BlueSoob

Any idea on how the heater core is set up? I've flushed it twice and both in and out hoses are hot. Is there a dual layer that each runs each side of the car?

2006 OB manual control heater/air Heat is on, fan is blowing, air flow adjuster is adjusting. Drivers side blows hot air, passenger side is cold. All vents and half the defrost blow hot (drivers) and half blow cold (passenger). If I put it in cold, all vents blow cold. I've got the lower dashboard torn apart... What am I missing??

06 outback. Just did all the fun stuff.. t belt, head gaskets, radiator, thermo, hoses etc. Blew out the heater core, burped the coolant for an hour at angle... Why wouldn't I be getting any heat inside the car when I turn the dial to red??? Or for that matter... It doesn't get any cooler when I turn it to blue PS update. Someone help me.quick!!! My other half is disassembling the controls and knobs..

Tensioner has been replaced, timing belt was just done, the valves were bent when it went in. Those have been replaced now, The oil pump was freezing and throwing off the timing. Now that is replaced and the car starts up, it doesn't pop anymore but it still shakes (not as bad) and makes the rough putt putt sound.. I'll try and get a video later. Spark plugs and wires are new and triple checked... oh lawdy. and nope. no engine codes. The guy has been taking it to Jiffy Lube to get oil changes. So when it actually broke, he brought it to a friend of mine, who has done the timing belt, plugs, valves... etc. even cleaned everything he could think of after finding chunks of oil and cardboard or something lodged near the pump. (Kids, remember to change your oil on time and use quality stuff!!!) It's not jumping timing anymore (no more click, shake shake shake) HELP!!! any sensors that could be doing this?????? I swear any actual mechanical workings of this have been thought of... (I really just want to help him get this out of his garage because it's taking up the space where I can pull my car in to fiddle with.... UGH! LOL)

It almost sounds like a fan crack pop when it does it.

HELP. I have an 04 Forester XT that is blocking my driveway. It's not my Forester but it needs to move. I start up the car, it starts up okay and sounds good for about 3-4 seconds. Then there is a click/ pop sound and then the engine starts shaking something knarly. I stop the car, fix the timing, try it again, and wham bam same thing. It's off again. With that 3-4 second delay, it wouldn't be any thing to do with oil/hydraulic pressure on something would it? Played with the tensioner, nothing seems to be stuck or held up. Help. I want this thing gone.

Could someone run a VIN for me?

Also, where could i find a how-to or a diagram of the order that things go on or off..

So I have no idea where this thread started but I think I'm experiencing a similar thing on my 2008 wipers, both, in unison, can't seem to decide if they want to stop 2 inches up, all the way down, over the warmer... or if they want to wipe two inches from the pillar or want to jump off.... So maybe the "transmission"?? Was it easy to put in?? I guess on an 08 it would be different but not completely? Would you rather find one aftermarket or junkyard?

I got it. One piece! Didnt even break more than two clips! LOL Damn I'm good

gbhrps: do I apply most of the pressure with the string to the urethane or try and keep the string straight or try and keep pressure towards the car? I'm hoping for the best but expecting the worst. The window is tinted on the inside and 'custom' on the outside. Hence why I am trying to save it

HELP I need to remove the 'custom' glass from the rear of my wagon. Wagon got totaled. Would like to save glass. I tried around town to borrow glass removal tools and all I came up with was a cutting wire from a glass company. I have a 97 OB. What trim do I need to remove to access the sealant? Where are the trim pieces attached? What other tools besides maybe a razor blade, needle nose pliers, cutting wire, would I need? Is there a good method to this??

Aaaaannnnnddddd there is this one

Oh look I see me... LOL Wow. It's been a long time since i posted on here.. "Old Schooler" weird... I've only been registered on this board since what? 98? 99? I think I know most of the people who are posting in this thread too... Why? because some of you are still in my cell phone contact as your board names.. HAHA

No stumble, no hesitation when it comes on.. The light will flash at me 3-10 times. I reset the light and it won't come on until the same conditions happen. No idea how old the O2 are.... it has 308,000 on it. I have all the repair records since almost new.... I know a lot... a lot of work was done between 140-160k (I bought it at 200k) https://www.facebook.com/35305adventure

NGK plugs and wires now, I've not been able to get the light to come on in lower gears at same RPM. I tried to get it to come on when on level freeway... tried four times... wouldn't come on... until I was heading up and over a pass.

1997 Outback 2.5 5mt Misfire code - I've changed plugs and plug wires... wires twice. Ignition coil.. Never hesitates when starting, never stumbles.. But finally I've noticed a pattern... at about 78-84 mph, at about 3500-4000 rpm, driving even just slightly uphill, the check engine light comes on.... I'm stumped. Help.

yep in park. even tried it in neutral... the key won't turn back to the off position

whoo hoo... I'm fairly new to Denver too. I have a 97 Outback.. Stock. Went up to TinCup last August. Yes. I even took some of the lesser knarly trails in a stock outback.... I don't care. I had fun and found a fantastic camp spot... :-) I'm working at a dealership in Littleton for now.. If only it was the Subaru one....

93 legacy automatic.. been sitting dead for awhile. went to jump start it.. now the key won't come out of the ignition... i know there is a trick to this.... but I can't remember what..... amanda

So now I made it to Wyoming and I can describe things better... He checked everything that people have mentioned... everything is connected.. everything is intact (no cracks) The car starts up, seems like its going to run fine.. He's not keeping a foot on the gas - nothing.. 10 seconds later.. it dies. Starts up, runs just fine... can count to about 10 and it dies again. Still, no CEL, no leaks. Like I mentioned earlier - fuel pump/lines replaced 8 months ago Wasn't having these issues before he tore into it to have the clutch worked on.. He got a coil for it... but we're both guessing that's not it. Next thing he thought of would be a new MAF (he hasn't tried cleaning the MAF -(with what could he clean it with?))- 240$ non returnable if that's not it... help! I'm willing to give a prize to the person with the right answer

he didn't replace the cam seal - couldn't get the O ring so he put a little bit of RTV on back of the engine block (drivers side) ??? dunno if this would make a difference.... You can rev it and it will run - its getting fuel ok. Its just when you try to get it to do much else.. He wondered if it could have been a vacuum hose that he over looked... he swears up and down that he checked all the air lines - but he'll check again.. BTW -He says thanks guys for the ideas.

yah its running for just a few seconds and then dying. sounds like its getting fuel but not not keeping it sparked.. thanks for your hints... keep em coming

I know how vague my description will be and how vast the answers will be... My 97 Outback died at my family's home in Wyoming last month.- couldn't get it to shift (5mt) into gear. Finally, my diesel mechanic brother wanted to fix my car for me for Christmas and tore into it. He had stuff for a clutch job and a rear main seal ready to go. When he got it up on the lift and dropped some stuff, he discovered that the shift fork had cracked and wasn't allowing me to shift into gears (while the clutch was fine) and that the car wasn't leaking oil from the rear main, just from some cam connector - sooooo here's where I need help I told him to not fix it if it wasn't broke - he puts everything back together - car starts up, runs, shifts fine but then dies. He has checked everything to make sure all the hoses and such went back together. I just had the fuel pump and lines replaced 5 months ago. The check engine light is not coming on. I feel bad because he wanted to do something nice for me- i trust him 100x over with my car. He just doesnt usually tear into Subarus (but maybe if I had a diesel.) Does anyone have ANY ideas about what to check for or has had any experience with this happening to them?? Please. I'm traveling to home for Christmas and he would just like to have this out of his way. (or if there are any Subaru elves out there that I could bribe to help him next weekend - maybe out of Rock Springs/ Evanston WY or Salt Lake/Ogden UT - that could use a little last minute Christmas cash... It would mean a lot. But regardless of bribery, Hints or ideas would help -amanda

Dude I don't know where you are living or what - but last October when my Outback was broken into, my home owners insurance covered the contents of my car. The total claim was just under 2500$ (I had some work electronics that were stolen) I'm not sure if it changes things that your whole car was stolen. Just wanted to let ya know who to check with and to start making a detail list of everything that was in the car. (Though just a warning-they won't cover it if it was -attached- to the car ie radios, wired in things, racks, modification things - sooo tool boxes.. may not want to be attached if...)