Indrid cold

I sent E-mail to Gabriel Tech support and got the answer I needed. Very prompt reply. I bought a set of Gabriel gas ryder struts (Model:G55726) and upper strut mounts for my 84 Subaru Brat. They were at a good price as the parts store was going away. I am replacing front strut...(first time) and reading directions as I go.... Mfg. directions (and chiltons)seem to show a general strut or an older model and not very clear as to this particular (newer mfg) strut and not sure of installation and if parts are all there....but seem to be, just less then shown on generic sketches. Drawings supplied from Gabriel do not reflect new parts in the supplied drawings. Remove and discard oil seal and thrust washer. Install Plastic Bearing #NA3501 flat side up under Strut mount. The plastic thrust washer replaces the Oil seal and Steel Thrust washer. Aslo, dirctions say to apply grease to oil seal and sliding surface, since that seems to now be plastic would that be adviseable or would a graphite powder or nothing be best? No need to apply grease.

First time for me to do suspension/steering stuff, got as far as Ball joint, hmmmm... didn't budge so I noobied it... , I know you would get a kick out of this as it seems like a bit of over kill... but hey.. it worked. I got about 2 ft of chain and slid center link on Ball joint stud followed by washer and nut. Got 20ft of 2" gal pipe and supported from ball joint as close as I could below ball joint useing a 1/2" bolt to form a hanger for the pipe. About 3 ft from end I blocked with wood between frame jacking point on car and pipe.. Pounded in a wedge at ball joint that is used on wood hammer head replacement (see in joint) and squirted night before with panther piss/penetrating spray. Placed jack on solid wood off rollers and lifted on strut about 3" to take stress off top strut mount. I got wife at far end of pipe and she pushed down on pipe with foot till it bowed too the concrete. I took hammer and beat pipe down next to chain...(nothing)...:-\ ..didn't budge so I got a BFH and a killer swing... pop....

At this point it could be many things, do the usual check, spark, fuel, timing belts. Pull your distributor cover and see if rotor turns when engine cranked. Also there are two rubber plugs on the front of the timing covers... although I have never tried to use these... they are there... I think.. and can feel if the left timing belt is still tight... the right turns the cam, which intern rotates the distributor.

Don't mind those people... it's the ones with the Blue lights on top that really bother us.... Welcome Bserk, (Doug) , hmmm... you own a 96... wow.. sooo new. some day... some day...

excellent photo's of your snow experience... wow.... so much fun...

possibly all those in the know are on vacation?... wish I could help but no idea.... and hoping this post would take it back too the top and someone may see it.... anyone... anyone....

earlier post said to spray area with a powder deoderant after engine is clean and dry and it will collect where the oil leaks from forming a trail... I am about to do what you just did so no first hand experience yet as I am still pouring a quart of oil in and leaving a trail down the road:grin:

weak radiator cap? system can't build pressure therefore it will go too a higher temperature.... check seating surface too of the radiator cap, had goop under the reubber of the radiator cap so it wouldn't seal...

I took a 2x4 about 5" long. I took a skill saw and cut a gash across the wood about 1/2" wide x 1" deep and taped that on top of my floor jack, I can then jack up at the jack points on the side of the car as the dangly seam slides in the gap in the wood and the stress is distributed too the wood/jack.

145 sounds right ... I used to use the torque wrench (cheap one with the bar) which was at end of scale for 145 lbs so figure it was close, then I read other posts said they didn't use torque wrench but used 3 ft long cheaters, jumped up and down on the wrench, stamp with foot etc... so if they can do that and not have problems I stopped freaking out about my torque as I got my elbow calibrated to what FEELS right, got close with the 145 and found the next hole on the tighter side... so far so good, also after a long drive I will feel the hub and compare with the others to assure not heating up.... which could be castle nut too loose, too tight or early sign of bearing failure.

wow,... Nice shape.... color YOU CAN'T HIDE THAT RIG IN THE BRUSH!

Limberger cheese? You know, take some of that cheese, tie it up in a nylon stocking and tie it infront of the heater duct in your buddies car. Other wise... no idea... check for somthing dead under your seat like a mouse.. them things can really put out the stink when they are curing to jerky.

Interesting... .as I have the same exact rig & close to same miles, ... I will have to dive under and give things a shake. I'm still learning on these things so no idea and too dark and cold to go out and look now yea.. a photo would be nice of what failed...

I asked the same question and loved the reply I got: Remember, this car is 26 years old... 26 yrs. They should be paying us to take it away... even if it is driveable. So my target rate is no more then $100 with a basic problem, axel, bearing, brake.. etc... So, shoot for $300, ... $400 ish...running... sure, less would be better but the owner may be proud of what he has and won't go less... so... it depends on how bad you wan't it, how often a car like that comes around and how handy you are with the tools cause at 26 yrs... it will be needing some loving time. A running subaru is like 600 here and beat too near death... once in awhile a deal comes up and gone in a flash..... so 400-500 would be a deal but not braging rights. good luck good luck...

Noooooooooooooooooo......... the in-humanity of it all... glad too hear your safe. 88, wagon... that's what I have, sorry for your loss. there is a 91? wagon for sale in the Tri-cities (Kennewick WA) , Call (509)948-6937, I think his name is Dave.... can't remember. asking $800., probably let it go for $600. ????? I went and looked at the wagon, a touch rough on the exterior and some rust issues and misc, but he was a subaru mech, gone ford, and has done some solid work too this car (EA-82, 5-speed with HI-Low 4x4, manual tranny)... nothing shinny about rig, just solid set up... I know it is a bit far from Seattle but this should be dependable rig... if not sold. Sorry no power windows in this one I think, just older, reliable rig I believe... will need the rust addressed and repaint if taken too a wetter area like Seattle.

They grow up so quickly don't they. :-p

Keep us posted on this. I have been chasing a similar problem with my 88, also woundering if possibly a compression check would be in order... possibly a leaking head valve or something? I don't know just a noob thought...

Welcome to the site since this is your 3rd post... yea.. sounds like bearing and if you do a search in the "Search" box, you should find ton's of info. If you read a chiltons they say you need to take to shop and have it pressed off etc... nah.. just read the past posts and it will tell you how. If you havn't done it before... good time to learn and it isn't that diffecult. Plan on your first set taking a long time if your new... the next set you will be a pro... do the search and then bond with your Subee...

I took about a 3/4" thick, 12" wide & 20" inch tall, plywood/particle board, drilled 4 holes (on 1/3rd end of board) for the tire studs and one in center big enough to allow socket onto middle nut, with wheel off I can slide this onto the studs so the board is just off the ground, put socken on axe nut and turn the nut and the board corner will jam on the ground preventing the axel from turning. I can loosen/tighten axel nuts in this manner without having the tire on the car etc.. I adjust elevation of car and distance of board too ground by using jack and stand on end of wrench... also when I am at the Subaru dealer I buy half dozen axel cotter pins and leave some in the glove box just too have them available.

was the throttle plate propped open? looking at the chiltons, I don't find a Throttle plate on my SPFI (single point fuel injection)... so no I guess I didn't prop it open if I don't know what it is.... I think that is Carberator related not Fuel injection right?

Workhorse is what they are... Like my sticker says on the back of my rack, "Who needs a Hemi"

It is my daily driver... well kind of... more like my "Weekend Warrior Wagon!" just not much grrrrrrr to it not being lifted and all... but coming.. anyway... I am getting close to pulling the motor for a re-seal, so checking everything over. If compression is close enough and not to much power loss & or performance, I don't want to mess with the heads... I guess... just want to pull, re-seal, do clutch and back in... and run till she drops.... and stronger engine another day perhaps... I didn't put oil in the piston because of that same reason, seems valves fail long before the cylenders think about it... and if the rings are bad... will toss the motor anyway and get a stronger one... another day...

Went into local supply shop, asked for plugs for my 88, dl, wagon, EA-82, non-turbo, clerk said out of one kind, (NGK-6261) but have the other which will work... I took out: Autolite 63, covered in white carbon Store was out of: NGK 6261 :-\ Clerk said these will work: NGK 7133 (BPR6ES-11) They were like $2. a piece and needed them so put them in. Whats the dif, and story with these plugs? Reply: #1, Excellent info Northwet, I will print and paste that inside the Chiltons, I did have too gap. Set at .40, Sube running better and now I know. am curious about the white carbon... kind of thick and plugs arn't that old... well... since spring anyway or was that last fall...?