Indrid cold

Here's what I did. I cancelled my purchase of the aftermarket hitch and went with the Subie factory hitch and had them install. The cost was about $300 more. (I don't have time to do the install) . Why? Mainly is once you "Bolt on a hitch" rather then use the factory kit that slides inside the frame you eliminate a safety factor of the vehicle as the now solid aftermarket kit prevents the rear end from crinkling/accordioning (?) as it's designed to do should the car be hit from the rear. So why defeat a designed safety factor for a measly $300. I dropped it off, 3-4 hours later they call and it was an excellent looking install. Very nice addition to my 2017 Outback.

After watching the subaru video on their hitch for 2017 outback, I better understand the higher cost associated with the subaru unit. Not knowing this I have already paid a local hitch company to install next week. Very reputal business. But the Subie hitch and cost is substantial vs the after market unit which probably bolts up under the frame and not in the frame as the Subie unit does. I won't be towing much nor often ie., camping gear. Is this an issue? Your thoughts.

Hey d8usti5n, I did my swap about 7-8 years ago and had a near same experience from the local drive-line shop here on the east side of the state. They didn't want to touch it. I explained to them that on the power end was a 90 hp. engine and reminded them that I am sure they make drive lines for rock-crawlers, off road rigs and high performance cars (700 hp for a road car and their freaking on what you want?) and that they hold no liability for the requested modification and yes, I had to have new universals put in, all balanced and they charged me $400 or $500. or something like that. They did a great job and runs out smooth at 70 mph. The 5-spd conversion is a great up grade for older subies when done right. I took mine to 6-States in Pasco, WA. They are not the only drive line shop in the area. Next one you go to explain what your doing, why your doing it and that the modification has proven itself as being well within design criteria of materials involved. I do have to agree with them on new universal joints etc... the old ones are 30 years old and pain in the butt for them to mess with so starting with "new" is just easier on them. People are freaky over the liability thing but possibly find an off-road shop etc.. they will laugh at your little drive line but if they want your money, they will do it. good luck.

Wow, sounds like a great start on a long term relationship. You lined yourself with a good group and talking to Jerry is a great contact for your 5-speed adapting needs. There are a ton of posts and articles on the stuff your doing, taking time to read, ask when you have too and having a mistake or two comes with the learning curve. On the drive line I took mine to a local drive-line shop for an up-date. They said they wouldn't touch it unless all new universals etc.. and they were concerned with the added length so I had to explain that at the power end sits a 90 hp. motor so they backed off on their concern of "modifying out of factory specs"... or what ever their issue was.... anyway, it cost but I guess it was worth it. The rest on mine was from robbing from my other vehicles etc.. and catching things on the internet. good luck.

No sealant required or used that I have ever heard. Vast majority praise "Fel-pro" head gaskets as being the best and that's what I have used with no needed sealant. Also, no follow up torque required as written in some manuals when using the Fel-pro brand as stated by others who have been doing this for years.

14mm on control arm, yes..can't remember what it is called? But that was just more about what I learned on these cars when working on the suspension more so then on your "clunk" noise. So I would still be looking for something coming loose... or wore out. Mr. Loyal is right about the dog-bone on the EA-82 years, but I can't remember what the EA-81's have except for motor or tranny mounts ... Control arm bushings, do a search on topic. Best if done by a hydraulic press. I did one on my work bench and took other to a buddy who had a press. So much easier using a hydraulic press to push out the old and push in the new one. Keep looking for that "clunk" noise. Good luck.

I'm not a mechanic so only trying to help.... so just tossing darts here... It sounds like loose, missing, (bolts, mount, support) allowing weight to move during acceleration... Take a look at your engine mounts. Possibly pinch bar and lift up a bit to see if all looks good. Look for loose tranny mounts to as well as missing exhaust pipe bolts on bottom of engine. any of these can allow weight to shift, possibly causing a "clunk" when accelerating. Also check the two large bolts that hold disc breaks to the rotor assembly. Could sloppy bushings cause the clunk? possibly? I would ease concerns of a pending major failure by looking at main components/bolts before settling on a couple of old bushings, not discounting, just prioritizing. I changed all my suspension bushings about 10 years ago, figure it couldn't hurt.... I am sure there are some older posts on that to search. sounds like you have checked major parts.. You probably know, take pressure (lift) off the tire and feel for play by grabbing the tire (yes tire is still on) and feel for play (not rotation but for ball joint or knuckle slop). I am sure there is a youtube video on this. It sounds like your fairly confident in all of this but it sounds like something has come loose, or about too... hate it when that happens. One point someone reminded me of is that bottom 14mm bolt on bottom of suspension arm (if loosened or removed) the nut should remain loose, till weight is back on the suspension (tires on ground), then tightened/torque the bolt, not when suspension is hanging down like when jacked in the air. The rubber in that bushing sleeve where the 14mm bolt slides through can degrade/tear...... not sure if any of this helps. Good luck.

Excellent. Can't wait! My 84 Brat is a daily driver, 32 freaking years old, how amazing is that! My icon picture of my daughter, she was about 8 years old, she is now a Freshmen in College.

I would shoot some silicone spray in the switch, possibly cut a new key. Look at Rock Auto .com for replacement. I bought mine there. I think. Been years.

Nothing jumps out to me of what could be the issue, but like thou say, a wiring issue. If the issue wasn't there before, then it's something you caused. The coil wires get easily reversed when coils are removed, causes problems. I tagged mine. I don't know how you can't get power once you turn your key? There are relays, but everything should power up or pop fuses if crossed... hmmm... Running a jumper has just created a different path/avenue for power to flow so it will cause different then normal events. If it was working correctly before, it's out of its correct configuration. Step back, sleep on it, check again. I love my 84 roo, never had an issue like this. sorry I am no real help.

I swear on some of those bulbs I was able to reach up behind and with my finger tips, rotate, pull out little holder, put in new bulb and put back in. I think the spedometer cable had to be removed, but I could get to a couple of the sockets. I eventually had to pull the instrument cluster and changed them then. it helps if you have a spare instrument cluster so you can see where the sockets are located and how to wiggle fingers to that point.

Nice find. Very nice.

So have you figured out the issue? Kind of leaving this issue hanging. I have never heard of an issue like this. You turn the key it should pressure the system up, fill everything, charge it up, so this is odd. Sorry, which I could help.

You asked how likely to leave you stranded? Our work 2013 Chevy van pool left us along the road 3 times. Cellphone, extra water, umm a few tools, tow strap and your set. Stuff like you described doesn't bother me anymore because it happens, mostly rarely, but if it does it means your out doing something and not watching your gold fish blow bubbles as it swims in circles. Start slowly and go from there, but enjoy the ride while it lasts!

Sounds like they have covered most everything. You have to get over the idea that you can't work on these cars. It is very doable, very learnable but it takes time. One thing I have always voiced is anything new you are in the learning curve, which means it will probably cost you more, take longer and seems difficult at first, but as things break, it is nothing more then an opportunity to learn. You learn how to diagnose, fix and when everything is running well, you get to enjoy the ride. The worst thing I have seen is when a new owner tries to modify or work on and have little or no experience and they have to take them to a shop, they push themselves to far, to fast. If something happens, one should be able to say, I should work on that this weekend, if its warm out and the wind isn't blowing, and I feel like it. When there is no pressure you can read, take time to look it over, not make a mistake at 1 am trying to get it back on the road and next morning a bolt flies off from somewhere under the car and you go... what did I forget to tighten? I have been there and done that! So it sounds like you have the opportunity to do it more as a hobby and have a love for the Brat. I love getting the stares from people as I drive by with the little sun-roof winglets opened. Good times. One last thought. You can find a well loved wagon for a fraction of the price to learn on. Probably not what you have in mind but I have seen others buy a wagon, whack off the roof behind the A-pillars and open up the back to the sky. It's radical, it's over the edge and more importantly it's CHEAP! The more you pay for no dents, gone through cars it costs you more. Try not to think that these have to be nice cars to be runners. Some of the ugliest older beat up roos were the funest and dependable cars. Mainly because the owners knew every inch on their roo and how to fix it. So why buy pretty and shinny when you can pick up a rougher looking car for CHEAP. I like CHEAP. gives me more money to buy tools and parts to fix. an idea of cheap is less then $500, more like $150 (NO automatic transmissions please or Turbo'd motors) my last 84 hatchback cost me $100 and drove it for 5 years. My 88 wagon, $160. drove it for 3 years, etc.. etc... of course I had to bond with them at first, show them some love, parts, and stuff, but they gave me years of service after. Excellent. I love my Brat, Brats are fun and if your heart is set on it, keep looking and good luck. Good luck, sorry so wordy.