Rafavidmess

Found a number… 052286 in a sticker on my gearbox. ¿Do you know where to look for the right rear diff?

Hello to All, I am feeling a bit ashamed of not entering the forum for so long. short update: - Iended up changing my gearbox due to the problems of the previous one. Also a dual range that is supposed to come from a Loyale (same housings at least). - Also bought a rear disk brake kit form a Loyale turbo… not installed yet. Everything else working fine. Today I installed the rear pro shaft and found out that rear diff ratio does not match with gearbox ratio. My diff is a 3.700. now searching for the codes of my new gearbox to know the matching diff…

Hello to all, Kept on going with my project, I think I might be on the Final Straight.... I Installed a Pitch stop Rod and the gearing Issues are now gone. Now I have to get the car ready for our "Revision tecnica" (tech inspection for road worthiness), thus I need to have the backup light working. Does anyone know what cable (or cables) of my 5Spd dual 4wd gearbox (taken from a Loyale) are the ones from the Reverse sensor?...and where should I connect them? Also, the lambda sond of my engine (1990 MPFI EJ 22...with a 200? EJ 20 Block) had all the cables cut. I bought a Standard 3 cable Bosch sond. Do you know how it should be connected? I have a Chilton manual, but I couldn´t find this infor there. Saludos! Rafa

Hi Bennie I Don´t have the Pitch stopper Rod Installed... than may be the Issue. Today I will work on It I know Gearbox Mounts Are OK Thanks a lot for the advice! Saludos! Rafa

Last Update, Reading other posts on the forum I decided to start by the basics: Do an oil change and a Gearbox Flux.... Just remembered that the Gearbox was with the oil it came with, and as I found out in my forum investigation, clean oil in the dipstick doesn´t mean clean oil in the gearbox. Long story short: The dropped oil was filthy, and the drain plug had some kind of mud on it, though no big chunks. Refilled with 10W 40 Diesel Sinthetic motor Oil (Lots at hand due my machinery business) and went driving. At the beginning it was the same, but after 5-10 minutes driving the gears stopped popping out and I could even downshift for motor braking without gears disenganging...and it kept getting better and better... Think I will leave this oil for a short period (200-300 km) and drain as hot as possible to clean everything up. Hope it´s enough. Still I have to be carefull with downshifting for motor braking, but if done smoothly gears will engage perfectly. Saludos! Rafa

Hello to All, Some updates: - For now I am working with the EJ sender into my EA Dash, Works fine when you know that halfway is maximum. I will leave the accurate measurement in the "nice to have" list. Now I am having a bit more urgent issue. When Testing hard my new engine (New block + 1 new head) the gearbox starts doing weird things. When I accelerate I have no trouble at all, but if (After hard acceleration) I loose the pedal, the gearbox will jump out of gear, it happens in almost every Gear (haven´t tried in 4th and 5th, due to the speeds involved). It doesn´t jump completely out (and makes the sema sounds as when you miss a shift), and if I accelerate immediately after, the gear will get back in. All shifts enter smoothly and in normal condictions it also runos noiseless and smooth. The gearbox is a dual range 5spd that came from a Loyale. Could it be a shifter linkage Issue? As always, thanks in advance for your wisdom. Saludos! Rafa

Thanks @Numbchux and @el_freddo!! Great ideas. I think I have 2 sensor in the water Crossover pipe...I was just wondering what were they for. This afternoon will look for the easyer way with the stufff I have at my shop. Saludos! Rafa

Also changed the topic name... The Original didn´t say much about my project

Last Update I found a EJ 20 Short Block that seems in good condition for a very low price. Hope this week I can do the swap. BTW...does anyone knows which is the cable that sends the engine temperature signal? Should it come from the ECU or it is just a direct Connection? Saludos! Rafa

Thanks Benny! Yes...my phase 1 Heads are also corroded on the firing ring . Will keep on looking...seen some on FB in Chile.

Hi Bennie! The “acid” condition was just a joke. I don’t know the whole history of this car. What I know is that it was almost trash when I bought it. I changed head gaskets, timing kit and water pump. That’s when I noticed the deep corrosion. One of the cylinders was so corroded that only 2-3 mm of seating space for the head gasket were left at the combustion chamber. Some details of the available block: - It’s an EJ 20 with about 120.000 km on it, from a 2001 Legacy third gen. - if I buy it, I will go for timing, head gaskets and water pump. - I can see heads are different ( still an sohc, but a little wider), thus I don’t know if my intake/ exhaust manifolds will fit this block. saludos! Rafa

Hi to All, Long time since my last post. Well, my Brat is electrically (almost) solved, but a new issue arised... It was supposed to happen, but not that early. Long story Short... for the EJ 22 on Brat retrofitting I bought a 1990 Legacy. Very cheap, but in very bad condiction. With the wiring and the engine peripherials it was enough for the money. The engine runned smooth, but it was corroded as they used acid instead of coolant. Made a fast fix, just to get it running. The engine did it´s job, but after short water is getting into the oil again = dead. There is a totaled 3rd gen Legacy near me, the Long block is available... Will my peripherics from G1 EJ 22 fit into this block? Best regards!

Thank You @Numbchux!! Saludos! Rafa

Great!! Thanks Bennie

Hi to All, As I have posted in the "Old Gen" Forum, I started from repairing to doing some major Mods to My 1990 MV. Including a 5Sp 4wd DR trans and an EJ 22 Engine swap. For the trans Swap I bought what I supposed should be a "complete kit", this is a GL 5Sp 4wd DR + Rear diff.... I was quite shure that my original 4Sp 4wd DR and the new would have different gearing. BUT when I was attempting to do the rear diff swap I noticedBoth are 3.700 Is this OK...or did I got a non matching Transmission-Differential package. Best regards!

Just got to understand this in one of your previous posts: Have you added any relays to operate power to any of the EJ wiring? You might need to have these set up as a negative/earth switched arrangement. I was switching it with positive.... Of course It will not work. As you also wrote...Subaru switches almos all from negative. Thanks again Saludos! Rafa

What a Nice Build!! Hope to see it Racing Soon. Saludos! Rafa

Hi Bennie, Today I got the engine Running! A bit rough on Idle, but I hope That may be related to a poorly installed MAF and no exhaust pipe (and Oxygen sensor) yet. Couldn’t run it longer than 20-30 secs because I still haven’t installed the radiator. It didn’t start because of the Start cable on the ECU, connected it to “Hot in Start” and fired immediately. That gave me a burst of energy. EFI pump still doesn’t stop when I get the key to Off. I found there’s something funny with the Original wiring, but everything seems brighter now. Thanks for the support. saludos! Rafa

Thank You Bennie! Will Check everything this afternoon (after work), specially the Diodes. I saw them when trimming the loom, quite shure I kept at least one... Right now I have Only 2 Relays: Main Power Relay (Kept from the EJ Loom)... I am operating from Positive, with the ON switch. Fuel Pump Relay: Now I see I haven´t Installed electrically Parallel. I just Connected it to the same Circuit as the Original Fuel Pump (My Brat is Carburated). And I hear the Original Pump starts for a while before cranking. But I am not Sure if it keeps on working...and since all the signals from the engine in the EA Loom are missing I guess It will not run If the Enine Starts...Have to check that Also. Thanks Again! Saludos! Rafa

Hi to All, I am in the middle of an engine swap from a 1990 2.2 MPFI Auto Legacy as Donor to My 1990 Brat (Carburated). I am having Issues with the ON Switched Cables... When I Turn the key to ON, everything that Should is Energized, but when I turn it Off, Voltage goes to About 6V (Not 0), meaning the ECU stays Energized and my EFI Pump (Installed electrically Parallel to the Orginal Fuel Pump, with It´s own relay) Keeps on Running. By the way, I connected It this way because I couldn´t get the ECU to Control the Negative of the Pump Relay. I have Spark, So I think It should Run....but haven´t done a "Wet" Run Yet. Any Advices? Thanks in Advance Saludos! Rafa

Hello to all, Tonight I layed the trimmed wiring in my brat. Have done the connections of Grounds and "powers". The ignition relay is actuated by a switched positive, a Light green Cable. As adviced, I connected it to a Switched + (ON from the ignitio switch). I noticed that this cable on the other side enters the ECU on the F47 (5) pin. It´s marked as self Shut of Control and should have Voltage when in On. ¿Should I also power this pin on the ECU? Thank in advance!!! Saludos! Rafa

Hi This is Me, a couple of years ago (2018), finishing the last Special stage of the 2018 ISDE, held in Chile. That day was Miserably hot. The relief is Cristal clear.

Just in case... Here I found a complete workshop service Manual for the 1992 Liberty: https://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/1992_Liberty_FSM_-_FULL/ Best Regards!

Thank you Bennie! I started working selecting the plugs I am sure I will not use and trace the wires (once at a time) until thy split or get into a plug. I followed the advice of @Numbchux write up. Nevertheless I managed to get lost and not knowing the use of some of the plugs…so I will apply your method. Chiltons wiring diagrams cover just engine control. I am having some trouble finding the necessary plugs and wires with the signals that I need (Check engine, tachometer, etc). Also I suppose I need to keep a Lluc for the diagnostic tool. Any complete wiring diagram for a 1990 2.2 Legacy wold be hugely thanked. saludos! Rafa

Hi Again! Now working in the wiring of the EJ Engine that´s "Mechanically" Installed in my MV. Chilton´s Wiring diagrams and (Specially) @Numbchux writeup have been very Helpfull. Still some questions Arise: - I got a second box, about the Size of the ECU with an ED Sign on it. Is this related to The Auto Trany.. or maybe the adjustable suspension? Can I remove all this wiring? - Is there anything special I have to be avare of, given my donor is automatic and I am not using that gearbox? - Does anyone has a picture of an already Trimmed Wiring, just to know how it should look like? Thanks in advance Saludos!