MDW25gt

Those are great pictures. Looks like a real blast. I love the 211 Legacy!

I think these quick lube places are criminal at best. No excuse for not checking the level 3 time if needed? I have heard too many bad stories. These places are of no use to me.

I have never seen 2x and then back to normal??

I agree! I would have gone over it carefully after getting it back. Then again I would have changed it my self. Smelling oil and not checking it for over 3000 miles is negligent on your part. Dont be afraid to ask if you dont know how. Do you check the air in your tires?

OK so change the title. Nothing wrong with a list of "watch outs"! This could be a valuable list to many.

You should have a before fit pic. maybe I missed it? Looks like a new car to me! It is always a pleasure to get back in my ride after driving a lesser car!

As I look at the photos again, this is my observation. On the head the 2 cooling passages at the leak area have LESS than half the bearing surface than there is between any of the other passages. If I was the engineer in charge of solving this, my approach would be like this. 1) Run FEA heat transfer to failure paying close attention to this area. (baseline) 2) Run FEA structual/sealing analysis to failure, paying close attention to this area. (baseline) 3) Make design changes to the head at the leak area. maybe shorten the 2 cooling passages by 10mm. gives 20mm additional bearing surface. 4) re-run step 1 to failure. compare results to baseline. 5) re-run step 2 to failure. compare results to baseline. Continue iterative process until balanced improvement is achived. My guess is this has been done. I hope! And the result is the heat transfer needs in this area are governing the cooling passage design. In turn the failure due to structure and seal show up in our cars. just my 2 cents Mike

Coolent over flow tank filling up after running on highway. Was not until the latest stages that over heating started. I also noticed that after a coolent flush and replace that the problems got worse. Could have been not getting the air all out during refill. But I also suspect the flush used could also have been a contributer. I ran for at least a year after the flush so I dont think the refill was the problem. I think it would have failed in less than a year if that had been the problem.

This is a great thread. I want to stay plugged into the lates thinking. I replaced my engine 30k miles ago. In 99 LGT. It had 127 miles, but the gasket had been blown for at least 25k miles. New short block, heads, the works. Used the latest HG. So far so good. The guy that did the new engine was NOT a Subie dealer. Trained most of the Subie dealer mechanics in Cincinnati though. Very careful about his work. I am please with the results. I hate to think of replacing the HG in the near future.

I dont like the idea of flushing the entire system with the marginal head gasket design. When I do it in the spring, I believe I will pull the radiator out and have it cleaned. per Nip's reco.

Can you explain the details of this a little more? Is the carrier bearing a serviceable item or not? Or do you need to replace the entire drive shaft to get the carrier bearing?

You changed two things if I understand correctly. Struts and springs. Yes?? No?? You could be feeling difference due to springs?? I have put KYBGR2s on 2 cars. I would not call the ride stuffer in either case.

I am in agreement with what you say on replacing tranny with used. My only concern is, How do I determine if I have got a "Good" used 5 speed?

Thanks for the info. I got the details for the cocktail and will do the first chance I have. Whats the best way to determine if the carrier bearing is bad? If I go the route of replace the viscous coupling and carrier bearing, Is the dealer the best place to get them?

I have 170k on the original trans. current symptoms: Syncros going in 1st Binding in tight turns after driving on highway thumping through floor at engage and disengagement of clutch My thought is: #1 could be fixed with used transmission #2 needs viscous coupling, could be fixed with used trans #3 needs carrier bearing?? replace bearing when swapping trans Is my thought process sound? Any recos on where to get a "good" used trans? How to determine if used trans is good? Will carrier bearing fix symptom #3? Is there anything else to consider? I have gotten price of $1000 for used trans with claimed 30-35k miles. Is this reasonable? What should it cost to install? Thanks for any thoughts. Mike

Thanks Nipper, My thoughts are the same. I have not seen the car yet but all of what you say will come into the review. I cant believe anyone would do H2o pump and not timing belt?? Sounds like it spent a year parked on the street in Manhattan. Therefore lots of door dings, but may have sat neglected for that time too?? TBD Will keep posted. Thanks again, Mike

I found a 95 LSi sedan AWD 2.2L, auto with 74600 miles. Cosmetic bumps and dings on body but sounds mechanicaly sound. Recent replaced water pump and "Checked" timing belt. new pads and rotors. standard LSi options nothing additional. asking $3980! Does this sound reasonable? Outstanding? Jump on it? Any thing to watch out for on the model year? Thanks in advance, Mike

OK I'll take one! Just a couple things to meet my preference. Quicksilver color, no tail fin, and get the steering wheel on the correct side.

I put OE Brembos rotors, Hawk HPS pads and Motul RBF 600 on my '99 LGT. Got all from Tirerack. 10.7" diameter is correct as Jamel says.

If you leave the engine in place, The place that you could have problems is getting the cam bolts out. In my DOHC both cams had to come out in order to get to the head bolts. The cam bolts were tighter than a ***************. If you mess up the bolts it gets a lot deeper. Be sure to get the torque specs for all of the bolts. Note there are 2 different size bolts for the cam bolts. Also 2 different torques. Also a specific pattern and process to tightening the head bolts. Be sure you get the latest and greatest version of gasket. If you have all the details you should be ok.

Thanks Carl, That is the problem I have. The 1st gear synchro is in its last throws. The '06 sounds like an option to look at. Does the '06 have the DCCD business? The 6mt would be sweet, but too much pain in the rump roast to me. Mike

I did read the link. But your explaination here helps to define the fabrication stuff and diffeculty with the mechanicals. But if the rear gear is the same ratio between my car and the donor car then the gearing is not the problem. It sounds like the different axles are the main problem. I dont like the custom axles stuff. I also didnt understand the R160 & the R180. Is this the axle difference in diameter? This sounds like the major show stopper. The link you posted was a swap 5mt to 6mt in a WRX. So I can see that he probably had an eaiser time of the mechanicals. I did not realize that there was a difference with the viscous coupling and the DCCD. OK now to swapping the 5mt with 5mt. Is the viscous coupling a part of the transmission? What other watchouts are there? I appreciate your help and explination. Sounds like you have been there done that?? Thanks Jamal. Mike

OK if I read and interpret this correctly, it sounds like I would need to keep the rear gear the same as what comes with the 6spd. Said another way, if the rear gear in my 99 is different than the gear behind the 6spd, than I need to change both transmission and rear gear. Keep the transmission and rear end together. Right? You lost me on the DCCD?? what is that? Sounds to me like more chasing down the right parts rather than fabrication work. I still like the idea of the 6spd! Thanks for you help. Mike

The swap would be just the transmission. It has 170k miles on it and getting a little long in the tooth. The engine has a little over 38k miles. No problem with the engine. Current clutch is same miles as engine, and hydraulic. Good question on the final rear gear ratio? Dont know what the WRX is and I could find out what mine is. Thanks to all for the answers. I just figure if I need to swap the 5spd, I would rather have the 6spd if it is possible. I love the car and dont plan to trade. I like to make little improvements as time and money allows. Does the transmission include the viscous coupling?

Whats the deal with getting the clutch to work?