22433AA360. Retail was $100, but I got it from Liberty Subaru for $75 +S&H by mentioning this message board. The guys up there in Parts really take care of you - thanks guys!! Installation is 10 minutes - 10mm socket on a 6" extension to unbolt it, unplug it, and reverse that for install, and that's it! Now a couple days of driving to see how she's doing. If it's the wires, they've got a bomber guarantee, but I'd be surprised if they were bad. I'll post again in a few days with results. maaahhhhvelous!

Do you remember how much the coil cost? any chance you've got a part number? thanks!!