Green96GT

Buy the Haynes manual at your local parts store. It has pics. It's really easy to remove the headlight - I've done it a dozen times at least.

On my 96 GT wagon, you refill right down the dipstick tube. You just need a funnel with a long hose at the end, and pour slowly. For the gear oil, in the front I think it's the same as the ATF - in through the filler tube. In the rear, two drain plugs. Take'm both out to drain, put the bottom one back in, then add oil to the top hole until it starts coming out. Some sort of pump or squeeze bottle would work for this.

Subiegal, I think I love you

Re: Seafoam tranny stuff. Does it work as well as the fuel system stuff? Also, is it safe for the front diff, as well as the tranny?

I put aftermarket tweeters where the factory ones go (the little triangle at the front corner of the fron side windows). The plastic triangle pops right out. You'd need to take the door panel off to do the wiring, though. I've seen the OEM tweeters on eBay a bunch of times, but why not get some good aftermarket component speakers (midrange for the door, a crossover, and a separate tweeter) to make the whole deal sound better?

Great, thanks! So, what exactly is it that goes wrong in the pack to cause the problem? From the pic it seems like a fairly simple piece of machinery. Also, is a junkyard replacement an option, or am I asking for trouble? If I had it in my hands looking at one, how would I tell if a used one is OK?

I know that the 'torque bind' problem has been beaten to death on the board. But I've got it, and understand it thanks to all you guys. My question is: What does the darn thing look like, and where is it on the car? I have this crazy idea that I might try to do the fix myself, and I need to know what I'd be getting into. Anybody got a pic?? Thanks all.

Carl: I got the driver's side mirror - it was just as described. Thanks!!!

What's a "boot lid"? :-p

I've replaced the power antenna on my wagon. It's not difficult, and the antenna is relatively cheap from the dealer (around $50, if I remember correctly). There are 'aftermarket' power antennas out there that are supposed to fit a subie, but I wouldn't trust them.

I don't want or need racing or high end pads. Are the dealer OEM pads good, and a good value? If not, which reasonably-priced, quality pads would you recommend for my 'daily driver'

Meguiar's.

Not sure how fast, but my airbag didn't deploy (thank goodness). He was going prolly 45 mph and 100 ft behind me when he hit the brakes and skidded, and knocked me pretty good. I was stopped. Thanks for the advice re: things to check!

Check my screen name - that should give you a hint!!! BTW, it's a wagon.

I was the middle guy in a 3 car pile-up today. I was stopped and the guy behind me nailed me pretty good and whacked me into the car in front. The bumpers are deformed (actually the front bumper looks pretty good!), but among other things I am getting some noise from under the car which sounds like an exhaust or downpipe leak. I'm guessing that the impact knocked something loose. The car also seems to be running differently in a way that's hard to pinpoint or describe, and I want to make sure all damage (not just the body) is fixed when I deal with the insurance co. In your experience, are there any non-body related, mechanical problems which could be caused by a collision, which I should look out for so I can get them fixed?

My 96 Legacy wagon emits a very strong odor of un-burnt gas when I start it cold. It seems to be getting worse over the last couple of years. Is this a fuel mixture problem? Also, I'm getting some 'pinging' when I accelerate (sounds like little glass beads shaken up in a jar). Could be I need to use higher octane fuel (Ugh!! $$$$). Or is it somehow related to the gas smell/fuel mixture issue? Thanks in advance - great site!!!!!

Can you post some pics? ; ^)

I replaced the unit with a used one I bought here. It's a simple bolt-on job that took me about 45 minutes, then another 1.5 hrs to bleed all the brake lines. Look for a used unit, and good luck!!

Is it a "2E" type? (four tubes in a line coming out of the top)

No "ABS" light, just a brake light every coupla weeks due to low fluid levels. It's pretty clear that there's a leak at one of the couplings. I tried to tighten the couplings, but they won't budge, and given that the housing appears to be aluminum I don't want to torque down on them too hard, anyway.

I'm losing brake fluid, and it appears that leaking fittings on my ABS pump are to blame. Anyone have a source for a salvaged ABS pump for my car? Thanks in advance. Green96GT