Indrid cold

a bad distributor module can create this same type of engine failure.. run, not run etc... as with a coil, bad battery, alternator etc... let us know what you find..... my .o2 cents..

I use those green Scotch Brite Pads and gently go over the surfaces to dress it up and vacuum the area well to remove any remaining fiber/abrasives. On a later post it said it wasn't a good idea to use these as it leaves abrasives behind ... so not sure what the mechanics do... I figure clean up the surface, remove residue and there you go... seemed to work for me. my .o2 cents.. UPDATE: SEE "HONDA SUCKS" POST ABOVE! WHERE WERE YOU WHEN I WAS DOING MY HEADS? I am going to get me a set of those.

Country? State?

The goop (form-a-gasket looking stuff) you see is normal, it is used on the Cam-tower side to prevent oil leakage as there is no gasket between the cam-tower and head, "High temp silicone" usually black is used, this is on the oil side of the head, not the compression side.. the compression side has a head gasket in it. I wouldn't touch the head gaskets unless you know for sure... they arn't that hard to do... there is a "O" ring between the cam-tower (thing that holds the camshaft assembly) to the head ... you must have a replacement "o" ring if you remove the cam-tower from the head as when you replace a head gasket. But basic untourque and retourque process on head, .. clean surfaces and put new gasket on, torque head down, goop outside surface with "High temp silicone" and with new "o" ring on cam-tower oil passage bolt to head which causes the form a gasket looking stuff to goosh out, (this is the goop that you see at the joint), valve cover and done. Rocker arms or sum such will fall out as the Cam-tower is removed.. read up on those on how to put them back on during assembly... Usuall oil leaks are from front two "0" rings on front side of camshafts, yes you have to remove timing belts and set timing marks.. it is a head scratcher the first time but after you figure it out it isn't too bad. The front crank shaft seal also should be replaced.... but my gut feeling is no you don't have head gasket problems, sounds like all you got are leaking "o" rings (very typical) and needs a good tune-up. When puting the belts back on you must set the tension on the belts.. a simple cheesey home tool can be built to do that or just kind of guess... I guessed and been working great. lots of info on the search list... Plan on the seals taking longer then you think... and the same with the head gaskets.. for the first time, after that you get faster and realize it isn't that diffecult... just can be a saturday burner. Oh... since I am rambling on here.. my 88 EA-82 Wagon had a bad oil leak on the bottom of the head so I had to change the head gasket... this was after I did the front seals etc.. put it back together and realized that the head was leaking also.. so the 2nd time of taking everything apart went alot faster so it wasn't so much the front seals but the lower part of the head gasket had failed. my .02 cents

Great video & flower pics.. ... great memories with the family... Loved the frog... Excellent...

I think I would have ended your story with one of these..: I think we have all been there and best just to say: "I understand." (If you have ever seen the episode on "2 and a half men" when Charlie Harper, played by Charlie Sheen walks around and says, "I understand." then you would see some humor in the post...) It seems to come in groups when things break... I call it, "bonding time" with my 84 Brat but it comes with driving an older rig. I like how quickly many repairs and services can be done on these rigs but I think that can breed a dangerous mind-set or expectation and I have found what works for me as I have tried to become more attentive in my repairs by double checking my work, assuring proper torque, using a realistic time line of pending work and avoiding mid-night repairs by candle light, rush repairs or the "One more bolt, rush, rush mentality" etc.. as that is when I seem to make most of my mistakes and those mistakes are the ones that come back too haunt me. Once in awhile I will do a quick job but I just try to be more thorough and try to avoid shade tree mechanic mistakes.

possibly wires reversed between neg & pos on coil, ... Yellow to the Positive?... Also, check your Chiltons or (?) for values and do a resistance check on the coil... wired back to coil from ditsy correct? Just throwing things out there???

Did someone recently do a tune up and didn't disconnect the test connectors unde the hood after setting the timing? Possibly it is time for a tune up, plugs, wires, rotor, cap etc.. How about running a can of seafoam through the fuel and oil... just throwing darts here...

Excellent... And the installation instruction were a bonus too! It's rad time... Update: Went out this morning and remember I had an old Radiator that I got from my Nephew 4 years ago or so.... looked good? "Dude said it was good" kind of thing and at the right price.. free ... so.. installed it... so far so good. +1 for spare parts piled along side of the house... neighbors hate it but parts is parts.

Thought I read where you can put a radiator from an ea-82 Wagon (lets say 1988 DL) into a EA-81? Parts house has one on the shelf (88) and a bit cheaper then the one spec'd out for the 84 Brat which would have to be ordered. My son's is leaking and I am off tomorrow so I guess "we"... meaning "I" get to change it... Out side of plugging a few ports will it fit? Yes, I did a search but couldn't find a yes or no on this, I just finished a double shift and to tired to dig any more.

I think everyone has a good mix here..... Probably hill climb and altitude mix kind of thing in 5th gear... my 88 would easily stumble on long hills... if he is still able to climb in 4th and have a good run down the other side in 5th... all's well.... possible timing etc.. but sounds like he's running again and he is just a little paniky realizing it is a big world out there.... I strongly agree with Monstaru... let him run, learn to bond with the car and the experience.. these minor excitements in life will build him up even if the car goes up in flames :Flame:and cost's you a bit. All's good. He will always remember his first road trip... Yes there are Subie members all over the northwest... If the car finaly dies... then that is a good place to start asking the board for a local. Now take a breath and smile at his strike for independance! My thought is I would rather see a young man be adventurous then sit in front of a stupid computer playing games.... he's out, he's doing ... *yes, even if it cost you a rescue..

Nice find... hope it works out for you (free).... Keep us posted.

...................................... That's what I love about these cars... kids with time/sweat and a bit of money can make cheap running transportation! I bump into the first owners of my Brat once in awhile and they still can't believe it is still running! Just smile and wave boys... just smile and wave.... "The Beast" is so you Bill......

Excellent pics... your getting us who havn't, hungry to do the swap...

Welcome too the board: Great selection for new drivers as I had recently gifted my 88 wagon too a newish driver as they are bigish for small cars, low power on starts, can take most abuse dished out by kids and great car to learn how to tinker on.. as it will need some love and attention down the road. The only real down side is no air-bags... but this is when I say don't do anything stupid and watch out for the idiot drivers! anywho... welcome to the board!

July or Aug, that gives me about 8 months to get something ready... like last year... I have lots of time..

Try the Prosser WA, area wrecking yard... heard they may have a few... Spokane also... alot of the wrecking yards are crushing since metal prices are high.. great condition cars crushed & not hung on too like they used too. $140 has kind of been the running price around here... but it depends on where you go too. $500 is high, keep digging. I understand they are trying to pay the bills.. but come on...

A local 4 wheeler put his rig into a revene above town, the hill side was recently purchased by, "Save the Sagebrush critters" or something like that and would not allow any other equipment in to remove his rig... last I heard it was piece by piece baby... piece by piece... zzz So, legally what are your options?... walk and let her rust? Are the Suby police going to track you down? This is now like herding cats that are out of the bag... good luck.

First, congrats on you and your wagon, I have a soft spot for 88 wagons, mine was a great rig but it was just sitting and needed a loving home so I passed it on. I mean... 5 running cars.. one had to go. (went free to a local 16 yr old who's treating her kindly as he learns to keep her purring) Hope this isn't too far off base but: Possibly consider your 88 as a daily driver and keep diging till you find another cheap rig more in line with what you want to do and mod that one as it sits along side the house. Once you have cheap transportation to and from work, then pump up something that your not depending on and it will take alot of time pressure off you.... this may delay some of your mods as you look for another rig and save some cash but you will have a way to and from work and the other car can happen as funds happen. You should be able to find a cheap non runner as a starter project, it's just a thought. my .02cents worth. Oh... any ideas?... I put a roof rack on my 88, for the spare tire and gear, I did install my overhead lights to far forward and it flooded the window with light.. (hard to see out) so possibly needed light shroud or move them back or better, front brush guard mounted lights. also, "The beast I drive", shot his wagon with a shotgun.... it added that special touch to his left front...

My brakes are icing up after driving in deep snow limiting my braking ability... not sure if all cars do this or unique to Subies... course I never drove cars nor took them to places like I do these! Also, after it sits it freezes solid so I have to take it out of 4x4 and pop the clutch to get them to brake loose...... figure it's just what these cars do?

Weeeenieee... you put your doors back on!!!.. Looks good and sounded like it was running well... I took my Hatch to the hills today (forgot camera)... my tow strap was in my son's Brat so I kept it on the road but nice to see all the snow..

Sorry, couldn't find my Napa receipt... it is like the, "Water pump/by-pass heater hose" sucks to get too... have fun. Usually runs a bit long, (generic fit) cut to fit kind of thing. Meassure twice... cut once.

Try the sea-foam, some right in the oil and carb, run it till it stops knocking... shouldn't take long. I think the can says to run for a day/couple day's in engine oil then change oil. If that doesn't do it I would pull the cover and take a look to see if something has come undone. They are bullet proof engines. Anything 280,000+ is getting old.

Take a rag with a light dash of degreaser and clean the grease off the side of the valve cover. Look for a sticker that says, "Valves need no adjustment" or something to that effect. They put the stickers on the newer engine which I thought came out in 85?..... but not sure.... as for the knocking it does sound like Hydraulic lifter kind of thing. If you suspect Hydraulic lifters making noise, use some Sea-Foam through the engine to help un-stick the lifter if that is what you have. If it still knocks I would remove valve cover and take a peek and check for any sign's as to why it is knocking.. This is a simple thing to do before something really brakes. Call local parts place for gasket. If cork, cover in Grey High Temp RTV, let dry and install. .02 cents

Put a strap around each side of the motor under the heads, put a buddy on each side of the car, slide a pipe or wooden pole through the straps, lift while you wiggle and pull motor forward and lift motor out. Hint: assure radiator is out & lift tranny up an inch with jack.