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Indrid cold

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Everything posted by Indrid cold

  1. Hey Gloyal, Appreciate the info. I sprayed silicone spray into the plug area, got long nose pliers and able to slide in, grab and pull. I did find something curious, Silicone adhesive around the rubber insulator left in there. So, possibly that is what is to be used or kid who last worked on it didn't realize the difference between Silicone adhesive and Silicone spark grease. I don't have a Haynes manual so flying blind. Sorry for questions but just trying to help the kid out. Of course a pretty girl shows up so he is long gone and I am doing this by myself, but hey, hormones happen. And I do understand what you are saying about about the glued in liner in socket, not sure what plug size for 2.5 DOHC plugs, will see what I have, but if I lose the liner it can't be as tough to get out as these stupid little inserts. I do like the hanger option. Thanks all. Back outside. Any other info is greatly appreciated. One step at a time here.
  2. Well, isn't that special. The boot, (for lack of better term) has plastic shank with plug clip on end (up inside) Looking in with mirror, It's as if an insulator was part of the plastic part but was left behind when I pulled it out. The plug boot assembly came out whole, but left insulator or something behind so I can't slip socket over. So, back to pulling and tugging? Well, back out side. oh, thanks for the reply.
  3. Job is done. Thanks for the help. Finally wiggled the plug wire off, 97 Leagacy, 2.5 Now I try to put a plug socket in there and it wont go in over plug, it appears to have a rubber insulator over the plug.... (who designs this stuff?) How do I get that insulator out of the way and what socket fits those plugs. I tried the pull thing with long nose pliers, dental pick etc.. or socket goes over all that? No idea... Thanks again. .
  4. Thanks Imdew I used the Sears, Robo grip pliers, has more of a 90 deg angle on the jaws, got behind the Tee Handle and used leverage to get them loose. Came out just like you said they would. Thanks again.
  5. hey guys/gals, Sorry for such a simple question, but? Getting plug wires off 97, 2.5 What am I missing here? Nephew stopped by with his 97 Legacy, 2.5 He is having issues so figure start with compression test. I do the EA's, so these new, Ej's, moving cautiously forward. Removing plug wires, Holy heck.. what kind are these? They are not your typical boot, they cover the hole, which is great, but I have tugged, pulled and about to destroy them and they haven't budged. I figure they weren't greased going on how many years ago so cooked on... I figure they just pull off but since no room, I can't get the force to pull them off. Is there like a special tool, or turn 90 deg. and then pull or ? Special, Subie, master Ninja trick? Don't want to break the kids car, so figure get a little input. Oh, and who would put plugs so close to the frame... honestly now.
  6. As above. Rust and Not running. I would not have been offended by that offer. It's an offer. 30+ year old cars, and yours would come with rust. Offer was reasonable.
  7. Hey Scottrae3, If you don't need it for awhile, have the time and money, it sounds like a good time. If this is a working mans car, (point A to b, screwing with that may not be the best idea. These cars are incredibly reliable once you figure them out and cheap transportation, why screw with that? A bit slow off the starting line, but that isn't a terrible thing. If you have the option to make this a fun rig.. , EJ implant, DO IT! You have some great back roads over there! Search for a wrecked subie, talk to the wrecking yards, some will deliver a whole car, let you salvage what you want and come back and pick the carcass up. I found a farmer with a rolled 93 subie in Burbank County and took most everything from that for a reasonable price and kept watching the local Craigs list for tranny's or other engines. Sad to say, but this is life, I got about half-way into my swap into my 82 wagon, and had to bail which didn't hurt me one way or another. Sold everything except radiator. If you can bail out of the project and it doesn't hurt you than that is easier then losing your work car, is all that I am saying. It is unlikely you will re-coup the money put into a project like this but the skills learned and challenge can out way the financial end. My cautionary stance is that I have seen several kids here in the Tri-Cities try and do a swap thinking it is a no brainer project, get in too deep financially, and now with a garage full of parts, and no way to get to work, have to dump the project. They gained nothing but a cluster of loss's, first is financially as they now have a garage full of parts and not a running Subie. Second, no transportation to get to and from work and third was the mental stress (Loser) in what could have been a positive experience. Having everything purchased, standing by, and extra cash available before diving in is the smart way. If you have the resources of tools, cash and equipment, already available, then that works too! As our government has shown us, given enough cash and resources, they can get a brick to fly. So it all depends upon your needs, wants and resources. Keep us updated with pics if you decide to do it. There are a lot of older posts on this subject and people on here who will do what they can for you. Good luck! Oh, I was eyeing that 84 wagon, is that the Blue? I-think, on Craigslist? Looked good from what I saw.
  8. Great find! Just in case you hadn't figured out what the straps are for behind the seats, and yes, this is kind of a no-Duh they are to secure the roof glass after you take them out. Keep them baby's protected. Keep the seals around the glass treated so they don't bake hard and leak water. That Brat will turn some heads cruzing with your hands in the air! I have an 84, exact same color, (no decal). I have been pulling into rest areas with my Brat and I heard someone say, "O.M.G., it's a Brat!" another time a young girl asked, "what is it? It's so cute!" Pop them T-top open and it turns heads. Enjoy... you have a nice find. Talk to Jerry, Bratsrus1 about his 5-spd tranny kit, he is just North of you, you can put a 5-sp in and it makes a great highway rig. Where ever this Aug. Subaru show will be, bring it to the show.
  9. I loved my 88, I had the thumb push, 4-hi, Best, funnest car I ever had, cheap too once I got it running
  10. Evident with the shiny phillips head above the switch that others have been in there. Aftermarket switch of course. Possibly dab screw with black flat paint on the end of a Q-tip, or get original screw next trip to wrecking yard. Nice looking color on trim... sorry, off topic but love that dark blue. (reminds me of my Hatch) Checked you brat picture out. Very nice... take care of that one.
  11. Congrats on your 88, and welcome Idglsub_88, (I loved my 88) Depends on what you want to do. Cash flow, time etc... I say get your money out of it first by just doing a gasket and put some miles on it to bond with it. go from there. Don't know your experience, but I have seen a number of kids dive in to far, to fast and turn it into a pile of metal. my .02.
  12. Incorporated my Brat into my sisters Halloween display so I figured I would start there and drop that in. My two buddies played dueling banjo's (of course) and once it got dark added to the event. Happy New Year to all and enjoy the drive in 2014. Also remembering those on this site that had a rough road in 2013, pray your troubles be lightened into this new year. ..........................................
  13. Sounds like it needs some T.L.C. and bonding time with tools and parts... These cars are easy to work on (kind of) and very forgiving.... fix it?
  14. Welcome Joking41, I see the picture was taken in the land of my birth place and you drive a Brat, two +'s. Big part of this site is the "search" box on the task bar. Lots of the questions have all ready been asked and it makes it easier for others to reply when you have done your homework. If you have time and money, one modification that I would recommend is replacing the 4-speed with a 5-speed tranny. It's not a have too, but it gives the Brat better performance out on those long stretches of highway. So if the budget is tight, possibly another day, if you have money to pour, than highly recommended. Nice looking Brat and can only imagine it is rust free.
  15. Since I missed WCSS I was thinking of doing this outing and head out very early Sat., till I read the weather reports on post above, it is just going to be flat ugly, which normally doesn't bother me but with the travel distance in such weather, I will have to submit to a local activity this weekend. October Fest in Leavenworth with Subaru's as seen in above post, good idea. Pick a camp ground up Icicle Road, they will probably all be empty. That is very doable next month. Look for a calm weekend and just post it... if they show they show.
  16. Sounds like a stuck Thermostat. all the experienced hands in here say to assure to use Subaru make thermostat, it give better flow etc.. also, It has been years since I have changed one out but some car makers of these, Subaru? come with a little hole and if I recall should be placed at the top when installed. Some have a little check plug type thing but those would go to the top to allow movement of air to prevent what ever.. take a look at that perchance... I know a mechanic that also drills a small hole just to assure the flow of air/water to better balance the system.
  17. Only way to learn is to dive in. Every little hick-up is a chance to learn. There is a learning curve with everything. Look for others in your area to work with and dive in, they aren't that hard to learn to work on when you have a great site like this. Plan on any task to take longer than what you expect (twice as long) but you will get there. Nice 88...
  18. I look forward to WCSS, it is a great get-away. Sorry though, I won't be able to make it this year.
  19. I believe Gloyal had it right at the very beginning. What you are describing is that your front Hubs have been stripped of their internal splines and the front axle can't engage the splines on the inside of your hubs...they have been stripped away. You will need two new hubs.... start there. This isn't a big mechanical issue, easily replaced parts. Your axles splines should be fine... clean everything up good, I like to put a little grease on the splines when I slide it together and install the cone, flat, axle nut, torque and install cotter pin. count your splines as Turbo and years make a spline difference... go find similar rig at pull-n-save and get two hubs and replace. ............................ as for the other issues... The tranny may be having some shifting issues, not sure about your lights coming on etc.., ... but cant tell till you get the hubs replaced. Look at your motor mounts and tranny mounts.. may be missing a bolt or something... but start with two hubs get it running and that will help you on the next issues. a knock at left turn usually means early warning of axle, not bearing issues, bearing issues usually start out as noise and then a grinding and constant klunking at the end of it's life. so could just be axle but not an issue cause it will still take you a lot further, use it up. When you get it running, you need to head down to WCSS-15 in early Sept. for the weekend. Always a good time and your not that far away from it this year.
  20. The electrical connector is a bit odd?... while the other connectors on the car are the pushie-innie to release, then pull connectors apart type, the electrical connector to the fuel pump is the Pry-up-the-tab and tug style. (this is from memory and fading fast...) ... change the fuel filter while there, golf tee goes in hose to plug fuel line so it doesn't leak while your making the swap. I take a squirty bottle with degreaser and tooth brush and clean it all up as usually caked with mud etc... change filter, replace any fuel hose that looks ugly and off you go. Oh, fuel pumps. Most auto parts just have the "generic" -one fits all but looks nothing like original- where you have to cut the electrical ends, modify... blahh, blahh...,, once in awhile you can find an exact match at your auto parts dealer, or go to Rock-auto and order from there, they have pics of the exact replacement and you can say... hey... I want that one... my .02
  21. It appears some one or something stole you axle nuts, spring washer and cone washer thingy...which you absolutely need prior to moving car. Washer Spring, Axle (locking washer) Subaru part # 623204080 (note slight curve in washer, install correctly) Center Piece, Axle (cone washer) Subaru part #623024020 Cotter Pin, Axle Subaru part # 051050500 Axle Castle Nut... They do make the parts in aftermarket so you might find them at your auto parts store. You can get the washer, cone and castle nut from wrecking yard but it's good to replace with new every so many years/uses, I like good solid subie cotter pins.. they are toughest ones made and fit tight. cheapy cotter pins are easy to cut/remove and parts can go missing....
  22. As seen from 1984 owners manual: Page 85 INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVE CLEARANCES (Except hydraulic valve lifter equipped engines) The valve clearance should always be kept at the proper dimension. If the valve clearance is less than specified, the engine output will be reduced and air pollutant emissions in the exhaust gases will be increased. If necessary, adjust the intake and exhaust valve clearances as follows. (Adjust the intake and exhaust valve clearances when engine is cold. ) Intake valve: 0.009-0.011 inch Exhaust valve: 0.013-0.015 inch 1. Bring the piston of the cylinder to be checked to the top dead center at compression stroke. 2. Insert a thickness gauge between the valve sttem and rocker arm to measure the valve clearance. 3. Inspect each valve clearances on both sides according to the following sequence: cylinder number, #1, #3, #2, #4 To adjust the clearance, use Valve Clearance Adjuster (#.. don't need) Loosen the locknuts and turn the adjusting screw to obtain the specified valve clearance. 5. Tighten the lock nuts. 10-13 ft-lb 6. Adjust each vlave clearance accoring to the following sequence. #1, #3, #2, #4 7. Recheck the valve clearances on both sides after rotating the crank shaft several times. also: install new valve cover gaskets, install rocker cover and torque 2.2-2.9 ft-lb (takes very little torque on those little bolts. ................... Suggestions from other posts: Order cork gaskets, cover in Grey automotive silicone rubber, hang on wire, allow to dry overnight. Disconnect battery. Remove spark plugs. Assure your on compression stroke by removing distributor cap, make a mark where #1,3,2,4, would fire at and roll engine to #1 position. You can put a dowel rod, or pencil and use that as a dept gauge as you roll it to the TDC, top dead center, you can usually feel when your there or just rolling off the top of cam. Adjust your Intake gap with feeler gauge. Put socket on front crank nut and roll motor to next cylinder etc.. after that then do the exhaust stroke. Then pull the engine around a couple times and double check those gaps. Put it back together... they do make the special little Subaru tool, but find that crows foot, socket can get you there too. Be aware that about midway in 84 they switched to the hydraulic valve lifter. If you have that engine there will be a sticker on the side of the rocker valve cover but sounds like you know what you have there. my .02
  23. Astoria area... fun town, area. At Gearhart, OR, west of the Golf course, there is a beach access where you can drive on beach. In Astoria, there is the Coast Guard/Maritime sea Museum, the wharf's where Sea Lions roost, the Goonies house up on the hill and then the Astoria Column that has stairs on the inside to the top. Do a search on each of these. If you want a most excellent place to stay in Astoria (pricy) it is the Cannery Pier-Inn, in Astoria. Very nice.... If you have time there is the Fort Stevens park and Lewis and Clark State park. Astoria Bridge, hwy 101... gulp... way up high when it goes over the Columbia River. Heading to Spokane there is the Grandcoulee Dam if you have time. Its far enough out of the path that you almost need to stay the night if you watch the Laser light show at dark:30 that is shown on the side of the Dam. Yellowstone. "Norris Geyser Jct Campground" has always been one of my Favorites to camp at. It's best to hit Yellowstone not too late in the afternoon if your camping there on the weekend as it can fill up. There is the Norris Geyser basin that is excellent for seeing mud pots, boiling hot water and stinking water that is just 3 miles from the camp ground. And yes you should see Old Faithful and the Old Faithful Lodge which is located at the South end of Yellowstone park. Up north (I believe you might be coming in this way) is neat in regards to seeing rocks, views, wild flowers etc and if you go out North end/East direction I hear that is nice although I have never been east out of the park. Take your time in Yellowstone.. the traffic can be stop and go if there are animals on the side.... watch Buffalo, can be grumpy, keep kids close if you go for a hike and dogs on leash. One of my favorite hikes is the, Artists Paint Pots, http://www.nps.gov/yell/photosmultimedia/0009artistpaintpots-iy.htm It is between Norris Geyser Basin I believe.... on way to Canyon Village I think??? check it out, It takes about an hour, easy cool hike, not far off road but enough that most don't go so that is nice...
  24. cheap o's... 4 years mild use, 2 -3 years daily driver.... 1-2 year daily driver, teenage driver...
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