JSIMONIS97

SOLVED. Dear mother mary and sweet lord baby jesus we got her to fire. It was the disty out 180⁰ The funny part is, the distributor cap is labeled with number denominations saying "1-2-3-4" and I wired them to the corresponding cylinders. The numbers labeled on the cap were off. I am attaching photos of what had me stumped for nearly 2 months. The yellow is the correct wiring. The red is the 180⁰ out.

It took me a while to even summon up the courage to be humbled/humiliated by everyone publicly when they hear I found the solution... Every day after working in a 110⁰ printing shop (where I am the owner and as any business owner is well aware, it is a STRESS FACTORY), I would come home to tend to my delicate steed, the 1984 subaru gl wagon 4wd. And hey, cut me some slack, Im only 23... lol. The diagnosis was, no power to the dash, and no fuel delivery. After swapping the stock hitachi carb for the weber dgv 32/36 and following the instructions to the best of my ability, I proceeded to replace the fuel pump as well. I lost dash power right after the terminal (unsure of color) popped off my IG switch and made contact with another terminal. I checked all the fuses (or so I thought). Another week went by and I trudged myself back over to my nightmare vehicle just to find a fuse HAD blown. Despite the frustration with myself, it was a HOORAY moment. Dash power is back. But still no fuel... I checked power the FPCU, I checked power to the Fuel Pump, I checked power to Neg lead of IG coil on crank, all good.. SO WTF. So after countless hours scrolling through forums, reaping the internet, flipping through my haynes manual endlessly (and slamming it shut a few times) it was my dad who found the solution. My dad hates working on cars. He has refused to give more than 15 minutes of input every time I ask for help. But he asked me.... if the fuel pump.... was pumping the right direction..... "OH MY GOD, ITS NOT" I thought. After 15 minutes out here on this fine Oregon morning and we have power and fuel delivery once more. I know the idle speed screw, timing, timing advance vac, and fuel mixture will all be the antagonists for today but we are 1 step closer to getting her back on the road. Thanks for reading and feel free to dig in, you wont hurt my feelings. haha.

i will take this all into consideration and start testing the above mentioned. Im only 23 and this is my first teardown and rebuild. Much to be learned

They've already been replaced... twice

checked all fusible links I know of. The ones under the dash. No change. Replaced the ignition switch as well. Nothing. ACC key position provides three little clicks from the starter relay then nothing...

Yes. I was running a hitachi carb and followed the hitachi -> weber conversion found on this forum.

Yeah I lost all dash lights.

It does not thus far. Ive sprayed starter fluid in it and tried gas. I have no priming of the fuel pump or any dash lights

Hey guys, I have an 84 GL Wagon 4WD here that has been giving me one hell of a run for my money. I pulled the motor last summer and everything went fine. I only replaced intake manifold gaskets, exhaust header gaskets, head gaskets, and oil pan gaskets, no internals. Got it back in and everything went fine and it sat all winter in my driveway. This summer, I got in it, it fired up, idling kind of rough and drove it about 300 yards down the road and back up. Everything was fine. Upon trying to start it days later I was getting spitting out of the carb. I went full bore and replaced the ignition switch, distributor cap, fuel pump, entire carbeurator to the weber dgv 32/36, tuned the carbeurator to the specifications, replaced the alternator and starter. I am getting power to the starter relays, the starter, the battery has 12v, and the ignition coil. I was getting power to the dash when I turned the switch to the ACC position and the fuel pump would prime. But I turned it off and back once more and all the dash lights shorted out. Now I only hear a click from the starter relay when I turn to the ACC position. The car still cranks over but I have no power to the fuel pump as the under hood fuel filter emptied. My thoughts are the ignition switch could've shorted somehow and gone bad... OR it may be a bad ECU I noticed that in the ACC key position the ECU has a red light that flashed every couple seconds. Any input would be greatly appreciated. The first 3 weeks were tolerable rolling around on the gravel and smashing my knuckles but this is just getting down right frustrating. Josh

Do you still have parts available? I am looking for a ignition lock cylinder. My key locked up and I am in need of a replacement. Please let me know if this is something you have available. Text me at 541-784-7970 or email at jsimonis97@gmail.com